The Pecorinos

[joeybutts]

Chris - If I was going to use a pair of these in the marquee of an arcade machine, I would use the NON-BSC Xover correct?

Also, is there any problem with my squeezing the height down and pushing out the depth?

[JimH]

First post has the following statement. Did you mean R2?

"R1 can range from 1-3.5ohm depending on whether you like more of a downward tilt (1ohm - 1.5ohm) or an upward tilt."

[cjd]

First post has the following statement. Did you mean R2?

"R1 can range from 1-3.5ohm depending on whether you like more of a downward tilt (1ohm - 1.5ohm) or an upward tilt."

Why yes I do believe I did.

[oldloder]

Was there ever any check on how close the rs100-4 would work as a drop-in replacement? I'm also always one of those with the wrong impedance driver.

[cjd]

Not even close as a drop in due to the impedance difference.

[oldloder]

Lol, I shouldn't post pre-coffee in the a.m ... I meant to ask about the shielded vs. non-shielded. But since I did ask, any interest in a -4 version?

[cjd]

Ahh. I don't have any non-shielded to test, and haven't had any particular reason to pick any up for that purpose. Same goes for the -4, really.

C

[oldloder]

Sure ... I'll pick the spec'd ones someday.

[cjd]

Sure ... I'll pick the spec'd ones someday.

Or somewhere along the way a driver or two of the other flavor will wander through the house for a while allowing me to get some measurements. Never know...

[oldloder]

You have a pm, sir.

[kgveteran]

The stands look like old Spica gravity stands.....they were cast iron, hence gravity.. And filled with lead shot

[cjd]

Well...

A 4ohm variation is in progress.

Inductor size dropped, as expected. But ... how do we say this... I fully expect to see larger cap sizes, and more. To get a full-BSC variation to work, a zobel was required or a 4dB peak in a bad spot shows up.

Whee?

More to come...

[oldloder]

Plenty of patience here.

For what it's worth, my use for them would be wall mounted, bookshelved or desktop for PC speakers.

[Brian Bunge]

Same for me! I need something in a small, wall mounted surround. The 4-ohm version might be perfect for that! ;-)

[cjd]

In case anyone was interested, the interior:



C

[oldloder]

Nice and simple... I understand the bracing better. Might there be any benefit to adding mass to the walls or polyfill?

[Brian Bunge]

Hey Chris,

Wanna build me a pair? I already have the woofers! ;-)

[cjd]

Sure. Send the parts on over. The baffles aren't bad to route and stuff, if I can find the jig I used for mine. A whole lot easier to give them the final listen and tweak that way. Not till after the Thanksgiving holiday at the earliest though. You want full BSC or on-wall?

[cjd]

Nice and simple... I understand the bracing better. Might there be any benefit to adding mass to the walls or polyfill?

Yes - I've been pondering an order of the stick-on vinyl from PE. I used that for my last computer build and it's very nice. A bit of ceiling tile or similar 'glass behind the woofer would probably be good too. Or maybe that blue denim stuff Scott recommends for his Lithium build...

[Brian Bunge]

Chris,

What is the low frequency extension on these? I'd definitely want on-walls. If you can send me a list of parts I'd need I can order them and have them shipped to you. Any ideas on how to easily mount these on the wall? I'd prefer flat to the wall if at all possible.

[---k---]

I hung a pair a while back with a picture hook and wire. These are small enough that it should work well.

[Brian Bunge]

Ryan,

That's pretty cool. How did you attach the wire to the Hammond box?

[cjd]

I would probably bolt a hanger on. Low profile. Where to out the binding posts though...

[---k---]

Ryan,

That's pretty cool. How did you attach the wire to the Hammond box?

Sorry. I wasn't specific. My project was wood, so I used the tiny nails that came with the wire strip. With a Hammond box I would probably use epoxy because I like using epoxy. CJD's idea of little bolts would work great. These things are so light, it doesn't take much. I wouldn't spend much time thinking about it.

Here is what mine looks like on the wall. You can see how close this gets them to the wall. Mine has a terminal cup on back. Oh, and I got a pair of those rubber dots that are used on cabinet doors at the bottom corners. Felt pads would work too.




Probably put the terminals on bottom of yours. Use a longer wire to tilt them, if desired?

[Brian Bunge]

I built some on-walls for someone once with the back recessed and used a cleat made of MDF to mount them flat to the wall. Obviously not possible with a metal enclosure. I'd thought about doing something similar with these if they were wood enclosures, but honestly a low profile mount that could be tilted slightly up or down would be cool. I'll take a look around and see if there's any such animal available...

[cjd]

F3 is between 120 and 130Hz give or take. The RS100-4 is better suited to this enclosure all things considered.

They need something to fill in below, though sound quite nice straight-up. Peak SPL@1M on wall is near 100dB before they hit excursion limits.

Hangers, I really like the look of the Zinc Plated hangers (pn 17565A31) here for something like this.

C

[Brian Bunge]

Those look perfect! I assume they could be epoxied to the backs of the enclosures.