Mark's Statements Build Thread

[mlammert]

Excellent, thanks Curt...

I really appreciate you and everyone else's help so far on my build...

I am never going to get use to this estimating stuff... I totally get what you mean... But, I am just not use to estimating like that when it comes to wood working... Ha ha... :P

I have attached a pretty darn final design of the speakers... If anybody has an last minute comments/questions/suggestions, please let me know...

Really the only change is that this now shows the dual vertical supports for the ports and added some binding posts to the bottom of the back... I also made several "internal" changes to the Google SketchUp file so that I can use it to make my cut list...

Looks like I am making a trip to Lowes to buy some MDF this weekend!!!

Thanks guys and talk to you soon!!!

Mark

[David_D]

Hi Mark,
Just a tip. My HD & Lowes carry different brands of MDF. I can't remember which is which but, one was softer than the other. The softer brand made a "hairier" "endgrain". (for lack of better words) It was a real PITA to finish. The hairier stuff would soak in practically anything I threw at it. Take a jack knife with you and scrape the edge. I think the softer stuff looked redder than the harder stuff.
BTW:
Sorry if I missed this but, don't you want a 3/4" Roundover for the vertical baffle edges?

[mlammert]

Hey David,

Thanks for the advice on the different brands of MDF... I have already begun thinking about finishing the end grain... But, I am going to save all that until that stage of the build... Plus, I have very little of it to contend with...

Regarding your question on the 3/4" round-over on the baffle edges:

I had posted a question on this exact thing over in the official Statements build thread and Jim Holtz replied saying that "angle or round over is fine"...

I am basically making a 45 degree angle on the edges of the baffle that is 5/8 inches... Attached is a drawing of the baffle cross-section...

Thanks guys,
Mark

[David_D]

Cool. I must have missed the other post. As far as the MDF thing, I brought up the point because I'm guessing that the curved back will be a whole bunch of painted endgrain.

[mlammert]

You're absolutely correct, David... The rear curve will be several slices of MDF with all end grain showing...

I am just so excited that so many people like my design... And, I can't even believe that Curt and Jim basically helped me make a "custom" set of Statements with the new internal volume and the new port design... It probably seems like no big deal to them, but I just can't believe it... It is awesome...

One of my past issues of Family Handyman gave some good tips on finishing MDF end grain...

Some of them that I recall were:

1) Making a 1:1 mixture of water and Elmer's wood glue and "sealing" the end grain before painting...

2) Basically doing the same thing except using watered down drywall compound...

I am trying not to get ahead of myself; but I am starting to get excited about the finishing process...

I eventually need to finalize on the color of the speakers... Which my wife will have a great deal of input on... I want the purple section of the front baffle to be painted black, the back curve to be painted black and the foot of the speaker to be painted black... As far as the sides and top and other parts of the speaker; I am pretty open to any color as long as she is happy with it... 8)

Can't wait till the weekend comes so that I can get the MDF and start cutting...

Thanks guys,
Mark

[JonP]

Hey everyone,

3) I added a small vented brace in the center of the speaker behind the tweeter for more bracing in the middle... Thanks David...

4) I added additional "stub outs" on the sides of the midrange braces that attach to the sides of the speaker for more bracing in the middle... Thanks David...

After reading the post that Dan pointed out... And, Curt's feedback on the port's "symmetrical acoustic loading" and stuffing in the narrow cavity, I am not as worried about any "odd resonances" caused by the narrow midrange enclosure gaps... However, I would still appreciate some feedback on that from people more knowledgeable than me...

Thanks,
Mark

Oooooh, pretty colors!! :W

I noticed the central unbraced area as well, the "tabs" and center brace should do a good job of fixing it.

I've heard of long, tall cabinets sometimes having a distinct top to bottom resonance mode. Zaph was mentioning this somewhere on his site, IIRC...
I wanted to ask the wise ones if cramming some stuffing in the top and bottom sections behind the yellow (maybe green too?) braces and ends might be an idea? Or, at least try in construction to make that area accessable to putting some in/taking some out later if need be.

Not trying to buy trouble for Mark, this might not be a big issue, but it stirred a thought. And, if the window brace holes get made big enough for a hand to get in there thru a driver hole... then there's room for later experimentation...

On the MDF quality comments... I went to a local woodworking supply place, vs the local HW stores, and there is a difference! Heavier, harder and denser, worth going out of your way for.

