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I'm new to the hifi scene and just the b & w's catch my eye and I was seriously thinking about buying a pair tomarrow. I found a local dealer and I will be going in tomarrow to purchase my first hifi!! I want to buy the dm602 s3 speakers, a pair of them are $600. Also can anyone recommend a great receiver for these speakers, and receivers that are around in the 200 dollar range? Also my other question is that man the stands that they sell is called f-700 or something and its 175 per stand, wow thats expensive... are those stands make a huge different in the sound that the speakers can deliver?? Are they worth 175 per stand??!!
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A denon receiver with 120W or so would serve them well. Not to be indulgent, but 200 bucks is a little skimpy for a receiver budget. Your choices get better at 500 or so unless buying used equipment. The stands are not trully necessary, the only reason for stands is to ensure you have a stable, non resonant foundation for the speaker that looks good. You can do that in a myriad of less expensive ways. If I were you I'd take that money and put it in your receiver. -
hehe I went ahead today and bought the b & w dm602 s3!! their so gorgeous and the best speakers i've ever owned!!! so crisp and clear... I have them connected to my hdtv but i noticed some once in a while i hear a pop noise on one of the speakers.. i'm curious if that's normal with brand new speakers? Maybe its because its connected to the tv...? But I only heard it have that pop kind of noise maybe 3 times so far in 3 or 4 hours... anyways these are great!!!! man these 2 make my theatre room sound like surround =D I will look into the denon receivers.. but what about rotels??Comment
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hey I was wondering what about these?? http://cgi.ebay.com/Denon-AVR-1906-A...QQcmdZViewItemComment
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Congrats! :TOriginally posted by jjahshik32
Th receiver looks good. The speaker popping noise is probably from a faulty connection or the TV itself, not the speaker proper.Comment
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whew good to know =D thanks!!!!Comment
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one other question is that from the item I linked earlier post... does that one have optics? I have a xbox 360 that I stream hddvd movies off my mac pro and play games of course on my nec projector and I want to use the fiber optics sound... does all denon's have optics cable out??Comment
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I just tested the 602 s3's on the xbox 360 via red and yellow plug to the speakers but doesnt sound so great.. even my hdtv sound clearer... u think it would sound much better running through a receiver to the 360?? because right now i have like a cheap 20 dollar amp to the speakers and do all receivers have fiber optics??Comment
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I feel for your enthusiasm in purchasing great B&W speakers. The main problem is you're not going to benefit from your purchase with trying to skimp on what drives them . . . your electronics. I have a Pioneer Elite VSX-82TXS receiver that has all of the bells and whistles to enable access to your games, iPod, and then some, etc. Pioneer just released new receivers as upgraded replacements, and, you can benefit now by trying to get a VSX-82TXS cheaper on close-out.
You really need to get a receiver/electronics set-up that will do your speakers justice, even if it costs you more up front than you were considering when you bought your speakers.
I blame the dealer where you purchased your speakers for not having been forthcoming in helping you properly set up your system.Comment
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I guess I will have to get some nice receivers, I'll look at some denon or rotel in the 500-800 dollar ranges.. just have to save up for the next month for it =D
but for now the only time these speakers sound great are via my mac pro for playing mp3's, other than that hdtv and my nec DLP projector via red and yellow L + R plug sounds like any old speakers...Comment
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anyone know good cheaper denon's around 300 dollars to drive these speakers, I mean I dont need the ultimate receiver that will drive something higher than my current speakers... something just good enough to max out my speakers, I dont want to pay more for the receivers than for what I paid for these speakers... doesnt make any sense, rather just use the money for the receivers to get better speakers lolComment
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You should look for digital/optical input, NOT output on your reciever and connect using those.
Connect as close to the source as you can; for example don't use the tv ports use the outputs in the back of the cable/sat box.
Use lossless file formats like FLAC or CD audio if you can; avoid MP3 or at the very least use the highest bitrate you can (320kbps).
You might find that you max out your ears, or at this price range your speaker's will probably max out your reciever and blow both up at the same time.
If your recievers protection circuits engage or it seems very hot, then it's basically telling you that it can't handle it and that you need a more powerful unit.
What you are describing is that you wish to get as close to stage 2 (read below) as possible without any stage 1 type side-effects; which typically occurs only with lots of power (200+ watts) and a 3-way speaker design like the 683, 703 or 804 models.
There are three primary limits to a speaker: physical movement, thermal heat and electrical overload. The stages of a speaker "maxing out" tend to go something like this:
Stage 1: Intermodulated distortions
These can actually be diffcult to detect for an "audio newbie" and are the early signs that the speaker is at or close to running into trouble. Over a long period of time this will destroy the speakers, but it takes 100/1000's of hours of playing in this state for this to happen.
The actual sound that this might be attributed to can vary, but typically sounds like ringing or excessive brightness; IE "tin can" effect.
Stage 2: Physical Excursion Limit
This should be easily heard in most cases, typically a continous thumping, popping or clacking sound.
The cause of this is simply the coil/cone moving further than what it is designed to do, usually the coil hitting the magnet or surround reaching elastic limits.
In extreme cases the moving pieces will deform (unlikely with a kevlar cone), usually the coil will separate from the cone or pop out of the magnet gap.
It is typically limited to woofers and two-way mids only, tweeters don't move that much.
To reach this you will typically need, a true 100 to 500 of RMS watts of power; results may vary.
Stage 3: Thermal/Electrical Limits
By this point the speaker is most certainly doomed for failure, and usually occurs in a matter of a few seconds at most.
In extreme cases, plastics and glues will liquify and the coil will turn red hot usually accompanied by sparks and smoke. Same applies for the crossover. The tweeter coil usually fries first.
This typically requires a minimum of triple the rated power (say 200 to 1000+ RMS watts)
It's good to have overkill wattage per channel; but keep a close eye out for the symptoms of stages 1 and 2 when you push the system to towards maximum.Comment
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