NateTTU's Statement thread.....

[NateTTU]

I'm finally going to begin ordering all the parts of the statements later this week and begin construction soon. However, this will be my first build and I probably will end up with a bunch of questions. If you can please bare with me, here are a few questions I currently have:

1) Is the BOM still valid, as far as all the part numbers are concerned? Besides ordering the port parts and everything on the BOM is there anything else I would need?

2) One thing I don't know much about is speaker foam/stuffing, is this necessary in the statements, if so how much, where, and what kind do I need?

3) I plan on deviating from the initial design a slight bit and won't do the base and will add an extra piece of MDF on the sides that will likely add a total thickness of maybe 1/2'' to the front baffle, would this matter? Here (post #18.) is the design I'm trying to follow.

4) Is the 14 gauge wire from Blue Jeans Cable good for wiring everything together? Also, I'm not sure what to get for the binding posts at the bottom back of the speaker.

5) Lastly, has anyone tried the parts express speaker laminate that is 2x18ft for only $20? I like the cherry and I think it would match some current furniture about the same color but was wondering about the overall quality of this product.

Sorry for all the questions, but I'm new to all this and greatly appreciate your advice and help.

[JaxLax]

I'm finally going to begin ordering all the parts of the statements later this week and begin construction soon. However, this will be my first build and I probably will end up with a bunch of questions. If you can please bare with me, here are a few questions I currently have:

1) Is the BOM still valid, as far as all the part numbers are concerned? Besides ordering the port parts and everything on the BOM is there anything else I would need?

2) One thing I don't know much about is speaker foam/stuffing, is this necessary in the statements, if so how much, where, and what kind do I need?

3) I plan on deviating from the initial design a slight bit and won't do the base and will add an extra piece of MDF on the sides that will likely add a total thickness of maybe 1/2'' to the front baffle, would this matter? Here (post #18.) is the design I'm trying to follow.

4) Is the 14 gauge wire from Blue Jeans Cable good for wiring everything together? Also, I'm not sure what to get for the binding posts at the bottom back of the speaker.

5) Lastly, has anyone tried the parts express speaker laminate that is 2x18ft for only $20? I like the cherry and I think it would match some current furniture about the same color but was wondering about the overall quality of this product.

Sorry for all the questions, but I'm new to all this and greatly appreciate your advice and help.

I just started my build...since i am finally living in a house (was in a hotel from June 3rd to December 15th, non-stop :M )

1) depends..spikes, terminal posts, terminal blocks (if you want for the crossover), filler/mat for the interior...

2) same question. no clue.

3) no, just keep the interior dimensions correct.

4) this is a constant argument. i would say it's cool so long as the run is <30 ft.

I'm sure I'm wrong somewhere, perhaps one of those in the know will provide some better guidance.

[tpremo55]

1) Is the BOM still valid, as far as all the part numbers are concerned? Besides ordering the port parts and everything on the BOM is there anything else I would need?

This should still be good, yes. You'll have to confirm with PE and Madisound however.

2) One thing I don't know much about is speaker foam/stuffing, is this necessary in the statements, if so how much, where, and what kind do I need?

I used standard fiberglass and lined the exterior walls of the cabinet with an added layer on top and bottom. Don't fill the cabinet and don't obstruct the path between the back of the woofers and the port.

3) I plan on deviating from the initial design a slight bit and won't do the base and will add an extra piece of MDF on the sides that will likely add a total thickness of maybe 1/2'' to the front baffle, would this matter? Here (post #18.) is the design I'm trying to follow.

It would only matter if you change the internal volume. As Jim always states, be sure the scallop the back of the driver cutouts.

4) Is the 14 gauge wire from Blue Jeans Cable good for wiring everything together? Also, I'm not sure what to get for the binding posts at the bottom back of the speaker.

I used the BlueJeans 12-ga for internal wiring. 14 would probably work fine.

5) Lastly, has anyone tried the parts express speaker laminate that is 2x18ft for only $20? I like the cherry and I think it would match some current furniture about the same color but was wondering about the overall quality of this product.

Sorry, no experience there.

Sorry for all the questions, but I'm new to all this and greatly appreciate your advice and help.