I'd add a Shellac sealer to the suggestions. Zinnser's Seal Coat, cut it by half with alcohol from the paint store. Soaks in well, and dries very fast, because it's alcohol based. Couple of coats, as much as it will drink, and it makes a hard, non absorbing, easy sanding surface. You're not adding water to the MDF, too...

Sounds like you're going to have fun this weekend... :T

[Curt C]

I've heard of long, tall cabinets sometimes having a distinct top to bottom resonance mode. Zaph was mentioning this somewhere on his site, IIRC...

Fortunately the mid tunnels break this up into essentially two 2' tall cabs, so standing waves will not be an issue in the woofer passband.

Certainly some damping material in the top and bottom sections, will be advantageous. Otherwise, I'd suggest keeping in line with Jim's recommendations for the Statements.

C

[mlammert]

Thanks for the well thought out concerns and the tips on sealing the MDF, Jon... And, thanks for the quick feedback and positive confirmation on the cabinet design, Curt...

Yep, five sheets of 3/4" and one sheet of 1/2" MDF will be nice and heavy to carry around... :P Got the trailer out of storage to make it a little easier... That stuff's too heavy to lift on top of the SUV roof rack... 8O

I'll get the material this weekend and hopefully make a lot of progress over the long Labor Day holiday weekend...

Place the order for the speakers some time this coming week as well... Nice...

Exciting exciting times I tell ya!!!

Couple questions that have occurred to me:

1) What is the most advised way to make panels that are removable for things like changing stuffing amounts but are still air tight??? And, I assume that the front baffle would be the easiest to make "removable" since the back panel has the ports and whatnot in it... Or at that point, would it just be easier to remove the woofer and add/subtract stuffing through that hole???

2) When running wire to the midrange drivers, I assume just a small hole through the midrange wall for the wire and then caulk it up???

Thanks,
Mark

[Hdale85]

I have to say these look like a headache and a half to build Have fun!

[Curt C]

Couple questions that have occurred to me:

1) What is the most advised way to make panels that are removable for things like changing stuffing amounts but are still air tight??? And, I assume that the front baffle would be the easiest to make "removable" since the back panel has the ports and whatnot in it... Or at that point, would it just be easier to remove the woofer and add/subtract stuffing through that hole???

Most folks just access through the woofer holes. Don't forget to choose accessible spots to mount the crossover boards, and don't forget to make them small enough to fit through the woofer holes. :W

2) When running wire to the midrange drivers, I assume just a small hole through the midrange wall for the wire and then caulk it up???

You got it! Running all the wiring before that last panel is glued on may make it easier as well.

C

[mlammert]

Cool... Thanks Curt...

I know some people might think this is a waste, but in regards to the crossovers, I think I am going to have external crossover boxes...

I know it will be a few extra bind posts and some extra wood, but I just thought it would be kind of cool... I saw external crossover boxes on this one set of super expensive speakers... And, since I have never wired together crossovers before I thought it might be kind of cool to have them "visible"...

Anyway, that is further down the road...

Thanks,
Mark

[Hdale85]

Why not have a door in the back or on the bottom for the crossovers thats easily accessible?

[mlammert]

Hey Dougie,

Naw... These won't be that much of a headache to build... Besides the rear curved panel it is just a basic box construction except the box is a trapezoid instead of a rectangle... Yes, there will be a few extra "steps" but it shouldn't be too bad...

The nice thing about the rear curve is that I can build it completely separate from the rest of the cabinet and then just attach it...

I plan on using my biscuit joiner as well for most of the construction so I personally think that makes the process easier... But, that's just me... :P

With regards to the external crossovers; I should have expanded on that more... I am going to make the crossover box have a plexi top so that you can see all the components in it... I wish I would have bookmarked the set of speakers I saw with this feature... They were really cool looking... I think they were like $175k or something like that... :rofl:

Typically I find that with my woodworking and my home remodeling projects if I try and go just a little above and beyond (say 10%) it usually makes the whole project come out 200% better...

Also, I try and design things that my wife likes and enjoys... So, again, if making the speakers angle back a little and for that extra amount of effort that means she will let me have 6 1/2 foot tall speakers in the living room because now they look "pretty" - definitely worth the extra efforts... :B

Now, don't take that as I am compromising on the design... I have spent about 40+ hours just designing these... I am very proud and very much love the final design that everyone helped me come up with... I am very much focused on function and form of the final product...

