Statements II remix inspired build

[roxkz]

EDIT: As conditions around the build changed and a back injury. The goal of the build changed to a slightly modified normal Statement II build as my back problems prohibited me from doing the work required for the first intended build.
Changed made to the statements are the following: Slighty narrower (6%), driver array moved up in the tower to get tweeter to ear level, hidden bottom compartement holding crossovers for easy access, mid tunnels slightly narrower (6%) to accomodate extra airflow from the narrower cabinet, front baffle is semi-sunk into the speakerbox for extra rigidity, front sides chamfered due to WAF-interference, carbon fiber inlays on the front, speakon plugs and smaller internal volume due to the new RS225's. Build at 80% completion and are awaiting warmer wheather to be able to work on them in the non heated workshop.


Hi! I've long looked at the statements with dreamy eyes and recently bought a house that has enough room to make them feasable! Wife said Ok strangely enough, but they had to look awesome.
So I recently ordered everything needed for the Statement IIs and it arrived earlier this week together with yet another Dayton RSS390HO that is going into a second sub.

I've sketched a bit on my new speakers and I think I've decided on a crossover between the remix and the originals.
Here is a preliminary drawing, I'm going to keep baffle width in between the remix and original and also keep the depth, they will be slighty shorter and use a back firing port though.
Construction will be done in 19mm MDF and sides will be 4mm Plywood sandwiched. Considering doing walnut veneer and black baffles.


Construction will begin as soon as I get some spare time after we move in next week. I might cheat a bit and start early though...
Is everything looking ok? Any nifty ideas to spice things up?

[Jim Holtz]

Very nice!

A couple questions;

What is the total cabinet volume?

How high will the ribbon be off the floor?

The only other caution I have is the cabinet depth and baffle width shouldn't vary more than 10% from the original plans.

Jim

[roxkz]

Very nice!

A couple questions;

What is the total cabinet volume?

How high will the ribbon be off the floor?

The only other caution I have is the cabinet depth and baffle width shouldn't vary more than 10% from the original plans.

Jim

Of course! I'm humbled by your dedication on the forums by supporting your creations for those of us who builds them.
Cabinet volume is being calculated at this moment to be honest as I have time contraints during the moving process, target volume is 20% less than original Statements to compensate for the 'new' unshielded rs-drivers, if there is a lack of volume it will be compensated by adjusting the towers height while retaining the ribbons center position in height. The ribbons center will be 910-930 Millimeters of the ground (~36-37 Inches of the floor).

Depth will be spot on the millimeter of the original statements, bafflewidth will be ~0.75 Inches smaller than the originals. That Should be Ok?

[Jim Holtz]

Of course! I'm humbled by your dedication on the forums by supporting your creations for those of us who builds them.
Cabinet volume is being calculated at this moment to be honest as I have time contraints during the moving process, target volume is 20% less than original Statements to compensate for the 'new' unshielded rs-drivers, if there is a lack of volume it will be compensated by adjusting the towers height while retaining the ribbons center position in height. The ribbons center will be 910-930 Millimeters of the ground (~36-37 Inches of the floor).

Depth will be spot on the millimeter of the original statements, bafflewidth will be ~0.75 Inches smaller than the originals. That Should be Ok?

Thank you for the kind thoughts! Curt and I appreciate it.

Baffle width should be fine so no worries there.

Ribbon height may be a problem. The ribbons should be positioned on the baffle so they fall in the 39"-41" range which is the seated listening "ear" height of most people. Driver layout and spacing should also remain the same. That will provide maximum listening enjoyment.

The new RS225's work great in a net volume of 70 liters on up to the original Statements which netted out a little over 100 liters. The original Statements actually calculated to a gross volume of about 120 liters before subtracting mid tunnels, bracing and driver volume.

We're looking forward to seeing pictures of your build as it progresses.

good luck!

Jim

[roxkz]

Thank you for the kind thoughts! Curt and I appreciate it.

Baffle width should be fine so no worries there.

Ribbon height may be a problem. The ribbons should be positioned on the baffle so they fall in the 39"-41" range which is the seated listening "ear" height of most people. Driver layout and spacing should also remain the same. That will provide maximum listening enjoyment.

The new RS225's work great in a net volume of 70 liters on up to the original Statements which netted out a little over 100 liters. The original Statements actually calculated to a gross volume of about 120 liters before subtracting mid tunnels, bracing and driver volume.

We're looking forward to seeing pictures of your build as it progresses.

good luck!