Well Nate. Oddly, your the only one with questions, but I guess we can help you out... Ha- by all means, as you have seen throughout this thread, many questions have been asked and many people are supporting the build of the statements! :T

[Jim Holtz]

Thanks for jumping in Todd and answering the questions perfectly. I've been down with sinus infection and haven't spent much time on the boards.

Jim

[NateTTU]

Thanks for the advice. I imagine it would be beneficial for me to add some pictures of the project as I go just to make sure I'm doing everything right but should I begin a new thread or just add onto this one? I'm not sure if at different times during the year PE raises or lowers their prices but a few of the items cost more now but the most notable ones are these:

4.7 mH 18 gauge Dayton (266-566) was: $8.83 now: $11.60
7.0 mH Erse Super Q (266-938.) was: $15.86 now: $21.67

The main point of bringing this up is just to make sure the parts are still the same. As of the latest pricing the total price for a 5 channel statement setup is a little more than $100 more than what is currently priced on the BOMs.

The 12 ga. wire is cheaper, could I use this for everything such as internal wiring, crossover, and from the amp to the speaker?

[Jim Holtz]

Thanks for the advice. I imagine it would be beneficial for me to add some pictures of the project as I go just to make sure I'm doing everything right but should I begin a new thread or just add onto this one? I'm not sure if at different times during the year PE raises or lowers their prices but a few of the items cost more now but the most notable ones are these:

4.7 mH 18 gauge Dayton (266-566) was: $8.83 now: $11.60
7.0 mH Erse Super Q (266-938.) was: $15.86 now: $21.67

The main point of bringing this up is just to make sure the parts are still the same. As of the latest pricing the total price for a 5 channel statement setup is a little more than $100 more than what is currently priced on the BOMs.

The 12 ga. wire is cheaper, could I use this for everything such as internal wiring, crossover, and from the amp to the speaker?

Hi Nate,

Yes, inductor prices have raised with the price of copper. You could cut a few bucks by using Dayton non inductive resistors. ( http://www.partsexpress.com/dayton-n...-resistors.cfm ) You could trim a bit more by using Dayton caps rather than Jantzen. I like Jantzen and mills so that's what I spec'ed. The other would work fine as long as you keep the values the same.

The 12 guage would work fine for inside and out. It's what I use inside. I do use the 10 guage from the amp to the speakers but there's no good reason. :B

Jim

[NateTTU]

Awesome, thanks. I won't bother swapping out parts I just wanted to make sure they were indeed the same part, make sense the prices would be higher with the latest pricing of copper. Do you guys typically by fancy binding posts (these look like fun) or just some of those cheap plastic terminals? Oh, and when Todd mentioned fiberglass for stuffing inside the speakers I'm assuming its the traditional pink wall insulation?

[Jim Holtz]

Awesome, thanks. I won't bother swapping out parts I just wanted to make sure they were indeed the same part, make sense the prices would be higher with the latest pricing of copper. Do you guys typically by fancy binding posts (these look like fun) or just some of those cheap plastic terminals? Oh, and when Todd mentioned fiberglass for stuffing inside the speakers I'm assuming its the traditional pink wall insulation?

Hi Nate,

Here are the binding posts I usually use but the ones you indicated are just fine too. http://www.madisound.com/catalog/pro...roducts_id=151 Don't use the cheap plastic ones. If you want something fancy, PE has some WBT knock offs that are really nice.

I hate fiberglass. However, it's the best product to use to kill back waves. I prefer foam and use the 2" variety from FoambyMail. It works very good and is easy to handle. Place what ever you choose on the walls holding back a couple inches from the front baffle. Place it everywhere the back of the driver could reflect sound waves.

The mid pass thoughs require 1" flat foam lining all walls. Again hold it back from the front baffle a couple inches and bevel the leading edge of the foam nearest the driver so it's a smooth transition. A cheap electric knife works great. Hobby stores are a good source for the one inch stuff. If you can blow through it, that's what you want.

HTH

Jim

[Jim Holtz]

Jim, I'm looking at that foambymail.com site and am curious which product you used.