Sorry if I rambled...

Talk to you guys soon,
Mark

[Hdale85]

Oh I never meant it wasn't worth it I'm doing a curved cabinet for my new speakers and it would have been much easier to just do the box but I still think its worth it if it works out in the end. Besides woodworking is fun :B I've actually been thinking about going into it professionally as I think its something I would enjoy for a long time. Probably cabinet making or something. I can have a moderate shop that is more then capable for a few thousand and then its all about developing skills. I was thinking of looking at the community college here to see if they have some sort of wood working classes.

[mlammert]

Cool... Nice... I know what you mean...

Yeah, not to get totally off topic with the thread, but I have been thinking of doing the same thing...

A buddy of mine and I just finished building a home made CNC machine... We are having a few technical problems right now (blew up the controller board) but we are having a really fun time with it and have been seriously thinking of trying to do it full-time...

As a computer programmer, the CNC has really let me combine my love of programming and my love of wood working...

If it weren't for the technical issues we are having, I would just have the machine cut out all the parts for the speakers... But, until it is fixed, looks like I will be doing it the "old fashioned" way... Ha ha...

In regards to the community college thing; you should definitely look into it... I know the Saint Louis Community College system has many woodworking class that are super cheap IMHO... Like $135 for a router class or a cabinet building class and whatnot... Definitely worth the time, money and effort... :T

Good luck with your endeavor!!!

Picking up the MDF for the speakers tomorrow... So excited!!!

Mark

[mlammert]

Hey guys,

Well, I picked up the MDF this weekend from Lowes... I got 5 sheets of 3/4" and 1 sheet of 1/2"...

Man that stuff is heavy and cumbersome...

Thanks to David for the tip on the different quality of MDF... He was right on and I made sure to get the "nice" stuff...

Right now I am in the process of exporting all my Google SketchUp parts as 2D profiles to use as either (a) printed cut diagrams if I do this manually or (b) to use as outline files if my CNC machine is back up and running in time...

Will have to make another trip to Lowes to get some miscellaneous supplies:

1) wood glue
2) 3" PVC
3) biscuits
4) some nice new sharp saw blades
5) etc

Questions on cutting the circles for the drivers:

1) Does anybody recommend one particular circle cutting jig over another for routing the speaker cutouts for the Statements???

2) I do not have a plunge router... I have never really cut large circular holes in wood before... Does anybody have any tips/suggestions on using a non-plunge router in this application???

Thanks,
Mark

[David_D]

Hi Mark,
A few tips; although other methods could be implemented, a plunge router and a jasper jig are the perfect tools for the job. I am sure you will find that the ease of use and savings in time will be an asset. They are both great tools to have in the arsenal.
Also, try to find glue with an extended setup time. I know Titebond makes a “Titebond II – Extend Wood Glue” but, I have only found that at specialty wood shops. I believe one of the regular Titebonds II or III has a longer open time then the other but I can’t remember which.
I am happy for you. Lots of luck & sawdust. (wear a good dust mask, routing MDF is nasty)

[FroDaddy]

David_D pretty much summed it all up. Keep in mind that if you try to save money on tools, you could end up spending more time in the long run for that decision. The better the tools, the easier, faster, and better your end result will be.

- Plunge router
- Jasper jig
- GOOD bits (I bought el cheapo ones and broke them)
- Dust mask, MDF is nasty
- I'm pretty sure that I use Titebond III, it has a longer set time. This is good to align things properly.

[impala454]

-get a router with a 1/2" shank

-cut outside if you can. if you can't, cover up everything you don't want to get covered with dust (yes, something 25ft away and up high on a shelf will still get dust on it). set up a couple of fans and open up the garage doors to try to vent the dust out. move the car(s) out of the driveway, as they'll also get a layer of dust . And make sure you get a mask & safety goggles.

-check out my first post in this thread, lists all the mistakes I made that may help you out. even though it's the monitors' build, there's some general things that might help.

https://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php?t=30825

[mlammert]

Cool... Thanks FroDaddy and David...

I will definitely get the Jasper Jig...

I am looking at plunge routers online right now... I have been looking for an excuse to buy a plunge router for a while now and I guess I just found it... :P

Yeah, MDF is nasty... I am probably going to move my table saw and router stand outside when I actually start cutting the large panels...

I hear you on the bits as well... Good router bits and drill bits and saw blades make 75% of the difference/effort...

