Advice and support for my Rotel RSX 1067 Srnd Snd Rec., please help!

[selfilm]

Hello,
I am new to this forum. I am an audiophile with some restrictions to my location - I live in Brooklyn so space is limited, hence the need for smaller Quad Bookshelf speakers and the need to use a Sunfire Subwoofer even though I normally never use Subs. That being said here's where things are at:

- I purchased this unit as a demo from a high end audio store in Connecticut which was closing its store. The same with the speakers and sub. The unit, since being purchased new from an appropriate dealer, had a very good warranty which came to be very valuable. The RSX-1067 Receiver wound up having (2) failures of the digital board during its time in my hands. This meant I used the warranty (2) times to entirely replace the digital board. That being said, I am more than a little hesitant to trust the unit as my main source of audio in my main home. I will note that I LOVE the look and feel of this unit, and the sound is delicious - when it's working right. So here's where I need your input:

1. Since I received the unit back it was completely reset to its factory defaults etc. Since I have a 6 year old daughter, I can no longer spend all weekend "tuning my system" and need your faster support. Due to the fact that the system has enough amplifiers in it (If I am recalling correctly) to run 7 speakers independently, I clearly recall being able to use the "Zone" button and separately operate my Klipsch speakers in my kitchen for separate audio and station control. I have even been reviewing the speaker hookups on the rear and there are two available spots on the Front Speaker outs which say "zone" also (my speakers are powered and run off the RCA pre-amp outs), and another available spot on the "Center Back (or rear)" speaker outputs which also has the word "zone" associated with it. No matter how I mess with the settings I am unable to get independent control of those speakers in the kitchen, this is driving me crazy as I KNOW FOR SURE that it worked independent in the past without a hitch. As a note, I only use 5 channel stereo to listen to any and everything.

2. Since I received the unit back it was completely reset to its factory defaults and I no longer can feel (if I put my hands on it) or hear the sub working during operation on any channels - the main ones I use are "CD" which is operating perfectly otherwise, and the same with my Apple TV which goes in through the optical port attached to "Video 4". Now, the subwoofer tests perfectly fine during "Speaker Test" tones. AND, it worked fine during my initial setup of the system, that being said, it tests fine but never plays out when set in 5 channel stereo. Again, I exclusively listen to 5 channel stereo for any and all audio, so not interested in any dolby effects, etc.

3. I can ask about crossover settings later, but everything is currently set to 100hz to keep things simple and clear. That said, I also started fresh with all speaker and sub output levels to 0db so I would have a clear beginning.

4. I feel like I spend more time figuring out the Rotel system than I do using it, it seems a little bit of a burden to me even though I am very techy. My remote control, the model is RR-1050, always seems a bit more challenging than it needs to be. Currently there is a "note" symbol on the upper right which I wonder if it's causing any of these issues. That said, I just am worried in general if getting this system to work "just right" is going to be even worth it considering the digital board has, at this point, a rare chance of failing again - to be clear, I was only going to sell this or replace this in the event the unit were ever to fail again, but since I can't even seem to hook it up and get it working properly after 4 or 5 hours of work makes me skeptical of what I've gotten myself into even though it's an old staple of my system.

I would love to hear any and everyone's opinion who knows this unit intimately as I really am at a high frustration point. Thank you all in advance for your support!
Sincerely, Scott

[Kevin D]

1: You will need to have the CB redirect feature turned to Zone speakers and connect your Klipsch to the center back speaker terminals. Unfortunately, this setting has to be followed by a factory default for it to take effect. So navigate to Menu-default setup, change CB REDIRECT to ZONE SP, then change FACTORY DEFAULT to YES and hit enter. Of course you will have to go through and set everything back up, luckily it looks like most things are still close to default.

2: Chances are your front speakers, or fronts and rears are set to large. You will need to set them to small for the sub to work with non 5.1 signals. You could alternately set the subwoofer setting to MAX, but that would negate your crossover settings completely.

