Jensen 1071 Build

[Steve Manning]

Steve,

time for me to start my project. i hope it turns out half as nice as what you are doing. great work. i will be getting started on my project in the middle of march. i am being forced to go on a fishing trip to the seychelles the last week of feb and the first 2 weeks of march. i hate it when friends say i have to go deep sea fishing for 3 weeks, but i am going to force my self to go. then it will be speaker building time. it is going to be a watt/puppy design. i have changed my mind several times on drivers and design, but speakers are here and time to get started. keep up the great work.

craig :T ;x(

Hi Craig, good to hear from you ...... my heart is bleeding on the forced fishing trip though, especially in the Seychelles. I think I would be taking my dive gear along though and seeing the fish from below the surface.

Looking forward to seeing the build get started, I'm hoping to have mine done at that point and doing some listening ...

[craigk]

Steve,

time for me to start my project. i hope it turns out half as nice as what you are doing. great work. i will be getting started on my project in the middle of march. i am being forced to go on a fishing trip to the seychelles the last week of feb and the first 2 weeks of march. i hate it when friends say i have to go deep sea fishing for 3 weeks, but i am going to force my self to go. then it will be speaker building time. it is going to be a watt/puppy design. i have changed my mind several times on drivers and design, but speakers are here and time to get started. keep up the great work.

craig :T ;x(

[Steve Manning]

Looks good to me Steve...have you figured out how you are going to secure to the cabinet yet?

I am going to run bolts through from crossover compartment into some 1/4"-20 threaded inserts I'm going to put in the bubinga. So far that stuff seems be be staying nice and straight since I machined it down to thickness, so I'm hopeful it will stay where I want it.

[sdl2112]

Looks good to me Steve...have you figured out how you are going to secure to the cabinet yet?

[JonMarsh]

Looks like very good work, Steve- Hardwoods and LBL bamboo seem to have their own rules and techniques. Looks like you did get things sorted out- I wouldn't call resorting to a compound 45 degree miter joint a "defeat"- been there, done that quite recently!

[Steve Manning]

"Best laid plans of mice and men ..."

Got some nice weather to open up the garage and work on the trim for the cabinets. The plan I had for joining the trim at the corners did not go as planned. Between test lumber twisting, first time working with bubinga (hard as nails), first time using a miter lock bit on the router and compound angles, my butt was promptly handed to me over the course of the morning.

After a lunch break I decided to punt and go with a "straight forward", yeah right, compound 45 degree joints. Had a little better success with that, though the bubinga put up a fight being so hard. May need a little putty in the corners but not too bad. I ran across a good video on matching putty colors that I will post in the Woodworking Tips thread.







Here is some of the fun I had ..... this was after taping a piece of scrap to the edge for run off in hopes of stopping splitting, appears not to have worked !!

[Steve Manning]

That's some awesome woodworking there Steve, very impressive.

Thanks for the kind words ...

[Steve Manning]

I suppose you guys would salivate to have my friends 40' x 100' woodshop then

Does he adopt? I would be in pig heaven if I could have half that. I was drooling watching this guy build his shop http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/vide...am-shop-build/ and it's smaller than your friends.

This is a good site for tips and ideas for those interested. http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/

[Mark_1042]

That's some awesome woodworking there Steve, very impressive.

[jim1961]

I suppose you guys would salivate to have my friends 40' x 100' woodshop then

[JonMarsh]

While I understand your space constraints, it sounds like your spending as much time setting up and tearing down each task as you are working on it.

I suppose it helps to keep the extra calories off though :B

This is a VERY familiar concept to me- I have three off site storage units. Much time is spent moving tools and materials back and forth. I was quite busy this weekend, project related, but only spend about 2 hours working on actual "hardware"; the rest was logistics and planning. :roll:

I do try to do things in blocks of topic and tool related, but it was time to switch gears, which meant taking a bunch of stuff out to storage, bringing some other stuff back in, and working on the setup for the next phase of work (electrical and crossover, and finishing).

[Steve Manning]

While I understand your space constraints, it sounds like your spending as much time setting up and tearing down each task as you are working on it.

I suppose it helps to keep the extra calories off though :B

Pretty much ....... I ran an Electron Beam Welding facility where I work for about 5 years, and for the typical weld it could take hours to days getting things setup for a weld and the actual weld taking 60 seconds to complete.

