Thanks for the link, I think I meant veneer ply. I have a 4-day old so the brain isn't functioning all the way with the lack of sleep. From everything i have read people seem to prefer BB Ply over MDF for good reasons. If I'm going to build the enclosure I will likely build out of ply. Perhaps I'll do 1/2" ply and 1/4" HDF so I have a smooth surface to use for veneer.
Time for some Ansonica - a new design for Jagman's theater
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I veneered the sides of my cabs a few pages back, but lots of people veneer plywood cabinets.
I've got a toddler and two month old so good luck to you on finding time for your project- Bottom
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Apparently I lost my mind and missed that. I really like the shape of your front baffle. I also noticed you are using pretty much the same rigid table saw I have. How did you cut the extra angles on the baffle if you don't mind me asking?- Bottom
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To make the cuts, I used a skill saw and cleaned it up with a hand plane. You also need to consider how I constructed my baffle to maintain the 1.5" thickness even with the facet cuts. It would have otherwise been very close to cutting through the box.- Bottom
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To say I have fallen in love with these speakers is an understatement. Thank you for designing them and making them available to us. Let's hope I can do a sufficient job on the build.- Bottom
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I'm fixing to start a build of these and I haven't decided on the finish. I'm considering veneering these and I'm not sure how I would veneer the change in the chamfer. Is there a way to simplify this but keep the slot port? I assume make the slot port but narrow it would do the job but I'm not sure what other baffle impacts you account for in your design and I don't want to screw it up.
To say I have fallen in love with these speakers is an understatement. Thank you for designing them and making them available to us. Let's hope I can do a sufficient job on the build.
You can really see the chamfer transition in the first photo on post#189 (also in the photo above the one you quoted. Per his post above, there's no need to go to the bottom even. IMO, the way CJD constructed it is the easier way to do it if you're going full length. Narrowing the port would be doable, but it would affect the internal volume of the cabinet as the port length would change and you would need to recalculate box dimensions. I think the main downside would be maintaining the consistency of the translaminations and figuring out a way to assemble while maintaining a result of similar in appearance to CJD's could be a challenge - but not insurmountable. (says the guy that reconfigured the box to be trapezoid shape instead of parallelogram..)
Another way to accomplish the chamfer with veneer could be to construct the sides of the baffle out of solid wood of the same/similar species as you are planning to veneer with. You could then veneer up to or over the wood and cut your chamfers into the solid wood. There's a fellow over on the PE forums that frequently does this for his round overs but there's no reason you couldn't also apply the same technique to a chamfer. See one example of his work See one example of his work here. There appear to be several builds now. It seems most have done some variations to the original design (at least all the photos I've seen), I suppose it's inevitable when not using CNC box kits.- Bottom
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Quick update on my build. Spare time is nil these days but progress continues (although even more slowly now). Small progress on the crossovers. Every time a look at them it's been so long since last reviewing the schematic I spend about half my time second guessing work already completed on my layouts (I haven't found an actual problem yet).
I've wet sanded the boxes (600x) and rubbed out with 4F pumice and now waxed one of the boxes. It was probably good enough before the wet sanding and I've done prior wood working projects to that level and they all look good. I was a little skeptical after the 600x wet sand but the pumice brought back the shine back and the wax added an appreciable depth to the grain. At the right angles it's a mirror. I could go further and hand rub with rottenstone but I'm more than happy with the result I have now so I'm calling it. I haven't been as good about getting photos lately bit I'll try to remember to take a comparison shot of the finish before waxing the second box.
The grills have been a challenge. I spent the better part of an evening taking measurements, planning pilot holes mounting Jasper jig, taping/clamping the grill blank only to realize my fixed base router couldn't accommodate the 1/4" bit I have and I doubt it would handle cutting the full half inch at once so had to delay until I could get my friend's router. I'm also dealing with other issues related to embedded magnets (in the boxes) and angles on the facets and I'm not a CNC I did get my felt in. F13 from The Felt Store (ordered through Amazon.ca). I way over bought what I needed so should be good to go.
No feet yet.
I'm committed to finishing the build by Christmas - just don't ask me which year It's been good to see other people working on builds- Bottom
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You haven't said so, but if doing a translaminated baffle, I would not attempt to veneer over the face of the baffle. My experience has been that the translaminated baffle moves similar to wood until fully finished. You would be fine to veneer over a plywood face, or even the butt-joint of plywood, but the cross-grain movement on plywood is magnified when you have a couple hundred veneer plys across, it is however unlikely to twist/cup like wood. My baffle changed width appreciably by a couple mm depending on the day/season which became an issue when I went to assemble it. Just know that telegraphing joints through veneer (or paint) is a thing people experience with plywood and MDF.