3: I would set everything to small and set the crossovers to 80hz.

4: I believe the 'note' icon just means the buttons make noise when you press them. It is a little daunting, but a good reading of the manual can help you understand some of the little details. Rotel does have a setup utility that runs on a computer for backing up and restoring the setup, but unfortunately it only works on models released after your 1067.

Good luck,

Kevin D.

[selfilm]

Hi Kevin,
Wow! You're my hero!
1. Re: CB Redirect, I am assuming this means Center Back Redirect, and that makes sense - going through the factory reset is no biggie but I love the idea of saving the settings via computer for more modern products. Hopefully I get it right the first time.

2. You are absolutely correct regarding the the speaker settings, I have set those to Large to enable the speakers to provide full range sound so they are maximized for output quality, anytime I set them to "small", it negates all of their capability as a speaker. Is there any way to have the best of both worlds - where I can utilize the full scope of the output of front, rear, and center speakers while also adding in some tasteful subwoofer? I am not entirely clear on the effects of the crossover HZ ratings as of right now as an FYI.

3. Thanks for your insights overall, extremely helpful and supportive,
Scott

[selfilm]

Hey Kevin,
I neglected to ask another important question that could use your help.
When I go into the menu (through my monitor) to adjust all the settings for each input, I make the adjustments, and exit out. I basically changed every input to show the following:
- 12V Trigger: Off
- Default Mode: 5 Channel Stereo
- The rest of the settings are per device but I have basically everything off that can be and everything set to 0db for now until I get the basics of the system running right

The issue here is that when I go to change my inputs from input to input, half of the time they switch to dolby pro logic which is not the "Default Mode" that I chose. I am wondering why this is even occurring considering I have specifically put every single input setup to "default mode: 5 channel stereo"? This is one of the more frustrating items that I neglected to mention earlier.

Any help would be greatly appreciated,
Thank you, Scott

[Kevin D]

Hi Kevin,
Wow! You're my hero!
1. Re: CB Redirect, I am assuming this means Center Back Redirect, and that makes sense - going through the factory reset is no biggie but I love the idea of saving the settings via computer for more modern products. Hopefully I get it right the first time.

Correct, basically I have zone 2 speakers rather then center back speakers.

2. You are absolutely correct regarding the the speaker settings, I have set those to Large to enable the speakers to provide full range sound so they are maximized for output quality, anytime I set them to "small", it negates all of their capability as a speaker. Is there any way to have the best of both worlds - where I can utilize the full scope of the output of front, rear, and center speakers while also adding in some tasteful subwoofer? I am not entirely clear on the effects of the crossover HZ ratings as of right now as an FYI.

Setting the subwoofer to MAX will let you run large speakers and still have the bass signal from all channels sent to the subwoofer as well. Anything below the crossover setting will be sent to the sub. You might have to play with it to balance it out as you will essentially be getting double bass.

As far as the default mode, I'm pretty sure that's for stereo or 2ch PCM signals only. When you receive a Dolby Digital or DTS signal (which could have multiple flavors, 2.0, 5.1, 4.1, etc) I believe it will try and default to a surround mode. It should remember your preference per signal, so anytime you see it change force it to 5ch stereo. After you wind up finding all the different signals, it should then always be on 5ch stereo.

Alternatively you can go into the AppleTV, cable box, and anything else you have running digital and tell those pieces to only send 2ch PCM and not Dolby or DTS.

Kevin D.

[madmac]

Hey Scott......I'm no stranger to the digital board issues with my Rotel. I had a 1055 unit and after 2 tries repairing it, Rotel replaced it for me with a 1057 and I've had no issues with it since.

You will have to go into the menus and in EACH of the inputs, you will have to instruct it to default to 5ch Stereo in each of them individually . You will likely see that in each individual input, the default will likely be set to pro-logic.