I see eggcrate 1 1/2" & 2 1/2", pyramid 2" - 4", and wedge 1" - 4"

I used the 2" wedge. If I remember correctly, it had a bit lower NRC rating than the other varieties.

Jim

[NateTTU]

One question that popped up on another forum is about my diy LLT sub and the crossover point from the speakers to the subwoofer. What would be the best crossover point for the statements? I know its been said the Statements have a F3 of 33Hz but I frankly don't know what that means. The sub will be a large sonosub tuned to 16.5Hz so it will be excellent for the very deep end but I'm not sure how high up it should go.

[Jim Holtz]

One question that popped up on another forum is about my diy LLT sub and the crossover point from the speakers to the subwoofer. What would be the best crossover point for the statements? I know its been said the Statements have a F3 of 33Hz but I frankly don't know what that means. The sub will be a large sonosub tuned to 16.5Hz so it will be excellent for the very deep end but I'm not sure how high up it should go.

Hi Nate,

A F3 of 33 Hz. means they are down 3 db at 33 Hz. with out room gain. Calculate room gain in and they're probably up a few db from 50 Hz. on down into the 20's. The Statements have a lot of bass so I doubt you'll be using the sub for music. For Home Theater, I think I'd start with a crossover of around 40 Hz and adjust to taste from there. It also depends on what slope crossover you're using for your sub. Try it and see how it sounds.

Jim

[NateTTU]

Another small piece of the puzzle; where can I find 2'' spikes and are there cheaper alternatives? So far the few I found were at least $20 or more a set which is really a bunch more than I want to spend.

BTW: 703 rigid fiberglass is kinda hard to find as you mentioned. I guess just the regular pink stuff works just fine as well or is there another specific, more readily available, fiberglass to use? The reason I'm leaning a bit more towards fiberglass is because it will be much cheaper, hopefully.

[impala454]

Nate, I actually went to Hobby Lobby tonight and found a huge roll of 2" egg crate foam for about $25. I forget the exact size but I'm sure it'd be enough to do the Statements + the center. I'm not positive if it's the ideal stuff to use, but seems like any other egg crate foam out there. They also have the 1" flat foam fairly cheap as well.

[tpremo55]

Nate, I actually went to Hobby Lobby tonight and found a huge roll of 2" egg crate foam for about $25. I forget the exact size but I'm sure it'd be enough to do the Statements + the center. I'm not positive if it's the ideal stuff to use, but seems like any other egg crate foam out there. They also have the 1" flat foam fairly cheap as well.

There are many reviews and opinions posted regarding damping material both on this forum:

https://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25824

or -

https://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25628

...and other sites such as John's:

https://www.zaphaudio.com/whispermat.html

bottom-line, "Open Cell" egg crate foam may work, however it may not. Fiberglass (pink stuff) is the best balance of high availability, price, and effectiveness.

Happy reading...

[impala454]

Sorry for the bad info then I'll shuttup ops:

Just thought I recalled seeing pics of someone's build with egg crate so I assumed it was ok (we all know the root word of assume )

[Jim Holtz]

As Todd says there are many opinions about what works best. I agree that fiberglass is the best but it's also nasty to work with. So, I go by the NRC rating of the products to compare them and I also compare the test figures at the lowest frequencies they're rated at. Two inch 703 fiberglass is rated at .17 @ 125 Hz. Two wedge foam from FoambyMail is rated at .13 @ 125 Hz. That was close enough for me.

http://www.bobgolds.com/AbsorptionCoefficients.htm

http://www.foambymail.com/Products.html

Just as a comparison, the 2 1/2" eggcrate foam has a rating of .20 @ 125 Hz. I don't think I'd call it worthless based on the ratings.

The crossover frequencies are 350 - 400 Hz. for the Statements line up depending on which one you're building so the primary concern is killing the back wave from there on down.

My $.02 worth....

Jim

[impala454]

It's also fairly easy to rip it out and put something else in there later anyhow right? I hope?

