Saint-Saëns planar- AKA SMJ-40- time for a project now?

[JonMarsh]

Slow work takes time, but now the MF-HF module front baffles are nearly ready for assembly of the cabinet.

Sanding the midrange bevel and a little bit of wood fill and sanding remain. It was a lot of work to get to this point- no CNC in this household!





All the tops, bottoms and backs are cut out; next major tasks are the side panels and internal braces.

[JonMarsh]

It was cloudy and lots of dry thunderstorms this morning, so I figured it would be a good time to get the side panels rough cut to size.

As always, I'm the wires and sparks guy, not the expert woodworker, so don't take this seriously as a guide to how to get things done. My lessons are all from Kaptain Kluge and his trusty minion!




The key thing for working with this job site saw is setup and having the auxiliary support ready- my home made adjustable height feed table, and two outfield runner rigs.




Here, we're setup for ripping the panels to a bit over 24" width, as used for the depth of both the LF and MF-HF modules.






MF-HF module side walls need to be cut to a bit over 19" height,




after all the side walls are rough cut, of course it's nice to stack them out of the way...

[JonMarsh]

As things get closer to assembly, more details have to be fished out- this update for the drawings is just for a possible rear firing tweeter (GRS RT1.0) and the input connector and control panel.

[JonMarsh]

Some other updates...


The midrange enclosure design has been updated slightly, using "leftover" 1" BB ply in place of 3/4" panels for the sides and back:





And, one more tweeter is being added to this planar test batch of the NeoD Deep Cup, and my PT2522MOD5. This will be the GRS RT1.0-8. This is a ribbon tweeter, look like GRS bought out another company and is sort of tweaking stuff.






For me, this is for the possible rear firing application. Which would be a 1st order roll off from 10kHz down to 5kHz, and much steeper below that. At least, that's the plan of record.

Factory curves:



Should be here by Thursday.

If this SPL data is accurate, it looks like a first order roll off starting at 20kHz might even work nicely, with some tweaks below that. I should take the ZMA and FRD files and investigate them this afternoon.

[technodanvan]

Looks like a nice little tweeter. Heatsink reminds me of Fountek.

[JonMarsh]

With an updated midrange enclosure design, with the surfeit of 1" bamboo, that was what I cut out this morning

Of course, we "Trust CAD, but Verify Parts!"






This includes alignment for the vertical fitment with top panel equivalent in place and checking opening alignment.

A biscuit joiner will be used for the assembly of these parts along with some kind of ludicrously strong epoxy, because, why not?




The key tools for the 2nd Skin Damplifier pads are set of heavy duty Milwaukee scissors to cut them out, and a roller tool for the application pressure for the adhesive side.







The heavy felt pads facing into the enclosure have to be glued on to the 2nd skin metal surface; putting a pair together face to face makes clamping easy peasy....





These particular ones are with the 3/4" heavy felt for the back panels of the midrange enclosures.

[dar47]

If there is any new money for wood working tools, you should push the easy button and add a track saw for large panel break down. You do look like your in the fun zoon though!

[JonMarsh]

I do have a track saw, two actually, but these panels were "only" 48" x 30", so seemed manageable with my multi-mode table and out feed tables.

Yeah, I'd say I'm in the "fun zone" too, and have followed a development and construction plan where I've been addressing the big picture stuff first to get started and getting things in progress, and doing detail development on some design "issues" just as they're coming in the "production queue".

Also enjoying some of the new "tools" quite a bit, that includes Shapr3D on the CAD side, and my SawStop saw on the production side, which is hands down the best table saw I've owned, functionality wise. And those Bosch routers... and my Bosch dual bevel sliding miter saw, in a class by itself, IMO. Us old school poor folks have to make the most of conventional tools, no CNC in this shop!

[JonMarsh]

Slow work takes time, but eventually gets done!


This is the nearly complete kit of parts for assembling the midrange sub-enclosures- UPS should deliver some needed electrical parts today for this, according to the last update I have.

[Steve Manning]

If there is any new money for wood working tools, you should push the easy button and add a track saw for large panel break down. You do look like your in the fun zoon though!

Completely agree Darrell .... I did just exactly that for some 5' X 8' sheets of MDF!

[dar47]

Wow Steve the shop looks great! I like that you decided to OSB line your shop, makes things a little darker but so easy to hang anything. Mine is as well.

[Steve Manning]

Wow Steve the shop looks great! I like that you decided to OSB line your shop, makes things a little darker but so easy to hang anything. Mine is as well.