Talk to you guys soon,
Mark

[CupCak3]

I use Titebond III... you should probably get the biggest bottle you can just bolow the gallon. I'm doing a 5.2 setup and am almost out of the "big" bottle with a sub box and rears to finish assembling.

[mlammert]

Thanks again for everyone's suggestions...

Looks like Craftsman has a nice variable speed 1/2" plunge router that has gotten quite a few good reviews from around the web... Will probably be purchasing that this week...

I agree on the Titebond III... I use that for almost all my woodworking projects... I created some mortise and tenon joints once and glued them together with Titebond III and demonstrated to a friend how the wood would fail before the glue joint would by stressing it in my bench vise... Quite impressive actually... 8)

Just looked up the Jasper jig on Parts Express' web site... Gotta get that...

Man, I was looking at the binding posts, too... Even the cheap ones are expensive... I might have to rethink doing the external crossover box... That would require 14 pair of binding posts... 8O Ouch...

Just got done exporting all my speaker parts from Google SketchUp...

Man, I just wish the new controller card for my CNC machine would come in soon... It would be so cool to cut all the parts using the CNC machine...

More soon,
Mark

[yousuredo2]

try MCLS for Router bits, or others might have another good site...

Do some searching for binding post etc, you may find a better deal.

[Curt C]

Man, I was looking at the binding posts, too... Even the cheap ones are expensive... I might have to rethink doing the external crossover box... That would require 14 pair of binding posts... 8O Ouch...

Mad has some decent, yet inexpensive binding posts here:

http://www.madisound.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=356_359_119_374

I like the HG-POST, but they are all function acceptably.

I'd suggest hard wiring through the crossover box, or using Neutrik speakon connectors to save $$$. One 8 pole Nutrik connector could service the entire crossover box for one speaker.

C

[impala454]

That sounds really interesting Curt. So it would kinda go like this:

2 wire from amp -> crossover -> neutrik 8 pole output -> neutrik 8 pole input at speaker?

can you link to which ones you'd use?

[Hdale85]

Yeah those speakon connectors are interesting thats for sure. The only bad thing is you have to build a matching cable to go to the amp. I really like the Dayton fully shielded binding posts I just got they are extremely nice. But not the cheapest certainly cheaper then WBT though of course WBT posts just look so nice Way out of my price range though.

[impala454]

Well Mark was saying he's building separate crossover boxes, so he'd have normal +/- speaker cables from the amp to the crossover box, then the 8-pole cable from the crossover box to the speaker. Pretty neat setup, I may have to consider that when I get to the full sized statements.

[mlammert]

2 wire from amp -> crossover -> neutrik 8 pole output -> neutrik 8 pole input at speaker?

Yeah, I really like that idea...

All the connectors could match too since they come in 2 to 8 pole configurations...

I also noticed they make 6 pole XLR connectors and then the 8 pole PowerCon that Curt was referring to... The PowerCon seem to be in the $10-20 range an and the XLR seem to be in the $5-10 range... Depending on where you buy them from...

I have a while to decide on these... Very interesting though...

I kind of like the idea of having a nice thick "umbilical" cord going from the crossover box to the speaker...

Would there be any issue with the three pair of wires being so close to each other in one big cord???

Thanks for the excellent idea Curt!!!

Mark

[impala454]

make sure you take pictures during the process, sounds really neato

[Curt C]

That sounds really interesting Curt. So it would kinda go like this:

2 wire from amp -> crossover -> neutrik 8 pole output -> neutrik 8 pole input at speaker?

can you link to which ones you'd use?

That kind of depends on how you want to do it.

Scenerio #1: A single 8 pole connector at the crossover would allow a separate wire for the + and - for each driver, AND 2 poles left over for the speaker output from the amp. So you could have one 8 pole speakon connector on the crossover box, one 6 pole on the speaker, and a couple of banannas to jack into your amp (per side)

Scenerio #2: As above but all speakers share a common ground: a 6 pole at the crossover box (or a 4 pole and a 2 pole) and a 4 pole at the speaker.

PE carries the 8, 4, and 2 pole sizes. in the NL series. I'd look no further...

Here's a link to the Newtrik site:

http://www.neutrik.com/us/en/audio/203_324141/Speakon%c2%ae_Lockable_Loudspeaker_Connector_group.aspx

C

[mlammert]

First Progress Report

Hey guys,

Well, I was able to make some progress this holiday weekend!!!