[NateTTU]

For a while I was pretty confused considering the word fiberglass was thrown around quite a bit. However, I think I got the most of all the info and found that the rigid (703 & 705) fiberglass is the best but hard to find and kinda expensive. Normal pink fluffy fiberglass insulation works well and is easily found and really cheap. Of course the acoustic panels and such work but they are more expensive but nicer looking. Based on the results I found its easy for me to see that the pink fluffy standard fiberglass insulation is the choice for me. However, is there such a thing as using a too thick of insulation material? I know the standard insullation comes in different thicknesses and I just wasn't sure if using, for example, the 6.25'' would result in some ill effect on the speakers performance by reducing the internal volume by soo much.

[tpremo55]

Sorry for the bad info then I'll shuttup ops:

Just thought I recalled seeing pics of someone's build with egg crate so I assumed it was ok (we all know the root word of assume )

Hey - not at all what I was trying to suggest - in fact, you may have seen that egg crate stuff in *MY* statements build - in the midrange lines. I used it because I had it and wanted to see what it would do. I have not been displeased. I once read that open cell foam you can see through - while closed cell foam you cannot - but I don't know how well that works.

Jim's use of foambymail has produced good results as well in my opinion. If I had more time, I would have likely used that foam from the git-go, but I was pressed to finish these by 2007 Iowa DIY. I am pretty happy with the fiberglass however and will use that in more of my designs in the future.

[NateTTU]

Curt,

Thanks for pointing that out. Probably not a big deal but one thing I have noticed is that the statements built are using a total of 8 1.75''x6.5'' vertical braces along the mid line tunnel passages. The difference comes while looking at the CAD drawing and it shows to use 4 1.75''x16.25'' vertical braces that connect the two tunnels together. (these are noted as K on the cut list) Again this probably isn't a big deal but when you brought up that area in your post I was just browsing through to check it out and see what you were talking about and noticed this. BTW, back on topic, so would stuffing the 3.5'' R13 fiberglass down the sides of the tunnels in the area of question constrict the airflow too much for the RS225s? I was going to try and follow this:

https://www.htguide.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=10831

but it is impossible to see what is done along the sides of the tunnels.

Again, sorry for all the questions but I'm one of the guys who probably wouldn't know any better so I'm just trying to make sure everything is planned out so I don't screw anything up.

Nate

[Sefferdog]

Curt,

Thanks for pointing that out. Probably not a big deal but one thing I have noticed is that the statements built are using a total of 8 1.75''x6.5'' vertical braces along the mid line tunnel passages. The difference comes while looking at the CAD drawing and it shows to use 4 1.75''x16.25'' vertical braces that connect the two tunnels together. (these are noted as K on the cut list) Again this probably isn't a big deal but when you brought up that area in your post I was just browsing through to check it out and see what you were talking about and noticed this. BTW, back on topic, so would stuffing the 3.5'' R13 fiberglass down the sides of the tunnels in the area of question constrict the airflow too much for the RS225s? I was going to try and follow this:

https://www.htguide.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=10831

but it is impossible to see what is done along the sides of the tunnels.

Again, sorry for all the questions but I'm one of the guys who probably wouldn't know any better so I'm just trying to make sure everything is planned out so I don't screw anything up.

Nate

Nate,

That is a pic of mine during construction, here is a shot of the fiberglass without the front attached, maybe this will help.

Image not available
Let me know if you need any other pics, I took a ton.

[NateTTU]

Wade,

Yea, you read my mind; I love pictures! They really do provide me, a novice, with so much information. What is the thickness of the insulation you used? Also, are all your pics online already or are you having to upload them one at a time? I wouldn't mind just browsing through them if they are already up but don't want you to waste time putting them all online.

Curt or Jim,

Would it be a problem if I removed the lower base ('D') from the cut list and instead open that base up by just adding lenths to the baffle and sides a total of 3''? This would be used instead of the base, only for asthetic reasons, but would open up the 9'' port hole to a 10''x14.5'' hole instead with the back completely open to the room. In short the base would consiste of 3 .75'' sides and would look like a U from the bottom view.
I'm not so sure if spikes can be used in my application. If the height of the tweeter can be moved a little I would just sit the entire speaker on the ground and forget about the spikes. This would result in the speaker being 2'' shorter though.

Nate

[Jim Holtz]

Wade,

Yea, you read my mind; I love pictures! They really do provide me, a novice, with so much information. What is the thickness of the insulation you used? Also, are all your pics online already or are you having to upload them one at a time? I wouldn't mind just browsing through them if they are already up but don't want you to waste time putting them all online.

