The Satori MTA- a two way, but with a checkered past and lots of different DNA

[JonMarsh]

Anyone that doesn't believe in evolution has never seen me working on a speaker project...


Today's report on that involves the frustration that Steve and I have when we find that the data sheets for speaker drivers don't accurately report dimensions and leave some out completely, and that I figure that out for one project (Saint-Saëns Planar) and forget some of the details and urgency in another- this one specifically.

The driver frame I'm blaming is one that neither Steve nor I are especially fond of, the RSS210 series, whether speaker or driver, it's just that the parts themselves work so nicely once you get them sorted out...

So I went to mark the PR threaded insert holes this weekend, and ended up concluding the baffles need a little more "meat" around the inserts... must push the inner pass through hole to the max, snug as a bug in a rug, as some might say...

After finding my thinking cap underneath the coffee maker, what I decided might work was to drop the base for the PR rebate even further, and to see about fabricating a new "mounting collar" so to speak- and the gods must be looking out for me, because the Boise Woodcraft had two pieces of 30" by 30" by 1/2" BB ply, yes, the last left overs from before the Russian invasion of Ukraine. (have Ukraine friends locally, so that is a touchy subject!)

Of course, one mandatory item for this plan to work was having a VERY accurate number for the actual frame inner pass through diameter, not just some "sort a close" number from the data sheet. This of course required a fixture of sorts and the use of two of the RSS210PR elements.



Having a cool looking black ruler is optional...

This showed that something like 7.25" should be achievable, and no jiggle room allowed.

It was short work to cut the BB ply into 15" square pieces, and setup my favorite Porter Cable circle cutting router. Note again, the pivot pin in the fixture has been replaced with a solid pin with a very slight taper.






In this case we have to setup to make two cuts, one sized for the outer dimension of the rebate (8-1/2" diameter) and the other for the inner dimension that the driver passes through. My standard solid 1/2" solid carbide bit was used.







The router tracks were cut 1/4" deep, an easy cut for the follow up with Bosch jig saw.
















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[Steve Manning]

Nice idea on the PR measurement especially if you don't have a 12" set of calipers

[JonMarsh]

which I definitely don't!

[JonMarsh]

After drilling holes on the WEN drill press, and cutting through the thin part to free a section to test on two of the boards, the next step is the bench router and cleaning things up to a flush side wall.




One piece trimmed to test the outer dimension, the other for the inner pass through dimension.


Dropping the outer fitment piecer into one of the PR holes, I have to conclude someone must be looking over my shoulder, because it was a snug clean fit. Just a slight push to get it seated at the extended flange mount routed a bit lower.



The other test piece was setup for the inner route dimension:




No slop or play in action- just a snug fit without a trace of jiggle.



This is not part of the normal construction process, if you follow the final print PDF's I'll release when everything is fully tested and checked.


This is just the sort of thing that happens now and then if you let the wires and sparks guy loose in the woodshop without adult supervision- Steve has been very busy with personal projects!

[JonMarsh]

Next steps of the rework are cleaning up the routed edges inside and outside the replacement rebate flange bases...




All six routed follower edge routed, and sanded inside and outside with Diablo blocks...




And here, in "Test Article 1" epoxy glued into the PR locations with clamping for good epoxy spread and adhesion.




Next step will be drilling and installing the M4 threaded inserts-

Or as Bullwinkle J. Moose would say,

[JonMarsh]

OK, yesterday was medical day, not sick day- annual "Wellness Exam", where I get to go in and chat either to Primary care doc or a PA-C sub about how I'm doing so well, and why- and gave the new PA-C (a nice guy, didn't deserve to have to put up with me) a binder with 15 tabbed sections explaining my approach to orthomolecular nutrition and medicine, and why it's ludicrous that the human RDA for Vitamin C (which is based on a standardized 175 lb body mass) is less than what a decent sized house cat makes in it's liver every day. Really...