At one point when you have time, you will need to set up the speaker distances to the listening position properly as well as setting the speakers SPL levels so they all match. If you are running a sub, it's in your best interest to set all the speakers to small with a 80hz crossover to the sub.

[selfilm]

Hi Kevin,
Once again, this is all incredibly helpful and appreciated. I believe I follow everything you are suggesting here.
One follow up question: With regards to the crossover, you noted that the Crossover sets the signal for the speakers to work at and above. You also noted that anything below that number is going to be picked up by the subwoofer. If I am looking for maximum bass, as a reminder I am using only Quad Bookshelf speakers and would not be doing this if I had full size speakers, then would setting my speakers to "Large" my sub to "MAX" and putting my crossovers as low as I can (i.e. 40hz) so that the bookshelf speakers output as much bass as possible for a more natural sound and does that mean anything below 40hz is sent to the subwoofer - if this assumption is correct (which it may not be), then does the sub not offer any other sounds except for those below 40hz?

[selfilm]

Hi Dan, really appreciate the response. That was a fantastic gesture on behalf of Rotel, I feel as though they are a solid company who does the right thing for sure. Luckily I had the full warranty coverage, but that has now expired and my fear is the longevity of this board - if you don't mind my asking, what was Rotel charging you originally on the 1055 to repair that digital board (I know they tried it 2x and failed, but if I had to go out of pocket to start the process was curious).

Regarding your note on the defaults, I literally went into each individual input and changed the default mode to 5 channel, but as Kevin noted, if the unit is receiving an audio signal which is let's say Dolby Pro Logic or other, the Rotel senses this and might disregard the default - I am going to attempt to configure my devices to only output stereo, but we will see how that goes. Does this all make sense and should I be considering something else?

Thanks again,
Scott

[srb]

The crossover frequencies are not "brick wall" filters, so there is a crossover slope meaning if you set the crossover to 40Hz, there will be some frequencies above and below the crossover point (at reduced output) that will be sent to the subwoofer and "small" speakers respectively (I believe the Rotel uses a 12dB/octave slope on the speakers and a 24dB/octave slope on the subwoofer).

By setting the speakers to "small" and using an appropriate crossover frequency that still lets them reproduce all the bass they're capable of, dynamic range is somewhat increased if they're not trying to reproduce frequencies lower than they're capable of and may be able to be played a bit louder with less distortion.

BTW, in case you missed it in the manual, the Zone 2 outputs will only pass analog signals. Any sources that are connected with only a digital optical or coaxial cable will need to ALSO be connected to an analog input as well to work on Zone 2.

That may not be possible on some sources, for example:

Apple TV (2nd/3rd Gen) which only has a digital optical output and no analog output

Apple Airport Express which only has a single combo output which is either analog OR digital.

Steve

[selfilm]

Steve, you just saved me a lot of time - I did not catch that part in the manual regarding optical output as you just pointed out. Thankfully we usually are only playing audio from straight music sources which are all analog connections.

Thanks for the more detailed explanation of crossover information. I guess what you are telling me is to try out the speakers set to small and then playing with the crossover settings, but if you had a starting point to maximize the bass and mid levels of the quad bookshelf speakers (there are 4 of them / fronts and rears) would you say the lower the HZ the better to accomplish this (i.e. my 40hz example)?

[srb]

Not sure which Quad model you have, but interestingly (strangely?) Quad lists the 11L (5" woofer) and 12L (6-1/2" woofer) as both having the same bass response of -3dB at 48Hz (?).

So yes, I would start at 40Hz and experiment. I owned a pair of Quad 11L and had the Rotel RSX-1056 crossovers set at 50Hz.

You can also physically turn off the power switch on the subwoofer to more accurately hear what is exactly coming out of the speaker itself at each speaker crossover setting. It's also possible to have a different crossover frequency for the subwoofer and speakers so there can be some overlap or not between them.

