Matt's Statement Thread

[snmhanson]

I have decided to build a couple of Statement Monitors and a Statement 2RCC Center so I thought I would start a dedicated thread to chronical my build and get some questions answered. First off, I am making some slight changes to the cabinet designs in that I want to put a slight (6' radius) bend in the sides to blend with a sub that I've built. I am not changing the depth or the baffle width of the speakers but they are going to be a couple inches narrower in the back. I have added just a little to the height to compensate for the loss in volume due to the tapering of the speaker. I also made a couple of changes in terms of how the baffle is applied in order to make it easier to form and attach the curved edges. Also to help with the implementation of the curved sides, the top, bottom, front and back of the speaker is going to be two layers of MDF. This doubling up of MDF adds to the overall heights and depth of the speaker but does not change the internal dimensions. In any case, I am attaching my plans in hopes of getting some constructive critisism (or the all-clear) on the modifications. I am also attaching a pic of the space where they are going to be located to get any input on how well they will work in that area. Referring to that pic, they may start out on the edges of the entertainment stand but will ultimately likely end up on stands or on top of the subs (I may build another) on each side of the entertainment center. The CC may go on top of the center if it doesn't sound good in the CC opening. Thanks for any help or input and I will post pics once the build gets underway.

Matt

[snmhanson]

Just made my post and realized the pics came out sideways - sorry about that. Also, as I was posting I was thinking about the doubling up on the front and back and realized that if I am keeping the internal depth the same it is going to add about 1" in lenght to the pass-through. Is that going to be an issue? Also, while I'm at it, does the back opening of the pass-through have to be square or can it be a 5" diameter circle?

Thanks,

Matt

[john trials]

Statement Monitors are not shielded (only a problem if the TV is a tube...I can't tell from the photo). Also, isn't the curve in the CC going to make it unstable (won't the CC rock forward and backward?)?

[snmhanson]

The television is a rear projection unit so I don't think there is an issue with shielding. In any case, we are eventually going to switch to a front projector and/or wall-mounted flat screen so there won't be a tv on the stand in the future. As far as the center being unstable, I plan on putting some threaded feet on the back so that I can adjust the angle that the speaker is pointed. They were just not shown in the drawings.

Matt

[BeerParty]

Also, as I was posting I was thinking about the doubling up on the front and back and realized that if I am keeping the internal depth the same it is going to add about 1" in lenght to the pass-through. Is that going to be an issue?

The front is already doubled up (0.75" and 0.5" make the baffle 1.25" thick) - if you are going to double up the back I would suggest you use 2x0.5" MDF so the back is only 0.25" extra. Even if you use 2x0.75" you are only looking at an extra 0.75" in depth. An extra 0.75" in the pass through shouldn't be a problem, but an extra 1.5" baffle width will be. What I would suggest is that you use 3 0.25" layers on the sides to keep the baffle width the same (they will also be easier to bend).

Also, while I'm at it, does the back opening of the pass-through have to be square or can it be a 5" diameter circle?

It has been done both ways, as far as I know using a circle didn't have a measurable impact.

[snmhanson]

Thanks for the reply BeerParty. The baffle width will be the normal 10.5" wide. The thickness of the baffle may be 1/4" thicker than the plans and the height will likely be a bit taller but I'm being careful to keep the width the same. I was planning on using 3 - 1/4" on the sides and only the top/bottom and front/back will be doubled up on. The first layer on the top/bottom/front/back is for a template to attach the 1/4" material to and the second layer on each side is to cover the edged of the 1/4" material to give me a nice smooth surface to veneer to. Kind of tough to explain but it is the easiest way I can think of to build it.

Thanks nice to hear about the circle being ok. Just to clarify, the pass-through would remain square while just the opening would be a 5" circle, right? Or should the pass-through also be circle if the opening is circle?

Thanks again,

Matt

[looneybomber]

I too am working on making a curved wall center (but more curved than yours). I however am only on the picture drawing stage while finishing up a subwoofer. I'll be curious to see how you work everything out.

[snmhanson]

I too am working on making a curved wall center (but more curved than yours). I however am only on the picture drawing stage while finishing up a subwoofer. I'll be curious to see how you work everything out.