Curt or Jim,

Would it be a problem if I removed the lower base ('D') from the cut list and instead open that base up by just adding lenths to the baffle and sides a total of 3''? This would be used instead of the base, only for asthetic reasons, but would open up the 9'' port hole to a 10''x14.5'' hole instead with the back completely open to the room. In short the base would consiste of 3 .75'' sides and would look like a U from the bottom view.
I'm not so sure if spikes can be used in my application. If the height of the tweeter can be moved a little I would just sit the entire speaker on the ground and forget about the spikes. This would result in the speaker being 2'' shorter though.

Nate

Hi Nate,

You can use the U shaped base rather than the way I constructed it. If it's open at the back, make the base what ever height needed to get the overall height of the speaker up to 60" tall. The drivers can be adjusted up or down on the baffle to position the ribbon at ear height when seated but don't change the spacing between the drivers. Actually, the over all height can be adjusted in the base to help get the ribbon at ear height. Just don't change the cabinet volume or width and you'll be fine. You can also port it out the back if you prefer.

Jim

[Curt C]

Wade,

Yea, you read my mind; I love pictures! They really do provide me, a novice, with so much information. What is the thickness of the insulation you used? Also, are all your pics online already or are you having to upload them one at a time? I wouldn't mind just browsing through them if they are already up but don't want you to waste time putting them all online.

Curt or Jim,

Would it be a problem if I removed the lower base ('D') from the cut list and instead open that base up by just adding lenths to the baffle and sides a total of 3''? This would be used instead of the base, only for asthetic reasons, but would open up the 9'' port hole to a 10''x14.5'' hole instead with the back completely open to the room. In short the base would consiste of 3 .75'' sides and would look like a U from the bottom view.
I'm not so sure if spikes can be used in my application. If the height of the tweeter can be moved a little I would just sit the entire speaker on the ground and forget about the spikes. This would result in the speaker being 2'' shorter though.

Nate

Did Jim and I ever mention that Wade it the 'official' photographer for the Statements?

I like the way Wade lined it, leaving ample breathing room around the mid enclosures. Looks like 1" batts from here. just about perfect in my book.

Lengthening the sides, and forgoing the base is no problem. The tweeter is presently situated 38" above the floor, which is optimal. If the spikes are an issue, I'd just make the sides 5" longer to maintain the same height.

From your favorite listening chair, measure from your ear to the ground. -That's the tweeter height to shoot for. If the room is reasonably large, and you will be sitting at least 10 feet from them, an inch or two either way will make no audible difference. You can always port out the back at the bottom as well, if that better serves your situation.

Cheap spikes: During the crossover design phase, Jim brought over some 3" long 1/4" bolts that we screwed into the T-nuts instead of spikes. They worked fine on carpet. Lets face it, when someone walks into the room and sees the Statements for the first time, they will NOT be looking at the spikes.

Merry Christmas Everyone!

C

[NateTTU]

Wade,

Thanks for the tips, thats what I found and was planning on doing as well. Its awesome a 32' roll of the stuff is only $9 at the local HD. I was just hoping that you would tell me they actually made a 1.5'' version of this stuff so I wouldn't have to mess with pulling it apart, but thats ok.

Nate

[Sefferdog]

Wade,
Also, are all your pics online already or are you having to upload them one at a time?
Nate

Nate,

While I don't have them all online where you can just browse through them, there are quite a few posted in this thread. Additionally, any portion of the build you are interested in has probably been photoed by me during my build. Just post, email, PM, etc... and I will show you what I have. :T

Wade

[NateTTU]

Plans are finally beginning to come together. Parts have been ordered and building materials are being collected. However, since I'm starting from scratch (no previous HT equipment) I have to buy absolutely everything. I was going to purchase some cable from blue jeans but since the speakers won't be setup in their 'final' resting place for quite a while I thought I would just cheap out here and get some lesser quality wire for the time being. However I still would like to get some audio cables for the signal to run between my new LMC-1 & LPA-1. The surround audio cables at blue jeans look fine and all but the budget is beginning to run thin (especially when I realized that mdf is now over $20 for a sheet!!) and for just a 3ft cable length the price is about $80 and I can't really afford that much right now on such a small piece of the puzzle. Can anyone else recommend another solution?