Again, the higher the crossover frequency for the speakers, the less load placed on them and the amplifiers. If you can't tell the difference between two crossover settings, go with the higher one.

Also if the subwoofer does not have a line input that specifically bypasses the internal crossver (LFE In vs. Line In) make sure that the subwoofer's physical crossover frequency control is all the way up to make sure that crossover is "out of the way".

Steve

[selfilm]

Hey Steve, those sound like my speakers (one set is powered and the other set passive). I follow everything you are saying. When it comes to my Sunfire Sub I will check on the Input option. If it only has one I put, if turning it "all the way up" i assume that means toward the much higher HZ number (I.e. 200 HZ if that's an option) versus the other way? Thanks - Scott

[srb]

If it only has one I put, if turning it "all the way up" i assume that means toward the much higher HZ number (I.e. 200 HZ if that's an option)

Yes, all the way up, 150Hz, 200Hz or whatever the highest frequency is.

If the input in question IS going through the sub's internal low-pass filter, setting the sub's control at or near the frequency of the receiver's sub crossover setting can interfere with proper filtering.

An input specifically marked "LFE" most always indicates that the sub internal crossover will be bypassed. I have seen on some Sunfire subs that the crossover frequency control actually has a "Bypass" position, which in that case would be preferable to setting it to the highest setting as the internal crossover would be completely bypassed.

Steve

[selfilm]

Okay, I will try this tonight and let you know!

[selfilm]

Hi Kevin, Dan, and Steve,

So far things are progressing nicely. I successfully re-directed the Center Back speakers to the Zone outputs and reset the system without any issues. The zone controls and audio appear to be working very well and sounding really good to boot. I also reset every input in the menus to default to 5 channel stereo, and even got fancy by labeling the inputs with their specific device names (Apple TV etc.). I think Kevin was correct that even though the inputs are all set to a 5 channel stereo default, they are still sensing the Dolby signals and switching over to a Pro Logic or other output. I have been forcing them to 5 channel, the only way I can see is through the remote, but it's not remembering my forced setting as of yet, maybe it will take more time. I went into the Apple TV and the Xbox I am using - Apple TV does not offer a setting for stereo only or other unfortunately, but I did get it to stick to 5 channel stereo one time - my guess is that if the unit is on, you switch through it and force the 5 channel setup, that it remembers it for sure but only for the specific session you are using it - and after you turn off and on the system you are back to square one. I tried the same with the Xbox which is currently running trough my monitor via HDMi, then back through a digital to analog converter, and surprisingly it's still recognizing the dolby pro logic signal same as if it were optical connection. Went into Xbox settings without luck but realize that I have an optical cord plugged into the rear which is not going anywhere and it may be getting confused, will work more on that one.
As far as the audio output to the speakers and the subs. As discussed and suggested, I worked to get the sub situated first and then reset all the settings for the speakers. The Sunfire sub did not have a direct input with a bypass, but it did have a "bypass" section on its Crossover Control Knob where if you turn it all the way clockwise I assume you are bypassing the crossover. So I did that. I set all the speakers to small, then 40HZ, then I set the sub to 40HZ and to "MAX". Did not sound right, very thin, very weak, and so I proceeded to go to putting the speakers all at LARGE and the sub on MAX with the bypass in place all at 40HZ. The system sounded thin and weak as I was worried about, better than it was sounding previously but missing some warmth and depth in the mids and the lows. I tried different HZ for all the speakers outside of the Sub, . I played with things for a while, even taking the sub out of bypass just to see etc., but none of it was to my liking. I like warm, rich, full sound and this was not occurring (On my second home's system I have an NAD preamp, ADCOM amp, and a beautiful pair of full size paradigms, no subs, etc. and that sound to me is absolutely idea, but understandable that it's not replicable in this location for obvious reasons). So I tried one last thing, I turned the Sub-Woofer Crossover to "OFF" or "NO CROSSOVER" whichever the menu noted. All of a sudden my speakers came back to life. I sensed warmth, richness, and depth and a fullness in the sound that had been missing. This was what I needed. I was with my family so had to get back to just using the system, I set the sub to 0db and controlled any levels from the on-board level control at the sub. I believe I left it completely in Bypass. It wasn't perfect, but it was very warm and rich and much better than I had ever heard this system. I do wish there was a way to remove any crossover controls to be sure I am getting straight audio, but to be sure and clear - even if I have these speakers set to "40HZ" on the crossover settings with the speakers at LARGE setting, if I turn OFF the Crossover on the Sub, does that in essence make that 40HZ crossover null and void? (meaning, is that 40HZ crossover settings on the Fronts, Centers, and Rears, only in effect when the Crossover on the Sub is set to work?). If this is the case then I can manipulate the system and sub from here very happily for my systems sound sweetening and be very happy. I also have looked into, as backup only, the Contour Setup to control Low Frequency adjustments where I can save them permanently (i.e. if the speakers feel a tad too bassy or whatever may come along) to the system and not have to adjust each time. That's the update for now! - Scott