You can really see the chamfer transition in the first photo on post#189 (also in the photo above the one you quoted. Per his post above, there's no need to go to the bottom even. IMO, the way CJD constructed it is the easier way to do it if you're going full length. Narrowing the port would be doable, but it would affect the internal volume of the cabinet as the port length would change and you would need to recalculate box dimensions. I think the main downside would be maintaining the consistency of the translaminations and figuring out a way to assemble while maintaining a result of similar in appearance to CJD's could be a challenge - but not insurmountable. (says the guy that reconfigured the box to be trapezoid shape instead of parallelogram..)
Another way to accomplish the chamfer with veneer could be to construct the sides of the baffle out of solid wood of the same/similar species as you are planning to veneer with. You could then veneer up to or over the wood and cut your chamfers into the solid wood. There's a fellow over on the PE forums that frequently does this for his round overs but there's no reason you couldn't also apply the same technique to a chamfer. See one example of his work See one example of his work here. There appear to be several builds now. It seems most have done some variations to the original design (at least all the photos I've seen), I suppose it's inevitable when not using CNC box kits.
1) Exact clone of CJD's with the laminated ply.
2) MDF with .5 and 1" MDF for the baffle for a total of 1.5" chamfered. This could be painted piano black and/or veneered
3) Birch ply enclosure with Solid Wood or MDF baffle with a slight redesign so the chamfer is all in the main baffle wood (baffle would need to span entire front). This could be veneered
round or slot port are options possible. If I do slot I need to figure out what to do with the chamfer for veneering.
Anything wrong with these options that you see?
Also your build is looking great!
Also, ordered parts last night. A few cross over parts were on back order. Hopefully will have them soon enough. Need to figure out the enclosure I want to build and go for it.- Bottom
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From 0 DIY speaker builds under my belt to 2 in progress. Ahh....- Bottom
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Thanks! Orange wax from Lee Valley. I figured food safe was about as kid friendly as I could get.
Shop Woodworking Hand & Power Tools Collection on Lee Valley. Browse our selection of Reliable Tools for any Woodworking project.
My wife is already preparing me for the reality that these will be play things to the boys. I expect there will be tears [emoji25] ...from me mostly.
Finishing schedule was epoxy > blonde dewaxed shellac > General Finishes water base poly > Orange wax.- Bottom
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Very nice. Makes me embarrassed of the finish on my speakers.- Bottom
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I was so impressed with your build that I ordered the plans and kit today. I'm going to build my own enclosures. They will be nothing like yours (I just don't have the skill at this point) but I love them!
From 0 DIY speaker builds under my belt to 2 in progress. Ahh....- Bottom
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Thanks! Now I'm figuring out how to put on a finish like yours.... on a budget. I have a small (26 Gallon Compressor with 6.3cfm @40psi) so I was thinking LVLP. Trying to find a reputable dealer for the asturo LVLP guns as they sound like what I need.- Bottom
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You can get started with the Uber-affordable Harbor Freight HVLP gun for $16. Specs say 6 cfm @ 40 psi. I still use it, among others. It often goes on sale for $9.99, but the current $16 price is still very affordable. Take your time adjusting the gun and practicing on some scrap, before using it on your project.
Sorry about the thread hi-jack. To get back on track--the Ansonicas are in the build-queue for me, but I'm not sure when I will get to them.
I'd love to compare the 2.5 way Ansonicas to CJD's 3-way Anarchy design, once he finalizes it.- Bottom
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You can get started with the Uber-affordable Harbor Freight HVLP gun for $16. Specs say 6 cfm @ 40 psi. I still use it, among others. It often goes on sale for $9.99, but the current $16 price is still very affordable. Take your time adjusting the gun and practicing on some scrap, before using it on your project.
Sorry about the thread hi-jack. To get back on track--the Ansonicas are in the build-queue for me, but I'm not sure when I will get to them.
I'd love to compare the 2.5 way Ansonicas to CJD's 3-way Anarchy design, once he finalizes it.- Bottom
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¼" or ½" spiral upcut bit with a circle jig for the through-holes. I have a nice rabbet bit set that I now use for flush-mounting drivers (that lets me through-cut to 1/16" and always have the ability to get a precise fit, even adjust later if I discover I need to...) I have a 1¼" 45° chamfer bit. That's all I used for the Ansonica.
CdiVine Sound - my DIY speaker designs at diVine Audio- Bottom
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Speakers have been started. I'll take a few pics later today. All of the cuts are done except I need to angle the baffle and rear panel. I should hopefully get the baffle routed and all glued up this week and build the crossovers. Decided to go with a painted black finish.- Bottom
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I believe this is the set I have: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BJJY5M/
If the size isn't perfect, a little scotch tape can make a collar just the right size.
I don't think I noticed till today that it says "for use on a router table only" - oops! Though I have a large base on the router when I use these, so not sure if it makes that much difference.diVine Sound - my DIY speaker designs at diVine Audio- Bottom
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A couple of questions I'm hoping you can answer cjd. On the design it references the height of the speakers to center. This should be from base height and not the baffle length correct? i.e. 15.25" from base of speaker is actually 15.75" up the baffle. The tweeter is 30.75" up the baffle and 30.25" from the base of the speaker.