A bigger shed is on my "want" list so I can get things like bikes and what not out so I can leave the big tools set in place and not waste as much time. Of course then I'll have to come up with another excuse of why it takes so long.


Unfortunately not enough on the calorie part ...

[jim1961]

Thanks Scott ...... I don't have much choice in keeping things clean and organized. Like most of us I have to share the garage with household stuff, dive gear, bikes, etc. so I'm limited on the extra space, so I don't much room to leave stuff set up all the time. I think I spend most of my time setting up one machine then move it and set up another, then I do bulding. Today was a prime example of that, used the table saw, the band saw, the jointer, and the planer all having to occupy pretty much the same spot in the garage. I felt like I was on a merry-go-round move stuff back and forth.

How's the build going by the way?

While I understand your space constraints, it sounds like your spending as much time setting up and tearing down each task as you are working on it.

I suppose it helps to keep the extra calories off though :B

[Steve Manning]

Well, I've got backside binding post plates on the upper modules already because I figure I'll be tweaking and tuning the crossovers a while, so I do have options. I strained my right forearm last week, so while the spirit and nerves are willing, the muscles or tendons have some limitations! :W

Now don't be breaking yourself Jon, we're all wanting to see that awesome build of yours finished.

[Steve Manning]

Glad to see you making good progress...your shop looks so nice, clean and organized :T

Thanks Scott ...... I don't have much choice in keeping things clean and organized. Like most of us I have to share the garage with household stuff, dive gear, bikes, etc. so I'm limited on the extra space, so I don't much room to leave stuff set up all the time. I think I spend most of my time setting up one machine then move it and set up another, then I do bulding. Today was a prime example of that, used the table saw, the band saw, the jointer, and the planer all having to occupy pretty much the same spot in the garage. I felt like I was on a merry-go-round move stuff back and forth.

How's the build going by the way?

[JonMarsh]

Well, I've got backside binding post plates on the upper modules already because I figure I'll be tweaking and tuning the crossovers a while, so I do have options. I strained my right forearm last week, so while the spirit and nerves are willing, the muscles or tendons have some limitations! :W

[sdl2112]

I'm close to that point- 118 lb for the bass modules is up there, but still doable- with 35 lb from the empty upper module, that will cross the line. I'm dreading gluing them together, and will likely put that off until I have them over at GF's just before lacquer booth time.

You know Jon...I don't think there would be any harm in bolting the the upper and lower modules internally for assembly ease. I guess you would just have to figure out the wire management.

[sdl2112]

Finally got back in the garage after the holidays and got a little work done. Felt good to be making some progress again even if it was filling screw holes with bondo .....

Getting the cabinets on and off the work bench is now a two person operation. Not sure what they way, but trying to get them on and off the bench by myself is out of the question.

Glad to see you making good progress...your shop looks so nice, clean and organized :T

[JonMarsh]

Not sure on the weight, I'm planing on borrowing the heavy duty scales we have at work and get a number, my guess is somewhere north of a 100 lbs. At this point I can pick them up and position them around on the dollies but I'm afraid of damaging them trying to get them on and off the bench ..... as well as potentially my back in the process. One of the joys of getting old I guess.

Well, you know what they say about getting old- it beats the alternative!

[Steve Manning]

Point of no return? NO returning them to the bench by yourself? Do you have a weight? :W

I'm close to that point- 118 lb for the bass modules is up there, but still doable- with 35 lb from the empty upper module, that will cross the line. I'm dreading gluing them together, and will likely put that off until I have them over at GF's just before lacquer booth time.

Not sure on the weight, I'm planing on borrowing the heavy duty scales we have at work and get a number, my guess is somewhere north of a 100 lbs. At this point I can pick them up and position them around on the dollies but I'm afraid of damaging them trying to get them on and off the bench ..... as well as potentially my back in the process. One of the joys of getting old I guess.

[JonMarsh]

Finally got back in the garage after the holidays and got a little work done. Felt good to be making some progress again even if it was filling screw holes with bondo .....

Getting the cabinets on and off the work bench is now a two person operation. Not sure what they way, but trying to get them on and off the bench by myself is out of the question.

Point of no return? NO returning them to the bench by yourself? Do you have a weight? :W

I'm close to that point- 118 lb for the bass modules is up there, but still doable- with 35 lb from the empty upper module, that will cross the line. I'm dreading gluing them together, and will likely put that off until I have them over at GF's just before lacquer booth time.

[Steve Manning]

Did manage to make some sawdust today though ...... started sizing the bubinga for the trim around the bottom of the cabinets.