Jim

That's good to hear! I followed the original Statement II drawings which calls for a ribbon height of 960 mm (38 Inches), so i Figured 37 Inches would still be ok! Would it be acceptable to move the entire array of drivers upward an inch or two if cabinet height allows. Driver Spacing and layout is identical to the original drawings!

Is there any advantages to the larger volume except for I guess a slighly lower tune? I'm trying to keep size down for WAF-reasons... Two subs with 390HO's is pushing it. lol

I'll calculate the volume tomorrow when I have some spare time, I hope it'll all go to plan. I do have some issues finding the correct resistor values, but I can combine other values to make it more or less the same end value. That would be ok?
Building of the speakers will take some time as I have a lot on my plate, but at least the drivers are here!
Thank you for your kind words and support!


I hope this will be some of the last speakers I build for many years, I'm looking to put my old Vifa PL18 + DX25 combo to rest.

[Jim Holtz]

That's good to hear! I followed the original Statement II drawings which calls for a ribbon height of 960 mm (38 Inches), so i Figured 37 Inches would still be ok! Would it be acceptable to move the entire array of drivers upward an inch or two if cabinet height allows. Driver Spacing and layout is identical to the original drawings!

Is there any advantages to the larger volume except for I guess a slighly lower tune? I'm trying to keep size down for WAF-reasons... Two subs with 390HO's is pushing it. lol

I'll calculate the volume tomorrow when I have some spare time, I hope it'll all go to plan. I do have some issues finding the correct resistor values, but I can combine other values to make it more or less the same end value. That would be ok?
Building of the speakers will take some time as I have a lot on my plate, but at least the drivers are here!
Thank you for your kind words and support!


I hope this will be some of the last speakers I build for many years, I'm looking to put my old Vifa PL18 + DX25 combo to rest.

Opps! I forgot that I built the Statements for my seated ear height. I'm 6' tall but the couch in the listening/home theater room sits low which put my ears at 38". Curt scolded me and since then, I've suggested 39" - 41" for more normal seating heights. Sit down on the furniture you'll be sitting in and measure your seated ear height. Yes, the drivers can be moved up/down as a group if needed.

Bigger or smaller cabinet isn't a problem as long as the width/depth stay within the 10% guidline. It's easy to take inches off the top without affecting anything.

Actually, I'd recommend either paralleling resistors to increase power handling or get Zisters from Meniscus. They're 25 watt and measure spot on. Here's the original BOM I put together;

8.0 ohm (R3051); Parallel two 16 ohm = 8 ohm
(4) 16 ohm Lynx resistors

6.0 ohm (R3041); Parallel two 12 ohm = 6 ohm
(4) 12.0 ohm Lynx resistors

4.5 ohm (R2051); Series 1.8 ohm and 2.7 ohm = 4.5 ohm
(2) 1.8 ohm Lynx resistors
(2) 2.7 ohm Lynx resistors

4.0 ohm (R2061); Series two 2.0 ohm = 4.0 ohm
(4) 2.0 ohm Lynx resistors

(2) 1.0 ohm Lynx resistors


Of course I'm biased but I think you'll like the Statements II. :W

HTH

Jim

[roxkz]

Opps! I forgot that I built the Statements for my seated ear height. I'm 6' tall but the couch in the listening/home theater room sits low which put my ears at 38". Curt scolded me and since then, I've suggested 39" - 41" for more normal seating heights. Sit down on the furniture you'll be sitting in and measure your seated ear height. Yes, the drivers can be moved up/down as a group if needed.

Bigger or smaller cabinet isn't a problem as long as the width/depth stay within the 10% guidline. It's easy to take inches off the top without affecting anything.

Actually, I'd recommend either paralleling resistors to increase power handling or get Zisters from Meniscus. They're 25 watt and measure spot on. Here's the original BOM I put together;

8.0 ohm (R3051); Parallel two 16 ohm = 8 ohm
(4) 16 ohm Lynx resistors

6.0 ohm (R3041); Parallel two 12 ohm = 6 ohm
(4) 12.0 ohm Lynx resistors

4.5 ohm (R2051); Series 1.8 ohm and 2.7 ohm = 4.5 ohm
(2) 1.8 ohm Lynx resistors
(2) 2.7 ohm Lynx resistors

4.0 ohm (R2061); Series two 2.0 ohm = 4.0 ohm
(4) 2.0 ohm Lynx resistors

(2) 1.0 ohm Lynx resistors


Of course I'm biased but I think you'll like the Statements II. :W

HTH

Jim

Thank you! I will adjust my build accordingly!
I will parallel as per the drawing/BOM but I had some issues finding correct resistors as I'm in Sweden.. Sourcing parts is not always easy.
Calcuated gross cabinet volume of 110 to 120 liters depending on cabinet height. That should put me decently on track with the required volume, after bracing and other stuff is subtracted I guess I'll land around 80 liters?
I will I'll be happy with them as well, they'll see 55% Music, 30% Movie use and around 15% Gaming use. Supported with my dual subs for movies, my plan was that they should hold their own with music.

