I can has Statements: Another Statement LCR build

[tomdro]

Since Madisound was out of stock, I called Zalytron yesterday to order the founteks. Elliot's brother had no knowledge of the founteks and referred me to Madisound.

[jyqureshi]

Hello all,

What is this "felt" they all talk about? See here

[jyqureshi]

I just bought a router kit from home depot for $100: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000REMAJI

Any thoughts on this?

[BeerParty]

I just bought a router kit from home depot for $100: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000REMAJI

Any thoughts on this?

Good score...

Now you just need to invest in some router bits.

[jyqureshi]

Another question:

What type, size, length of screws and T-nuts I need to install the drivers in the enclosure?

1. barbed t-nuts
2. hurricane nuts

Tweeters: ?
Mids: ?
Woofs: ?

Thanks in advance.

[Face]

http://www.madisound.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=404_18_393

[tomdro]

I just ordered the Founteks from Madisound. They are back in stock.

[jyqureshi]

great, mine are shipping from meniscusaudio tomorrow

[Blazin_Jason]

Use those barbed nuts 8-32 with some gorilla glue to hold them in. Length of screw would depend on how thick your baffle is and the depth of the nut. I did 1.25" baffle on my speakers and the nuts are countersunk a bit and using 1" screws.

[jyqureshi]

I have 1.25" baffles for the statements, so 8-32 should work for me too.

[BeerParty]

Use those barbed nuts 8-32 with some gorilla glue to hold them in. Length of screw would depend on how thick your baffle is and the depth of the nut. I did 1.25" baffle on my speakers and the nuts are countersunk a bit and using 1" screws.

I used #8-32 machine screws on the tweeters and mids, but the #10-24 fit better in the woofers (RS180-4 Daytons - I am building the Statement Monitors).

[JonP]

Good morning!

So, the driver is the same just some modest upgrades. I might also add that I'm impressed with how responsive Tang Band is to end users like myself. This is the 2nd time I've contacted them with questions and received very prompt answers.

Jim

Are all these changes since the other change where they did something to the basket (if I remember right)? As I recall, it wasn't much difference to the FR, improved a bit, and the distortion profile got a bit better. T/S didn't change enough to affect earlier crossovers... Did that change have a letter difference?

[Jim Holtz]

Are all these changes since the other change where they did something to the basket (if I remember right)? As I recall, it wasn't much difference to the FR, improved a bit, and the distortion profile got a bit better. T/S didn't change enough to affect earlier crossovers... Did that change have a letter difference?

Hi Jon,

I'm not sure there were any basket changes. I think the differences between the S and SA versions were just certifications. Here is the message that I received the other day:

1. W4-1337S --- Non- Rohs

2 .W4-1337SA --- To meet environment requirement, from 2007 July 1, all products produced in China need to use Rohs version components which is to meet Rohs compliance, therefore, we had a big change for all products number to seperate two category items, non-Rohs and Rohs. From outlook, they are exactly same.

3. W4-1337SD --- refer attached photo, you could find the terminal we change to golden color and with different design, which is to improve the outlook of driver, make it more high end, it won't affect the performance.

Above changes won't affect the performance.

It does not indicate a basket change but it's possible. I think Jed's measurements show that both the S and SA versions are almost identical and probably with in manufacturing tolerances. I am speculating on that however.

Jim

[jyqureshi]

OK guys,

I got all my parts now, and weather looks great for next few days so I can get back on my center build, hopefully I can at least have the enclosure ready by end of this weekend. Then comes the rain again and I'm planning to assemble the crossovers during that time.

How powerful soldering iron should I get?
I saw this rated at 75W at homedepot for about $20, will that be enough?

This also looks good.

TYIA!

[Curt C]

How powerful soldering iron should I get?
TYIA!

More than 30 watts will be overkill. I bought one of these when my 40 year old weller finally died. It's not professional quality, but its performance is quite acceptable. A decent price for an adjustable iron.

http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-Soldering-Hobbyist-Yourselfer/dp/B000AS28UC

C

[PoorboyMike]

I have the 40w Weller from HD and it works OK. The next unit I purchase will be adjustable though, because sometimes I just don't have enough heat for the big stuff. Plus, I like the holder and sponge dealio that the nicer soldering stations have. 8)

[Face]

Here's what I use, it works great on everything, even binding posts.

http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WES51-Analog-Soldering-Station/dp/B000BRC2XU/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1239920151&sr=8-1

[Jim Holtz]

Here's the soldering station I have. You can't beat it for the price.

