Clearwave Dynamic 4T build.

[Hdale85]

OK, well magically the camera worked for like 30 seconds to get these pictures off of it.

[Jed]

Looking good. How do you plan on getting the mid chamber opening chamfered or recessed on the inside of the cabinet to allow better airflow around the cone? Or did you do that already before you glued on the second portion of the front baffle like I show in my build.

[Hdale85]

Reverse chamfer router bit. Going to look for one probably tomorrow.

[Jed]

Reverse chamfer router bit. Going to look for one probably tomorrow.

If you find a decent sized one let me know where. I haven't had much luck with locating one of those.

[Hdale85]

Yeah I figure I may have to order one. How big of one were you looking for? I figure 3/4" or so should be decent?

[---k---]

You might want to try just a wood rasp (a courser metal file). You can pick a cheep one up at your fav. home store for $10. I used one to open up my openings even more after the chamfer. It is a little more work than a router, but not much at all. You can make quick work of MDF with one and get whatever profile you want.

[DeathMonk]

I will agree with that.. A rasp makes quick work of MDF.

[Ray Collins]

You can also use a saber saw with the blade/shoe set at a 45* angle.

Ray

[Hdale85]

Well I'm a bit worried with the jig saw that I have as it seems to mess up the surface of the wood a bit. I did pick up a rasp though as it was only 7 bucks. Unfortunately noone locally has the collet for this dewalt. So I have to order it which means it's pretty much impossible for me to finish these this week.

[Ray Collins]

You should have a Black and Decker repair depot in the city and they will have the collet. They own DeWalt among other brands.

If the problem with your saber saw damaging the wood is related to the blade try a finer tooth; if it is the shoe doing the damage face the hole with masking tape.

Hate to see your pace slacken...

Ray

[Hdale85]

Hmm not sure about a B&D repair depot? I found it online for 13.99 guessing locally it would be 30 bucks. It does have a 1/2" collet on it but I need the 1/4" as all the bits I have are 1/4" and a 1/4" spiral upcut with 1/2" shank would be rather spensive.

[Hdale85]

Well I called the local parts center and they don't have it in stock said it would take a week to ten days. So that won't work blah.

[Ray Collins]

Oh well....

[Hdale85]

Yeah I just ordered one was like 25 bucks shipped.

[Hdale85]

So I think I'm gonna go for the blue. Wkhanna is going to help me make some samples to see what I need to do to finish them in the color I want. I'm probably not going to go for a crazy high gloss finish but something somewhat glossy...I guess a semi gloss. Maybe later on when I feel like spending hours and hours on the finish I will add some more coats and break out the polishing compound.

[Hdale85]

Anyone know a reasonable place to get hex head screws from and threaded inserts? I can't seem to find a site that has both? Kind of weird. I figured I'd use 8-32 screws. What size did you end up using Jed?

[Jed]

I used #8 screws, but they are a little small on the Daytons.

[Hdale85]

What is it smaller number is bigger? Or bigger numbers are bigger? I can't remember... Either way do you think the bigger screws would work ok for the mids and tweeters? They all seem like they would take roughly the same size screw?

[Hdale85]

Well I found that Grainger has the inserts screws and the insert tool. Total would be like 61 bucks for all of it though.... not sure I want to spend that much... Maybe I should just get the hex head screws from madisound and do pilot holes and hope for the best. Unfortunately a pair of these require about 74 screws for the drivers. So then 74 threaded inserts as well. Adds up quickly

[Hdale85]

So yeah I just ended up ordering the screws from madisound as it was much cheaper. Still get the hex head look just have to be careful . I was thinking about using some wood glue or something else that may be harder but won't stick to metal to put in the hole with the screw so that when I pull out the screws there would be threads left behind and it would be less likely to strip. I'm not sure how this could be accomplished though.

[Jed]

I just bought a package of 100 #8 screws from PE for a couple bucks. I used them on all the drivers. #6 is a step smaller.

[Hdale85]

Yeah I ordered the hex heads cause I like the look But I got #10 for the woofers and #8 for the rest.

[Hdale85]

I was wondering if anyone would be able to help me here. Basically I put the bondo on the edges and try and sand it down to a good corner and then part of it falls off. Most of it is relatively good but my question is. Will this transfer to the veneer so that its visible?

[Hdale85]

Ok well I got some new pictures here...