Another sketch made with another alternative next to the original idea... Yay or nay?

[Steve Manning]

Just because I like a challenge .... the one on the right would be interesting to build. Do you have some other angles of them?

[roxkz]

Just because I like a challenge .... the one on the right would be interesting to build. Do you have some other angles of them?

Of course! This is just simple sketches to make changes before i realize the project! But it's a wonderful tool to help visualize and take a concept a step further and help with contruction thoughts. My wife voted for the former model as she thought they looked a bit alienish... :roll:

[Steve Manning]

I love using Sketchup, though of late I have been using Fusion 360, it's a lot more power tool with everything it can do right out of the box.

I like either, though for me that taper might be a bit too long. Some Sonus Farber models have something similar going on. Very nice either way.

[roxkz]

I love using Sketchup, though of late I have been using Fusion 360, it's a lot more power tool with everything it can do right out of the box.

I like either, though for me that taper might be a bit too long. Some Sonus Farber models have something similar going on. Very nice either way.

I actually agree with you, I followed the cabinet curve but it was still too long.. I was indeed inspired by sonus! I've not tried fusion360 but I have experience in 3dsmax and cad, but sketchup does the job for this. Got some more sketches going on. Either way I'm going to do a complete drawing of it probably, if somebody wants to do a similar build.

Thanks for your feedback and kind words.

[roxkz]

Ok, an update incoming! My filter components supplier is draggings it's feet slower than a frozen snail up a tefloncoated hill... Delivery date is at end of month, sigh!
Good part is that I finally got my MDF boards picked up (they actually fit whole into our van!) and will begin cutting this week when my circular saw arrives.
Final design tweaks are still in the air and being nailed down as we speak, we're also in the middle of moving into a new house and doing renovations (hidden speaker cables, speaker connections on the walls, new flooring with sound dampening, 120" Gray Screen, pop-up TV lift cabinet and two new walls... A new fence and what not so it's pretty hectic right now).

Pictures will follow as soon as I get to work with this.
If i choose to do the curved sides, I'm debating which material to use for laminating sides! Either 3-5mm hardboard or 4-7mm plywood. Any thoughts or recommendations?

[Steve Manning]

This stuff works very well for laminating, especially with the curves you have shown in your drawings you should have no problems.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hardboard-Tempered-Panel-Common-3-16-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Actual-0-155-in-x-47-7-in-x-95-7-in-832780/202404545?keyword=Eucaboard

[DML9]

A "frozen snail up a Teflon-coated hill"! Too funny. You made my day.

And, quit lollygagging around. You act as though moving homes and doing renovations including a home theater take a lot of time. :lol: WOW!

[FastTimes]

I think the rear flair would look great and both the top and the bottom if you could incorporate them

[djkest]

I think the rear flair would look great and both the top and the bottom if you could incorporate them

Yeah, that would look pretty cool. Reminds me of a Viking longship, with the woodgrain on the sides like that.

[roxkz]

A "frozen snail up a Teflon-coated hill"! Too funny. You made my day.

And, quit lollygagging around. You act as though moving homes and doing renovations including a home theater take a lot of time. :lol: WOW!

For some reason that's what came to mind when I thought of it, speaking of snails on impossible missions my filter components are not sent yet... lol
Yeah for some reasons it takes alot longer than it should..

I think the rear flair would look great and both the top and the bottom if you could incorporate them

That was my original plan actually, have a sketch of it somewhere...

Yeah, that would look pretty cool. Reminds me of a Viking longship, with the woodgrain on the sides like that.

Yeah it gives very distinct look with wood!