Cool. Don't hold your breath though. I am still finishing up another project (cabinets for my son's room) and I also have work, the house and the wife and kids to contend with. I hope to get started with the actual build within the next week or so but it may be an ongoing project. I would say it is extremely possible that you get yours built before me - but I hope not .

Matt

[looneybomber]

This just might be a race Baby #2 is due in a month and if I don't get it done by then, it might be a long time before it's finished. Although some of us Kansan's are working on putting together a small DIY GTG (get together) in late July so that's even more incentive.

Oh, BTW, I too am working on a Jed designed center, but it's his Dynamic 4cc.

[BeerParty]

Thanks nice to hear about the circle being ok. Just to clarify, the pass-through would remain square while just the opening would be a 5" circle, right? Or should the pass-through also be circle if the opening is circle?

In the example I saw the mid-range transmission line (pass through) was square inside the box with just the opening in the rear a 5" circle.

If you wanted to, you could make the mid-range transmission line a circle using a piece of PVC pipe. You would need to redesign the bracing in that area, adjust your internal volume, and figure out how to line the inner surface of the pipe with 1" foam. You would have to make sure the seal between the pipe and the front baffle was air tight. You would also need to make sure the intersection between the pipe and front baffle didn't interfere with mounting the mid-range and the tweeter. But if you really wanted to... :E

[snmhanson]

Thanks BeerParty. I think I'll stick with the square pass through and circle opening then.

Matt

[snmhanson]

Another question for the enlightened ones. I was initially going to make the baffles removeable so that I have the possibility of switching out drivers in the future. My other though was that getting to the crossovers if I ever have issues with them would be easier if I could just take the baffle off. However, construction and making sure everything is airtight would be much easier if I just permanantly attach the baffle. What should I do? Is there a reasonable chance that I would switch out drivers in the future? Can the crossovers be built small enough that they can fit throught he driver holes if I ever have to take them out? I like the idea of removeable baffles but I don't like the extra work it would take to make them possible.

Matt

[Jim Holtz]

Another question for the enlightened ones. I was initially going to make the baffles removeable so that I have the possibility of switching out drivers in the future. My other though was that getting to the crossovers if I ever have issues with them would be easier if I could just take the baffle off. However, construction and making sure everything is airtight would be much easier if I just permanantly attach the baffle. What should I do? Is there a reasonable chance that I would switch out drivers in the future? Can the crossovers be built small enough that they can fit throught he driver holes if I ever have to take them out? I like the idea of removeable baffles but I don't like the extra work it would take to make them possible.

Matt

Hi Matt,

The chances of you needing to remove the front baffle to switch drivers is pretty small, IMHO. If you switch drivers, you'll have to start over on the crossover as it will no longer be a Statement. If you build your crossover board narrow enough to slide through the woofer cutout and place them in the lower part of the cabinet, you're good to go and can get them out if you need to.

Jim

[snmhanson]

Thanks for the reply Jim. So I guess I will permenantly attach the baffled but see if I can make the crossovers narrow enough to fit through the woofer cutouts. My brother-in-law is going to help me with the crossovers since he is an electrician and my soldering skills are nonexistent (plus my electrical knowledge is just a step above non-existent). It will be a learning process for me.

Matt

[BeerParty]

Thanks for the reply Jim. So I guess I will permenantly attach the baffled but see if I can make the crossovers narrow enough to fit through the woofer cutouts.

If you check my thread (it's buried way back, so here is a link), you'll see pictures of the crossovers I built for my Statement Monitors, They'll be easy to find, they are in the first post :roll: . I split the crossovers between two boards (one for the mid and another for the tweeter and woofer) so they would fit through the driver hole. This should give you some ideas about what to do for your Statements.

[snmhanson]

Three months later and I finally started my build. As a reminder I am building a pair of Statement Monitors and a 2rcc center. I am adding a little personal flair by building curved sides (3 layers of 1/4" MDF), which I am going to start attaching today. I haven't decided on the finish yet but I am thinking curly or quilted maple for the main body and a contrasting hardwood baffle - maybe Bubinga. So far everything is going pretty much to plan with my biggest blunder being the mid and tweeter enclosure in the center channel. It was glued about 1/4" too far forward and the compartment is going to be ~7% smaller than specs. Hopefully that won't be too big of a deal and I'll be able to just adjust the stuffing to compensate. I am getting anxious to get them finished but I don't think I will be able to listen to them until I have the fully veneer applied and finished. Sorry about the low quality of the pics. I couldn't find any of our good cameras so these are from my phone.

