Crack/Pop when changing inputs...

[5.0greg]

I've been reading this forum for a few weeks now since I picked up a 1068 and the amount of info is great. I've been overwhelmed with the quality of sound and have had no problems with the unit minus one.

Once the unit and amp are powered on and for instance it turns on in Video1, I then switch to Video2 as soon as I do that I get a static burst through the speakers, Video3 the same and will do it again when I go back to Video1.

The second time I go through the inputs the sound is less then by the third time nothing more than the usual relay click.

It sounds like a static discharge or something. Is this worth returning over?

Thanks for your help
Greg

[soundhound]

I would if it were mine.

[Jeff]

If you picked it up new or as a dealer demo, return it. It should not be snaping. That's a bad thing.

[GregoriusM]

I get an occasional slight snap when changing inputs, and almost always get a snap when turning on PL2 Cinema for the first time after the receiver has been turned on.

But then again, I also have a bad hiss/buss/hum problem (second 1056). They are working on a solution now. I hope they can come up with one. I like the 1056, but for the money, I don't like what it is doing.

I'll try a third one, if that is what they come up with, but if that doesn't work, I'm going to have to go with another brand.

Bummer!

[csuzor]

Have you tried grounding the Rotel? The lack of a ground connection is a bad idea for static... Several of us have added a ground to the body, by connecting a cable between one of the body screws and the ground in the wall socket. Be careful not to mistake the wall connections though. The advantage is a static neutral setup.
Christophe

[booktrunk]

The only hiss that I get is when it is trying to lock onto a digital source. So if you turn it onto the dvd input with a dvd is already playing it sometimes creates a hiss whilst trying to latch onto the digital signal.

This is quite standard for a lot of A/V processors. But if what you have is more than that, like others have suggested get it checked out.

Steff

[5.0greg]

Thanks for your help..I think I'll have to bring it back, probably the best thing to do.

[5.0greg]

So I was playing around some more trying to isolate the problem..When I turn on processor and immediately start changing through inputs I get some popping. If i wait even just a minute I don't get anything at all.

Here's my question..right now I'm using a Harmon Kardon PA5800. Don't worry I know I gotta buy a better amp, it was just to get me going till I could spring for what I want. Does anyone think the amp could be causing this? Or is it maybe just the processor and amp during inital startup getting to know each other?

Thanks for your help
Greg

[ssmith77]

all it is is one the fuses has blown take it back and they should be able to replace the fuse on the spot
Regards Steve

[csuzor]

Is the amp using a trigger from the 1068 to turn on from standby, or is it on all the time? If it is using the trigger, chances are its the amp's problem... if it doesnt use the trigger and is always on, it's the 1068's problem... Do you get any personal static discharge when touching the 1068 or the amp? Did you try grounding the 1068?

[5.0greg]

I don't see how one of the fusses has blown but everything does work properly.

I use the trigger so the amp isn't always on, I could try leaving the amp on.

I've been told the 1068 is grounded to itself inside the chassis? Grounding the unit is something you'd think shouldn't have to be done.

[csuzor]

I've been told the 1068 is grounded to itself inside the chassis? Grounding the unit is something you'd think shouldn't have to be done.

There is no earth connection to the unit, so the 1068 body is "grounded" to the neutral of the power outlet, not the earth. This is not a true ground, it has parasitics from other appliances in the home.

In my computer room, I used to get a nasty electric shock all the time, even though it seemed everything was grounded to the earth pins... after investigation, it turned out the earth wire for that room was not connected correctly in the garage. After connecting it, no more electric shock.

On my 1068, I used to get a small electric shock (barely noticeable), but this disappeared when I added the wire from the chassis to the earth pin in a dedicated plug in the power outlet.

I conclude, beware of floating the earth pin (not connecting it correctly), make sure everything is correctly grounded to earth (for safety with earth leakage detection devices, and to reduce static buildup in appliances which can cause sparking and ESD events which burn microchips).

I your case, however, the crack/pop may be caused by a stabilization time when turning on the power amp.

[soundhound]

Not to be the fly in the ointment, we have just dealt with many static issues at work and it was very educational. Here in the states neutral is tied to earth ground in the panel. As far as the static our bodies are like capacitors, Friction caused by certain fabrics (socks on our feet across certain floor material, our pants sliding in to our favorite chair) will generate an electrical charge wich our bodies carry until enough potential difference is found (appliances, a/v gear) @ ground potential to discharge. Appliances and such don't polarize and discharge to us.

[csuzor]

soundhound, I agree with you on the human body getting all charged up with some friction (from clothes, carpets, cloth fabrics, not to mention the opposite sex!) and this leads to the classic "static discharge" we all know and dread. However, this had nothing to do with the small electric shocks I had with the 1068 or my computer, which I could get repeatedly every time I touched it, even get continuously if I left my hand on the chassis, without moving my body at all.
I believe in europe the neutral plug is also connected to ground as in the US. But there is a large amount of current flowing in the neutral line (all the current that goes into an appliance actually comes back through the neutral line). Maybe there is still some eV potential left at the chassis from this return current.
I don't have a decent explanation of why I was getting shocked with the 1068 or my computer, but I know that the earth connections have stopped it. And in 5.0greg's original message, he believed it sounded like a static discharge, so I suggest this could be a remedy.

[5.0greg]

Csuzor, Soundhound thanks for all your help. I'm sure it's just static or something like csuzor said is happening "stabilization time when turning on the power amp". Don't totally understand what that means but sounds good : )

The problem is not there if I just wait a minute to change inputs which tells me whatever is causing the static dissipates relatively quick.

Thanks

[soundhound]

csuzor, you found the problem in you're p.c. circuit by the circuit not being grounded in the garage, am assuming that is where the panel is. I would bet in that configuration you did have some leakage current, as the items on that circuit had found a path to ground somewhere. We both know current can't flow without resistance, and if things are bonded to ground, its a short, wha-la, no current.You are correct in that True "floating" grounds can be dangerous, (if a device has been designed to pull ground through this pin exclusively) in the event a component fails, shorts to what should be grounded, you wind up with a "hot" chasis. Ground loops, noise, static discharge, they can all be identified as seperate issue, but many times they are all on the same playing field. In the hobby we have chosen all of these have plagued people from time to time due to the fact its all about the sound. As you mention appliances may be exposing faulty this or that, but they go unoticed because we don't hear them. Sorry so wordy, TGIF. Bob