[srb]

I'm trying to follow all that you've tried (which is a bit difficult ..... consider using line returns to break up one giant run-on paragraph into multiple paragraphs!).

There are two types of bass that can be sent to the subwoofer:

(1) NORMAL bass - bass content of all program material determined by sub crossover frequency setting and output level.

(2) LFE bass - Low Frequency Effects on 5.1/7.1 program material. This is a discrete channel (the ".1") independent of crossover frequency settings, the only adjustment being output level.

When speakers are set to LARGE there should be no normal program bass sent to the subwoofer regardless of crossover settings, only the LFE bass track if present. However when the subwoofer is set to MAX, this will add additional bass (doubling) depending on the sub crossover frequency setting and output level.

The thin sound you're getting with speakers set to LARGE and improving when the subwoofer is set from MAX to OFF is unusual, and makes me think that perhaps the subwoofer is out of phase causing bass cancellation, so you might want to experiment with the other possible settings of the subwoofer's physical Phase control.

Steve

[madmac]

Hi Dan, really appreciate the response. That was a fantastic gesture on behalf of Rotel, I feel as though they are a solid company who does the right thing for sure. Luckily I had the full warranty coverage, but that has now expired and my fear is the longevity of this board - if you don't mind my asking, what was Rotel charging you originally on the 1055 to repair that digital board (I know they tried it 2x and failed, but if I had to go out of pocket to start the process was curious).

Regarding your note on the defaults, I literally went into each individual input and changed the default mode to 5 channel, but as Kevin noted, if the unit is receiving an audio signal which is let's say Dolby Pro Logic or other, the Rotel senses this and might disregard the default - I am going to attempt to configure my devices to only output stereo, but we will see how that goes. Does this all make sense and should I be considering something else?

Thanks again,
Scott

Actually in retrospect, Rotel tried to fix the unit under warranty only one time (No charge). I waited 1 month before I got the unit back which was horrible. It worked initially but by the end of the first day it failed again. I then screamed at them and it was then that they offered me the upgraded 1057.....which like I said has worked fine ever since.

For your speakers, you should really set the crossover to 80hz and set all your speakers to 'small' since any speaker woofer less than 8" cannot accurately reproduce bass below that frequency. This also free's up piles of power on your Rotel to power everything else above 80hz and leaves the rest up to the powered sub.

[srb]

The frequency range of 40Hz to 80Hz is an entire octave and for music I personally preferred the slightly more cohesive sound from a lower 50Hz or 60Hz crossover point, particularly for the nuances and articulation of acoustic bass. 80Hz is of course the Home Theater THX standard recommendation and certainly applies to small satellite speakers.

The Quads will go down to 50Hz and you can verify any speaker's response with easily obtained test tones. I've owned speakers with 6" ScanSpeak drivers that went down to 40Hz.