Jim

[jyqureshi]

A lesson learned

Thanks guys, you're always there to help:T

Just a quick update, a lesson learned:

When trying to make square cuts, never trust the piece to be square or you'll end up with lots of parallelograms :roll: that are not squared, always make sure you start with one corner squared on the piece.

It took me a week and lots of MDF pieces to realize that the fence can only make parallel cuts.

[evilskillit]

Yeah I'm still trying to figure out how to get really square boxes myself. I figure some important things to have a some 90 degree corner clamps, a tub of bondo and a lot of sand paper. ops:

[jyqureshi]

I have four corner clamps and they are almost useless because the cut pieces are not square, you really have to make sure that the pieces you cut with your saw are 90 degree square at each corner, only then these corner clamps can be useful.

[savage25xtreme]

a miter saw or radial arm saw helps a lot with this problem.... good tools save time and money in the long run :T

[evilskillit]

Yeah, good tools are the most expensive part of DIY. I'm working on getting those but I want to also do stuff in the mean time. If only they would let me operate the panel saw at the Home Depot :twisted: But they always run me off when I try to use it off the clock and you're not allowed to cut your own lumber when you are on the clock

[savage25xtreme]

I have had HD rip sheets for me and the cut was straight but was not perpendicular to the face had to recut everything once I got home

[BobEllis]

Thanks guys, you're always there to help:T

Just a quick update, a lesson learned:

When trying to make square cuts, never trust the piece to be square or you'll end up with lots of parallelograms :roll: that are not squared, always make sure you start with one corner squared on the piece.

It took me a week and lots of MDF pieces to realize that the fence can only make parallel cuts.

That's why they invented Bondo :rofl:

[evilskillit]

Hrm, the saw at your Home Depot must be screwed up. The saw at the Home Depot where I work part time for spare cash works great as long as you make vertical cuts. If you try to make horizontal cuts it gets a bit odd. Usually the guy running the saw doesn't give a crap and HD doesn't guarantee their cuts to be more accurate than 1/8 of an inch or something like that so what do they care. But if you make vertical cuts only and look through the dust vacuum tube to line the blade up perfectly with your cut marker the cuts should be perfect every time.

[DeathMonk]

I have had HD rip sheets for me and the cut was straight but was not perpendicular to the face had to recut everything once I got home

I always have them rip the sheets with an extra inch for this reason. It's nice to have the sheets in more manageable pieces for my table saw.

[jyqureshi]

Router Experience

So yesterday I tried my Freud router the first time and it wasn't a good experience, the plunge was not smooth at all, it would stop in the middle and when I put more pressure on it, it would drop hard on the MDF.

Another problem with it was the measuring pin, it was too tight to budge even after loosening the the screw that held it.

Documentation was horrible, it did not provide anything on how to use the measuring pin, so today I returned the router to home depot. :x

So I ask you experienced DIYers, which router should I get?

This Hitachi seems to have really good reviews, too bad it's not in stock with amazon.

[jeffc]

I use this guy to square up the first piece then good to go with the table saw. Not that this project mattered if it was square square but really does make nice cuts and bevels

long track



Short track

[jyqureshi]

Thanks for the pics Jeff, I think I will need something like that in the future, I was able to get the pieces square using the miter grip on my new Ridgid heavy duty portable table saw, so I got my center channels box completed except the baffle and back cover, which brings the router question again.

When suggesting a model please remember I have two jasper jigs, so I will need a router that takes these jigs easily, with Freud I was only able to use the jig with having the base plate in place.

[Jim Holtz]

I also started with a Freud and quickly found the same issues you listed. It's a real power house but not a good plunge router.

I questioned the experienced cabinet builders and they told me, if I was only going to have one router, buy a Dewalt 621, which I did. It not only has a a butter smooth plunge, it has a superior dust collection system that is worth the price alone.

It's one of those tools you'll never regret buying.

HTH

Jim

[jeffc]

one more for the DeWalt 621!

