Khanspire's Build Thread

[joeybutts]

My excitement and anticipation has me posting this build thread a bit prematurely. ops: I have been scrounging around for drivers and should have the last of them in about a week or so, thanks to a few good people on the PE website (Eddie, Joseph, Christian, Louis). Thanks a lot fellas for your more than generous offerings.

I am going to start the build hopefully in the beginning of October, and am very undecided about the finish. I am thinking I will stick with the basic build style (rectangular prism with rounded corners on the baffle) though would consider some styling cues if the ideas come along. I would really like to get away from black since that is what most of my builds have been finished.

I've really been eyeing the Redwood Burl and Russian Walnut Burl (though the girlfriend thinks they're ugly, I think she's nuts ), but still haven't committed. This will be an all out build for me, similar to my D8's , Ported Tritrix and A7S-450JB but hopefully better. Lots of attention to detail, even for the unseen elements.

I have plans for a substage after I complete the front stage and it's respective electronic components (amplifiers, processors, etc). I will be building the center channel shortly after the Khanspire's and have decided to go with the Dayton RS WT/MW.

Can't wait to join the illustrious club of ownership of Khanspires! :T

[mtmpenn]

Total opinions here, so feel free to ignore if your opinions differ:

1. I think that a giant piece in all burl is too much. I prefer a simpler pattern on a really large item (like a flatcut walnut, or something quartered or ribbon striped).

2. I think if you have the skills (which I don't), doing some combination of woods can be really nice. You could use a combination of light/dark woods to great effect. I like the combo of zebrawood and wenge for example. Or perhaps use burl to accent the box. I think this is a really nice example of using two common woods to create something unique that pops (and looks kind of modern at the same time).

3. I don't mean to get all lady-like on this one, but I think the decor of their intended location really matters. Modern/classic, light wood/dark wood, etc, etc... my wife should be smiling in victory...

[Solid7]

3. I don't mean to get all lady-like on this one, but I think the decor of their intended location really matters. Modern/classic, light wood/dark wood, etc, etc... my wife should be smiling in victory...

That's not lady-like at all - it's just good advice. One should always take pride in their decor, regardless of their gender or orientation. :T

[---k---]

I'm the wrong one to give opinions about artistic design. I like my black towers (though I am jealous of many of the builds I see). Mine reminds me of the Sear Tower and Hancock Tower... KhanSpire.... Hummmmm, Coincidence???

[Solid7]

I'm the wrong one to give opinions about artistic design. I like my black towers (though I am jealous of many of the builds I see). Mine reminds me of the Sear Tower and Hancock Tower... KhanSpire.... Hummmmm, Coincidence???

Nothing wrong with that. If it fits who you are and what you like, that's all that matters. The best speakers in the world are the ones that YOU (whomever we may be talking about at the moment) like best.

Taste is subjective, no matter what subject you are tasting... :B

[mtmpenn]

That's not lady-like at all - it's just good advice. One should always take pride in their decor, regardless of their gender or orientation.

An excellent point. Not something that I would have necessarily appreciated as a younger bachelor though. My wife has definitely had to teach me this one; and I now totally agree with her. I think it is particularly true the larger the design. A small pair of bookshelf speakers that don't match are an "accent." Massive towers that don't match are a problem.

She also taught me to never leave the toilet seat up... don't agree with that one quite as much, but I learned it anyway.

[joeybutts]

Thanks for the thoughts guys! Thankfully, in my soon to be married life, these will be in the man room, not in the general quarters.

There will be comprised equipment in the general quarters no doubt.

And, I know I may catch some flack for this, but I'm a bit of a metrosexual as it is. I just don't have shared space yet so the finish is a wide open palette.

[cjd]

What kind of decor do you like? Give me some design shots of just about anything, I can probably whip up an option or two. Be warned, I don't do redneck...

[snmhanson]

Thanks for the thoughts guys! Thankfully, in my soon to be married life, these will be in the man room, not in the general quarters.

There will be comprised equipment in the general quarters no doubt.

And, I know I may catch some flack for this, but I'm a bit of a metrosexual as it is. I just don't have shared space yet so the finish is a wide open palette.

So cute to see the idealistic nature of soon-to-be-married guy. Let's get one thing straight right now budy - married, man, and room never belong in the same sentence together. Anything she says now about "your space" does not apply after the ceremony. Just wait, you'll see...

No flack for the metrosexual comment from me though. Although I probably wouldn't label myself as such, I've been accused of being a little metro before. Afterall, I do like red wine, I'm a semi-stylish dresser, I'm a foodie who likes to cook and I prefer soccer over (American) football. On the other hand, I live in the country, mow the lawn with my oversized diesel Kabota tractor and I like to build things with power tools. I even own a shotgun that I actually shoot from time to time. And I ride a dirtbike. Maybe I'm just confused :huh: . But i digress...