But I have to unfortunately give you the bad news that i suffered an injury, or rather and old one making itself known yet again during home renovations. So for the last weeks I've been more or less a vegetable in bed, can barely get out of bed myself, much less walk properply or sleep at night due to nerves being pinched by a broken lumbar disc. So project in its current iteration is put on hold, or perhaps just simplified to make it possible for me to complete it within a foreseeable timeframe. I apologize for this and will update yet again when nerves hates me less or I decided where to head with it as I already have all the speakers and filter components are on the way.

[BobEllis]

Fighting lumbar issues myself, I literally feel your pain. I stupidly pushed through it last year to complete my Wavecor Ardents while also pedaling the most miles I'd ever done in a year (beat my previous flatland record by over 1,000 miles in hill country) This year I am still paying the price. Rest, follow your doctor's advice and when you do get back to it, rest or better yet, stop work if you feel any back pain coming on.

My doctor is a big fan of a BIG burst dose of prednisone, a strong anti inflammatory - he calls the typically prescribed dose packs worthless for anyone over 100 pounds. What he gave me 3 weeks ago was about 5 times that dose, and it has worked miracles. Too bad you can only use it a few times a year. I had been using a cane and sometimes a walker just to get around the house. I now only grab the cane just in case if I have to make a midnight bathroom run or if we are going out. When my back gets tired, it goes quickly and if I don't have the cane to lean on it gets ugly. I'm about to turn 59, and it really irks me that I started using a cane just a couple years after my father, who is now 83.

Another thing that seems to help me a lot is an inversion table. I know it sounds like a joke, but 10 of the dozen I know who have tried swear by them. One of the two quitters inverted too far the first time and got a headache, and blamed the machine. In just a couple of uses (ten minutes at -20°) I noticed a distinct change in the way my legs feel. That shooting sciatica feeling was reduced dramatically. I've even been able to ride my bike a bit. Nowhere near at last year's pace (I rarely rode less than 50 miles at a time), but I can go 25-30 miles at a pop and my back will still feel good the next day. I do 10 minutes on the table before and after riding. Strongly recommended. If you can borrow/try one out you'll probably be able to tell if it will work for you in ten minutes on the table.

Lastly, as your doctor or physical therapist has no doubt mentioned, core strengthening exercises and stretching are incredibly important. Especially for those of us who sit a lot. Hamstrings get tight and tug on the back when you stand. Ditto hip flexors. Of course bicycling is a hamstring shortening form of exercise so I had a double whammy. Especially when I got a new knee and the attachment points were suddenly an inch further apart.

Best wishes for a speedy recovery.

[roxkz]

Fighting lumbar issues myself, I literally feel your pain. I stupidly pushed through it last year to complete my Wavecor Ardents while also pedaling the most miles I'd ever done in a year (beat my previous flatland record by over 1,000 miles in hill country) This year I am still paying the price. Rest, follow your doctor's advice and when you do get back to it, rest or better yet, stop work if you feel any back pain coming on.

My doctor is a big fan of a BIG burst dose of prednisone, a strong anti inflammatory - he calls the typically prescribed dose packs worthless for anyone over 100 pounds. What he gave me 3 weeks ago was about 5 times that dose, and it has worked miracles. Too bad you can only use it a few times a year. I had been using a cane and sometimes a walker just to get around the house. I now only grab the cane just in case if I have to make a midnight bathroom run or if we are going out. When my back gets tired, it goes quickly and if I don't have the cane to lean on it gets ugly. I'm about to turn 59, and it really irks me that I started using a cane just a couple years after my father, who is now 83.

Another thing that seems to help me a lot is an inversion table. I know it sounds like a joke, but 10 of the dozen I know who have tried swear by them. One of the two quitters inverted too far the first time and got a headache, and blamed the machine. In just a couple of uses (ten minutes at -20°) I noticed a distinct change in the way my legs feel. That shooting sciatica feeling was reduced dramatically. I've even been able to ride my bike a bit. Nowhere near at last year's pace (I rarely rode less than 50 miles at a time), but I can go 25-30 miles at a pop and my back will still feel good the next day. I do 10 minutes on the table before and after riding. Strongly recommended. If you can borrow/try one out you'll probably be able to tell if it will work for you in ten minutes on the table.

Lastly, as your doctor or physical therapist has no doubt mentioned, core strengthening exercises and stretching are incredibly important. Especially for those of us who sit a lot. Hamstrings get tight and tug on the back when you stand. Ditto hip flexors. Of course bicycling is a hamstring shortening form of exercise so I had a double whammy. Especially when I got a new knee and the attachment points were suddenly an inch further apart.

Best wishes for a speedy recovery.

