Dominic's Statements Build

[Gusta]

Finally got started on this, even if it was just a little.

This version will have a rear port and the crossover will be in the base, which will be accessible/removable via a bottom panel. I plan to veneer these using Waterfall Bubinga or perhaps Mottled Makore, even though I don't have any experience veneering. :E I haven't decided what approach to use yet; contact cement or the iron method (I'm fearful of cracks though). I'm also going to make some grilles for these (when listening casually).

[greyhound]

Use the iron on method. I veneered my statements, one piece, sides and front. When the contact cement method failed, I bought 2 more sheets and a gallon of the iron on glue. Two good coats on each surface, let dry, then run the iron, very forgiving.

[Gusta]

Use the iron on method. I veneered my statements, one piece, sides and front. When the contact cement method failed, I bought 2 more sheets and a gallon of the iron on glue. Two good coats on each surface, let dry, then run the iron, very forgiving.

Although most seem to prefer the iron-on method, I remember hearing about cracking over time and am wondering what causes this. Iron too hot? Too long over certain areas?

[Gusta]

Inductors

My crossovers are going to be on single boards in the bases of my statements. Do the inductors look too close?

[Gusta]

Base Height

In reference to the post above, I just measured the crossover board thickness and the 100 uF cap, and it looks like I'm going to have to make the bases a little higher.

[Jim Holtz]

Any more pictures? I'm curious how you're getting along with your build.

Jim

[Gusta]

Any more pictures? I'm curious how you're getting along with your build.

Jim

Hi Jim,

I'm still working on cutting all of the pieces (taking forever), so nothing really worth taking shots of, but I'll definitely upload some when the time comes.

The next pics will probably be the finished crossovers, as I'm working on those right now.

Dominic

[1Michael]

The inductors should be at least 20 centimeters apart :T

[David_D]

Inductor placement

[Gusta]

DeWalt 621

I need kick it up a gear now since my garage will soon turn into an oven (Arizona). I hope the temperatures don't affect the gluing process too much.

I finally got all of the pieces cut and I finished gluing the midrange enclosures. Now I need to glue the baffles and start the routing process, but this will be my first time using a router 8O (DW621), and have some questions.

1. For small pieces, how do you guys hold them down, if at all, when routing since it seems the clamps will get in the way? For example, internal braces. Has anyone used the Jasper jig (I have this) for small pieces like this?

2. On the 621, do you leave the plastic piece on when plunging, or do you put it back on after plunging?? I'm referring to the dust collector aid. The instructions specify not have it on when plunging, but that seems non-beneficial.

3. How often do you recommend spraying lubricant on the bits between cuts, if at all?

4. I've got a bunch of Whiteside bits, and some cheaper ones that came with the router. Should I use the cheaper ones to practice with and save the Whitesides for the important cuts? I believe all of the cheaper bits are 1/4", and the Whitesides are a mix between 1/2" and 1/4".

5. When doing the roundovers on the baffles, is a clamped guide required? Even though there's the bearing on the bit, it seems the potential for error is greater when starting or ending the cut?

Thanks!

[ThomasW]

2. On the 621, do you leave the plastic piece on when plunging, or do you put it back on after plunging?? I'm referring to the dust collector aid. The instructions specify not have it on when plunging, but that seems non-beneficial.

Depends on the bit being used. Sometimes when the plunge is in the up position the bit will hit the dust cover or it will hit then the plunge is made. If it doesn't leave it on.

3. How often do you recommend spraying lubricant on the bits between cuts

Absolutely not. Why would you spray oil on unfinished wood?

4. I've got a bunch of Whiteside bits, and some cheaper ones that came with the router. Should I use the cheaper ones to practice with and save the Whitesides for the important cuts? I believe all of the cheaper bits are 1/4", and the Whitesides are a mix between 1/2" and 1/4".

Practice with the cheap ones

5. When doing the roundovers on the baffles, is a clamped guide required? Even though there's the bearing on the bit, it seems the potential for error is greater when starting or ending the cut?

The bearing is the guide. Practice on some scrap material

The inductors should be at least 20 centimeters apart :T

20 centimeters? I think not

[Bill Schneider]

1. For small pieces, how do you guys hold them down, if at all, when routing since it seems the clamps will get in the way? For example, internal braces. Has anyone used the Jasper jig (I have this) for small pieces like this?
Thanks!

I'm not quite sure what kind of routing you desire to do here, but for rounding over small pieces or baffles, I use a router table. This table is a cheapy from Sears with a piece of smooth MDF mounted to the top of it to cover the horrible extruded aluminum "fins" of the original. Something like this could be cobbled together fairly easily from wood.



If you need to cut small pieces or small baffles, I usually tack the parts down with countersunk deck screws to a sacrificial backing board to hold the parts in place. This places the clamps well outside of the router path.

Plan ahead were the screw holes will be, of course. I try to locate screws in the waste, and leave a little rib of material to prevent the waste from coming free from the parent material. It gets cut apart with a small hand saw later, and smoothed with sandpaper.




The small holes on the ring of the part below were for dowel pins to locate them for stacking exactly (not applicable to your question), but there's a screw hole visible in the waste in the middle.

[Gusta]

Absolutely not. Why would you spray oil on unfinished wood?

I've read references to the bit lubrication a number of times, but none were clear to me on when to lubricate the bits. I guess I'm to assume this is for storage purposes. The Whiteside bits came well-lubricated with some type of oil.

20 centimeters? I think not

After checking out that link again, it looks like the 20 centimeters is from center to center, and only if the inductors are the same orientation. In another orientation, they can be placed as close as about 7 or 8 cm. Would you say it's still not a valid reference?

My crossovers will be on one board in the base, and there isn't a lot of room. Thanks.

[Gusta]

If you need to cut small pieces or small baffles, I usually tack the parts down with countersunk deck screws to a sacrificial backing board to hold the parts in place. This places the clamps well outside of the router path.

Thanks, I'll try that. It's mostly for internal bracing, so the remaining screw holes probably aren't a concern, but I guess I could always fill them.

[ThomasW]

The only thing lubed on router bits are the ball bearings and that's rare

There are specialty rubber mats to hold small parts for machining. Using rubber anti-skid mats designed for rugs works just as well, and you get a bizillion of them from one larger mat.

[1Michael]

I always try to place my inductors 20Cm apart and I put one on its side if possible in accordance with the posted chart.

[Gusta]

Baffle Glue

I just got done gluing one of the baffles, but I'm worried I didn't use enough glue (Titebond III). :cry:

I used a paint roller until it appeared there was enough on there. Then after putting the top piece on, I quickly distributed about 300 lbs of weight on it, but some of the edges never actually came together and no glue spilled out anywhere.

So I quickly took off the weights and then applied 12 clamps (all I have) using scrap pieces of mdf. This appeared to do a better job (I tightened them pretty tight). However, the sides mostly have small gaps between the pieces (about 1/2 mm) with no glue showing.

Do you think it's something not to worry about, or is it a do-over?

[penngray]

Since you are veneering this build, you could add woodscrews to secure the box. Then if you want remove them later after the glue is dry....its a decent alternative to clamps in a project thats getting veneered anyways.

Btw, more pics please

[soundemon]

you need to see the glue squeezing out of the lenth of the joint. I'd be very worried about these gaps personally. including some screws while assembling can make the job easier, but may not help now that the glue is dry.

[Gusta]

Yeah, I figured I'd just have Home Repo cut the two pieces since they're oversized anyway and the gluing part doesn't take long. Thanks.