[BeerParty]

Just curious, but where are you putting the binding posts?

[snmhanson]

Not sure yet but probably very near the bottom on the monitors and off to one of the sides on the 2rcc. I figured it would be one of the last things I do - after I get a good idea of where the crossovers are going to be located. With removable baffles it should be easy to do the crossover placement and binding post installation at the end of the build. I originally had terminal plates but have since ordered regular binding posts so it should just be a couple of drilled holes in each speaker. Do you see a potential issue or is it just pure curiosity?

Matt

[BeerParty]

Do you see a potential issue or is it just pure curiosity?

Mostly curious. I used terminal cups so had to plan a little more (had to get around that brace in the bottom) but binding posts should be easier.

Since you will have removable baffles, this is not as critical, but don't forget to plan where you are running the wires for the mid-range drivers. The are not 'in' the cabinet, so you have to make and seal a hole for those wires.

[snmhanson]

Updated pics of the center with all three side layers attached and one of the Monitors with the first side layer clamped in place. I still need to flush up the center and I am going to have to do some sanding on the front to make everything flush for the removable baffle. I am being much more cautious on the Monitors when putting the sides on and making sure to keep them as flush as possible with the fronts of the rest of the speaker. I will still probably need to do a little sanding though to make sure there will be no air leaks between the baffle and the rest of the speaker and I will use some sort of gasket as well to help seal it. If I was doing it again I would probably put a 1" to 2" flat section of 3/4" MDF at the front of the curve and then have the 1/4" layers of the curve butt up to it. I think these will be just fine though after a little sanding and filling. I hope to have all the sides put on by Thursday or so. I ordered some curly maple veneer and will choose a baffle material when I pick it up in a week or so.

Matt

[snmhanson]

Updated pics. Pretty much everything is glued and sanded smooth and flush (even though it may not look completely smooth). I still need to glue in some small corners pieces with hurricane nuts to fasten the removable baffles. I also need to fill the voids with Bondo, which I hope to work on tonight. After that, I am waiting on the Curly Maple veneer to come in and will pick out a front when I get the veneer. I guess I need to start thinking about the crossovers as well. Getting closer but still probably a couple of weeks before I get to listen to them. BTW, any suggestions on screw sets for all of the drivers? Since the fronts are going to be hardwood I don't think I'll need to use hurricane nuts. I hope to find screws that will just blend in with the drivers.

Thanks,

Matt

[BeerParty]

BTW, any suggestions on screw sets for all of the drivers? Since the fronts are going to be hardwood I don't think I'll need to use hurricane nuts. I hope to find screws that will just blend in with the drivers.

I plan to use black screws from Parts Express on my AviaTrix so they will blend in, that is one option. I remember from my Statement Monitor build that I had to use bigger screws for the woofers, so you may need to try out a couple different sizes for them.

[snmhanson]

Here is another shot of the trio. I did the Bondo thing today and installed the corner braces for fastening the baffle. I used very little Bondo as all I was doing was filling in a few areas that didn't get fully clamped when glued.

Thanks for the tips on the screws BeerParty.

BTW, any suggestions on where to mount the crossovers? I am going to make them small enough to fit through the driver cutouts just in case I eventually decide to permanently attach the baffles. I can't put the on any of the side walls because they are curved. I basically have three options: Horizontally oriented on the bottom, vertically oriented and attached to the shelf support via velcro, or on the bottom of the tunnel.

[BeerParty]

BTW, any suggestions on where to mount the crossovers? I am going to make them small enough to fit through the driver cutouts just in case I eventually decide to permanently attach the baffles. I can't put the on any of the side walls because they are curved. I basically have three options: Horizontally oriented on the bottom, vertically oriented and attached to the shelf support via velcro, or on the bottom of the tunnel.

