New member hello, and 2 silly Statement build questions.

Collapse
This topic is closed.
X
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • steakandale
    Junior Member
    • Jun 2013
    • 2

    #1

    New member hello, and 2 silly Statement build questions.

    Hello, long time lurker, first post.

    I've been browsing DIY sites for a long time, then came across the Statements (search over)
    I have also been reading and searching my eyes out on them.

    This will be my first DIY build, I even taught myself the electronics basics, and think I can do the x-overs.
    I have wood working experience, the cabinets themselves look easy except for the size and weight!

    I have two probably silly questions I can't seem to find answered, or asked before in my searching.

    1. Where to route the midrange leads to the drivers? does it matter? drill a hole anywhere through the tunnel and just fish them to the driver leads? Saw cut a wire trough in the front tunnel edge? I have not seen even a photo in the dozens of build threads I've poured over showing this.

    2. How are the speaker holes done after veneer glue up? I suspect you have a plain face and some blind holes, right? What's the best way to finish the veneer driver holes?

    Found a good answer to #2 right here:
    One questions asked many times on this forum is how to trim the veneer smoothly around speaker holes when the speakers are flush mounted. The problem is, because the recesses can be as shallow as 0.100" or so, traditional flush trim bits do not work. So what are the options? 1. Cut the holes after veneering. (no good if
    Last edited by theSven; 17 August 2023, 16:53 Thursday. Reason: Update htguide url
  • Jim Holtz
    Ultra Senior Member
    • Mar 2005
    • 3224

    #2
    Welcome to HT Guide....

    1. I usually drill a couple 1/8" holes about in the middle of the tunnel on the bottom so I have room to position the wires out of the way. I use 12 gauge Bluejeans speaker cable for internal wiring. If you use a smaller gauge, the holes can be smaller.

    2. I cut the holes before veneering and then use a veneer flush trim bit to route the veneer in the driver cutouts.

    HTH

    Jim

    Comment

    • john trials
      Senior Member
      • Mar 2009
      • 449

      #3
      It's usually easier to drill the wire holes in the mid tunnel before the mid tunnel is glued into the main cabinet, too. The holes can be sealed with caulk or something similar after the wires are routed. You can see how I routed my wires in the Statement Monitor on the right. The wire is routed from the crossover below, through the bottom of the mid tunnel. I drilled two 1/8" holes right next to each other on the bottom of the tunnel (they intersect, so it's one oblong hole for the wire to pass through without separating the zip cord speaker wire). The wire above the tunnel is a bit misleading. It is for the tweeter, and is routed between the outer cabinet wall and the mid tunnel.



      Here is my build thread of full-sized Statements, Monitors, and a CC. There may be something helpful in there. Notice on my tunnels, there is also a clearance cut made for the tweeter. It's about 1/4" deep. https://www.htguide.com/forum/showth...tatement-build

      And you are correct to be concerned about the size and weight! These things are heavy and awkward (but I'm old, and I also had to move my speakers from the basement to the garage and back multiple times due to weather, sawdust, etc.). I never want to have to move these speakers ever again!
      Last edited by theSven; 17 August 2023, 16:54 Thursday. Reason: Update image location and htguide url
      Statements: "They usually kill the desire to build anything else."

      Comment

      • steakandale
        Junior Member
        • Jun 2013
        • 2

        #4
        Thank you for the replies. I'll look into the Bluejeans wire too since it's going inside.
        I'm making note of the suggestions. I'm saving notes and links of all the things I want to remember during my research so I have them at-hand.

        Comment

        Related Topics

        Collapse

        • JonP
          Veneering question: Best way to trim pre cut driver holes?
          by JonP
          And that's basically it...

          I've got some Modula MT boxes mostly done, was originally not going to veneer them, but now am. The driver holes, and the port and terminal cup holes are cut already. I've been thinking what would be the best way to cut and trim the holes under the veneer....
          15 May 2007, 01:59 Tuesday
        • Ntruder
          Overnight Sensations build thread
          by Ntruder
          Kudos to Paul on the excellent design; I originally built these for a pretty large room, but elected to go with the MTM version instead, so the TM ONS's are my new surround sound speakers, and DAMN do they sound great! The jump in sound quality over my previous rear surround speakers is enormous. ...
          22 October 2011, 12:45 Saturday
        • AvFan
          Nail hole filler and raw veneer
          by AvFan
          I'm building my first set of speakers and trying my hand a veneering for the first time. The construction of the cabinets has not been a problem even though I had a reaction to MDF dust and now use a respirator when working with the stuff. I assembled the cabinets using yellow (PVA II) glue but instead...
          27 July 2009, 22:33 Monday
        • Patrick Sun
          The Center of the Sun - photos
          by Patrick Sun
          Okay, here's a bunch of photo's of my DIY center channel speaker construction. I'm sure there are plenty of ways better to build the box, but going for simplicity and hope that form follows function.

          The idea being I wanted a more consistent front sound stage, so I decided to use the...
          22 February 2001, 08:49 Thursday
        • KnightsOfNi
          How to. Trim veneer for speaker holes
          by KnightsOfNi
          One questions asked many times on this forum is how to trim the veneer smoothly around speaker holes when the speakers are flush mounted.
          The problem is, because the recesses can be as shallow as 0.100" or so, traditional flush trim bits do not work.
          So what are the options?
          1....
          29 January 2011, 14:18 Saturday
        • Loading...
        • No more items.
        Working...
          Searching...Please wait.
          An unexpected error was returned: 'Your submission could not be processed because you have logged in since the previous page was loaded.

          Please push the back button and reload the previous window.'
          An unexpected error was returned: 'Your submission could not be processed because the token has expired.

          Please push the back button and reload the previous window.'
          An internal error has occurred and the module cannot be displayed.
          There are no results that meet this criteria.
          Search Result for "|||"