Oh, and to make this post relevant, I agree with mtmpenn in that too much burl would be a bit overwhelming. Also, I think doing some sort of a two tone design with a darker baffle and lighter body is pretty sharp looking. Now, I'm just spit balling here, but something like birds-eye or curly maple on the sides with a walnut baffle? Maybe some contrasting inlays if you have the capabilities?

Best of luck on your upcoming marriage. And more importantly, on your upcoming speaker build.

Matt

[joeybutts]

Thanks CJD, but after a quick look I can't find an example of what I'm thinking. Basically I'm thinking there will be the basic enclosure, and then starting low on the front and slanting back all the way to the top will be another layer so it looks like the basic enclosure was unveiled, or is emerging from the top layer that is slanting back, if that makes sense......

Matt, I know....but a man can have hopes and dreams, right?
Yeah...too much burl may be a bit crazy. I've never experimented with inlays but sure wouldn't mind trying if I get some good examples....

Thanks for the well wishes.....in the proper order.

[joeybutts]

What kind of decor do you like? Give me some design shots of just about anything, I can probably whip up an option or two. Be warned, I don't do redneck...

Structurally similar to this ....

http://www.rjbaudio.com/Daedalus/daedalus.html

But completely different finish.....

[cjd]

Oh. Ew.

Only person I've seen really do well with that style approach is Dan N on his Blades.

[---k---]

Be warned, CJD has a fine arts degree...

[---k---]

Structurally similar to this ....

http://www.rjbaudio.com/Daedalus/daedalus.html

But completely different finish.....

These are really big. Doing something like that takes on a different appearance with this size.

I would suggest using a 3/4" chamfer on the sides rather than the roundover. Then paint them a black satin with a silver metal flake, or maybe one of those granite style paints. Then use some stainless steel screw so you get some pop around the drivers, and then do something big and silver with the base.

Black with a very fine metallic silver pin striping would be cool too.

[joeybutts]

Ryan I think you missed the few times I posted I don't want to do black, and I definitely don't want to do the finish like that pic. :P

Structurally similar with the idea I posted above.

I need to measure my Dayton 8's for a size comparison.... I think the Khan's are a bit taller......

[---k---]

How about an inside-out ribbed/finned design? Take 1/4" or 1/2" thick strips of real wood, (red oak?) say about 1.5" long. Run them vertically up the sides, spaced at 2" - 3" on-center. - Like DanN did on his Bassline, but on the outside of the box. Stain these with a nice wood stain, have the base wood black. I think it would look pretty sweet, and you would have one stiff box. and it would be unique as hell. :T

Probably have to play with these dimension a little, and maybe play with the box width to maintain the tall, slender appearance, but I think it would still look good.

I'm still taking inspiration from modern skyscrapers, but mixing it with a little ikea.

[joeybutts]

How about an inside-out ribbed/finned design? Take 1/4" or 1/2" thick strips of real wood, (red oak?) say about 1.5" long. Run them vertically up the sides, spaced at 2" - 3" on-center. - Like DanN did on his Bassline, but on the outside of the box. Stain these with a nice wood stain, have the base wood black. I think it would look pretty sweet, and you would have one stiff box. and it would be unique as hell. :T

Probably have to play with these dimension a little, and maybe play with the box width to maintain the tall, slender appearance, but I think it would still look good.

I'm still taking inspiration from modern skyscrapers, but mixing it with a little ikea.

I don't remember the Bassline's.....you got a link?

That is a good idea! :T I'll have to do some looking and searching for inspiration.....

[joeybutts]

Found a good example of what I am looking to do.....

Something similar to this....

[---k---]

I don't remember the Bassline's.....you got a link?

That is a good idea! :T I'll have to do some looking and searching for inspiration.....

https://www.htguide.com/forum/showpost.php?p=418084&postcount=270

[joeybutts]

You want me to put those huge fins on the outside?!?!?!?!?!

[snmhanson]

In the linked thread the fins are on the inside. I think grooves (without the fins) have the potential to look pretty cool on the outside. You could make the stain/paint job inside the grooves darker to add contrast.

Matt

[---k---]

You want me to put those huge fins on the outside?!?!?!?!?!

No artistic vision!

[joeybutts]

All but two drivers are here! The last two are in transit. Once I locate some specific lumber, the build will begin! WOOT! Thanks everyone!

[---k---]

I think you're crazy for trying to get 1" thick MDF. Wait till you try moving a sheet around.

[joeybutts]

It's the only reason I've been hitting the gym Ryan.

