Mini-statements *BUILD THREAD* in progress, and a question or few.

[mrdsllc]

For the most part, I've got everything built and glued except for the front baffles.

The squareness of the cabinets might be off a few hairs or ten. Any tips/tricks for getting the fronts matching nicely?

I had considered gluing down an oversized front and flush-trimming it then routing the driver cut-outs but I sorta would like to avoid that..

Any thoughts?

[john trials]

I glued both cabinets, except for the baffles (and even the 3/4" and 1/2" sections of baffle weren't glued together until they were ready to go onto the cabinet). I used two small pins per cabinet to attach the oversized baffles in place while marking and routing (short sections of bicycle spoke, actually...about 4" long, to go through both baffle pieces and into the cabinet. The ends of the pins were bent at 90 degrees for grip, so I could pull them out when necessary). The 3/4" and 1/2" baffles could be attached and detached multiple times. The assembly precision was VERY accurate. I could trace the cabinet dimensions onto the baffles, then remove them for routing (driver cutouts). Then reattach and test fit. Then remove the baffles and do the chamfer on the rear of the driver holes, etc. Then reattach and see how they looked. Once everything was perfect, I glued the 1/2" baffle to the cabinet (use the pins and everything aligns perfectly while the glue sets), routed the tunnel and outer edges flush, then glued the 3/4" baffle to the 1/2" one on the cabinet (again, use the pins) and routed its outer edge flush.

Hopefully this helps. It may not be the best method, but it worked really well for me (5 Statement speakers built).

Build thread: https://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php?t=34301

[mrdsllc]

Alignment pins seems like a good idea, but in the interest if not drilling any unnecessary holes, i'll look for another option..

Poking around my shop I found some sticky-back tape that I could use with clamps. I'm doing a test piece right now to see what my working time is and if it'll release from the MDF without ruining it.

[mrdsllc]

Ok so the sticky-back tape + clamps works. I now have 'custom fitted' pieces for the front baffle.

Next up is to rout the holes for drivers and square this thing up! Pics in a short while.

[mrdsllc]

Anyways, on with the build!





























Thoughts thus far:
You can see that ive put together the 1-1/4" MDF front baffle at first, but i didn't like the way they fit (as stated earlier, my cabinets aren't perfectly square) so I decided to scrap that in favor of a 'hardwood' that i can stain.

[mrdsllc]

only thing i accomplished tonight was cut the baffles out.



I screwed up on the first MDF substrate due to the fact that i didnt compensate for the added height vs original drawings. So my holes are off by 3/4" Easy fix. Butt-join another piece of MDF then flush-trim to fit.

[Jim Holtz]

The Mini's look great! :T

Jim

[mrdsllc]

Thanks Jim!

Small update today...



Yeah, I could have bought a PE Precision-port, but why buy when you can make? 3" ID and has a 7" OAL from the top of the stack to the bottom of the cabinet, so it should be within spec.



Mock-up



Eight Pole Neutrik Connector. I plan on running my crossovers in a separate enclosure.



Things look great already!



1/2" MDF, 3/4" Pine. Yes i could have done 3/4" MDF here, but i did not want to bother with veneering or edge banding of any sort.

[yzracer14]

Looking Great! Why an 8-pole connector? Couldn't you use a 4 pole?

[mrdsllc]

I wanted each driver group (tweeter, midrange and woofer) on its own terminal and as far as I know neutrik doesn't make a six pole connector.

[yzracer14]

Since you've already bought it, it will work with no problems. But you dont need to use 6 terminals, 4 will suffice because they can all share the ground. I'm just trying to save you some time soldering.

[mrdsllc]

so this is where im at.
finalized a design for outriggers (pucks can be swapped for spikes)



Once this is done, the speakers will be on the back burner until i can afford drivers! See ya again in a few months!

[BeerParty]

You can see that ive put together the 1-1/4" MDF front baffle at first, but i didn't like the way they fit (as stated earlier, my cabinets aren't perfectly square) so I decided to scrap that in favor of a 'hardwood' that i can stain.

Excellent so far, I used the same idea (solid wood baffle) on my AviaTrix MTMs. What are your plans for the edges?

[mrdsllc]

Excellent so far, I used the same idea (solid wood baffle) on my AviaTrix MTMs. What are your plans for the edges?

3/4" radius on the front as shown, everywhere else will get a slight chamfer.

As far as sealing the edges of the MDF, either drywall compound or bondo. Im open to ideas on this.