The SYP is for test pieces, had some left over from building the bench. Since I'm joining the corners with 45 degree Lock Miter joint on a 12 degree angle, I figured it might be good to make a few practice runs at it first.

[Steve Manning]

Finally got back in the garage after the holidays and got a little work done. Felt good to be making some progress again even if it was filling screw holes with bondo .....

Getting the cabinets on and off the work bench is now a two person operation. Not sure what they way, but trying to get them on and off the bench by myself is out of the question.

[cjd]

If I were doing that, I'd be bolting it in place - but I'd also be giving it a bit of a recess to sit in so a little bit of warp down the road isn't an issue.

Looking amazing, and I'm sure you'll figure it out in.

[Steve Manning]

Coming along pretty well- getting close to painting?

Getting there ..... I'm hoping to get some paint on them by the end of the month. I've got to work on the bubinga trim that will rap around the sides and back before that happens and I'm still working on how to attach it to the cabinet. It's either going to be bolted through from the crossover compartment or straight gluing it. My biggest concern is have it warp later on if I bolt it and gluing it will be pain since I plan on building it and finishing it first. Trying to slide the trim in place and keep the glue where I need it will be a royal pain. I guess I'll figure it out soon.

[JonMarsh]

Coming along pretty well- getting close to painting?

[Steve Manning]

A few more ..... glued and screwed one of the side cladding's in place on each speaker .... prior to flush trimming with cabinet.





A few after trimming ....

[Steve Manning]

A little update from right before the holidays ...... Gluing the baffles in place now that the wiring is all done.





And now for the "fun" part ...... filling in the defects with bondo and sanding, getting ready for the side cladding's.

[Steve Manning]

I doubt that its really needed unless you plan on playing highly compressed techno pop at ear splitting levels- then the average power in the resistors might get them warm. But if sized correctly to begin with, that's only warm- keep in mind they can run up to 100C plus and still be OK. I wouldn't worry about it...

Cool ..... one less thing I have to build a jig for. Thanks

[JonMarsh]

I doubt that its really needed unless you plan on playing highly compressed techno pop at ear splitting levels- then the average power in the resistors might get them warm. But if sized correctly to begin with, that's only warm- keep in mind they can run up to 100C plus and still be OK. I wouldn't worry about it...

[Steve Manning]

+1 Looking very good so far. I'm getting close to the Polyurethane glue and carpet pads for the inside of the bottom cabinets myself- for wall damping. I'm also still mulling over how to handle the cable interconnects- I COULD still do it externally, and there are some pro's to that, especially if I kept the crossovers external for a while, but then I'd wind up with more plates and connectors than I'd like to see in the end. And the mid/tweeter external plate could be in the top module or the bottom module.

What I'm seeing hard to so is to spend time tweaking the crossover IF I only have one binding post external cable access. With the Ardents, I just routed wires through the bass reflect port, but in this case there is no port. And if I did the plate on the top module, I could avoid the issue of routing wires through holes in the top to bottom modules. Sheisse! It's definitely easier building a completed proven design than trying to blaze a new path... decisions, decisions.

Carry on Steve!

Your right about the proven design, it's given me the easier option of just drilling some "just big enough" holes for the wires followed up with a dab of silicon to seal things up and I'm done.

Jon, since you've gone this route yourself, any thoughts on adding "breathing slots" to the bottom x-over covers, or is it not worth the effort?

Steve

[JonMarsh]

+1 Looking very good so far. I'm getting close to the Polyurethane glue and carpet pads for the inside of the bottom cabinets myself- for wall damping. I'm also still mulling over how to handle the cable interconnects- I COULD still do it externally, and there are some pro's to that, especially if I kept the crossovers external for a while, but then I'd wind up with more plates and connectors than I'd like to see in the end. And the mid/tweeter external plate could be in the top module or the bottom module.

What I'm seeing hard to so is to spend time tweaking the crossover IF I only have one binding post external cable access. With the Ardents, I just routed wires through the bass reflect port, but in this case there is no port. And if I did the plate on the top module, I could avoid the issue of routing wires through holes in the top to bottom modules. Sheisse! It's definitely easier building a completed proven design than trying to blaze a new path... decisions, decisions.

Carry on Steve!

[Face]

I always hate that step for some reason...looking good so far though!

[Steve Manning]

Cabinet Wiring

Getting the cabinets wired up before the baffles get glued in placed ....