Supposedly one of the places I called can get it in specific widths. Only issue is that it comes in 16ft lengths supposedly. :E

[joeybutts]

Relatively close by is a place that can order 1" MDF. $61. The sheet is 61" x 97" !! Holy Crap that is going to be a beast to work with.

Are the dimensions posted in the first page of the Khanspire thread correct?

Also, if the volume comes down to 3.38 cubic feet instead of the original 3.53 cubic feet, will that make a huge difference? Or should I just raise the height to 56.25" (so 54.25" internal)? And if I do that, so I keep the driver distance the same from the floor or from the top?

[Undefinition]

Why not just glue together two 1/2" sheets? Much cheaper, and probably stronger as well.

[joeybutts]

Going with 1/2" sheets would be more expensive and by going with the 1" I get past the need to laminate two sheets. 1/2" sheets around here are about $26 and I would need 4 or 6 by doing the laminating due to the height of these....

You think laminating sheets is stronger than a manufactured thick sheet?

[Undefinition]

You think laminating sheets is stronger than a manufactured thick sheet?

The reason I say that is because the strength of MDF rides along the hard sruface. The inside is pretty flaky and mushy once you remove the surface "layer." Therefore, it stands to reason that by laminating two sheets, you'd get twice the surface layers. I could be wrong, however lots of people who do builds with laminated MDF or hardboard (see this a lot with curved builds) always comment on how solid and dead the walls are.

I could be wrong, though

Also, you're saying $25 for a sheet of 1/2", whereas it's $61 for a sheet of 1". Even if you need twice as much 1/2" stock, you're still ahead a few dollars.

[---k---]

Relatively close by is a place that can order 1" MDF. $61. The sheet is 61" x 97" !! Holy Crap that is going to be a beast to work with.

Are the dimensions posted in the first page of the Khanspire thread correct?

Also, if the volume comes down to 3.38 cubic feet instead of the original 3.53 cubic feet, will that make a huge difference? Or should I just raise the height to 56.25" (so 54.25" internal)? And if I do that, so I keep the driver distance the same from the floor or from the top?

The dimensions on the first page are close-enough.
I believe they are accurate, but shouldn't be used on a CNC machine, because they might be a 1/16" off here or an 1/8" off there. Nothing that can't be worked around. Make sure you lay things out and check them carefully. Precision is not my middle name.

3.53 cuft is like 95%, and these are oversized sealed boxes, so I don't suppose it would make much difference. But at the same time, it is such a small change that I wonder why bother changing it. I'm sure there can be a good reason...

I built mine w/ 3/4" ply and 2x3/4" ply for the baffle. I think with bracing, this is sufficient. But, box construction is part art, so hey build whatever... Also consider laminating 1/2MDF w/ 1/2" ply. Get the best of both worlds and yes I think this would be better than 1" MDF. But a lot of work.

[joeybutts]

The dimensions on the first page are close-enough.
I believe they are accurate, but shouldn't be used on a CNC machine, because they might be a 1/16" off here or an 1/8" off there. Nothing that can't be worked around. Make sure you lay things out and check them carefully. Precision is not my middle name.

3.53 cuft is like 95%, and these are oversized sealed boxes, so I don't suppose it would make much difference. But at the same time, it is such a small change that I wonder why bother changing it. I'm sure there can be a good reason...

I built mine w/ 3/4" ply and 2x3/4" ply for the baffle. I think with bracing, this is sufficient. But, box construction is part art, so hey build whatever... Also consider laminating 1/2MDF w/ 1/2" ply. Get the best of both worlds and yes I think this would be better than 1" MDF. But a lot of work.

No CNC'ing here, all hand work.

Man...and I was dead set on 1" MDF and now you cats think I should go other ways. I liked the 1" sheet cause I could get all fronts, backs and sides done on that sheet, then do the tops, bottoms and mid cab in maybe one 3/4" 1/4 sheet (probably two though, which I would then just buy a sheet due to cost). This puts me ahead in a few places; good on the budget, thick heavy walls, and nothing less than the design.

Not to be difficult, but to find my error, aren't the internal dimensions of the entire enclosure 9.5 x 12.25 x 52.5 in the front CAD drawing? I asked about the volume due to my planned use of 1" MDF, but I then made the enclosure taller by 2.25". I have a drawing here I can post when I get home (I can't do any of that fancy computer renderings, just old school paper and pencil. ).

