Modified Anthology Build

**JonMarsh** · 15 July 2016, 09:45 Friday

Making the front baffle narrower is not a good idea- the baffle width controls the shape of the baffle step curve of the enclosure, i.e. the frequency response from 1kHz down to about 200 Hz, and modifying this will impact the design performance in that frequency range, and necessitate crossover changes if you want to keep the same on axis response. Use the original design width if at all possible. A half inch might not be very noticeable- 1" will be. Jim Holz might advise you further on that.

As to the amplifier, well, we don't know what your front end source components and preamp are- I've worked with Adcom amps a long, long time ago (90s) - the 545ii is a very respectable measuring amp (though not as good as some more modern "budget" amps like the Cambridge Audio 650W, see the "On the Bench" forum for test results on that one. you'd certainly get more power, and if your NCORE 400 build is implemented properly, it will likely measure better in a number of areas. I use an NAD M22 these days, and am building some OEM module based units, so I wouldn't say I'm impartial.

My experience comparing NC400 stuff to the NC500 based M22 indicates that a key factor (as always with amplifiers) is power supply, and for that reason I recommend NC400 builds using dual SMPS600 supplies, NOT combining two channels on one supply as is sometimes done. Actually, I recommend adapting the lower voltage version of SMPS1200 to the NC400, but that takes a little more effort, and using those in dual mono. For the NC500 modules, I prefer an SMPS1200 for each channel, though for HT with limited mains/statelite bandwidth, using two channels or even three seems to be fine with one SMPS1200.

The better your source gear, the more I would expect differences in downstream electronics to be a factor.

**mgivens** · 15 July 2016, 13:01 Friday

hey Jon,

thanks a lot for your input! maybe I can reduce the baffle .25in on each side instead of .5in? the wife likes tall skinny towers so I'm trying to obviously make her happy as she seems to be getting more into quality speakers lately...

thanks for all the hypex opinions. I guess I still have a lot to look into before pulling the trigger. I was looking at the Hypex mono block kits with the smps600 power supply for ease of the build.

My source is hi-fi tidal off my PC - Schiit modi 2 uber DAC - Schiit passive preamplifier - Adcom GFA545 ii.

-Michael

**Jim Holtz** · 16 July 2016, 09:39 Saturday

Hi Michael,

As Jon clearly stated, any design changes on a speaker result in compromises. The easy answer is build it as designed for best sound quality. We don't recommend changes to our designs but you can do it. Curt has determined that most designs can tolerate up to 10% deviation in width and depth with out adverse effects that would be audible. The height difference won't matter as long as the tweeter is at ear height and driver spacing is maintained. This is the "Y" part of DIY.

I can't comment on the amp question beyond the recommendation of at least 100 watts @8 ohms of good clean power. That translates to about 150 watts @4 ohms for good amps since these are 4 ohm speakers. If you're going to use the Anthology's to their potential, you need good clean power.

HTH

Jim

**JonMarsh** · 16 July 2016, 10:48 Saturday

I would say that your electronics are fairly well matched to each other as regards overall performance levels. On the other hand, I can say that several guys who have tried out NCORE solutions with one of my builds, the Ardent, have noticed improved overall definition, particularly in the bass, becuase the NC400 modules have very low output impedance over a wide frequency band- and they have neither the hardness in the upper range of some class D amps or the softness and slight veiling of the B&O ICEPOWER designs. Any reasonably configured NC400+SMPS600 Kit is likely to be an upgrade for you; exactly how much isn't something I'm in a position to predict. If you have plans to upgrade your source components, further, then the upgrade will be even more worth while (Schitt Yggdrasil, anyone? Sonic Transporter + microRendu instead of a PC?)

**mgivens** · 20 July 2016, 22:26 Wednesday

Thanks for the advice guys!
So I compromised and made the width 10.75 instead of 11.5...so less than 10% deviation.
Also have a black schiit bifrost multibit in the mail to up a part of my source game. Wife laughed when I brought up the yggy(also I don't know if that I could ever fit in the budget).
Still thinking about these ncore mono blocks.

Cut the parts today with my dad's help.