With a risk of going offtopic, that really sucks! I hope to avoid a cane for some years yet as I just turned 32 years old. Work on the speakers has been temporarily halted as it's crippling me to the point I can't get out of bed on my own. My Sciatica nerve is being pinched so I get sharp pains in my leg to the point where I can't stand on it, much less walk. I've tried just about everything you mentioned and got nice excercises and I'm on enough painkillers to make a horse go numb! I didn't know prednisone could be used that way, my wife takes them for her allergies... Might be worth investigating! I hope you're keeping healthy as getting sick or any kind of immobilization with back problems is the worst thing that can happen.

Thanks on the kind words and advice!

On the good news I'm recovering and I'm redrawing the build a bit simpler to be able to complete it in due time. Also I got the best anniversary gift ever from my wife! A nice new toy to play with, she knows what to buy alright!



Can't look forward enough to using it! My former work as a carpenter rubbed of a certain 'tool fetish'.

Questions to thoose who might know, the 127mm/5" tunnels for the mids, are 121mm a close enough match? As I can source free pipes in that diameter which would be better alot nicer than the square ones. Would be a 5% deviation from the original...

Best regards,
Daniel

[roxkz]

Fighting lumbar issues myself, I literally feel your pain. I stupidly pushed through it last year to complete my Wavecor Ardents while also pedaling the most miles I'd ever done in a year (beat my previous flatland record by over 1,000 miles in hill country) This year I am still paying the price. Rest, follow your doctor's advice and when you do get back to it, rest or better yet, stop work if you feel any back pain coming on.

My doctor is a big fan of a BIG burst dose of prednisone, a strong anti inflammatory - he calls the typically prescribed dose packs worthless for anyone over 100 pounds. What he gave me 3 weeks ago was about 5 times that dose, and it has worked miracles. Too bad you can only use it a few times a year. I had been using a cane and sometimes a walker just to get around the house. I now only grab the cane just in case if I have to make a midnight bathroom run or if we are going out. When my back gets tired, it goes quickly and if I don't have the cane to lean on it gets ugly. I'm about to turn 59, and it really irks me that I started using a cane just a couple years after my father, who is now 83.

Another thing that seems to help me a lot is an inversion table. I know it sounds like a joke, but 10 of the dozen I know who have tried swear by them. One of the two quitters inverted too far the first time and got a headache, and blamed the machine. In just a couple of uses (ten minutes at -20°) I noticed a distinct change in the way my legs feel. That shooting sciatica feeling was reduced dramatically. I've even been able to ride my bike a bit. Nowhere near at last year's pace (I rarely rode less than 50 miles at a time), but I can go 25-30 miles at a pop and my back will still feel good the next day. I do 10 minutes on the table before and after riding. Strongly recommended. If you can borrow/try one out you'll probably be able to tell if it will work for you in ten minutes on the table.

Lastly, as your doctor or physical therapist has no doubt mentioned, core strengthening exercises and stretching are incredibly important. Especially for those of us who sit a lot. Hamstrings get tight and tug on the back when you stand. Ditto hip flexors. Of course bicycling is a hamstring shortening form of exercise so I had a double whammy. Especially when I got a new knee and the attachment points were suddenly an inch further apart.

Best wishes for a speedy recovery.

With a risk of going offtopic, that really sucks! I hope to avoid a cane for some years yet as I just turned 32 years old. Work on the speakers has been temporarily halted as it's crippling me to the point I can't get out of bed on my own. My Sciatica nerve is being pinched so I get sharp pains in my leg to the point where I can't stand on it, much less walk. I've tried just about everything you mentioned and got nice excercises and I'm on enough painkillers to make a horse go numb! I didn't know prednisone could be used that way, my wife takes them for her allergies... Might be worth investigating! I hope you're keeping healthy as getting sick or any kind of immobilization with back problems is the worst thing that can happen.

On the good news I'm recovering and I'm redrawing the build a bit simpler to be able to complete it in due time. Also I got the best anniversary gift ever from my wife! A nice new toy to play with, she knows what to buy alright!

Can't look forward enough to using it! My former work as a carpenter rubbed of a certain 'tool fetish'.

Questions to those who might know, the 127mm/5" tunnels for the mids, are 121mm a close enough match? As I can source free pipes in that diameter which would be better a lot nicer than the square ones. Would be a 5% deviation from the original...

