Any worries/problems using cheater plug?

[Orange Peel]

When I get my RMB 1095 I want to have it working right immediately, so I will buy a cheater plug before I get the amp, just in case I have the hum people get with this amp. If I use the cheater plug and plug it into the wall socket, what risks do I run doing this? Is it more prone to surging/blowing fuses? I have a Monster Cable HTS2600, should I use the cheater plug and plug it into the high current plug in the Monster?

Thanks for the help!

[ILuvDefTech]

More often than not the buzzing problem is due to SAT or CATV. All you need is a $10 ground loop isolator. I wouldn't bother with the cheater plug. In my mind it's not safe. Will something happen? Probably not, but I wouldn't take the chance.

I have my 1095 plugged into the high current socket on the Monster hts5100. No cheater plug.

[Andrew Pratt]

Using a cheater plug essentially floats the ground to the amps case which would be fine unless there's a short in the amp. Normally that would get routed to the ground pin but if its floating it'll wait until someone touches the case and ground through you

[Orange Peel]

Well I do run HD cable on my TV, so I may get that ground isolator first, then if that doesn't work then I will try the cheater plug. I just don't want to kill the amp with it not grounded, etc. And plus a nice shock when I touch the amp isn't exactly something I would look forward to haha

Thanks guys!

[hamiltong]

JMO - I would not suggest using a cheater plug for the reasons mentioned above.

Also, common groundloop isolators (cheaper variety) are meant for common CATV 900Mhz frequencies. Anyone running HD CATV (requiring more than 900Mhz) systems should not use standard 900Mhz balums / groundloop isolators. DSS frequencies are even worse (up to 2000Mhz). There are some 1500Mhz groundloop isolators on the market that one might be able to use (no guarantees) - but you have to pay more money for them. Best pratice is to fix the source of the ground differential.

I spent months trying to fix my hums (RMB1095) and several different devices (back to back balums, groundloop isolators, power conditioners, clipping ground pin, cheater plug, etc). At the end of the day it didn't cost a penny to properly resolve the problem.. I Simply moved my DSS DC groundblock wire from one location to a known good (whole house) ground point. I found out that my power utility meter (outside the house) was not grounded to the rest of the house grounds.

Hope some of this helps.. -gh

[Locutus2k]

Well I do run HD cable on my TV, so I may get that ground isolator first, then if that doesn't work then I will try the cheater plug. I just don't want to kill the amp with it not grounded, etc. And plus a nice shock when I touch the amp isn't exactly something I would look forward to haha

Thanks guys!

Hi! I have the 1095 with a slight but annoying hum when ground is connected. i don't have any TV coax cables connected in the system, i've tried everything to get rid of the hum and finally i've used a cheater plug. Now the amp is dead silent i'm not yet "shocked" :wink:

[ht_addict]

Hi! I have the 1095 with a slight but annoying hum when ground is connected. i don't have any TV coax cables connected in the system, i've tried everything to get rid of the hum and finally i've used a cheater plug. Now the amp is dead silent i'm not yet "shocked" :wink:

Do you have a coax cable connecting your DVD to receiver? Replace it with an optical and see what happens.

ht_addict

[Locutus2k]

Do you have a coax cable connecting your DVD to receiver? Replace it with an optical and see what happens.

ht_addict

The problem is not that simple. If i connect the speakers wires and nothing else to the 1095, than is dead silent. But if i connect a simple RCA cable to one of the 5 amp connectors, even if the RCA cable is NOT connected to the pre-amp or anything else, the buzz comes out!
I think there's something to be fixed inside the 1095 (on EVERY 1095, not just mine), not outside.
So long, the cheater plug makes my day and i enjoy the amp.
All the best,

Locutus2k

[Kevin P]

Locutus2k, are all your components plugged into the same circuit (outlet/strip) or different circuits?