**Jim Holtz** · 20 July 2016, 22:36 Wednesday

The journey begins!

Jim

**mgivens** · 09 August 2016, 14:49 Tuesday

ok, lots of progress made with a only few hiccups...

got some help cutting all the holes

finished parts!

so hit a snag involving the PVC pipe...I could NOT find the thick walled stuff. home depot and lowes would not order it in. plumbing stores wanted to sell me 20ft at a crazy price.
I found thinner wall PVC, however I had already cut out the holes...I just made up a bunch of 3/16 blocks to center the new pipes in the hole...they still have a 6in inner diameter. I then made a epoxy putty with west systems and a filler compound I use on boat jobs.
this got lathered up and forced into the space between the pipe and wood. also sanded the pvc and washed to help it get mechanical grip with the epoxy putty. was messy but seemed to solve the whole problem.

rest of the cabinet has gone together easily.

working with the foam...

finally onto the crossovers from meniscus. Chad did a great job assembling them and I cant image NOT spending the money to have him do it.

lot of work to go, hopefully with get the wiring and foam done by tomorrow night. then onto the finishing. also ordered a whole NCORE nc400 setup that comes tomorrow as well, so ill be building that too!

-Michael

**Jim Holtz** · 09 August 2016, 15:01 Tuesday

Hi Michael,

Everything looks great!:T

So what the heck OD is the PVC you can get locally and does it have a "schedule" number? The home stores all stock schedule 40 & some 80 here in the Midwest. The schedule 40 measures 6 5/8". The PVC you used looks more than strong enough to work as bracing and the mid tunnels. Nice save, BTW!

Jim

**mgivens** · 09 August 2016, 15:38 Tuesday

Hi Jim,
thanks!

this is what I used, it feels VERY strong at these short lengths so I wasn't too worried. its 6.25 od http://www.homedepot.com/p/VPC-6-in-...06-2/202564459

I have a question on a few things, I know on other threads that you said there is no need to put foam in the port area...would any help at all down there? maybe some 1in flat is some places? I was going to put 8 oz of poly in the area around he PVC compartment, hopefully this is enough

also is it ok to hard attach the crossovers to the cabinet or would isolating it wish rubber or something help? thanks a ton, finally beginning to see the finish line with these and cant wait to listen!

**---k---** · 09 August 2016, 15:41 Tuesday

It does look good. :T

And agreed on the nice save on the PVC pipe. Very reasonable solution. But, and not to kick you, but I am wondering if your holes accidentally got cut bigger. Schedule 40 is universal pvc pipe and according to google is 6-5/8" OD x 6" ID.

**Jim Holtz** · 09 August 2016, 15:56 Tuesday

Originally posted by mgivens

Hi Jim,
thanks!

this is what I used, it feels VERY strong at these short lengths so I wasn't too worried. its 6.25 od http://www.homedepot.com/p/VPC-6-in-...06-2/202564459

I have a question on a few things, I know on other threads that you said there is no need to put foam in the port area...would any help at all down there? maybe some 1in flat is some places? I was going to put 8 oz of poly in the area around he PVC compartment, hopefully this is enough

also is it ok to hard attach the crossovers to the cabinet or would isolating it wish rubber or something help? thanks a ton, finally beginning to see the finish line with these and cant wait to listen!

Hi Michael,

Adding foam below the bottom brace in the port area won't do anything. The sound waves can't reflect back in the bottom of the cabinet. It won't hurt anything but you won't add any benefit either. The purpose of the foam is to kill reflected back waves from the driver which cause distortion when they're reflected back into the rear of the driver. The poly in the top 1/2 is optional. I stuffed mine with poly just because i could but all it does is make the cabinet look slightly larger to the RS225's. The cabinet is sized correctly to start with so little value is gained.

I have always screwed the crossover mount securely to a brace or side of the cabinet (carefully) to secure them. No worried attaching them securely.

As always, I look forward to hearing builder feedback. Let them burn in about 20 hours playing back ground music and then set down to seriously listen to them playing well recorded CD's. Let us know what you think.

HTH

Jim

Modified Anthology Build

Modified Anthology Build

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