The second question, madisound sent me the wrong drivers for the tweeters. I ordered:
and got:
I assume the major different is a neo mag vs. a regular. Would this be a drop in replacement or do I need to call madisound and get the correct drivers?- Bottom
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A couple of questions I'm hoping you can answer cjd. On the design it references the height of the speakers to center. This should be from base height and not the baffle length correct? i.e. 15.25" from base of speaker is actually 15.75" up the baffle. The tweeter is 30.75" up the baffle and 30.25" from the base of the speaker.
The second question, madisound sent me the wrong drivers for the tweeters. I ordered:
and got:
I assume the major different is a neo mag vs. a regular. Would this be a drop in replacement or do I need to call madisound and get the correct drivers?- Bottom
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A couple of questions I'm hoping you can answer cjd. On the design it references the height of the speakers to center. This should be from base height and not the baffle length correct? i.e. 15.25" from base of speaker is actually 15.75" up the baffle. The tweeter is 30.75" up the baffle and 30.25" from the base of the speaker.diVine Sound - my DIY speaker designs at diVine Audio- Bottom
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Usually I would order direct but I had an amazon gift card that needed spending.- Bottom
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I've got most of the parts cut and have started routing the baffles. I was planning to use a 3 inch port by 18" per the earlier posts on port size. However, this got me to thinking that I'm loosing volume in the to the port. Is there adjustments I would need to make? Do I need reduce to a 2.5" port or increase the volume of the box? Wish I would have thought of this before I cut the baffle, doh!- Bottom
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Where are you putting the port? It won't fit on the front without an elbow, which is why I went to a 2.5" in the published box layout. If you haven't cut all the parts, you could add a bit of depth to the box, but it won't make a huge difference either way.diVine Sound - my DIY speaker designs at diVine Audio- Bottom
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On the front with multiple turns to slowly angle it up. It's all cut unfortunately.- Bottom
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Erse audio had several of the inductors on back order. I ended up buying a few from PE. Jantzen Audio 0.39mH 15 AWG Air Core Inductor Crossover Coil
Inductance: .39 mH
Wire gauge: 15 AWG
DCR: .17 ohms
Power handling: 500 watts RMS
Dimensions: 1.81" Dia x 1.2" H
and
Jantzen Audio 0.91mH 15 AWG Air Core Inductor Crossover Coil
Inductance: .91 mH
Wire gauge: 15 AWG
DCR: .29 ohms
Power handling: 500 watts RMS
Dimensions: 2.12" Dia x 1.2" H
These differ from the ones you originally speced:
.39mH 14ga (.12ohm)
.91mH 18ga (.40ohm)
Is this going to be a problem and do I need to find erse inductors?
Does anybody have pictures of the X-over board layout? With this many inductors I'm having trouble laying it out efficiently (doing the series version).- Bottom
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I have layouts for the parallel cross over. I think you were doing the series?
I need to get back on this before someone else finishes a build before me. I know that it's not a race but I have to try to finish at some point! I've made some progress on finishing the cross overs but life has been getting in the way!- Bottom
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As long as impedance is pretty close your good to go on alternate inductors.diVine Sound - my DIY speaker designs at diVine Audio- Bottom
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Thanks and thanks again for the awesome design CJD! I'm starting to fall in love with these speakers and as long as they sound as good as they look they will become my mains. I decided to order the erse parts from meniscus and have them custom unwound to match .39 and .91. I felt the resistance difference between .40ohm and .29ohm was too great and I don't want to relay them out and redo the work.- Bottom
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I have layouts for the parallel cross over. I think you were doing the series?
I need to get back on this before someone else finishes a build before me. I know that it's not a race but I have to try to finish at some point! I've made some progress on finishing the cross overs but life has been getting in the way!- Bottom
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I would be interested in seeing a picture of someones completed Series crossover as well. I started on these awhile ago, but haven't been able to finish them yet.- Bottom
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Has anyone done an A/B listening comparison between the series and parallel crossovers? I know they should sound pretty much the same. I just wonder if they have been compared in listening tests.- Bottom
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Ok, I screwed up yet again. I measured 34" up the baffle/rear for the height of the speaker so the speaker would be short. I can add a 3/8 or 1/2 each of MDF to the top putting me at the overall 34" height but loosing around 48 cubic inches in volume. This combined with the 3" port volume loss how much low end am I going to loose and should I just start over? I would rather it be correct/sound good than make exceptions at this point and have to completely redo it later.- Bottom
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IMO you'll be absolutely fine.What you screamin' for, every five minutes there's a bomb or something. I'm leavin' Bzzzzzzz!
5th Element, otherwise known as Matt.
Now with website. www.5een.co.uk Still under construction.- Bottom
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Woah woah woah, where are you discarding these inches so arbitrarily?! It's gonna sound...
exactly the same as the other one you built.
It won't reach quite as deep, but gains a touch of power handling and probably still remains lower than a Q of .707 that so many target.
You'll be fine.diVine Sound - my DIY speaker designs at diVine Audio- Bottom
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