As far as taxing the amplifier, in this particular system the front speakers are actively powered leaving just the center and surrounds to be powered by the receiver, a relatively easy task for the RSX-1067 in most rooms.

But whatever sounds best is the correct setting!

Steve

[madmac]

The frequency range of 40Hz to 80Hz is an entire octave and for music I personally preferred the slightly more cohesive sound from a lower 50Hz or 60Hz crossover point, particularly for the nuances and articulation of acoustic bass. 80Hz is of course the Home Theater THX standard recommendation and certainly applies to small satellite speakers.

The Quads will go down to 50Hz and you can verify any speaker's response with easily obtained test tones. I've owned speakers with 6" ScanSpeak drivers that went down to 40Hz.

As far as taxing the amplifier, in this particular system the front speakers are actively powered leaving just the center and surrounds to be powered by the receiver, a relatively easy task for the RSX-1067 in most rooms.

But whatever sounds best is the correct setting!

Steve

Agreed ! I fiddled around with the crossover settings for my speakers and found the 80hz crossover worked best. However, for any given speaker system, it's best to try different LF crossover settings and go with the one that works best for YOUR speakers.

[madmac]

The frequency range of 40Hz to 80Hz is an entire octave and for music I personally preferred the slightly more cohesive sound from a lower 50Hz or 60Hz crossover point, particularly for the nuances and articulation of acoustic bass. 80Hz is of course the Home Theater THX standard recommendation and certainly applies to small satellite speakers.

The Quads will go down to 50Hz and you can verify any speaker's response with easily obtained test tones. I've owned speakers with 6" ScanSpeak drivers that went down to 40Hz.

As far as taxing the amplifier, in this particular system the front speakers are actively powered leaving just the center and surrounds to be powered by the receiver, a relatively easy task for the RSX-1067 in most rooms.

But whatever sounds best is the correct setting!

Steve

Agreed ! I fiddled around with the crossover settings for my speakers and found the 80hz crossover worked best. However, for any given speaker system, it's best to try different LF crossover settings and go with the one that works best for YOUR speakers.

[selfilm]

Hi Steve,

For the record I had returns and indents on my text, not sure what happened there but will try again here.

Although I am struggling a little to grasp the differences between the crossovers provided by the speakers, the receiver, and the sub - I understand your point at the end about testing the phase and playing with that. I just don't want to give up the rich sound I have been able to create by turning off the subwoofer's crossover. I understand the concept to not want all signals to go to the bass, makes sense, but if it means losing the warmth and rich sound coming from the Quad bookshelves then I might as well control everything at the sub and have my cake and eat it too.

I have it kind of at a sweet spot right now.

For the future, if this unit were to ever fail, what would be a good replacement for it which is a little more modern (could be sold new or in warrantyable used condition)? I really only need my rears, center, and kitchen speakers powered as my fronts are self powered. I am just considering having a backup ready in my mind if the digital board on this one were to give out again... And would Rotel even care about that?

[selfilm]

Hi Dan,

Got the update and how things went with Rotel. Sounds like the 1057 or whatever came after is a good substitute if this were to fail again. Thanks for that.

I am going to need to do some more research as I am having a hard time grasping the crossover settings (as noted in my previous response to Steve) between the speakers themselves (they have their own crossovers), the receiver itself for the speakers, and the subwoofer settings for the receiver and the sub. You guys have been doing a great job of guiding me, but still feel a little lost. What you noted makes a lot of sense, I don't want to be turning up the volume and straining not only the system, but possibly doing damage to the speakers - I can try upping the crossover to 80hz, but here's my question - if the Sub Crossover is set to "OFF" does this negate any of the crossover settings for the speakers, do they only affect the system when the sub woofer crossover is at a number or "max"?

Scott

[selfilm]

The frequency range of 40Hz to 80Hz is an entire octave and for music I personally preferred the slightly more cohesive sound from a lower 50Hz or 60Hz crossover point, particularly for the nuances and articulation of acoustic bass. 80Hz is of course the Home Theater THX standard recommendation and certainly applies to small satellite speakers.

