Building Workbenches

[TEK]

For a long time, long before the Ardents, I have wanted a good old-fashioned workbench.
When I grow up my grandfather (our neighbour) always had one.
Not long ago, a bit after the "In-kahn-neatos for the livingroom" project was completed, I found a used one. It is a quite simple workbench, well used and has a bit of slack in the wises. However, having it really showed me how much I have missed having one. A good workbench with vices are a invaluable tool in the workshop.
However, I'm wanting a better and nicer one - so I'm out there looking. And, as a DIY'er I'm playing around with the idea of building my own.

I found this one youtube:

I'm just so impressed by the craftmanship put into thay workbench. And as he mention, having such an item build by yourself that will last many years to come must be a really good feeling.
I do not think it's realistic to build this one, and I want one that has a different top - but I was just stunned by the craftmanship and wanted to share it with the others in here.

Any of you that have DIY workbenches?

[knowledgebass]

Working on it. I have lumber in my garage for a Roubo/French bench top. Still sorting out vise. I have a manufactured cheapie bench and the vises don't always snug up well and I chase it around the garage when working rough cut lumber. I hope to finish it this spring. Realities of life are that I'll be happy to finish it this calendar year.

[TEK]

Interesting!
What type of wood are you using? One type for it all, or different types for different areas?

I'm looking at different typed, trying to figure out the differences.
French style?
Seems to have that special side vice going all the way to the floor.

Roubo style? Is the special feature with the roubo style that it has holes for tools down the center?
Same side vice for both styles?


This is the traditional european workbench. This kind of bench is what I'm used to from I was a child. As you can see both the tail vice and the side vice has quite a different construction.
I imagine this is a bit harder to build than a french bench.


I think this is a more modern type of the european workbench. Here the tail vice and the side vice is the same. The top is "just" a square and the vices are mounted on the underside.
I guess this is getting more common as the vices are made out of metal with metal guides instead of wooden guides?


This is my first idea sketch for a top.
There are some features that I'm sure of and some that I'm in doubt about.
I'm sure that I will have a area for tools and so on (shown on the upper area of the drawing).
I'm not sure if I should go for the modern type of vice (both side and tail) or the more traditional type.
I also see some advantages with the french type side vice. Especially for clamping larger plates and simular items.


In the end I think it will come down to traditional vs modern european style bench.
But when it comes to the "I have buildt this and is proud of it" I actally think that the traditional style will be the best choice...

If you look at the modern european typenvs the traditional you can see that the modern has more holes for bench dogs and a lot widere tail vice. I think that is an advantage if you need to clamp down larger flat pices, for example a speaker baffle ;-)

So I'm a bit divided in what to do.
Maybe I must build two ;-)

Edit: just found the naming for one of the features I think is a "must have":
"A tool well that contains tools and components (and prevents them from falling off). One advantage of having the well set into the top of the bench is that, even with a variety of objects in the well, a large sheet of material can still be laid flat over the entire surface of the bench; the contents of the tool well offer no interference."

[Steve Manning]

I love my Roubo style bench that I built a number of years back ....... Got this book which was very helpful in the construction https://play.google.com/store/books/...gKyQ&gclsrc=ds





I made it from Southern Yellow Pine to save some money ...... hard maple is the typical choice, but the pine is holding up well. For hardware I highly recommend these guys, http://benchcrafted.com/ Their stuff is not super cheap but is very well made stuff. They also have plans for benches and a blog that is a nice read for ideas. The guy that owns the company is a phenomenal woodworker.

[TEK]

Thats one nice workbench Steve!
I will continue evaluating my design. I think I will keep my end vise as well as the tool well, but change the front vise with the same type that you have (including that sliding part to add bottom support to panels).