But it's a more humorous way to introduce ideas that are controversial to some, then other avenues I could explore... For that I'd invite Evil Twin to the meeting. But you have to arrange ahead of time for a chosen chaperone. Really...

But, today, back to working on more exciting things, though truthfully, maybe not ALL that much more exciting than watching paint dry. Just fiddly, and have to be done right.

With the new PR flange platforms epoxied in place, time to drill the holes for the Rampa M4 rebates...

First step is to place a driver in the opening, and align the mounting holes, then I use a spring loaded center punch to create a marker indent for the Diablo Drill Red Helix bits, which have a raised tip that will slide into that center punch indent and locate the drill bit precisely.

Then we're ready to drill with the Wood River drill guide to keep things at the right angle and stable during drilling.




With their tri-threaded construction, the Rampa inserts are very easy to guide in at a 90 degree angle to the work plane and cinch down with my DeWalt metric hex tool.



Next up today is drilling out the extra passive radiator weight washers slightly, so that they will fit over the M4 GAIA hardware for the rear footers, and provide a slight adjustment of the forward angle as well as distribute any torque forces over a larger area of the cabinet footer plate, as the rear part of the cabinet carries more of the weight.

[JonMarsh]

OoooKaaay, Folks!

Now we're leading up to a really exciting part!!

Getting ready to watch Watco oil dry! Yes, very similar to watching paint dry, but more transparent...

Here we are before starting the final smoothing sand-


That's going to be done with two different grits of GRANAT, the FESTool abrasive disks, 5" size for my 5" Pro Lite sander... 220 grit and 320 grit.






The 220 knocks down any roughness from the handling of the previous steps, and the 320 delivers a near glass smooth finish - feels more like a good 400 grit to me, frankly.



Baby smooth everywhere.

Here is where I made a snap change of plans this afternoon- for the sake of expediency. I had been planning to setup a stepped box setup with my rotary axis platform on top to enable spinning the cabinet around, but I took a look at the height of the saw table again, and recalled that I had a nice fresh shipping carton that I didn't need to use for the last send off to Steve. So I got the carton out and tried putting the enclosure on it, and tested ease of movement and work- and it was just fine, and I'm tall enough to handle doing the wipe down on the top of the cabinet.


So that got setup and checked out, and I did one more wipe down with the Scott SHOP towels, they're very good at getting the really fine wood dust powder, as long as you take your time and are thorough.

And, yeah, that base is nice and flat, rock solid on the table saw, with or without the cardboard platform.

[JonMarsh]

First coat applied, it's more like a coat and a half, as I go around twice and apply more where ever it looks like it really soaked in right away.

I swear it looks better in real life than in this pic, but it's heading in the direction I want.





You know, "Idaho Rustic".

😉

[JonMarsh]

As if there was any bamboo or Maple growing anywhere in Idaho!

[JonMarsh]

Two hours drying while I'm doing yard work- it feels and looks great to me now...




Maybe some day I'm going to get the hang of this...

[Steve Manning]

Check your email for an alternate solution to your table saw for finishing ......

[JonMarsh]

Now, this is interesting, and highlights the problem I have with my inbox being so flooded with election related mails! I found the email you're referring to, but never saw it when you sent it!

So, for the benefit of our viewers, he's a picture of the basic model without the extra clamps:




That's a nice looking unit, and the "calibrated" legs are a cool looking idea, could be very useful to make it easier to elevate those SS Planar LF cabinets.

THIS is what I bought around 10 years ago, near as I can tell, but I had to use my Kagi search engine to find it on Amazon, as they had two pages of Chinese made units (that I'm sure are more profitable to sell; one that looks VERY similar to the DeWalt.






And the one similar to my DeWalt:





Now, my DeWalt work table sits in the bedroom that is currently dedicated to vintage loudspeaker driver storage, electronic test gear, crossover and wiring assembly, and a stacked HiFi rack with most of my "good stuff" electronics, as later when this project and the Saint-Saëns planar are finished, it will because a mini music room and Home Theater room, with my Epson 4K HDR projector and the nice screen I have in storage for it. And my guitar amplifiers (Marshal Vintage modern and some other gear) plus maybe some guitars hung on the wall for fun at the back. Right now, that table is stacked up with bins with parts for the Saint-Saëns and the Speakon cable sets and other fun secret stuff...