Best regards,
Daniel

[BobEllis]

Glad to hear you're recovering well. Much better to be young. Following the therapy outlined above, prednisone, inversion, stretching and core work I was able to stop using my cane. Still a long way from healthy, but at least I don't look like such an old man.

Nice saw. I have a big Hitachi router. One of the best built tools I own.

I'd think that small diameter wouldn't matter. Use just a bit less foam, as Curt advises people going bigger to use a bit more.

[Jim Holtz]

Hi Daniel,

5%, no problem. Go for it.

I hope you and Bob both get back on your feet soon!

Jim

[roxkz]

Hi Daniel,

5%, no problem. Go for it.

I hope you and Bob both get back on your feet soon!

Jim

Thank you for your kind words and advice!

As I'm lucky enough to have you answering my myriad of questions I actually have one more... Is there a reason to not put the bass reflex port in between the to midrange tunnels, right behind the ribbon?
As I'll have improved airflow in that area with the new midrange tunnels, also how strong/sturdy/thick does the tunnels have to be? Would 8mm PE pipe or 3mm paper reinforced with fiberglass do the trick?

Best regards,
Daniel

[Jim Holtz]

Thank you for your kind words and advice!

As I'm lucky enough to have you answering my myriad of questions I actually have one more... Is there a reason to not put the bass reflex port in between the to midrange tunnels, right behind the ribbon?
As I'll have improved airflow in that area with the new midrange tunnels, also how strong/sturdy/thick does the tunnels have to be? Would 8mm PE pipe or 3mm paper reinforced with fiberglass do the trick?

Best regards,
Daniel

I think the 3mm would be a little thin since the mid tubes also are providing bracing. The 8mm should be fine. My conversion program comes up with .310 which would be a wall thickness of over 1/4" and will be fine for bracing. Since you'll have tubes instead of the MDF tunnels, you'll need to come up with a way to position and hold the tubes in place. Take a look at the Anthology's cabinet drawings for an idea of how we did it.

The port will be problematic since you need to use a 3" precision port which has a very large inner flare. I don't think you can make it fit between the tubes. Space is tight there.

HTH

Jim

[roxkz]

I think the 3mm would be a little thin since the mid tubes also are providing bracing. The 8mm should be fine. My conversion program comes up with .310 which would be a wall thickness of over 1/4" and will be fine for bracing. Since you'll have tubes instead of the MDF tunnels, you'll need to come up with a way to position and hold the tubes in place. Take a look at the Anthology's cabinet drawings for an idea of how we did it.

The port will be problematic since you need to use a 3" precision port which has a very large inner flare. I don't think you can make it fit between the tubes. Space is tight there.

HTH

Jim

Thank you! Most appreciated.

As earlier stated I've changed my plans a bit, I've decided to model my speaker in AutoCAD and order laser cut templates for the braces and structural pieces to router pieces from. I think I'm still planning on the curved build! I had to compromise on some of the values in the crossover (Changes are ~2% deviation from original values due to reasons of in-stock items, but I judge that it will be close enough to spec, as for example the 7.00mH coil was changed to an 6.85 mH coil but I will add another turn or two on it to be safe, it already measures 6.92 though) It's a really nice C-coil though! And damn theese caps are freakin HUGE!

[Jim Holtz]

Thank you! Most appreciated.

As earlier stated I've changed my plans a bit, I've decided to model my speaker in AutoCAD and order laser cut templates for the braces and structural pieces to router pieces from. I think I'm still planning on the curved build! I had to compromise on some of the values in the crossover (Changes are ~2% deviation from original values due to reasons of in-stock items, but I judge that it will be close enough to spec, as for example the 7.00mH coil was changed to an 6.85 mH coil but I will add another turn or two on it to be safe, it already measures 6.92 though) It's a really nice C-coil though! And damn theese caps are freakin HUGE!

[ATTACH=CONFIG]27568[/ATTACH]

Inductor values are important and you should be fine with a 2% deviation but DCR is just as important. What is the difference of the DCR value between the coil and steel laminate that was speced? There isn't a sonic benefit to using a coil vs a steel laminate in the woofer circuit so that should not be a consideration in your choice.

EDIT: The DCR of the steel laminate we used is around .3.

Jim

[roxkz]

Inductor values are important and you should be fine with a 2% deviation but DCR is just as important. What is the difference of the DCR value between the coil and steel laminate that was speced? There isn't a sonic benefit to using a coil vs a steel laminate in the woofer circuit so that should not be a consideration in your choice.