You can still attach them to the sides of your cabinet, just use Velcro on the four corners of the boards. You don't need a lot of surface area, that Velcro is pretty strong stuff. Install the foam on the bottom, and then plan the location of the crossovers so the boards rest on top of the foam in the bottom of the cabinet. That way the foam will hold them up and the Velcro only has to keep them from tipping over.

If you are not comfortable with that, I would plan to put them them on the very bottom of the cabinet.

[FroDaddy]

For the 2rcc, I placed the single xover board behind the mid enclosure. Maybe if that didn't work, perhaps two separate boards could be placed behind the woofers?

Your enclosure is different than mine, so you might have to design the crossover to fit the board size. I had to do this with my Mini Statement surrounds due to a small, resized enclosure. I used cardboard mock-ups to test xover board sizes.

[LSV8]

BTW, any suggestions on screw sets for all of the drivers? Since the fronts are going to be hardwood I don't think I'll need to use hurricane nuts. I hope to find screws that will just blend in with the drivers.

Thanks,

Matt

I was originally looking for a black chrome screw to do the job, or even a finish like the screws in the Fountek Ribbon. Instead, I accidentally came accross something even better while getting brass screws at Home Depot.

They are actually stainless sheet metal screws, but work great as wood screws! They are "Crown Bolt" brand. I used the #8x3/4" size, part number 34542, 50 piece box.

These screws match the color of the 1337 perfectly, and are an almost identical finish to the Fountek screws.

I will post some pictures in a few.

[LSV8]

Okay, here's the photos. Sorry for the poor lighting, theater room doesn't get too bright!

Images not available

[Solid7]

I can almost see it. Could you take one more, just a little closer? :B

[LSV8]

I can almost see it. Could you take one more, just a little closer? :B

lol. I can try... but I might have to drill a pilot hole in the lens first! :

[snmhanson]

Thanks - they look nice. I'll look em up next time I am at HD. They worked well for all of the drivers, right (size-wise and color-wise)?

Matt

[LSV8]

Thanks - they look nice. I'll look em up next time I am at HD. They worked well for all of the drivers, right (size-wise and color-wise)?

Matt

Size, yes. The 1337s have the smallest holes, the RS225s next, and the NeoCd3.0 the largest holes. #8 screws were a very good fit all around.

Color, I would say is more of an opinion. Some like flashy silver screws, some like black... I think this is a great compromise of both and that the screws blend in well.

[snmhanson]

Things have slowed in my build due to other obligations. I have managed to put the veneer on though (and I just cemented down some edges that didn't adhere all that well). I also just made some 1/4" MDF templates for the baffle so that I can always make sure to get the screw holes in the right place if/when I make new baffles. Now I just need to find somewhere safe to keep the templates.

I am debating how I want to finish the curly maple. I could just put a clear finish over it and not stain it or I could go with a light colored stain. Any suggestions? For the baffle I ended up with some Jatoba since everything else was either not available in 1-1/4" or very expensive. The Jatoba is twisting a bit while sitting in the garage and I am not sure I'll be able to tighten the baffle down enough to flatten it out without ripping out the T-nuts or corner braces. I may end up going with a black MDF baffle in the future, or possibly some other type of wood if I can find anything. Possibly granite or other solid material as well. Anyway, here are some pics. What say yee, stain or no stain?

[BeerParty]

I am debating how I want to finish the curly maple. I could just put a clear finish over it and not stain it or I could go with a light colored stain. Any suggestions?

Got any scrap pieces left over? You could try staining a few pieces of scrap to see what you like better, that is what I did with my maple veneer before finishing my first set of speakers. General Finishes used to sell a sample pack which had a small sample of their different stains for just this situation, but I can't find an online site that has it anymore.

[snmhanson]

Got any scrap pieces left over? You could try staining a few pieces of scrap to see what you like better, that is what I did with my maple veneer before finishing my first set of speakers. General Finishes used to sell a sample pack which had a small sample of their different stains for just this situation, but I can't find an online site that has it anymore.

I do have a bit of scrap veneer left over and I have quite a few different stains left over from various projects. I suppose I'll just run some samples. I was just seeing if there was a general consensus as to what people preferred.