You know I think the bamboo is probably more difficult to work with then other veneers. For some reason these little strings keep coming off and it's rather hard to cut going against the grain with a razor. The first spot turned out ....ok I suppose. It's on there real good no air bubbles or anything the edges are a bit iffy? Maybe when the sides are on it will look better though? Also I don't have enough veneer to do the backs unless I do it in 2 pieces? Sooooo I could paint them black? Or do them in 2 pieces. I'm not really sure that I want to do it in 2 pieces though but I really don't want to paint them black either... I could leave them until I order more veneer for my other speakers though.

[Hdale85]

Veneer applied

[Johnloudb]

Looking really good there! I think painting the back black would look cool. I think it would kind of break up the monotony ... not that the veneer doesn't look nice, which it obviously does. Paint is kind of pain to get it looking nice, but you're probably a much better painter than me though.

Don't let me talk into anything.

[Hdale85]

Well I was thinking and if I do the deep blue stain the black probably wont stand out so much. I'm hoping these little places where the bamboo decided to split a little wider on the sides wont stand out so much either.

[Hdale85]

Oh but I thought of a way to do the back in 2 pieces that wont look bad. The binding post plate goes across the entire back so if I can make the seam there you won't see it.

[Hdale85]

Different angles of the cabinet with the veneer applied:

[DeathMonk]

Damn... Those things are going to look NICE.

[GregLett]

Damn... Those things are going to look NICE.

yep. :T

[Hdale85]

Thanks BUT I think next time I decide to build speakers I'll stay away from bamboo. I still have to do the top and bottom on that one. I need to put together the other tower still haha. I'm still pretty happy. Hopefully with some sealer and what not after finishing they will look awesome.

[Ray Collins]

NIce job...you must have been praying while you were on your knees veneering...hehe...

Ray

[Hdale85]

Praying it would come out right...which it sort of did. Don't get me wrong though I'll be just happy to get these done and able to listen to them.

[Dennis H]

Those look nice, Doug. :T

[Hdale85]

Well I received the collet for the router. I also finished up the one cabinets veneer. Now the problem is it's raining all weekend and is supposed to snow all the way until next Saturday. I may have to get a tarp or something and hang it up out side so that I can use the router under it.

[Hdale85]

Well I finally got one side on the second cabinet. I'm going to let it sit for a few hours and then start working on the second side. Hopefully tomorrow or Tuesday depending on weather I can bondo it up and get ready for the veneer.

[dian1511]

They look great! For the curved sides, are the slits on the outside or inside? I thought I read in a previous post of yours that the slits were on the outside and if someone wanted to they could fill them in with something. But, your curves look really smooth. Do the slits leave the curves smooth or can you see the intervals made by the slits?

Darren

[Hdale85]

I used multiple layers of 1/8" hardboard for mine. I have 4 layers because originally I designed them to work with kerf cut MDF but that didn't work out and unfortunately all I could get in was 4 layers. So the sides are only 1/2" thick but regardless its rather solid.

[dian1511]

I see how you clamped the curved sides. How did you apply the 4 layers of hardboard? Did you clamp all 4 layers at once with yellow glue in between, not much open time. This would also mean having to cut the 4 layers exactly to size given your prebuilt frame?

[Hdale85]

Well the layers were cut to ~about the right size. After that I filled in the edges with bondo. The first side I did, I did 2 sheets at a time. The second side I did all 4. On the second cabinet I've done all 4 at once again. I just lay them in place and figure out where they should be and then start spreading glue on each sheet and stacking the next sheet on top. Then I use 2 boards the length of them and use the straps. The boards help put the pressure on the outsides where they need to bend more.

[Hdale85]

Well side 2 on the second cabinet is gluing up now. I figure I'll probably have these done sometime later this week minus stain and clear coat.

[Finleyville]

After all of this is done I would love to have a listen Doug. I have been eyeing these up ever since our last discusion. Keep up the fantastic work!

[Hdale85]

Well you know I'd be more then happy to have you over Michael. All the dust around I have a lot of cleaning to do when they are done haha.

[Hdale85]

Well I got a bit of an update here. It's snowing outside so I can't do Bondo work on the second cabinet unfortunately. I got some holes cut in the first one though. I was originally worried about the router messing up the veneer but it actually works quite good. PE online said to cut the holes for my ports 2 and 11/16th". So stupid me I didn't do a test piece and it ended up being to big. So the first port I have to glue in some how and the other ports I cut them 2 5/8" so it was perfect. I think this looks sexy as hell! I like the way this turned out a lot.