[---k---]

monoprice.com

I've got a few of their cables. Their prices are dirt cheap (makes you think you're getting scammed) and the build quality is good. I would recommend them to anyone who doesn't believe in cable voodoo.

[NateTTU]

Thanks Ryan,

These prices are fantastic and from what I read they provide good products as well. I have one small question however. In the long run I would like to use a good quality wire for the internal portion of the speakers but the wire to the amp to speaker can be cheaper for the time being. With that said, is the bluejeans wire much higher quality than the monoprice? If not I will definately just use the monoprice throughout. The largest price difference is in the surround audio/rca cables from my pre/pro to the amp. Bluejeans runs about $110 for 6 ft (6 wires) while the monoprice is less than $10 for 6 6ft wires.

[Jim Holtz]

Thanks Ryan,

These prices are fantastic and from what I read they provide good products as well. I have one small question however. In the long run I would like to use a good quality wire for the internal portion of the speakers but the wire to the amp to speaker can be cheaper for the time being. With that said, is the bluejeans wire much higher quality than the monoprice? If not I will definately just use the monoprice throughout. The largest price difference is in the surround audio/rca cables from my pre/pro to the amp. Bluejeans runs about $110 for 6 ft (6 wires) while the monoprice is less than $10 for 6 6ft wires.

Hi Nate,

I'll chime in here with a couple thoughts. I've not used Monoprice cable. It is reputed to be very good and very reasonable. I do use and recommend Bluejeans cable speaker cable. I use 12 gauge internally on my speakers and 10 gauge from the amp top the speaker. I've compared it to other wires and I think it sounds great.

Note: I do not believe in voodoo but I can hear a difference in cables. If you go to the beginning of the Statement thread you'll see where I was experiencing some harshness in my system after completing the statements that was corrected by swapping cables and interconnects. I did not hear it with my line arrays but the W4-1337SA are such high resolution, they let you hear more than than most other drivers.

The cables from Monprice are so cheap you have little to lose but they might not be the last cable you use as your system grows. However, it would be extremely hard to rewire the speakers internally. Bluejeans 12 gauge works great and sounds great.

My $.02 worth....

Jim

[NateTTU]

Thanks Jim,

Just so I don't regret it, I will install 12 gauge Blue Jeans cable inside the speakers and for now just use monoprice cable to connect to the amp and later I can upgrade.

As stated before, I'm going to modify the design of the statements slightly and because of Jim's suggestion was thinking of putting the port out the back. However, I have two questions; where should I place the port on the back and does it need support like?



Nate

[Dennis H]

Some of the best (and not too expensive) internal hookup wire is the surplus mil-spec (silver coated copper with teflon insulation) stuff from apex-jr. 14 ga. should be fine as the runs are all short. Single strand wire is more convenient than double strand for wiring crossovers and you can twist two strands together for the runs to the drivers. It comes in colors so you can keep + and - straight.

http://www.apexjr.com/wire.html

[Jim Holtz]

Thanks Jim,

Just so I don't regret it, I will install 12 gauge Blue Jeans cable inside the speakers and for now just use monoprice cable to connect to the amp and later I can upgrade.

As stated before, I'm going to modify the design of the statements slightly and because of Jim's suggestion was thinking of putting the port out the back. However, I have two questions; where should I place the port on the back and does it need support like?



Nate

Hi Nate,

Todd did a superb job on his Statements and didn't leave anything to chance. Honestly, considering the tube length is only 4" plus the flares and there are 6 screws attaching the port. I don't think it'll sag or fall off if you don't add a support. However, it is easy to put a block under a port tube for support if you want.

I used to use the Apex wire Dennis indicated. It's fine wire. However, I've found the Bluejeans to be more convenient since I started using terminal blocks. The wire is easy to tuck behind the edge od foam etc. Either variety will work fine.