I have read some other articles of Christopher Schwartz, and he seems to know his stuff, even if I do not agree with him about the tool well ;-)

I'm wondering if I should get the book you linked to or the newer one:

https://play.google.com/store/books/details/Christopher_Schwarz_The_Workbench_Design_Book?id=sxB8WbvwbhcC

White pain as well as spurce is easy available here in norway from any wood shop. They are however very soft wood.
I'm thinking about using birch for most of the bench, and maybe american white oak for selected areas, for example around the bench.
But I have to go to the wood supplier here in Trondheim and check out prices for birch before making any decition. I think/hope it is quite resonable priced - from what I have read it was often used in european workbenches as it was easy available and is quite hard.
I have also got some scrap walnut from a stair supplier that I might use at selected areas.

[Steve Manning]

Thats one nice workbench Steve!
I will continue evaluating my design. I think I will keep my end vise as well as the tool well, but change the front vise with the same type that you have (including that sliding part to add bottom support to panels).

I have read some other articles of Christopher Schwartz, and he seems to know his stuff, even if I do not agree with him about the tool well ;-)

I'm wondering if I should get the book you linked to or the newer one:

https://play.google.com/store/books/details/Christopher_Schwarz_The_Workbench_Design_Book?id=sxB8WbvwbhcC

White pain as well as spurce is easy available here in norway from any wood shop. They are however very soft wood.
I'm thinking about using birch for most of the bench, and maybe american white oak for selected areas, for example around the bench.
But I have to go to the wood supplier here in Trondheim and check out prices for birch before making any decition. I think/hope it is quite resonable priced - from what I have read it was often used in european workbenches as it was easy available and is quite hard.
I have also got some scrap walnut from a stair supplier that I might use at selected areas.

Thanks TEK ..... White Pine might be too soft over the long haul. Ash is a good choice as well, my leg vise chop and the end with the Benchcraft vise are ash. I would go for the newer version of the book, though I have not looked at the differences between the two. Benchcraft has plans for different benches as well. You don't always have to buy, but it could give you some ideas.

If you build one let me know I have a cool video on how to flatten the top the easy way ...... I used a hand plane.

[JonMarsh]

I love my Roubo style bench that I built a number of years back ....... Got this book which was very helpful in the construction https://play.google.com/store/books/...gKyQ&gclsrc=ds

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I made it from Southern Yellow Pine to save some money ...... hard maple is the typical choice, but the pine is holding up well. For hardware I highly recommend these guys, http://benchcrafted.com/ Their stuff is not super cheap but is very well made stuff. They also have plans for benches and a blog that is a nice read for ideas. The guy that owns the company is a phenomenal woodworker.

I've got a store bought version, from Rockler I think, made of Beech, and I love it- it is just super. Got it before starting the Isiris project. It's a real pain to move (heavy!) but worth every penny and oz.

[TEK]

Steve, could you post a picture of the bottom part of your leg vise?

Opposit to knowledgebase I think I will start out by finding the vises to use. For the end vise I thinking about using the Veritas Twin-screw vise.

http://www.fine-tools.com/pdf/twinscrewvise-en.pdf

[Steve Manning]

Steve, could you post a picture of the bottom part of your leg vise?

Opposit to knowledgebase I think I will start out by finding the vises to use. For the end vise I thinking about using the Veritas Twin-screw vise.
http://www.fine-tools.com/pdf/twinscrewvise-en.pdf

Here you go ..... I used Benchcrafted design and made my own for a lot less. It might be as smooth as theirs but it holds rather well ......

[knowledgebass]

I'm planning to forgo the tail vise. I briefly had myself talked into a traditional tail vise (vs. Wagon). Look up Nyquist tail vise for the style I was thinking. Tools For Working Wood has a good pro-tail vise Blog post too. I read some posts by the English Woodworker that convinced me I don't want or need one. At the very less I can always add a tail vise later (wagon could be more difficult). At one point I was also thinking of a twin screw face vise. My parents have an old bench built by a great-uncle with a leg vise that I grew up using so I think it will be comfortable going back to that.