What was accomplished:

1) Took all the 4x8 sheets of MDF and ripped them down to appropriately wide strips for all the various parts of the speaker... 4 sides for the speakers... 5 18" wide strips for all the braces... 2 oversized strips for the front baffles... Miscellaneous scrap strips for miscellaneous pieces and back curves...

2) Got the angled cuts for the sides of the speaker cut perfectly... Yeah!!!

3) Now everything is cut down so that it easy to manage with the tablesaw and jigs...

What is next:

1) Build a jig to cut the 26 internal braces... Jig will allow all 26 braces to be cut repeatedly and accurately...

What I learned:

1) "Smooth cutting" saw blades for plywood and OSB do NOT like MDF... It was only $8 but was a complete waste and messed up two of my cuts... Thankfully they were salvageable... Use just a normal general purpose rip cut blade and it will cut through MDF like a hot knife through butter...

2) I cut the 4x8 sheets of MDF by laying them down on four 2x4s on the ground and using a skill saw... Worked excellently... However, if your driveway is not perfectly flat do not do cut there... I had to move the setup into the garage where the floor was super flat... Much better...

3) For $3 an angle finding gauge is awesome for any sort of angle reproducing job...

4) I listened to you guys and covered everything up... But, I must stress, MDF is nasty stuff and the dust will get everywhere... Wear goggles and masks and cover whatever you can up with tarps and whatnot...

5) Measure 4 times and cut once... Especially when you are dealing with any odd angles like I had to for the front and back edges of the speaker sides... I am very proud that we did not mess up one single cut (except for the two that the original blade screwed up - not really our fault)... I attribute this to taking our time and thinking things through...

Attached are just some miscellaneous photos I snapped with my camera phone while we were cutting wood... Not really anything special but good progress was made...

Thanks again guys and more to come!!!

Mark

[impala454]

Fresca is awesome stuff. Especially with equal parts vodka.

:B 8x)

Great to see you're making dust!

[mlammert]

Ha ha...

Personally, I am a neat Bourbon man myself... But, I would be more than happy to give Fresca and some Vodka a try... :P

Hoping to get my braces jig designed and built this week so that I can cut all the braces this coming weekend...

More later!!!

Mark

[mlammert]

Minor update:

I just ordered the Jasper 200 circle cutting jig from Amazon... I was going to order it from PE but Amazon had free shipping on it... BTW, it was the exact same price down to the cent...

Very frustrating that every local store around me carried the Jasper 400 and/or the Jasper 270, but not the Jasper 200... Oh well... Cheaper online and free shipping... Can't beat that...

So, hopefully I'll get that by the time I have all the rest of the braces and panels cut out...

More later,
Mark

[impala454]

Ha ha...

Personally, I am a neat Bourbon man myself... But, I would be more than happy to give Fresca and some Vodka a try... :P

Yeah I'm a whiskey guy mainly but seriously, Fresca + Vodka is amazing. It's like Fresca secretly formulated their drink just for vodka.

Oh and you'll love that Jasper jig. Very easy to use and cuts perfect.

[mlammert]

My Jasper jig just came in the mail... Whoohoo!!!

The week has been frantic... No progress made...

Hopefully I will get my brace cutting jig created and start cutting braces this weekend... That would get me moving in a good direction... :T

More updates soon,
Mark

[mlammert]

Hi all,

Great progress was made this weekend...

I designed and created a jig to aid in the cutting of all the internal braces... Since all the internal braces (solid, vented, and half) are all based off the same shape, I created a jig that would allow me to make the same angled cut over and over again with high accuracy...

You can see the jig in photo one...

The previous weekend I cut the 4x8 sheets of MDF into a couple 18" wide strips... So, all I had to do was slide the 18" strip into the jig, cut the angle, flip the strip, cut the angle, so on and so forth...

I need like 26 braces for the 2 speakers so I just cut like 30 of them in case a couple get messed up...

I was able to cut all the braces in about an hour using the jig... And, the best part is that they are pretty perfect...

Next steps will be to cut out the holes in the braces for the vents... That is probably going to take quite a while... I hate jig saws... Yuck... :P

More later,
Mark

[mlammert]

Hey guys,

Another weekend of progress...

To circumvent my distaste of jig saws, I decided to build a jig...