Jim

Unfortunately the laminate core was not available for me in any of my suppliers and the C-core matched best. So I had to make due! DCR for the original laminate was 0.31, DCR for the C-core is 0.16 so the difference is 0.15.

Edit. The alternative would have been lower grade ferrite core with higher DCR. I've been taught to avoid high DCR coils in general and not undersize the wire gage when designing crossovers. Hopefully it will not do much harm.

[Jim Holtz]

Unfortunately the laminate core was not available for me in any of my suppliers and the C-core matched best. So I had to make due! DCR for the original laminate was 0.31, DCR for the C-core is 0.16 so the difference is 0.15.

Edit. The alternative would have been lower grade ferrite core with higher DCR. I've been taught to avoid high DCR coils in general and not undersize the wire gage when designing crossovers. Hopefully it will not do much harm.

Curt is the crossover expert but he's out of pocket for a couple weeks so I searched and found feedback from others that I highly respect and the consensus was less than .2 ohm variance would be inaudible. Personally, I stay within +/- 5% tolerance for peace of mind.

Anyway, it sounds like you'll be OK with your coil as is.

Jim

[roxkz]

Curt is the crossover expert but he's out of pocket for a couple weeks so I searched and found feedback from others that I highly respect and the consensus was less than .2 ohm variance would be inaudible. Personally, I stay within +/- 5% tolerance for peace of mind.

Anyway, it sounds like you'll be OK with your coil as is.

Jim

Thank you for taking time to check and confirm! I ran some simulations of the woofer circuit earlier and could not make out any difference worth mentioning either. I'll lay out the filters tomorrow, provided I find my soldering station.

I would like to yet again applaud you for the presence and support on the forums!

Now I just need to sit tight and wait for the laser cut parts to arrive.

[roxkz]

Update time! Filters are nearly complete and they caused me some Headache due to me not reading the BoM closely enough due to a migraine and being stubborn, but I made it work somehow.

Soldering time today, and it's looking pretty ok. Been a while since my old soldering station saw some use, it's been with me for ~20 years now.

Filtercomponents glued down!



Layout of filters, reversed for soldering from the backside.



Getting the legs of things mechanically fastened for soldering, and making attachments-hoop-things for the wires.



My little get-away that was allowed into my Office.. lol, Wife is just happy I'm not doing on the livingroom table.



I'll get back when I have more things. Also, the resistor hookup might look odd, but it's because I went parallel instead of series for a part due to me having some good leftover resistors at home.

Update:
Soldering done and filters tested, they sound pretty good just laying flat on the carpet... Nothing exploded or sounded weird. xD Coffee needed to fuel the Soldering Frenzy!

[roxkz]

Thought I should update! Sorry for lack of them but School and rehab has really been killing me. I've built the cabs, put en together and listened to them! I started to epoxy the open ended parts of the MDF and rounded off some corners and bondoed the crap out of them, otherwise wife would not allow them into the home.. I guess she's nice enough to allow theese 1.5 meter giants into her home as it is... Mistakes were made thought, the chuck on my router broke and my 45* routerbit slid down and cut a pretty much deeper groove than intended, so I just have to live with that.. And the bearing on my other router bit, brand new and not cheap broke into two and I cut into the side! What's life without hardship?

I'll post some pictures of build progress and accidents soon enough after I sort it through, they're standing inside adjusting to the temp and humidity now, I'll take em out in the spring when temperatures have risen and finish the bondo and sanding work. Finish will probably be a three stage Honda championship white with pearl...

Unless the new accident with the car eats up all my funds that is. Yesterday I found the engine room drenched in oil, first I was scared shitless.. a ton of Engine oil in the engine room is usually a bad sign. Thankfully it was the AC compressor oil splattered all over the place from a bad rubber hose... Still not gonna be free to fix though.
Best of luck to everybodies speaker building.

[roxkz]

Finally some images coming up..

Crossovers for my surrounds in the making.


Done!



Plates for the Statements.


Cutting up the MDF.







Ran out of MDF, so had to get some more for baffle... Barely fit.



Glueing baffles.






Gluing tunnels for mids.



Coming along nicely.



Preparing to add tunnels.



Checking so it all lines up.





Gluing up.



Gluing up speaker Forum







Lining up well again.



Gluing side and back.





Nr2 coming along.





More coming soon.

[TEK]

Nice progress!
But I have to ask - are these photos from Norway?

[roxkz]

Nice progress!
But I have to ask - are these photos from Norway?