[Gusta]

DeWalt 621

Since you mentioned it, I have some questions on this unit (I haven't used it yet; or ANY router for that matter!).

It mentions in the instruction booklet to remove the plastic dust collector aid before plunging, and then goes on to say that it is only meant for dust collection purposes. Why even put it on there if you can't plunge through it?

It must be my newbieness that's causing me to miss something....

[savage25xtreme]

I recently got the KM12VC Hitachi and LOVE IT... good plunge, good fixed base, nice case, everything you need... the soft start is really nice. with most of the stuff I did on my little BAMTMs I had a hard enough time keeping the darn cord out of the way....so I am glad I didn't have to fight a 2 inch vacuum hose... but that's just me. go to the drive way... make a big mess then clean it up :T

EDIT: when I got the Hitachi it was only in the 130s shipped... IIRC at its current price of $169 I would have gotten either the Ridgid or Dewalt for 20 dollars more or so

[jyqureshi]

I guess I'm going with the Dewalt then. It has been recommended many times in HTGuide and AVSForums.

So this DeWalt DW621K shouldn't be much different than DeWalt DW621

Thanks!

[Jim Holtz]

I guess I'm going with the Dewalt then. It has been recommended many times in HTGuide and AVSForums.

So this DeWalt DW621K shouldn't be much different than DeWalt DW621

Thanks!

Yep, that's the one.

Jim

[jyqureshi]

Great, now moving on.

I was watching HGTV or DIY network the other day, and I saw them resurfacing old appliances with stainless steel sheets, I was wondering how the cabinets will look if the baffle is stainless steel with black sides?

I have ordered some sample sheets to see how the drivers will look on them.

Anyone tried anything like this before?

J

[BeerParty]

Great, now moving on.

I was watching HGTV or DIY network the other day, and I saw them resurfacing old appliances with stainless steel sheets, I was wondering how the cabinets will look if the baffle is stainless steel with black sides?

I have ordered some sample sheets to see how the drivers will look on them.

Anyone tried anything like this before?

J

I think that a stainless steel baffle with black sides would be a very cool looking speaker. If it wouldn't clash with my current space I would have tried it.

If you don't have a source for it yet, I have seen the stainless steel at Decotone Surfaces. I have never used the site, but FroDaddy used them for some piano black veneer for his Statement build. A word of caution - you can't bend this stuff like you can with the wood veneer, you have to use in flat.

[jyqureshi]

I was thinking of using the same black "Formica" FroDaddy used on the sides and metallic on the baffle.

Or use copper on the baffle and veneer the sides with some darker red oak / cherry finish.

Not sure how I will finish the side corners and the square corners on the front though.

I'm just thinking of different finish ideas at this moment, because I'm still far behind due to some early setbacks, bad MDF cuts, bad router, I bet most of the mistakes were because of my newbieness.

[deewan]

I agree that a stainless steel or even a brushed nickel baffle with black sides would look very good. My current Paradigm speakers have a similar color scheme. I would use that scheme on my build but since I plan on putting my Statements behind an AT screen, I need the baffles to be as dark and matte finished as possible. Even been searching and searching for some good looking tower speakers looks as inspiration.

[Curt C]

I agree that a stainless steel or even a brushed nickel baffle with black sides would look very good. My current Paradigm speakers have a similar color scheme. I would use that scheme on my build but since I plan on putting my Statements behind an AT screen, I need the baffles to be as dark and matte finished as possible. Even been searching and searching for some good looking tower speakers looks as inspiration.

You may want to kill the reflections off of your drivers too... As I recall, Todd made a 'sock' to go over his MiniStatements. Perhaps he will post with some details.

C

[jyqureshi]

Metallic Baffle

Here is a concept:

[deewan]

Metallic Baffle

Here is a concept:

Looking good! If you could come close to matching the front baffle with the Tang Band driver, that would really look sharp.

[jyqureshi]

Hello guys,

I want to use T-Nuts to install the drivers, but not sure which size will be the best for the drivers used in Statement center, can anyone help?

Thanks

[mikela]

jyqureshi,

I found this http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=29922 to be useful. Here is how I used them http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=29968 . I used McMaster-Carr P/Ns 90598A011 and 90598A041.

Mike