Tweet
The left channel on my 1080 has blown and it seems the fuse has melted away on the channel. Is this an indication of something gone wrong with the amp from an over current? Still searching for a correct replacement fuse.
-
-
6.3a slow blow is the new spec. Won't do as much good if your 1080 hasn't been updated to help the blown fuse problem.
Kevin D. -
The current fuse in there is an 8A 250V. Do you know if they are all slow blow? Would it matter if I use a ceramic type instead of a glass type? Having some difficulty sourcing an 8A slow blow glass type. I believe I do have the latest version of the rb-1080 as it has the fancy speaker binding posts on it. It was new purchased 3.5 years ago.Comment
-
Opps, 8a were the updated fuses. There were 6.3a in the first design. The 8a's were slow blow as well.
Kevin D.Comment
-
The Rotel distributor in Australia started modifying the Caps/fuse/resistor size to try and fix the left channel failure. They started doing this for all units sold from June 2005. Best to give the Austalian distributor a call and quote your serial number and they should be able to confirm if the correct mods were done.
this being said I had the same problem with an earlier unit which they repaired 3 times, eventually they supplied me with a new modified unit but a year or so later after I'd upgraded to something better I got a call from the new owner saying the problem had occured again. Good luck with the repair.
JDH.
Originally posted by Kevin DBits of HT & 2ch Stuff: Rotel, Pro-ject, Oppo, Bel Canto, Elektra Audio, Benchmark, Panasonic, DSPeaker, Epson, Slim Devices, Belkin, Philips Pronto, Harmony, URC, Sennheisser, AKG, HTPC under development, KEF, Whatmough, Definitive Technology & Pardigm Signiture speakersComment
-
Following up, I have now had the three fuses for the left channel replaced by my self and have had no issues for over 2 months now and counting even under extreme listening conditions.Comment
-
The left fuse in my 1080 just blew :M And it looks that I have an updated unit because the fuse is an 8a 250v. I am on my way now to buy new ones.
Can anyone confirm that if I disable the 12v trigger, this won't happen again?Comment
-
I don't know that it can be 'confirmed', but from the many posts I have read in this and other forums, it did seem that more were using the 12V trigger than not, so I would guess you have a better than even chance.Originally posted by hurin
On the other hand, I had an older model (with the newer clear binding posts, but not the more recent one with 2 pairs of posts per channel), used the 12V trigger exclusively, and never had a problem.
Good luck.
SteveComment
Comment