I've got about 100 board feet of wormy (aka soft aka ambrosia) maple for the project. I started out thinking I'd do an English/joiners bench but think I've got enough for top and stretchers in the French style. I'll need different wood for the legs and leg vise chop.

For the leg vise, I'm planning to do a pinless version using a linear motion bearing as discussed here:

http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/articles/roubo-workbench-leg-vise-alternative-linear-bearings/

I'm about half way through the Schwarz bench book that I was able to get at the library. I own Lon Schleining's book which has a lot of good details too (but no actual designs). The revised Schwarz book has two new designs for the English (breakdown) and French (through tenon and sliding dovetail top) benches for a total of two versions of each style.

The shoulder vise and twin screw vises actually have similar strengths so you might be well served with a tail vise if you go with a the shoulder vise.

The Bench Crafted hardware is pretty but I actually lust for the Hovarter hardware.

http://www.hovartercustomvise.com

And the Lake Erie Too works wood screws.
The currency exchange really puts a premium on the nice made in USA hardware right now. So roll my own it is. I may attempt to do a wood screw so I'll need to make that decision soon. I could see it see it adding months to the build

[TEK]

I have also noticed the pinless version of the leg vise.
I found it here: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qI38vYEYOe0
Have you find anywhere to buy it, or are you planning on get a wooden screw and build the sliding mechanism yourself?
I like the usa style turning wheels when it comes to function. Not so shure when it comes to look, at least not as lomg as I'm going to have regular handles on the twin vise.

I have been wondering a lot about what features to put into a workbench.
As you can see from my early sketch, I have also been thinking about adding a face twin vise.
However, I think I'm getting somewhere now.
- sturdy design (roubo/french)
- tool well
- twin end vice
- quite many holes for clamping/bench dogs
- leg vise and sliding deadman

But I just bought the book - so we'll see if I change my mind again...

Edit: I found this video blog.

http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/25851

Making a wooden screw seems a lot more doable than what I initial was thinking

[knowledgebass]

I have also noticed the pinless version of the leg vise.
I found it here: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qI38vYEYOe0

Yeah that's Richard McGuire, aka the English Woodworker. His is the first example I saw but I've not seen him fully discuss the materials he uses and he's no longer selling benches or vises. I think he did have a post discussing the angle he sets the rod at.

In terms of parts. Lee Valley carries a vise screw that is really affordable (and won't take months to make). The linear bearing parts I can get from a store based on Canada called Enco. Looks like it will cost about $120CDN. McMaster Carr in the US is another similar source for those state side. Internationally I'm not sure. I see a lot of parts on eBay and Amazon which can probably be found internationally too. Basically I've been able to find what I need searching for "linear motion bearing" and "linear shafting". They are parts used in cnc type machines.

You can also find parts for the vise screw searching for acme threaded rod and nuts. I couldn't really figure out how to affordably complete the screw DIY.

The wooden screw can be made from a really expensive tap and die set from Germany (~€1,000). Or for a few bucks and a few weeks from shop made versions.

https://youtu.be/4ZmnGLpqAGI

[TEK]

I'm getting a bit fasinated by the idea of making my own solid wood screws and nuts, ref the video we both linked to (I think you posted your while I was editing my post ;-))

It is of course an option to go really old school and make the twin vise using wood screws as well. Either going totally old school and build a wooden chain as well, oryou could sheet a bit and use a regular chain and some bicycle parts and hide it behind a wooden cover...

This may take some time :W
Maybe I should scale it down and make a separate "making a wood screw" project

about $120CDN. McMaster Carr in the US is another similar source for those state side. Internationally I'm not sure.

That price seems very high.
Linar bearings is a regular bearing. The usage we are talking about here is very simple compared to when used in mechanical machines. In norwegian this is called "nålelager" and a search got prices in the range from 5 to 15 usd. Larger ones probably cost a bit more, but for this use it should be possible to find them quite cheap.