I still like my 1" MDF. :

[BeerParty]

Man...and I was dead set on 1" MDF and now you cats think I should go other ways. I liked the 1" sheet cause I could get all fronts, backs and sides done on that sheet, then do the tops, bottoms and mid cab in maybe one 3/4" 1/4 sheet (probably two though, which I would then just buy a sheet due to cost). This puts me ahead in a few places; good on the budget, thick heavy walls, and nothing less than the design.
<snip>
I still like my 1" MDF. :

Have you actually tried to pick up a full sized (4'x8') 1" thick piece of MDF? One sheet will be at least 140 pounds, and there are no handles to grab on to. The reason that people are suggesting thinner sheets of MDF or plywood is because they don't want you to hurt yourself trying to get that stuff home.

[joeybutts]

That's what a 6 pack and friends are for!

Seriously, working with the 1" isn't an issue. The only time it will be is the loading it and getting it home and then I'll have it cut up.

I have been talking with some buddies and they are trying to convince me to translam the cab's anyways.....:

[---k---]

Hey, go for 1". It isn't a bad idea. There are just lots of options and each has it's pro's and con's. So, if you like 1", go for it.

Okay, I see where you're going with the change in volume and size. I didn't get the context. Yeah, if you're using 1" MDF and losing 1/4" on the sides, just increase the height (or depth) to make up for the lost volume.

[LoveDoctor]

You guys don't know Joey. He has short but powerful arms. Like jackhammers, they are! He's done some amazing builds (posted on other forums) using nothing but basic power tools and the porch of his apartment.

[Renovator]

The reason I say that is because the strength of MDF rides along the hard sruface. The inside is pretty flaky and mushy once you remove the surface "layer." Therefore, it stands to reason that by laminating two sheets, you'd get twice the surface layers. I could be wrong, however lots of people who do builds with laminated MDF or hardboard (see this a lot with curved builds) always comment on how solid and dead the walls are.

I could be wrong, though

On the money Paul.

MDF has a 'U' shaped density profile, so more meat at the surfaces.
Also, overall density is usually lower the thicker the panel. Over here 1/2" would be 730 kg/m3 and 1" probably around 630 kg/m3. (may be a bit different for you - sorry only got metric numbers in my head)

So if you laminate you'll get an even heavier panel - if that's what you're after.

Lewis

[joeybutts]

Still not sure on the finish though thinking black and garnet, A lot more garnet than black. A LOT.

Began production today! Baffle work has started, and I opted to do laminated 1/2" MDF for the enclosure instead of working with 1". It's gonna cost a touch more but be a lot easier to work with. Plus I already had a bit of it around.

Pics to come.

[joeybutts]

Notice the tweeter is inverted since I haven't done the notch out's for the terminals yet.....but man is it a tight fit amongst the mid section! I think there is about a 1/16" between the RS150's and RS28A. And that 1/2" MDF is screaming for dear life being spanned like that with all the weight of those shielded drivers.....



I can't tell you how excited I am to bring this together......

[---k---]

.....but man is it a tight fit amongst the mid section! I think there is about a 1/16" between the RS150's and RS28A. And that 1/2" MDF is screaming for dear life being spanned like that with all the weight of those shielded drivers.....

The cut layout is perfect. That looks just like mine! :T

But, 1/2" MDF? I used double 3/4" and recommend at minimum 3/4". I assume you're going to double up at some point.

[mikey15]

Hey Joey did you find the the old RS drivers or are those the new ones. Is there a change in the crossovers if those are the new drivers. If there isn't I will also be a go on the Khans

[joeybutts]

Ryan, the panels will be doubled 1/2", no worries there. Definitely not going to use 1/2" . And glad to know I am matching up to the master's!

I had bought all my RS drivers from people right before they were discontinued, so I have the planned drivers. Shielded RS225 and RS150 and unshielded RS28.

[cjd]

We're working on figuring out how the new drivers match up. Or I should say, I am.

[---k---]

Ryan, the panels will be doubled 1/2", no worries there. Definitely not going to use 1/2" . And glad to know I am matching up to the master's!

I should point out, CJD helped me cut those baffles out. I was still scared of the router at that point. ops:

[---k---]

We're working on figuring out how the new drivers match up. Or I should say, I am.

I can probably bring my boxes up for a day, if you think you could get the data you need within a few hours.

[cjd]

I can probably bring my boxes up for a day, if you think you could get the data you need within a few hours.

I'll only have 2 RS150's And no RS225's. It probably will only take a few minutes (er, half an hour?) if we plug them in and they work perfectly. Best case scenario, tweeter padding needs a tweak, no more. Worst-case, they don't work right, and we'll be left staring at the fact that we'd also need RS225's to do a new design up properly. And the tweeter may not need any padding, come to think of it.

I'll start with the MTM's and then the WWMTM's - if both of those go smoothly, I have high hopes for the rest.

I probably should officially incorporate so I can get dealer pricing from PE. Or whetever it is that it takes. But that might help me get a space for a more permanent studio/workshop also, so...