I want to power my 802s with this

[Race Car Driver]

:lol:

I have been searching for one of these for a LONG time and finally came across one. UPS man was suprised when he went to pick up this "30" lb package that was more than double that. :lol: This is a 300x2 or 2000x1 (actual power, not WLS crap) Sony amp. I bought it for use in one of my vehicles but I dunno if I want to load this 60 lb monster in one of them. This thing absolutely dwarfs my ASW 855 its just outta control.

Wonder how it would sound. Id need to find an AC-DC converter that can handle the 70 amp built in circuit breaker for each channel. 8O

[RobP]

That is a car audio amplifier?? that thing is huge! :lol: Do you run SPL outlaw class or something? 8O

[Alaric]

:jawdrop: :uhoh:

[Hdale85]

I miss back in the day when Sony actually made some good stuff

[MilesD]

Please don't use that to power your 802s. I'm a high end car audio installer. I avoid Sony at all costs. besides, the sound quality just wont be there. Their car audio products say it all...xplod.

[Race Car Driver]

Please don't use that to power your 802s. I'm a high end car audio installer. I avoid Sony at all costs. besides, the sound quality just wont be there. Their car audio products say it all...xplod.

Typical anti Sony reply.

However you are wrong in regards to this Sony and many of thier other equipment as far as quality.

[Race Car Driver]

Co worker snapped a pic this weekend while I was bench testing it... kinda puts the size into perspective.. :lol:

[joetama]

Please don't use that to power your 802s. I'm a high end car audio installer. I avoid Sony at all costs. besides, the sound quality just wont be there. Their car audio products say it all...xplod.

Not true at all. You are correct in thinking that a lot of sony stuff is entry level based.

But, not all of their products are this way.

Don't hate on Sony, they aren't as bad as many think they are.

Co worker snapped a pic this weekend while I was bench testing it... kinda puts the size into perspective.. :lol:

Good lord that things is massive.

1200 watts x 1 or 300 x 2? That seems like strange output power.

More infomration on amplifier please!!!

[Race Car Driver]

Good lord that things is massive.

1200 watts x 1 or 300 x 2? That seems like strange output power.

More infomration on amplifier please!!!

300x2 @ 4 ohms
1000x2 @ 1 ohms
2000x1 @ 2 ohms

Under rated over achiever. :twisted:

[joetama]

300x2 @ 4 ohms
1000x2 @ 2 ohms
2000x1 @ 2 ohms

Under rated over achiever. :twisted:

Ahh that makes much more sense...


It will be interesting to see how those preform.

Any lead on the power supply?

[Race Car Driver]

Ahh that makes much more sense...


It will be interesting to see how those preform.

Any lead on the power supply?

Im sure I can get one through some connections at work. The 50 amp supply I had for testing wasnt cutting it. :lol:
Something along the lines of the LCD readout on the deck going quite dim when I testing 40hz tracks. :P

Well atelast I know it turns on. :T

[joetama]

Im sure I can get one through some connections at work. The 50 amp supply I had for testing wasnt cutting it. :lol:
Something along the lines of the LCD readout on the deck going quite dim when I testing 40hz tracks. :P

Well atelast I know it turns on. :T

I would imagine that amplifier pulls a lot of current.

I've tried amplifiers before on a 50 amp power supply, usually with rather unsuccessful results. :T

[sg2]

Hi,

I would tend to think that most of the parts on the pic (right coil, caps, and the big rectifiers in the middle) are forming a switching DC/DC elevator, because there is no magic :
U=RI and P=UI, thus P=U²/R, thus U=sqrt(P*R) (and I=P/U)

With the P and R values you have given (it is left to see if they are real), this gives us :
P R U=sqrt(P*R) topology I=P/U I@12V
300 4 35 single 9 25
1000 2 45 single 22 83
2000 2 63 bridged 32 167

We can see that :

- voltage wise, in the worst case (2000 watt bridged on 2 ohm load), this amp has to swing 63 V across the speaker load. Given the likely 1 or 2 V drop per output transistor (the ones on the left), it is likely that the rail voltage has to be 70 VDC above GND (as all this stuff is certainly common mode rather than symmetric), or +/-35VDC if symmetric (unlikely)

- current wise, in the worst case (2000 watt on 2 ohm) the amp has to output 32 A through the speaker, at 63V, which is 167 amps at 12 V !!!!

The given power figures are thusly most likely uber marketing values, because it is totally unlikely that the 12 V current draw could top 50 A with the components seen on the pic (50 A being already an optimistic value).

What I would do, if I was decided to use that amp (which I would definately not consider for any other reason than jacky fanciness), would be to remove the DC/DC part altogether, and build a 70 VDC / 35 A power supply (far easier to build than a 12 VDC / 200 A one !)

Reality check

Regards,
--
Stéphan

[Race Car Driver]

What I would do, if I was decided to use that amp (which I would definately not consider for any other reason than jacky fanciness), would be to remove the DC/DC part altogether, and build a 70 VDC / 35 A power supply (far easier to build than a 12 VDC / 200 A one !)

I have no intention on using this as my amp for my 802's it was more of a conversation starter.

I will be using it in my truck, however I may lug a large power supply home from work and try it out on the 802s just for the hell of it.

BTW, I mis-typed the 1000 watt rating, its 1k x 2 at 1 ohm. Also, when an amp is bridged it "sees" half of the impedence its hooked up to, so that 2000 x 1 @ 2ohms, the amp is actually running at 1 ohm.

Whats that do to your equations? I woke up 10 mins ago and im enjoying my rasin brain to much to even try and think about that.

I do know that 2000 watts / 14.4 volts = 139 amps which seems spots on becuase this has two 70 amp circuit breakers. (or so Im told they are 70 amp, I thought they were 100, I am trying to get confirmation from my contact at Sony)

[Race Car Driver]

Hi,

I would tend to think that most of the parts on the pic (right coil, caps, and the big rectifiers in the middle) are forming a switching DC/DC elevator, because there is no magic :
U=RI and P=UI, thus P=U²/R, thus U=sqrt(P*R) (and I=P/U)

With the P and R values you have given (it is left to see if they are real), this gives us :
P R U=sqrt(P*R) topology I=P/U I@12V
300 4 35 single 9 25
1000 2 45 single 22 83
2000 2 63 bridged 32 167

I finally got up and dug out my TI calc, only because I dont square root in my head.

P R U=sqrt(P*R) topology I=P/U I@12V
300 4 35 single 9 25
1000 1 31 single 32 83
2000 1 45 bridged 22 167