Jim

[NateTTU]

I received all my components in the mail today and hopefully this weekend I will begin construction of the statements. However, upon reviewing a few things I have a few questions:

1) On the BOM of the Statements it calls for two 56 uF Jantzen caps. However on the crossover layout I can't find where it is used and instead I find two 60 uF caps that are not listed on the BOM. I'm assuming its just a typo but just want to make sure which value is the typo.

2) Also on the BOM of the Statements it calls for four 3.9 uF Jantzen caps but I can only see one being used on the crossover layout. This uses two of the caps but where do the other two go?

3) I'm going to be installing a rear firing port and need to know how high off the base to install the port.

Thanks,

Nate

[Jim Holtz]

I received all my components in the mail today and hopefully this weekend I will begin construction of the statements. However, upon reviewing a few things I have a few questions:

1) On the BOM of the Statements it calls for two 56 uF Jantzen caps. However on the crossover layout I can't find where it is used and instead I find two 60 uF caps that are not listed on the BOM. I'm assuming its just a typo but just want to make sure which value is the typo.

2) Also on the BOM of the Statements it calls for four 3.9 uF Jantzen caps but I can only see one being used on the crossover layout. This uses two of the caps but where do the other two go?

3) I'm going to be installing a rear firing port and need to know how high off the base to install the port.

Thanks,

Nate

Hi Nate,

Parallel the 56 and the 3.9 cap for the 60 uF cap. The rule of thumb is to have the port away from any boundaries equal to the diameter of the port.

HTH

Jim

[NateTTU]

NateTTU's Statements build thread.....

Construction on the Statements setup began yesterday morning. We have successfully cut all the pieces to width and length and now just lack the cutouts for the drivers and other various holes.

Today we went ahead and glued the 3/4 and 1/2 thick pieces together before creating the driver cutouts. Unfortunately, I don't have access to a plunge router and was wondering if anyone has some advice on how to create the cutouts by using a regular router and circle jig.

I also have a couple more various questions regarding the construction. Do you use any types of nails in addition to glue to hold the mdf together? Also, I'm planning on creating an access panel in the bottom of the back piece and wonder if I need to create this panel so I can always have access to the crossover or just temporarily.

I have taken a few pictures and will hopefully upload a few later.

Thanks,
Nate

[NateTTU]

Would using a 1/2'' 45 deg chamfer over the back edges of both the woofers and midrange drivers cover all my bases? Since the tweeter doesn't seem to send back waves I guess there would be no chamfers here then. Does this all seem to be correct?

On another note, do I need to take into account the thickness of veneer when I create the counter bore depths? How important is it to make the drivers completely flush mounted?

Nate

Edit: What about using a 3/8'' 45 deg chamfer instead? Its only slightly smaller than the 1/2'' but apparently costs half as much at the local hardware store.

[Jim Holtz]

Would using a 1/2'' 45 deg chamfer over the back edges of both the woofers and midrange drivers cover all my bases? Since the tweeter doesn't seem to send back waves I guess there would be no chamfers here then. Does this all seem to be correct?

On another note, do I need to take into account the thickness of veneer when I create the counter bore depths? How important is it to make the drivers completely flush mounted?

Nate

Edit: What about using a 3/8'' 45 deg chamfer instead? Its only slightly smaller than the 1/2'' but apparently costs half as much at the local hardware store.

Hi Nate,

I don't have an exact number for the chamfer on the back of the mids and woofers. Get it opened up as much as possible while leaving enough material to provide a solid seat for the driver and try to leave extra material where the screws attach the driver to the baffle. I hope that makes sense.

I just noticed your edit. I don't think 3/8" is nearly enough. Actually 1/2" is marginal. I've switched to using my 3/4" round over bit on the back of all the drivers except the tweeter of course. It opens it up the best. That bit is spendy but you'll also need it for the vertical round overs on the cabinet.

Get the drivers as close to flush as you can but don't stress over it if they're not perfect. Close will work fine and the speakers will sound great.

Jim

[NateTTU]

Thanks for the help Jim.

I'm not planning on rounding over the edges of mine, they will have a chamfer of around 50 deg (.75 x 1). I may just end up creating some sort of jig that could allow me to use a saber saw to cutout a larger chamfer of 1/2'' or more. One thing I did worry about was the attachment of the speakers to the baffle. Are standard wood screws, say around 1'' long, good enough?