Do you have any info regarding the angel of the bearing?

[Steve Manning]

This is the vise screw that I used http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...59,41661,41664. I got the wheels from Harbor Freight for about $5 and a few bucks more for pins for the wheels to ride on and screws at Lowes. I think the Benchcraft version at the time was ~$300. I do like the idea of their newer version without the pin you were talking about TEK.

[knowledgebass]

This is the vise screw that I used http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...59,41661,41664. I got the wheels from Harbor Freight for about $5 and a few bucks more for pins for the wheels to ride on and screws at Lowes. I think the Benchcraft version at the time was ~$300. I do like the idea of their newer version without the pin you were talking about TEK.

Short of making a wooden screw, that's the one I'm planning on using.

[TEK]

I did some checking and found bearing with 10mm internal diameter for 9 usd, 1,5meter, 10mm round steel rod for 12 usd.
So if the steel rod is attached directly to the wood, and the bearing also fitted directly that should be enough.
So, with a wooden vice and such a metal rod, you could build your own excellent leg vise for wood and 20 usd.

So, now I only need to get myself a lathe to create the base for the wooden screw ;-)

[knowledgebass]

I did some checking and found bearing with 10mm internal diameter for 9 usd, 1,5meter, 10mm round steel rod for 12 usd.
So if the steel rod is attached directly to the wood, and the bearing also fitted directly that should be enough.
So, with a wooden vice and such a metal rod, you could build your own excellent leg vise for wood and 20 usd.

So, now I only need to get myself a lathe to create the base for the wooden screw ;-)

I think you'd want something heavier. I was looking for 30 mm as referenced in the Wood Whisperer thread but 1 inch/25.4 mm is far more common here so that's probably where I'll end up. It needs to resist the bending moment so 10 mm would probably have no issue at 18 mm, but a 10 mm bar might struggle with the moment at 300 mm clamping distance.

[TEK]

I think you'd want something heavier. I was looking for 30 mm as referenced in the Wood Whisperer thread but 1 inch/25.4 mm is far more common here so that's probably where I'll end up. It needs to resist the bending moment so 10 mm would probably have no issue at 18 mm, but a 10 mm bar might struggle with the moment at 300 mm clamping distance.

Ahh, that's going to cost a bit more - and be a bit harder to find I suspect.

Another alernative:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=338U49EtWso

Or you could of course select different solution, like the cross:
DIY version: http://www.instructables.com/id/Para...ross/?ALLSTEPS

[Steve Manning]

Glad to see others going to the Wood Whisperer site ...... the guy has some good information to offer.

[Renron]

Ebay 30mm linear bearing $14.25 USD shipped

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LMF30UU-30mm-Round-Flange-Linear-Bearing-Ball-Bushing-30x45x64mm-CNC-Parts/110777199508?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D36188%26meid%3D8c0316c0af154c4d9eafc7d98b3f943d%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D300624676857

Sheesh, that's a long link.
Ron

[knowledgebass]

Ebay 30mm linear bearing $14.25 USD shipped

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LMF30UU-30mm-Round-Flange-Linear-Bearing-Ball-Bushing-30x45x64mm-CNC-Parts/110777199508?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D36188%26meid%3D8c0316c0af154c4d9eafc7d98b3f943d%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D300624676857

Sheesh, that's a long link.
Ron

I haven't been able to find a 30 mm linear motion shaft/rod. At least not in a reasonable length for a price I can afford

[Renron]

12" is ~$25

http://www.vxb.com/Hollow-Shaft-Pipe-30mm-12-Long-Linear-Motion-p/kit7712.htm

15 3/4" is ~ $30

https://www.zoro.com/thomson-shaft-carbon-steel-30-mm-400-mm-30mm-soft-ctl-x-400mm/i/G3439064/?gdffi=047ada998cf641fa93e55ae8579df863&gdfms=996E2D10AB0A40C283A1D7FDB7DC55D5&gclid=Cj0KEQjwz-i3BRDtn53Z5Z7t4PUBEiQA23q2AJEskF6AyxCrBjPBBwC_KBHX3lBq9hDF9eWZ1uRSitAaAiVU8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds

How long does it need to be?
Ron

[knowledgebass]

Won't know for sure until I have the screw. The the threaded portion of the screw is 18", with 15.5" usable (from memory so assume approximate), so at least 18", probably safer with 20" to maintain full screw capacity (my assumption is it needs to be fully passed through the bearing for braking action to engage safely or there is risk that the end will bite into a bearing and cause damage). Appreciate the research. The lengths I've found are $100+.

[knowledgebass]

I should clarify that what I don't know is the thickness of the chop I'll use, or dimension of the leg or length of the bearing which all kind of come into play for what the final length needs to be. My gut feeling is that it needs to be at least as long as the threaded rod. However, thinking it through a bit more the linear rod doesn't need to penetrate the chop like the threaded rod, and the bearing can be placed on the front side of the leg (it's compressed, not in tension like the threaded rod) so that could save a few inches. When looking at it like that 12 inches is getting closer to being enough.... Hmmmm....

[TEK]

Have you seen or heard any review of this solution over time?
I'm a bit suprised that they do not seem to sell this any more and have to wonder if it might be related to issues when used over time.
Would add some confidence to have verified sources that have used such a solution, preferrable over several years.

[JonMarsh]

Building Workbenches

To collect the off topic posts on building workbenches into a logical area

[TEK]

Jon: Thanks for moving this out in a separate thread.

Regarding the leg-vice.
Hmm, I'm leaning more in the direction of this solution:



It's a regular twin vice and a sliding deadman.
The sliding deadman can be moved all the way below the vise so that you might take a pice of wood down the center of the vice (between the vice support rods) and support the end of it on the deadman.



I do not imidiatly see any disadvantages with this design compared to a foot-vise. This design also gives you a wider and, I think, a face vise that can have a broader usage.
Do any others see something I do not see?

(pictures is from Workbench Feature and Specs, a follow up on the first video I posted)

[knowledgebass]

The leg vise configuration results in a lever action at the top of the vise with the screw as the fulcrum which should allow for a tighter grip. There is also more clearance above the screw on a leg vise so it has less width capacity but greater depth capacity. This results in a better hold for edge working. The dual screw should be better for end grain work like hand cutting dovetails. All of this likely academic with most people likely figuring out a way to work around any limitations of their setups before they even know there is something suboptimal.

[TEK]

I planned to initial build my bench in birch.
However, I just found a dude that has a lot of beech that he wants to sell for a nice price to make room for other stuff. 2 1/2" x 4" to 2 1/2" x 8" boards.
A little drive away, but I plan to go there this weekend to source up on some beech wood for the bench.
Following the advice of using what is easy/cheap and available, and now beech suddenly is available.

I think beech will be a great material to build workbenches from. I have noticed that a lot of the produced workbenches is made of beech - so this should be good.

So now I have until the weekend to figure out where to make room for the materials...

The source:

[BobEllis]

That's a lot of workbench.

[TEK]

That's a lot of workbench.

That's the source - I will just pick some of them boards - I hope 8O

[dar47]

Okay, I see trestle dinning tables 10 seaters, coffee tables, end tables, etc... Tek don't tell anyone of this source if news were to get out! 8)

[TEK]

Having a lunch stip at a little roadtrip with my daughter (the middel one)



Getting lumber for the workbench (and probably for a LOT more :-)



And after the lunch wefound this parked next to us


Hmm...
My original tought was to use birch for most of the bench, and american white oak for the vises'. When I found this source for beech wood I thought that it was approximate the same as birch.
Now, when I'm checking a bit I actually find that beech seems to be a lot harder.
A staircase manufactor sorts the wood types like this after how hard they are:
- Beech
- Walnut
- Oak
- Birch
- Pine
Maybe American white oak is a bit harder than regular oak - I don't know.
Anyway, this deal seems even better than I first tought. Going to be a tough workbench :-)

[Steve Manning]

Nice stack of wood TEK ..... sounds like it was a fun day.