Not that pretty stuff that Jon is using in his cabinets, I do love how that Kimber stuff looks ...... but I think this should work ...

[gbegland]

Rewind to hijack....

Jon, those 18 Sound drivers were my mid choice for my baffles prior to the Neo10 coming out. I borrowed one from a fellow DIYer and tested on my prototype baffles. They sound very good and very dynamic. I have wondered if it has something to do with the shallow cone and large dust cap not creating a time smeared signal like deeper coned drivers.

Steve be very careful with those inserts. They are easy to strip out or overtighten and pop loose.

Greg

[Steve Manning]

No problem on the little detour, it keeps the post going until the next round of pictures ..... Here's a question to you get you back on track. Since I'm putting the x-overs in a some what confined area, I'm toying with the idea of putting some breathing slots in the bottom cover for a little cooling. Do you guys think it's worth the effort? Here's a couple of pictures of the covers ....





Here's a rough layout of the components that will be going in the area.



Here's the wiring that will do the in's and out's ....

[CraigJ]

Sorry if I wasn't clear...

Sorry, I was the one who was not clear and it was an attempt at poor humor. From may ailing memory, many years ago I thought you joked that your wife made you choose between the X1 clone or her, thus making her your ex. :W

[Hank]

We all have things from our past that should not be revisited. :roll:

[JonMarsh]

Hi Jon and sorry Steve for the continued hi jack,

Time for a little intervention;

Jon, Glad to hear that things are going very well with the :blonde: friend . But please, for the sake of the forum, don't ever mention that you'd like to build these for her (or yourself for that matter);

Been there, done that, Hmmmm, about 14 years ago... all part of the learning curve! Sorry if I wasn't clear...

Those were my previous attempt at an Uber system- you know, the sort of thing I do about every decade and a half or so... :B

Usually the experience makes me acutely aware of my various limitations, yet does something intriguing, and sets a new benchmark of some sort. that was the case for these X1 Klones. Focal TC120 tweeters, Eton 7-360's (which amazingly you can STILL buy at Madisound! they've been around forever!) and Audax 13" and 15" pro woofers; monster drivers with huge magnets and fairly high sensitivity, but xmas, not so much. Made up for it with radiating area and a 6" port, like the original X1's.

I'm rather hoping that the current Isiris project will turn out a bit better, because I REALLY don't think I want to be building another monster system when I'm 75... but who knows? Maybe that would keep me young... or when I'd be ready for my third child hood?

[CraigJ]

Hi Jon and sorry Steve for the continued hi jack,

Time for a little intervention;

Jon, Glad to hear that things are going very well with the :blonde: friend . But please, for the sake of the forum, don't ever mention that you'd like to build these for her (or yourself for that matter);

[JonMarsh]

Hmmm...don't recall seeing those in my travels - nice curve!
Corner system?

It's a way to optimize and remain compatible with her existing HT setup to replace the current mains, but improve clarity and bandwidth. And give me something to do with the RD50's. :B

yeah, she'll be getting a new subwoofer eventually (don't ask what she has now), but one step at a time... and this will leave things clear for trying out the big two channel setup in that room, too.

[Hank]

Pretty much decided THESE will be the mid woofers, and it will be a corner system, monopole line array.
Very smooth SPL response, and very low distortion.

Hmmm...don't recall seeing those in my travels - nice curve!
Corner system?

[Steve Manning]

Looking good :T Plenty of room for the x-over I see...mine is going to be a little tight.

The x-over board is roughly 10" X 16" with ~ 2.5" of height to work with when the cover is in place, so I should have plenty of room. Just trying to decide what to glue the components in with, since their hanging upside down I want to make sure they stay where I put them.

[Steve Manning]

Nice job with the brass inserts- I've used those before, and as soft as they are, it's harder than you make it look!

Thanks Jon .... The baltic birch was really nice to work with putting in the inserts. I was sweating it when it came to do the ones for the mid's, there was not a lot of material to work with since the holes where so close to the edge and mdf just seems to crumble if you mess with it too much.

[JonMarsh]

Working on the crossover compartment

Framing the crossover compartment with baltic birch plywood ..... I figured I would have less of an issue with splitting once I screwed in threaded inserts.





You can also see the crossover board that will hold the parts and the holes for feeding wiring in and out of the compartment .....

Nice job with the brass inserts- I've used those before, and as soft as they are, it's harder than you make it look!