Nail hole filler and raw veneer

[AvFan]

I'm building my first set of speakers and trying my hand a veneering for the first time. The construction of the cabinets has not been a problem even though I had a reaction to MDF dust and now use a respirator when working with the stuff. I assembled the cabinets using yellow (PVA II) glue but instead of using clamps I used finish nails to hold everything square until the glue cured. I then filled the nail holes with Famowood filler and sanded them flush. My veneer supplier (he sold me very nicely figured maple) suggested I use basic white glue to avoid color issues with the raw maple veneer then use cauls, platens and plenty of bar clamps to press the veneer in place. It worked like a charm except the Famowood expanded and I now have a set of perfectly aligned bumps near the edges of the veneered surface. Sanding the bumps off is not an option as they have risen more than the thickness of the veneer. I have enough veneer to re-veneer this one face but I need to do something with the other cabinet faces that have holes filled with Famowood.

Do I use Bondo? Or?
Can I leave the holes unfilled or do I create a possible problem with the glue coming in contact with the head of the nail?

Thanks for the suggestions!!

[bob barkto]

If I'm reading correctly you've only veneered one face?
The others have filled nail holes and you want to remove the Famowood to eliminate any potential problems?

Scratch out the Famowood and use bondo or another solvent based filler. It won't react to the water in the glue.

When ever you use a filler be sure to allow it to dry completely before sanding. Overnight isn't unreasonable.
Fillers usually shrink while curing/drying. The surrounding wood/mdf will be slightly swelled for a short time after as well. If you sand too soon you can get an uneven surface when everything finally dries.

Don't leave the holes unfilled. You'll more than likely see depressions instead of bumps and you could get some staining of the veneer as you suspected.

As an aside, I've never had dry filler expand from glue. Could it be you slightly compressed the wood around the nail with your hammer or nail set? Dented wood will usually swell back up when wetted.

You can fix the face with the bumps without re-veneering. It's a challenge, but doable.

I'm building my first set of speakers and trying my hand a veneering for the first time. The construction of the cabinets has not been a problem even though I had a reaction to MDF dust and now use a respirator when working with the stuff. I assembled the cabinets using yellow (PVA II) glue but instead of using clamps I used finish nails to hold everything square until the glue cured. I then filled the nail holes with Famowood filler and sanded them flush. My veneer supplier (he sold me very nicely figured maple) suggested I use basic white glue to avoid color issues with the raw maple veneer then use cauls, platens and plenty of bar clamps to press the veneer in place. It worked like a charm except the Famowood expanded and I now have a set of perfectly aligned bumps near the edges of the veneered surface. Sanding the bumps off is not an option as they have risen more than the thickness of the veneer. I have enough veneer to re-veneer this one face but I need to do something with the other cabinet faces that have holes filled with Famowood.

Do I use Bondo? Or?
Can I leave the holes unfilled or do I create a possible problem with the glue coming in contact with the head of the nail?

Thanks for the suggestions!!

[AvFan]

Thanks, Bob. I'll give Bondo or another solvent based filler a try after removing the Famowood from the remaining holes. And yes, I'd only veneered one face so far...thankfully. I was also very careful not to get too carried away with the hammer and used a nail set to drive the finish nails home so there weren't any dents from the hammer. So how would I remove the swelled Famowood without damaging the veneer?

[bob barkto]

First, in your case since it's only one face and you have more veneer I'd re-do that one. No time to experiment I think.

For the repair technique...
I'd have to see the piece to give a good specific answer. But most methods involve a very sharp, very thin blade and a slim dental tool, spatula and assorted other odds and ends tools I have laying around. CA adhesive is the glue I use most often for such repairs.

Maple can be an extra challenge because of it's whiteness.
If you are going to stain it might be wise to do that prior to the repair.
Even a coat of sealer, if you are gong that route, can be helpful in preventing discoloration and other nastiness to surrounding areas.

I generaly try to cut at the nearest dark grain line(s) or a close to the efected area as possible. Just enough to lift the wood and allow access to the scraping tool(s). An irregular shape to the cut helps hide the damage. Avoid cutting straight lines across grain. Cut straight with the grain. That's the general idea. Sometimes I'll deliberately allow the lifted piece to break partially away. The resulting fracture lines blend amazingly well when glued down. It's a touchy technique.

Sometimes a small patch has to be removed and replaced with a matching piece of venner. Carefully done it's usually invisible to everone but the surgeon.

...
So how would I remove the swelled Famowood without damaging the veneer?

[AvFan]

Thanks for describing the technique. If it was just one or two spots to work on I'd give it a try but there are eight of them. I'll just apply another layer of veneer over the first one after removing the raised Famowood, filling with Bondo and sanding flush. Interesting fact: the Famowood I used was solvent based but I did apply veneer about 8 hours after filling the holes. Maybe the Famowood looked dry but needed some more time to avoid a reaction with the white glue. Regardless, I'll take the suggestion to wait 24 hours after filling the holes with Bondo to begin sanding them flush and applying the raw veneer, again.

Thanks again for the tips!!

[Erich H]

Can you just drill out the Famowood with a small drill bit, then bondo those holes prior to putting on new veneer?

[AvFan]

That's the plan. The nail set I used to hammer in the finish nails left about a 1/8" diameter hole and so drilling the Famowood will be the quickest way to remove it.