Sigh... I feel like I'm at least two years behind my schedule, but various wife's family drama's and medical problems with with my wife and doing weird stuff like spending 6 weeks building a 450 lb. 100mph rated gazebo for her, after the one from Home Depot was blown down in 70 mph winds in a dry thunderstorm on 2024 Labor Day, (that Chinese Hoax has some pretty strong kick in it- record breaking weather that year and this where I live) and after 6 weeks further researching cancer nutritional experiments done by medical experts and testing them on myself for toxicity issues for her older daughter's recurrent metastatic hormone positive breast cancer, all eat into available time for personal projects. (the nutritional stuff fixed her daughters 4 year ongoing perimenopausal symptoms in just two days, and led me to update my own regimen, but from the minimal information that was shared with me, it seems she didn't have the self discipline to continue it.)

So, yeah, needs must, didn't feel like unloading the stuff on the work room work bench, though I briefly pondered it. The other problem is that the one garage section that is designated for wood working is pretty full with the gear and materials I have in there. Should have spec'd an RV garage when I had the house built, but I doubt I could have afforded it!

[JonMarsh]

But, ya know, I just may pop for one of those that Steve suggested; I've still got a bunch of cabinet finishing and refinishing stuff to do on the SS Planar project! and lowering the height could be perfect for that! Besides, I've always wanted a "My Little Pony" of my own!

[JonMarsh]

Ordered. I'll test it first on Satori MTA Test article 2, once I get it up to this stage. But it should work well for the SS-Planar stuff also.

[JonMarsh]

So now, do I need to compose a song to go along with it? Something like, "I'm a little Pony, cute and stout! Gonna do my finishing, no need to pout!"

Don't forget, I'm just the wires and sparks guy...

[JonMarsh]

Today's major task besides visiting a medical lab and watching the Watco Golden Oak oil dry and harden for 72 hours before applying wipe on poly was drilling out the extra PR weight washers to use for tilt adjustment.

I didn't mention previously, but among other reasons for using M8 inserts in the cabinet base for the GAIA feet mounting is that the native thread for the GAIA feet is M8, so there's a little more flexibility in handling the tradeoffs compared to the dual thread posts.


For this task I used my smaller WEN drill press, a WEN 4208 5 speed model from the depths of antiquity, you know, the one you keep tucked away in the back left corner of your workshop just for doing hardware pieces...

For this kind of work, Amazon has a nice hold down clamp set, four clamps, well made, for just a smidge over $10. Now, if Ace Hardware or Home Depot had anything similar, much less at near the same price, I'd be singing the praises of them, but they don't, not that I could find locally.





So, here we are, set up and ready to roll. Now, Ace Hardware does get a demerit because once again they were out of drilling lubricant. But 3 in 1 oil, Silcone version, took care of that issue nicely.





And now, the deed is done- four times over.




Here is one of the four finished PR "washers" for the rear mounting feet:

(looks just as good to me as if it were "factory" that size)



And here, a fitment check with one of the GAIA feet. And yes, that's a 5/16" through hole now.

[JonMarsh]

Arrived a day later than promised, and late in the day- time for trick or treaters!

But looking forward to tomorrow! Downloaded full sized manual.

[JonMarsh]

OK, yesterday was a distraction, today is ignoring the time change and gettin' stuff done!

This meant unpacking the new work table, downloading a full size copy of the instructions (I personally am not happy with the 1/4 size pamphlets usually included with new gear- always go to their website and get and print the real thing.

If you want to take a look at the PONY work table, see if it may suit you, here's a copy of the PDF you can download, just the English language part.


Here's a picture where I opened it up and put tab A into slot B, to get ready for use...