The Quads will go down to 50Hz and you can verify any speaker's response with easily obtained test tones. I've owned speakers with 6" ScanSpeak drivers that went down to 40Hz.

As far as taxing the amplifier, in this particular system the front speakers are actively powered leaving just the center and surrounds to be powered by the receiver, a relatively easy task for the RSX-1067 in most rooms.

But whatever sounds best is the correct setting!

Steve

Okay Dan, got this too - well, I think the next test is to "turn it up" and see how the system handles bass throughout - that's the only issue is taxing the speakers and maybe the amps at length - but from what you are saying these are small units in general and probably never going to drain out the Rotel. I will do that test today or tomorrow and respond.

[srb]

Hi Dan,
I can try upping the crossover to 80hz, but here's my question - if the Sub Crossover is set to "OFF" does this negate any of the crossover settings for the speakers, do they only affect the system when the sub woofer crossover is at a number or "max"?

No, the speaker high-pass crossover settings are in effect when the speaker is set to SMALL, even when the subwoofer crossover is set to OFF in Subwoofer Setup.

Note that setting the crossover to OFF in Subwoofer Setup doesn't turn off the signal to the subwoofer (as opposed to setting the subwoofer to NO in Speaker Setup), but instead turns off the Rotel internal low-pass crossover filtering and sends a full-range signal to the subwoofer to be filtered by the subwoofer's internal crossover.

In that case, if the subwoofer's crossover is set to bypass (or if using an unfiltered LFE input, when existing) the subwoofer will be actually be playing a full-range signal, which is not at all what you want.

I know it's a bit (maybe a lot) confusing, but try to read the Configuring Speakers and Audio pages (38-41) in the Rotel RSX-1067 Manual several times until it makes sense.

Steve

[selfilm]

No, the speaker high-pass crossover settings are in effect when the speaker is set to SMALL, even when the subwoofer crossover is set to OFF in Subwoofer Setup.

Note that setting the crossover to OFF in Subwoofer Setup doesn't turn off the signal to the subwoofer (as opposed to setting the subwoofer to NO in Speaker Setup), but instead turns off the Rotel internal low-pass crossover filtering and sends a full-range signal to the subwoofer to be filtered by the subwoofer's internal crossover.

In that case, if the subwoofer's crossover is set to bypass (or if using an unfiltered LFE input, when existing) the subwoofer will be actually be playing a full-range signal, which is not at all what you want.

I know it's a bit (maybe a lot) confusing, but try to read the Configuring Speakers and Audio pages (38-41) in the Rotel RSX-1067 Manual several times until it makes sense.

Steve

Just to be clear, my speaker configuration currently stands at: Front, Center, and Rear speakers all set to "Large" and to "40hz" crossover. The Subwoofer Crossover is currently "Off" on the Rotel, and I have manually adjusted the crossover on the Subwoofer to be to my liking along with the output on the subwoofer. Any minor adjustments are made now using the remote control and boosting or lowering the sub output level, but all the rest is run right at the subwoofer. The system sounds AMAZING now, literally the best I have ever heard it - the whole room sings like it's filled with full size speakers which I never expected to get out of this system since I've had it for years. When those speakers were set to "Large" and I released the subwoofer crossover, something opened up the entire system that made it heavenly. I even really cranked it up this weekend for a bit to see if anything would overheat or shut down and no such issue.

Let me know if I'm crazy here

[srb]

Let me know if I'm crazy here

No, you're not crazy, you trust your ears and I'll trust your ears because the difference to you is not subtle but actually quite large.

When you have the speakers set to LARGE, the speakers are run full-range and any speaker crossover setting is ignored (including your current 40Hz setting). Normally when the speakers are set to LARGE no normal program bass is sent to the subwoofer unless the subwoofer is set to MAX, but apparently it is when the subwoofer crossover is set to OFF (something I've never tried).