Nate

[Jim Holtz]

Thanks for the help Jim.

I'm not planning on rounding over the edges of mine, they will have a chamfer of around 50 deg (.75 x 1). I may just end up creating some sort of jig that could allow me to use a saber saw to cutout a larger chamfer of 1/2'' or more. One thing I did worry about was the attachment of the speakers to the baffle. Are standard wood screws, say around 1'' long, good enough?

Nate

Hi Nate,

Here is what I use but any #8 deep thread screw will work just fine. I predrill a guide hole and I"ve never had a problem. I have had issues using Hurricane nuts and threaded inserts in the past. I hate those!

The champers on the back don't have to be that complex or pretty. The goal is to open it up around the driver basket so the driver isn't in a tunnel. The smaller the driver, the harder it is and the more important it is. Mark where the screws will go and then use a sabre saw to ventilate the rest of the driver opening in the baffle while leaving a sold shelf for the driver to mate against.

HTH

Jim

[---k---]

Edit: What about using a 3/8'' 45 deg chamfer instead? Its only slightly smaller than the 1/2'' but apparently costs half as much at the local hardware store.

If you're buying router bits, check out MLCSwoodworking.com and Holbren.com . They often are substantially less than local shops. I've used bits from both. They aren't as good as some that cost 4x as much, but I have no complaints from using them with mdf and ply for speakers.

And not my speakers, but I think you want more than a 1/2" chamfer behind the mid. On my recent build, I used a wood rasp (like a file but more aggressive) to open the mids up. Took a very little amount of elbow grease and worked really well. You can pick one up for less than $10 at your favorite big box hardware store.

[Brian Walter]

Nate, I agree with Ryan, a wood rasp works fairly well at rounding over or opening up the back side of a driver opening. I forgot to route mine on my center channel that I just built and had to use the wood rasp after the cabinet was assembled. It still worked, but would have been much easier if I had remembered to do it beforehand.

Drew, I agree with Jim, I hate t-nuts for the very same reason and they don't work very well if you get them too close to the driver cut out. I've never had any problems using sheet metal screws similar to what Jim suggests. Both PE and Madisound sell them as well as a few other mail order outfits. You may even be able to find them at a local hardware store, but not likely in black. You could also check a local fastener store. Did you get the AutoCAD drawings I sent you? If not I can try again.

Brian Walter

[NateTTU]

Thanks for the tips guys. Now not to beat a dead horse, but I went out to the local hardware stores again today to pick up a trim bit and I found a 5/8'' chamfer and 5/8'' round over bit. Just to make the process as easy for my dad and I we would really like to do this with the router instead of the wood rasp or jig saw, though these are still options. With that said, I couldn't even find a 3/4'' router bit at any of the places I went to. So, would one of these 5/8'' options work instead?

Also, its looks like the tunnel to the midrange drivers is going to get in the way of a large chamfer/round over, do the sides of the tunnesl need to be chamfered or anything?

Nate

[Jim Holtz]

Thanks for the tips guys. Now not to beat a dead horse, but I went out to the local hardware stores again today to pick up a trim bit and I found a 5/8'' chamfer and 5/8'' round over bit. Just to make the process as easy for my dad and I we would really like to do this with the router instead of the wood rasp or jig saw, though these are still options. With that said, I couldn't even find a 3/4'' router bit at any of the places I went to. So, would one of these 5/8'' options work instead?

Also, its looks like the tunnel to the midrange drivers is going to get in the way of a large chamfer/round over, do the sides of the tunnels need to be chamfered or anything?

Nate

Nate,

If you have a 5/8" round over bit, try it and see if it's enough when you test fit the drivers. If it's not enough, the rasp idea sounds like it would be a good inexpensive solution. You'll need it to knock the edges off the tunnels so the ribbon will fit. You can also knock off any edges in the mid tunnels with the rasp too.

Jim

[tpremo55]

Nate,

...You'll need it to knock the edges off the tunnels so the ribbon will fit. ....

Jim

Since I took a bunch of pics, I've attached a few here to clarify Jim's point about making room for the ribbons...