I also have yet another question. I am going to use some type of t-nuts (size 10-24) to attach the baffles but I'm not sure what to use. I know there are several varieties but basically I think it comes down to the regular pronged versions or the Hurricane versions. Does one hold in MDF better than the other? I am not going to be able to hammer them into place and will have to carefully pull them into place as I screw the bolts in. I have enough pronged t-nuts but I would have to order Hurricane bolts if they end up being the way to go. Is there any issue with using the pronged t-nuts initially and if they strip out replacing them with the Hurricane versions?

Thanks,

Matt

[Not2Evil]

I would think that a stripped hurricane nut could be recouped with a pronged T-nut, not the other way around. A little well placed epoxy avoids problems with either as long as they are inserted straight.

Do yourself one HUGE favor. Run a screw through EVERY T-nut before installing. I've had too many with burrs that hang up and strip the MDF. You can clean up the nut with a tap, or chuck it and go to the next one.

One additional hint. If something should go wrong after the epoxy, insert a screw as far as it will go. Take the hottest soldering iron tip you have, heat the screw, and with a little patience the heat will transfer to the nut and release the epoxy.

Good luck

[peepaj]

I did my overnight sensations using the method found here.
thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-32-pop-goes-the-maple/
This was the first time I tried this and I think they came out pretty good.
Although I used a 1-inch thick piece of curly maple for the front baffles, I would think it would work for veneer. Anyway good luck with the build.

[snmhanson]

I did my overnight sensations using the method found here.
thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-32-pop-goes-the-maple/
This was the first time I tried this and I think they came out pretty good.
Although I used a 1-inch thick piece of curly maple for the front baffles, I would think it would work for veneer. Anyway good luck with the build.

Looks good. As I have discovered, the baffles are pretty substantial pieces of wood. I have them attached now, although I still have to flush trim them and then route in the curved edges. I am hoping they look a bit more svelte once I get that done and the drivers installed. It is nice having the T-Nuts in there for the removable baffle concept, but they are kind of a pain to use. I don't think I'll be taking the baffle off and on any more than necessary. Hopefully these pics come in ok. I had to use a generic photo processing tool as my main computer is down.

edit: Looks like they came in very small. I will try to update once I get my desktop working again.

[snmhanson]

I'm getting close. I just routed all of the driver holes in the baffles and the drivers all seem to fit. I had one small section where a little bit of wood ripped out while routing the exterior circle for one of the RS180s but otherwise everything seems to look good. I'll post pics a little later once I get a few more things finished up. I think all I have left is the crossover and wiring and the finish staining and coating. Maybe a few other odds and ends that will come up. I'm starting to get excited.

In the meantime, I have a couple of questions concerning the baffles. First, I did a 1/2" round over on the inside of the mids and woofers instead of a chamfer. Will the round over be OK or should I break out the chamfer bit? Second, any advice in making the notches for the Fountek tweaters? How much needs to be taken off? The little arches at the top and bottom of the driver box are just hitting the edges of the cutout by probably less than 1/8" on each side. Is it just a small notch at the top and bottom to allow for the arches or should I take more off?

Thanks,

Matt

[Jim Holtz]

I'm getting close. I just routed all of the driver holes in the baffles and the drivers all seem to fit. I had one small section where a little bit of wood ripped out while routing the exterior circle for one of the RS180s but otherwise everything seems to look good. I'll post pics a little later once I get a few more things finished up. I think all I have left is the crossover and wiring and the finish staining and coating. Maybe a few other odds and ends that will come up. I'm starting to get excited.

In the meantime, I have a couple of questions concerning the baffles. First, I did a 1/2" round over on the inside of the mids and woofers instead of a chamfer. Will the round over be OK or should I break out the chamfer bit? Second, any advice in making the notches for the Fountek tweaters? How much needs to be taken off? The little arches at the top and bottom of the driver box are just hitting the edges of the cutout by probably less than 1/8" on each side. Is it just a small notch at the top and bottom to allow for the arches or should I take more off?

Thanks,

Matt

Hi Matt,

1/2" roundover just really isn't enough for the mids. I'd suggest you scallop them some or hit it with a 3/4" round over bit.

The ribbons can be fitted by using a rasp to make room. That's about the easiest way at this point.

Jim

[snmhanson]

Hi Matt,

1/2" roundover just really isn't enough for the mids. I'd suggest you scallop them some or hit it with a 3/4" round over bit.

