Tweet
One questions asked many times on this forum is how to trim the veneer smoothly around speaker holes when the speakers are flush mounted.
The problem is, because the recesses can be as shallow as 0.100" or so, traditional flush trim bits do not work.
So what are the options?
1. Cut the holes after veneering. (no good if you need to rout the inside to let the speakers breathe)
2. Use a rabbeting bit in a router to cut the recess
3. Use a modified solid carbide flush trim bit
Of all the suggestions made from the builders here Blogs is the one that I use.
So to help other beginners like me I thought I would explain the process.
Ok so my speakers have been veneered and I need to cut the holes nice and smooth.
First I make a rough cut inside the hole somewhere. I used to make a nice neat hole as a starting point to reduce routing, but I discovered it was unnecessary.
(If your veneer chips or splits easier you may need to cut closer)
I then use a standard flush trim bit to cut down to the hole. You could probabaly use the carbide bit but I want to save it just for the recesses
This will get you to this
From the initial cutting you could get a build up of dust in the gap so I scrape it out carefully
You then need to switch to the modified solid carbide flush trim bit.
The bit comes with a domed head, you are going to need to grind it flat, then remove some of the thickness of the bearing.
How much? The bearing part needs to be slightly thinner than the shallowest recess you need to make.
In my case the port flare was the shallowest so I left about 0.110". You do not need to measure it like I did, by eye is fine.
Discaimer! Grinding tungsten carbide sucks! I replaced my wheel with a silicon carbide wheel (The Green one) to speed up the process, but it still took time.
When you are done it should look like this
You need to set your depth on the router so that the end of the bit does not hit the bottom of the recess. The bearing part needs to fit between the recess and the veneer. Mine was close but it worked fine.
Then all you need to do is run the router around the recess edge a quick sand and you are done!
I hope this is of help to some out there.
If you have any more suggestions regarding this subject, please feel free to add to this thread.
Regards
Knights
The problem is, because the recesses can be as shallow as 0.100" or so, traditional flush trim bits do not work.
So what are the options?
1. Cut the holes after veneering. (no good if you need to rout the inside to let the speakers breathe)
2. Use a rabbeting bit in a router to cut the recess
3. Use a modified solid carbide flush trim bit
Of all the suggestions made from the builders here Blogs is the one that I use.
So to help other beginners like me I thought I would explain the process.
Ok so my speakers have been veneered and I need to cut the holes nice and smooth.
First I make a rough cut inside the hole somewhere. I used to make a nice neat hole as a starting point to reduce routing, but I discovered it was unnecessary.
(If your veneer chips or splits easier you may need to cut closer)
I then use a standard flush trim bit to cut down to the hole. You could probabaly use the carbide bit but I want to save it just for the recesses
This will get you to this
From the initial cutting you could get a build up of dust in the gap so I scrape it out carefully
You then need to switch to the modified solid carbide flush trim bit.
The bit comes with a domed head, you are going to need to grind it flat, then remove some of the thickness of the bearing.
How much? The bearing part needs to be slightly thinner than the shallowest recess you need to make.
In my case the port flare was the shallowest so I left about 0.110". You do not need to measure it like I did, by eye is fine.
Discaimer! Grinding tungsten carbide sucks! I replaced my wheel with a silicon carbide wheel (The Green one) to speed up the process, but it still took time.
When you are done it should look like this
You need to set your depth on the router so that the end of the bit does not hit the bottom of the recess. The bearing part needs to fit between the recess and the veneer. Mine was close but it worked fine.
Then all you need to do is run the router around the recess edge a quick sand and you are done!
I hope this is of help to some out there.
If you have any more suggestions regarding this subject, please feel free to add to this thread.
Regards
Knights
Comment