If different circuits, have an electrician check the grounding on the circuits. They should be grounded at the same point. Also make sure the two circuits are on the same phase/leg of your house power. If they're on adjacent breakers in the box it should be.

[aarsoe]

Locutus2k (you need an easier name.. ;-) )

I had the same problem with my 1095. Rotel did after a long period of thinking suggest that I had the unit in for service to perform a new thing involving the installation of 3 resistors in strategic places.
I have however not had a chance to have this done yet but apperently this is something new that have not been done before.
Try contacting Rotel and ask about this.

PS. Had the issue with speakers connected and just inserting a cable would make the thing buzz like h....

[mitch57]

aarose,

I have a very, very slight buzz but only when I put my ear within a couple of inches of the speaker. How loud is your buzz?

Also, if you get your unit serviced and it solves the problem please let us know.

[Locutus2k]

aarose,

I have a very, very slight buzz but only when I put my ear within a couple of inches of the speaker. How loud is your buzz?

Also, if you get your unit serviced and it solves the problem please let us know.

Hi! I'm interested in the fix the service should apply. i live in Italy and here service assistance for Rotel products is very bad, so the only chance i have is telling them what they esactly should do to fix it.
In fact my buzz is not very strong, but i have Klipsch RF-7 speakers that are very sensitive and so the buzz is amplified.
Thanks for any suggestion,

Locutus2k
P.S. my nick is not very difficult to spell/write ... at least if you're a Star Trek fan :T

[aarsoe]

Well, guess my name is just as hard to write.. (Mitch)

My buzz is pretty bad - to put it in a different way, my speakers are pretty in-effective, so with my buzz there must be a lot of output to get that high a noise. You can easily hear it 5 meters away..

Luigi, Try contacting the European distributor of Rotel (B&W) through the Rotel website. They may be able to tell your local distributor in Italy what to do.
At least they have been helping me in my issue that had to be taken to the development lab in japan before a solution was found.
Will try to see if I can get the amp shipped of this week - but as it have to go to the other end of the country - and you know the size and weight of it - I really have been delaying it until the very last moment..

[mitch57]

Keep us posted. I'm sure we would all like to know if that solves the problem.

[ht_addict]

The problem is not that simple. If i connect the speakers wires and nothing else to the 1095, than is dead silent. But if i connect a simple RCA cable to one of the 5 amp connectors, even if the RCA cable is NOT connected to the pre-amp or anything else, the buzz comes out!
I think there's something to be fixed inside the 1095 (on EVERY 1095, not just mine), not outside.
So long, the cheater plug makes my day and i enjoy the amp.
All the best,

Locutus2k

For me the problem was that simple. What your doing(and anyone correct me if I'm wrong) when you connect an RCA cable to the amps RCA inputs without connecting the other end to the receiver is opening an avenue for interference to enter into the amp and be amplified. Connect the other end of the cable to the receiver completes the ground of the cable. When I had my 1095 the same problem happened too me. Heck I could put my finger on the RCA input of the 1095 and get the noise. What I am suggesting is to connect all your equipment up and if your using a coax cable between the DVD and receiver for audio then replace it with a optical and see what happens. It worked for me. Now I have a NAD S250 which got the dreaded buzz when I hooked up my Motorola 6208 HD box to my receiver via a coax cable. Replaced it with an optical cable solved the problem again.

As far as a fix from Rotel for the 1095, I had mine sent in for service after a fellow HT nut had my 1095 in his setup and got the same problem. Rotel replaced 5 input resistors in the amp and all was silent.

ht_addict

[mitch57]

ht_addict,

Did you have one of older amps that had the colored speaker connections or the newer ones that have the clear connectors.

[ht_addict]

ht_addict,

Did you have one of older amps that had the colored speaker connections or the newer ones that have the clear connectors.