The ribbons can be fitted by using a rasp to make room. That's about the easiest way at this point.

Jim

Thanks for the reply. I don't have a 3/4" bit or even a router that could really handle one. I have seen the scalloped cutouts on some of the build threads but I am not sure how it is done. I tried to do a search but couldn't really find anything on it. I always thought it was a method of selective routing to avoid routing the areas where T-bolts were going to be located but it sounds like there is more to it than that. If it matters, my fronts aren't attached so I am able to get to the back of them with a router no problem. Can anyone explain scalloping to me?

I'll go dig out a rasp for the tweaters. Shouldn't take too long as they are barely too big to fit.

Thanks,

Matt

[Jim Holtz]

Thanks for the reply. I don't have a 3/4" bit or even a router that could really handle one. I have seen the scalloped cutouts on some of the build threads but I am not sure how it is done. I tried to do a search but couldn't really find anything on it. I always thought it was a method of selective routing to avoid routing the areas where T-bolts were going to be located but it sounds like there is more to it than that. If it matters, my fronts aren't attached so I am able to get to the back of them with a router no problem. Can anyone explain scalloping to me?

I'll go dig out a rasp for the tweaters. Shouldn't take too long as they are barely too big to fit.

Thanks,

Matt

Hi Matt,

The way I scallop isn't very technical. I have a very cheap 45 degree bit that I picked up at Home Depot or Lowes that I use. I do exactly what you just indicated. I simply remove material except where the screws attach to open up the back so the driver can breathe. That's it...

Jim

[snmhanson]

Thanks for the tips. Since my baffles are hardwood and not MDF I am using wood screws to attach the drivers. The screws are only 3/4" and don't go all the way through the baffle so I am pretty sure I can just run a 45 degree bit all the way around and not really worry about scalloping per say. Even if the screws do go through all they would do is poke out the back of the baffle. Hopefully I am on the right track here.

Also, as far as using a rasp to make room for the Founteks, I am thinking that it could be very time consuming with hardwood baffles. I'll still try a rasp but if that doesn't work right I will just use a router and carefully cut away material until the tweeters fit. I guess it doesn't have to be pretty as long as the drivers fit.

I am adding some new pics as well. The first is the front and back of the Monitor baffles. Next is the 2RCC with the blank baffle attached. Finally, all three with the baffles attached. The removable baffles are working out very slick so far. We'll see if we get much movement in the wood. I also am liking the way the Jatoba is turning out. I was a little nervous at first but I am now thinking (hoping) with the right stain on the maple everything will look great.

Matt

[peepaj]

Looking really good Matt.

[snmhanson]

Looking really good Matt.

Thanks! It's nice to see the light at the end of the tunnel, although I've still got a little ways to go. There were times when I was pretty nervous about how things were going to turn out but as I progress everything seems to be falling into place pretty well. One thing I want to point out that may not be obvious in the pics is that the bolt holes to fasten the baffles on are sized for these grill guides from parts express: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=260-367. Not sure if I will use a grill or not (probably will due to having small children) but I think it is pretty trick how it turned out.

I am struggling with a finish for the speakers. The baffles are just going to get an oil-based urethane finish and I think that will look good. The Jatoba is supposed to darken over time so I think they will just get better. For the maple, my wife thinks I should go with a light cherry color. I initially wanted them clear but I did a test with the cherry and it does seem to add some character. I just don't want it to get too close in color to the baffles. I'm really starting to get impatient and just want to get these done. Need to stay disciplined and take my time, otherwise I will end up with great speakers with an ugly finish.

Matt

PS - I'll also add that once I got the driver cutouts done, the baffles were much easier to attach since I could reach in and "guide" the T-Nuts so that the bolts went in straight.

[peepaj]

Matt a couple things; try taking your test piece and sand it out with 220 (give it a good sanding don't be shy). This should take out some of the cherry color but leaves the grain a little darker, then a coat of urethane and see if you like the affect. As you probably already know urethane will darken wood a little bit. Second if you haven't already listened to them, finish first - otherwise it might be next year before the finish gets applied. (a little humor).
Light at the end of the tunnel and great sounding music. What could be better?
Jeff