And here, in the garage workshop, after moving some stuff around, this is a much better working height for many operations.



Ordered some small packing blankets for protecting the finish...


And pondering the very reasonable cost, versus construction quality, ordered another one so I can work in "stereo"!

[Steve Manning]

You can also use them in saw horse mode with a substantial weight capacity.

[JonMarsh]

Both weight and size! But that's an interesting question- what would I do that needs that? Well, I will have two by Nov. 6, so if it comes up, well, I'll be ready. But even the Saint-Saëns Planar should top 200 lb with all three cabinet!

[JonMarsh]

Sunshine outside and slightly warmer temperatures...

Time to give Test Article 2 some loving.

First, route the PR rebate steps down to 1", for installing the new rebate disk fixtures... and doing a fitment check.




It's looking good, and it's as warm as it's going to get today... let's epoxy some rebate disks in, with Bob Smith's finest...




Now, the finish on TA-1 is looking pretty nice, but for durability I'd still like to have the wipe on poly. But that might have to wait until spring...

[JonMarsh]

How appropriate- Hump Day, and it's going to be dedicated to a list of tasks to get Test Article 2 caught up with TA-1!

Including installing M4 inserts for mounting the PR's, using the base template to locate and punch for the insert holes for M6 in the base, and installing inserts, and complete the through holes for the binding posts. Oh, and start epoxying in the additional four side wall reinforcement blocks, and just MAYBE, this might be a good day to look at the SoundSkin panels and how I'm going to install those!




Double checking the flatness of the base again might not be a bad idea either- there's been a lot going on outside this project, best to not just rely on recollection...

[JonMarsh]

Just call me the GE boy this afternoon... progress is our most important product!

😅

Now, I'm going to repeat myself here a bit, because it's an important message for getting accurate work the easy way- unless you're equipped like Steve, with a fast accurate CNC... (me no gots...)

I always center punch the holes for threaded inserts and pretty much anything else that has to be drilled, and then use Red Helix metal cutting drill bits because of their raised quad edge drill tip makes it so, SO easy to get an accurate positioning of the drill bit for the proposed hole...




And here's a zoom in picture in situ... showing the tip on the bit.



Verstehst du?

Using the Drill guide to assure stability and angle...




Then installing the tri-tip Rampa threaded inserts I could do in my sleep, they're so easy to align...




Then the 9-1/2" x 2-1/2" side panel braces were glued in just above the side to side cross braces, one at each.

This will be clearer in the final drawings.

[JonMarsh]

This was about bringing Test Article 2 closer to the assembly status of the first cabinet. Heck, got up to 60F for a while, even had the 3rd garage door open!. Next up on it will be the lower cabinet work necessary to get it ready for mounting the cabinet footer assembly. Cables are being prepared for installation.

[JonMarsh]

One of the update tasks for Test Article 2 was installing the Rampa M6 and M8 inserts into the cabinet base. I decided to check a possible tweak that might be desirable if using softer woods than I did- a slight reduction in the hole diameter for the M6, from 7/16" to 13/32". What the heck, another Red Helix bit is just $25 or so, isn't that about what a Big Mac with fries costs these days?

Well, it took a little bit more "oomph" screwing them in with my DeWalt multi-hex wrench, but nothing a geezer like me had any trouble with (75 yo) so all you young lads should have no problem!




The second "PONY" came in late yesterday, after 6 instead of the promised 1:45PM, so I had to hustle this AM to get it setup and take care of the TA=2 finish sanding, to get ready for Watco oil... after setting up the new "PONY"!


Geez, this has been more like a Monday than a Saturday!


So, ready to start with the Watco...





And here, in progress, first coat complete.




Temps are supposed to hit 64-65 F today, so I'll be opening up the garage door soon to help the drying...

[Steve Manning]

With two Ponies is that enough to be considered a "herd"?

[JonMarsh]

well, I gots a small stable here, though bigger than I've ever had before, so I think you've "herd" the last of any PONY purchases!