[Renron]

The restaurant looks very much like what we call a "Mom and Pop's" in America. There is one a few kilometers away that has the best turkey, bacon and avocado sandwiches on homemade bread.............yum! Nice looking wood pile, sharpen your planer blades and get a new saw blade. I'm sure it will be an awesome bench when you finish.
Ron

[TEK]

Waiting for the saw you know...
Thinking about getting a electrical planer/thiknesser - currently I do not own one. Just hand planers ;-)
(Buth both manual and electrical)

[TEK]

I'm trying to make my own wooden vice screws and nuts for my "soon-to-be-made" workbench (where soon is within the next couple of years ;-).
Working on making the tap to create the nut. My first attemt only turned out 50% ok because I made the tap a bit to small for the hole.
Currently trying to do it one more time - a bit more accurate this time.

However, I wonder if there is any tip on what to use to make wood-on-wood move easy. I saw someone comment on that wax could be used. However, there seems to be 1000 different types of was - so I'm not sure about what wax it was referred to.

Do anyone have some suggestion about products to use to get wood-on-wood to glide good

[Steve Manning]

I use paraffin wax on the bottom of my hand planes and other shop tools ..... might be worth a try.

[John Monica]

Quick rundown on waxes. Carnauba is a wax derived from Palm leaves. It has the highest melting temperature which is often important in friction operations and car finishes. Paraffin is a petroleum product that is cheap and suitable. Silicone waxes are to be avoided because they interfere with finishes and epoxy, unlike Carnauba.

Pure Carnuaba with solvents is found in good car waxes, they brag about it. Cheap car waxes are Silicone based. Read the fine print they are often mixed. Carnuaba is also found in furniture waxes (Briwax and Buffalo) with more aggressive solvents to strip the underlying wax.

The solvent of choice for wax is alcohol.

Finally, avoid floor waxes as there are ingredients added that make them non-slippery.

As an aside, Shoe polish wax comes from the purifying of shellac.



-Hope that helps, good luck.

[Renron]

Tek,
For years and years I have used Johnson's Paste Wax on friction surfaces. I even use it on the top face of my Delta Unisaw to ease the friction of boards I'm ripping. Never bothers any finish applied later. Although I wouldn't wax then try to top coat finish any surface. Duh.
Johnson's Paste Wax for wood or Saw Tops.
For metal to metal I use Frog Lube. Not sure if it is compatable with stains or finishes, but it's edible and smells nice (not designed for woodwork)

Ron

[TEK]

Thanks, good input!
I think I will test this (it's available in Norway and contains carnuaba)

http://www.liberon.co.uk/wax-finishes/black-bison-paste-wax,434,464.html?&args=Y29tcF9pZD0zMDQmYWN0aW9uPWZpY2hlUHJvZHVpdCZpZD0xODYmfA%3D%3D

Ron: I have not seen those brands over here.

[TEK]

Wooden nut in the making...
I think it's working out ok :-) Of course no way to say for sure before I have made the screew as well.

[Renron]

Oh that's just too wicked cool!
My hat is off to you my friend!
Awesome attention to details.

Ron

[TEK]

Thanks Ron :-)
I have now got my first DIY vice screew as well.


The experience so far is that this is doable.
What worries me most is how to get from a "decent" result (it works) to a high quality result with more even treads in both the nut and the scruw, as well as a tighter fit between the screw and the nut.
Don't misunderstand. I'm quite sure scruve, as it sits, will work great as it is -
But it feels like there are a lot of stuff that can be done to improve on the result.

[dar47]

A fine whittle indeed! By hand that is a great result, what do the machined ones go for?