As far as setting the speakers to SMALL with a high-pass crossover setting, the idea is to reduce the bass that the speaker has to reproduce so you can drive it louder and/or with more dynamic range and present an easier load to the amplifier. But if you're able to get the maximum volume you want with no ill effects, then no need for it I guess.

REL subwoofers preferred method is to run the speakers full range and use the sub to augment the bass (although they do it through high impedance speaker inputs rather than line level inputs).

I don't know why using the Rotel's sub crossover is much different than using the subwoofer's crossover, maybe something's wrong with the Rotel crossover or something's wrong with the subwoofer's bypass setting? But you've found what works and sounds best so (as Brit Bear Grylls would say) "Good on you!".

BTW, did you mention what center speaker you're using? (I have a Quad L2 Centre).

Steve

[madmac]

Just to be clear, my speaker configuration currently stands at: Front, Center, and Rear speakers all set to "Large" and to "40hz" crossover. The Subwoofer Crossover is currently "Off" on the Rotel, and I have manually adjusted the crossover on the Subwoofer to be to my liking along with the output on the subwoofer. Any minor adjustments are made now using the remote control and boosting or lowering the sub output level, but all the rest is run right at the subwoofer. The system sounds AMAZING now, literally the best I have ever heard it - the whole room sings like it's filled with full size speakers which I never expected to get out of this system since I've had it for years. When those speakers were set to "Large" and I released the subwoofer crossover, something opened up the entire system that made it heavenly. I even really cranked it up this weekend for a bit to see if anything would overheat or shut down and no such issue.

Let me know if I'm crazy here

No your not crazy....nor are you the first person to like their speakers set to large. If it works and sounds best to you then go for it. I might even be tempted to try it now on my system to see how it sounds. I never really thought of trying it to be honest.

[selfilm]

Hello Rotel Support Team! I came up with a new and exciting question

I am looking to swap an optical connection that was running through a digital to analog converter to be straight optical again. This would mean I will be using the Optical 2 port on the Rotel. What I noticed is that when I am using the remote control and accessing the on screen display menus, and cycling through the "Input" category, it appears that I can manually change the "input" from Coaxial 1, 2, etc. to Optical 2. But in trying this on one of the standard connections, I wasn't able to "re-address" an input from one to another. Am I physically able to address an audio input specifically to one of the input buttons (for example: Currently "Video 3" is using whatever audio input was assigned to it, and Now I want to "assign" "Optical 2" to this button) - is this a possibility?

Thanks in advance for your assistance! Scott

[srb]

Yes, you can assign any of the digital audio inputs to any of the input buttons. Go to Menu > Inputs

Selecting the input button on the topmost field with the L/R arrow keys (LISTEN: xx), you can assign the corresponding default audio input in the INPUT: xx field

That along with any of the other options should be automatically saved after exiting the menu (there is no save command just as in other menu setting screens)

1. When one of the Digital Inputs is selected as the default, it will check if a digital signal is present but if no digital signal is present it will revert to the analog input

2. When ANALOG is the default audio input, it will force the analog input even if a a digital connection is made and a digital signal is present.

Steve

[selfilm]

Yes, you can assign any of the digital audio inputs to any of the input buttons. Go to Menu > Inputs

Selecting the input button on the topmost field with the L/R arrow keys (LISTEN: xx), you can assign the corresponding default audio input in the INPUT: xx field

That along with any of the other options should be automatically saved after exiting the menu (there is no save command just as in other menu setting screens)

1. When one of the Digital Inputs is selected as the default, it will check if a digital signal is present but if no digital signal is present it will revert to the analog input

2. When ANALOG is the default audio input, it will force the analog input even if a a digital connection is made and a digital signal is present.

Steve

Got all this Steve, will give it a try over the next couple of days and confirm, thanks again!