In the attached pictures you can see the jig I built to cut the various holes in all the vented braces... There are a lot of whole and half vented braces so I figured making a jig that the plunge router can be used with would be the most efficient method...

The braces slide into the jig from the bottom and then are "locked" in with a bottom brace and clamps... There are then two positionable cross members; one vertical and one horizontal... These can be locked into various slots to cut out all the different holes and shapes needed for the various vented braces...

Since I want to cut all the MDF outside I wasn't able to test this due to all the rain this weekend... But, bearing any unforeseen issues, I am quite confidant this should work good...

Once all the braces are cut I should be ready to assemble the shell of the cabinets...

Due to the angled sides of the speakers; I think I am going to assemble the sides of the cabinet to the cross braces and mid enclosures first... Then attach the back and then the front baffle last... At least that is my thinking for the time being... I think that will give me the easiest access for stuffing and working with the ports and running wire...

More later...

Thanks guys,
Mark

[David_D]

Wow Mark,
That's quite the jiggery you got going on there.

[mlammert]

Ha ha, yeah...

As I was building it, it reminded me of the old wooden erector set I had as a child... :P

I just wish I had more time to work on this stuff... I was reading back through the original Statements thread last week and some of those guys got their entire cabinets built in a weekend... Sheesh... I wish I had the time for that...

But, at least I am making wake in the water now, so to speak...

Later,
Mark

[mlammert]

Much progress has been made recently...

Attached are some pictures of all the vented braces that I have cut out...

Good lord there was a lot of dust... 8O

I have the full vented braces cut out and the half vented braces cut out...

Next I will begin to assemble the midrange chambers...

More later,
Mark

[Hdale85]

Really looking forward to seeing these take shape :B

[mlammert]

Thanks Dougie, me too!!!

I am hoping things progress a little faster now that the majority of the pieces are cut out... But, I can't promise anything...

Not to change the subject; but I need to start researching electronic components for when the speakers are finished...

I must state this from the beginning; I do not have any stereo equipment at all at this point... Right now we have been using a DVD player to watch movies and listen to music and just using our TV's speakers for audio reproduction... Very sad; but true...

I am perfectly fine watching television and movies in 2.0... Music is at the top of my priority list at this point...

So...

I recently purchased the OPPO 980H for use as a CD player... After reading numerous discussions, it seemed to be a general consensus that this player had excellent audio reproduction capabilities... And, it has HDCD decoding which I really wanted (and seems to be somewhat rare)...

So, now I need to get an amp and pre-amp...

Lots of people have been discussing the Emotiva amplifiers...

I guess my big question is what are people's opinions regarding the UPA-7 compared to the other XPA and MPS amplifiers??? I have tried searching around the Emotiva message board, but it hasn't really helped much...

Would it be recommended to get the UPA-7 and just not use 5 of the channels and reserve for later when I get a HT setup???

Or, spend the same amount of money and only get two channels on the XPA-2??? And, then add on an XPA-5 or UPA-7 in the future for HT use???

I know I am asking a very broad and relative question; but I am just looking for a little insight and guidance...

Then comes the whole need for a pre-amp...

I know Emotiva has a new HT pre-amp coming out and they have a current stereo pre-amp... Again, they are roughly the same price... So, would it be recommended to get the HT pre-amp when it is released or simply wait???

This might be a really stupid question, but:

If all I have is the OPPO player, can I just plug the OPPO directly into the amp and skip the pre-amp until I grow my music/HT system???

Sorry if this is rambling on... Just wanted to throw these questions out there so that I can begin to plan while I finish the speakers...

Thanks,
Mark

[impala454]

I've got the XPA-5 and I can tell you first hand, going from my Denon 2307CI receiver power to that XPA-5 was a night & day difference. I highly recommend that amp.

And yes, technically, you can plug the outputs directly into the amp, but you wouldn't have any kind of gain/volume control (which would be very bad )

[mlammert]

Hey Chuck,

Thanks for the quick reply...

The OPPO does have built-in volume control...

I found this very intriguing... I am not a hardcore audio/video/electronics guy; but I really didn't understand why a standalone DVD player would have volume control...

I did a few quick Google searches and found that there are a few people going directly from the OPPO to the amplifier as a "temporary" solution...

I am just wondering if anybody has any opinions on whether this is "safe" or not... I'd truly rather spend the money I don't have to buy a preamp and avoid ruining my speakers, amp and CD/DVD player...

Thanks as always to everyone!!!

Mark