Thank you, I've been backlogged on the progress reports.

Regarding location you're not far off.
I live in Sweden, roughly 300km from the Norwegian border.

What gave me away?

[TEK]

The grass and the trees seemed very familiar as a starter - then verified by the Biltema boxes :P

[roxkz]

The grass and the trees seemed very familiar as a starter - then verified by the Biltema boxes :P

Sharp eye! Well spotted.

Got some new toys today! Figured the statements like power, so I brought some.



Also ordered some custom PCBs from smart prototyping for some high quality buffered Line Drivers using That1646. That's next on the build list.

Also found this toroid while going through scrap in my small workshop.
Ought to match the line driver unit just perfect I think.

[roxkz]

Another update! Some might notice some minor changes to the statements design. They're small but was a step in making it more suited for my room. I kept the original massive height, was tempted to move the woofer down to get a MTMWW configuration but I wanted to keep the intimidating mass of the statement... Which is just about as tall as my wife. For some reason she agreed to the madness. *shrug*

Changes I've made is a recessed front. The 19mm is on the outside, and 12mm sandwich part is on the inside of the cabinet making a reinforcement and a pretty strong joint. It was a little pain in the ass but it turned out well. The front also rests on supports in the corners with dampening glue.
The bottom of the statement is an empty chamber housing the Crossover and also speaker terminal for easy access. I'll be using speakon as I do with almost all my design, and amplifiers.

Also, could somebody verify the correctness of my crossover, I've doublechecked but... I might make mistakes as well. Also, a check on port length, I'm using Swedish Aeroports.. Should be more or less the same, but what is the total length of ports with the flutes attached?
And I finally got motherboard and case for my HTPC.


A tight fit with the GTX 1050 graphics card. I wanted it for h265 decoding to take the load off the i5.



This is dusty business, better keep a mask on when dealing with MDF in this amount.


Finally one more or less complete...



Routing and fixing the rear, hole for the rear firing port and mid-chambers.





My more or less messy drawing for the driver layout in metrical...



And of course, something always to south when building speakers. The bearing on the router bit said goodgye and it went straight in. *sigh*





But it can be fixed, right?



There's always a way in DIY.





It's actually way more solid than I imagined it would be.



Routing driver holes... Went pretty smooth overall:



Adding dampening and fastening cables.




Gluing the first front on!



And the second front!



Routing the sides, it was a demand from my wife. So it had to be done. Also, the joint from the front to the side will be exactly in the edge of the cut. It's a 25-isch degree router bit, costed a small fortune.



Drenching the open-ended parts in epoxy to make sure they won't eat paint later on. All parts on the speaker got treated, even the driver holes.



Connecting wiring and checking.



It's Bondo time!



After a light primer, it's easy to see all damaged and scratches down to the down right level of annoying.



This is as far as I got before winter took over my workshop, they're standing in the guestroom adapting to the humidity, in a hope that after paint the MDF won't move as much.





Routing some tops and bottoms for a project for a friend..



Looks familiar? The driver setup should be at least. They turned out awesome.







til next time!



EDIT: Crossover picture, does this seem correct?

[TEK]

Really nice work!
The last ones (the small ones). Are the covered with carbon-fiber? Could you elaborste a bit about the process followed to get thatresult?

[roxkz]

Really nice work!
The last ones (the small ones). Are the covered with carbon-fiber? Could you elaborste a bit about the process followed to get thatresult?

Thank you! The small ones are indeed covered in carbon fiber, it's a 245g / m2 twill weave. The boxes are glued together, small problems fixed with bondo and sanding.
Then primed and painted black to stop anything showing through gaps in the weave.

Weave is glued to the box and trimmed in the edges. The weave is then coated several times with epoxy resin, the epoxy resin is then sanded down smooth.
The sanded epoxy is then covered again to close up any pinholes, and then wetsanded to a matte finish and covered in clearcoat two times and buffed.

Props to that build goes to a friend of mine who lives just a few minutes away, it's a pair of speakers for his computer. Driven by a DIY Chipamp, we built one each two years ago.


On another note, i really like the statements but they're a tad sharp in the upper end for me. Thinking about doing a minor modification to the crossover. It's either my room or the crossover being slightly too bright for my taste on some recordings.
EDIT: Update, have identified the sharpness as a ~2dB bump somwhere in the 1-3 Khz region. Can't measure right now as my umik is away on loan, but I will look into it when the mic is available.