Older with colored connections.

ht_addict

[Orange Peel]

A simple question here, if Rotel knows, which I hope they do by now, that the RMB 1095 has a humming/buzz problem, why don't they fix it? Haven't they had enough time to fix this simple issue? I'm proud to say I bought one, haven't gotten it yet, but this little stuff scares the crap out of me. Not saying it can't be fixed easily, but with the amount of money the amp cost, don't you think it shouldn't have to boil down to this? It may just be me thinking this, but either way, I will be prepared for the worse, major buzz and prepared to kill it

[Locutus2k]

Sincerely my buzz is not that bad (even if it can become annoying in some quiet musical/movie passages) and the cheater plug do the job perfectly. The amp is sooooo heavy and difficult to move that i can live with the buzz/cheater plug and be happy. At this moment i can not afford the "cost" of living one month or more withouth the amp and have it back with no fixes at all (this is something that already happen so many times with other products brand served by the same assistance).
A friend of mine suggest me that the buzz is coming out because of the ground scheme: he think that the phase ground is connected together with the "pure" ground and this causes the buzz/hum. In his opinion you only need to connect the "straight to the wall" ground wire internally or externally to the amp chassis and eliminate any other ground connection in the power circuit. The thing is difficult to verify, because the power connection of the 1095 is covered by a ton or more of other electronics.
I'll try to eliminate the coax cables and we'll see. I'll keep you posted.
Thx everyone,

Locutus2k

[Locutus2k]

Problems Solved!!

Ok, here i am. I'VE FOUND A SOLUTION FOR THE INFAMOUS 1095 (and other amps) BUZZ/HUM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
First of all get a cheated plug and connect the amp. Everything should be dead silent.
Second thing: get a normal plug and cut off the phase pins, just leave the ground pin ONLY. Now connect a cable to the ground pin of the plug, plug it into the wall, only the ground will plug, the 2 phase pins are not present.
Now just connect the wire to the amp chassis, wherewhere you want.
THAT'S IT! The amp is grounded (no risk of "electroshock!") and the buzz/hum is gone!
All the best,

Locutus2k

P.S. I will post a new thread on the subject, just to help everyone out there.

[ht_addict]

Ok, here i am. I'VE FOUND A SOLUTION FOR THE INFAMOUS 1095 (and other amps) BUZZ/HUM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
First of all get a cheated plug and connect the amp. Everything should be dead silent.
Second thing: get a normal plug and cut off the phase pins, just leave the ground pin ONLY. Now connect a cable to the ground pin of the plug, plug it into the wall, only the ground will plug, the 2 phase pins are not present.
Now just connect the wire to the amp chassis, wherewhere you want.
THAT'S IT! The amp is grounded (no risk of "electroshock!") and the buzz/hum is gone!
All the best,

Locutus2k

P.S. I will post a new thread on the subject, just to help everyone out there.

Even if it does work, god forbid something should happen and you get electrocuted or start a fire. The inusrance company and the fire department won't be too pleased with your makshift solution. Cheater plugs BAD Also aren't you still sending any short in the amp through the chassis? So even if it is grounded to the wall, if you introduce another ground source won't it(electrical short) take the least path of resistance?

ht_addict

[Locutus2k]

Even if it does work, god forbid something should happen and you get electrocuted or start a fire. The inusrance company and the fire department won't be too pleased with your makshift solution. Cheater plugs BAD Also aren't you still sending any short in the amp through the chassis? So even if it is grounded to the wall, if you introduce another ground source won't it(electrical short) take the least path of resistance?

ht_addict

If i connect a simple wire to the chassis and to the ground in the wall outlet i am, in fact, grounding the amp. If you have an electrical dispersion or some kind of failure, the electricity pass from the chassis to the ground wire and nothing can happen.
In fact, this is the way any electrical device should be grounded for safety. I don't think there may be any risk, only you bypass Rotel grounding scheme for a more "traditional" one.
So far, i'm testing this solution ...

Locutus2k

P.S. Sorry for my bad english

[Locutus2k]

Just a line to inform everyone interested that the discussion about alternative ground scheme continue on this thread: http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=10234