Thanks Darrell ..... one of the main reasons for going with the OSB, that and cost. The LED lights take care of things if I need things nice and bright.

[JonMarsh]

Now I have all the small tweeters on hand for testing- hopefully some time this weekend- for both them and the re-test for the Visaton Waveguide assembly in the new test fixture.

Besides the mundane parts of life taking up a lot of time in the summer, I am refining the construction implementation and updating documentation for pieces due to be fabricated soon- like the side panels for the LF cabinets, left panel shown here. This has involved things like getting new router bits in sizes I don't usually have on hand, like 25/32" and 1-1/4".





One of the things I really appreciate about Shapr3D is the frequent and useful updates- often I've been thinking about how "Gee, I wish this item worked this way... and in a few weeks, they do it, slipped into the uπgrade path via the Apple App Store.

A major user interface upgrade is in progress for the end of the summer, which will also allow selecting the interface mode you prefer to work in- including a new version of the desktop interface designed for larger displays (like mine!), with more options and information on screen at the same time, in comparison to the original mobile interface which adjusts to what you're doing and minimizes the command interface to keep the working space as large as possible.




More electrical parts on the way... some getting here Saturday, some Monday. Needed for next assembly steps and updating the crossovers.

[JonMarsh]

OK, just another update on grinding the sausage, refinement of some mechanical details as I evaluate before carving up wood and after ordering more mechanical parts! I'm also debating whether to use BB ply for the internal braces or go with the originally planned bamboo boards- have both on hand. The Bamboo would be less work (no big sheets to handle- that might tip the scales on my decision!).

Rear bottom entry reduced in size because crossovers can be installed/serviced via Passive Radiator openings, as in my home built Ardent D's (which are also due for an update soon)


Right front quarter, CAD view




Right front quarter, Render




Right rear quarter, CAD View




Right rear quarter, Render

[JonMarsh]

Note, a few further tweaks on the front to back braces are being considered...

[JonMarsh]

Still grinding the sausage- a lot of small tasks that take time. (warning to potential constructors!)

Mounted binding posts in the bottom panels of the midrange sub enclosure

Glued up the damper panels with the Weicon 310M adhesive onto the sides and back for the MF-HF module...






Did some additional trim and fine sanding on the MH-HF module front panels down to 220 grit- they're ready for the module assembly





Yes, there are some natural flaws in the 1/4" thick maple panels I got from Woodcraft- -filled and sanded.

You know, I figure that most of the time I'll be listening to these, I'll have my eyes closed anyway...


😏


We should be ready for the biscuit joiner and putting together the midrange sub enclosures tomorrow- and routing the back panels. If that all gets done, then it's on to the MF-HF upper module cabinet assembly - (cross fingers)

I'm focusing on the top modules for now to get them hooked up and tested with the built POC crossovers- make sure (hopefully) there aren't any unexpected surprises.

[JonMarsh]

More grinding the sausage today...

The first midrange enclosure glued up yesterday was unclamped, and the second one was glued and clamped. The wall damping panels had already been installed and allowed to set for 24 hours before these steps were started.




The binding posts for the midrange connection need to be re-installed.



Next was the last detailing wood working for the front panels- routing the connector passthrough for the TPL75. Here's front and rear views of the TPL75 AMT tweeter:






The necessary cut out is made using the Bosch 1617EV plunge router setup with the template adapter and a 1/2" solid carbide bit from Woodpecker, using a custom fabricated phenolic sheet template to guide the router on the top side and bottom side passes. The top side pass does not completely route the hole, as there is the clearance for the template guide.






A 1/4" solid carbide shear trim bit with 1-1/2" cutting depth was used from the backside to take out the rest of the passthrough width and depth, following the template.






And of course the "fit check", which as expected is snug as a bug in a rug, as the old saying goes.

[technodanvan]

Maybe I'm just tired, but I can't stop seeing this as a tiny landscape drawing.

[JonMarsh]

Maybe I'm just tired, but I can't stop seeing this as a tiny landscape drawing.

Very good! The artist in you surfaces and needs to stretch its wings! but you know, I'm inclined to agree!


Now, on a more practical note, a few asked for clarification on the 2nd routing step- the first is more obvious in the context of what has previously been shared.

The 2nd step is done with the template in the same position, but with a long narrow shear trim bit (solid carbide; I'm turning into a solid carbide bit snob the more I use them), and from the opposite (back) side:





Yes, this bit has a 1-1/2" cutting depth. And the 1/4" diameter of the roller area gives it great tracking resolution on the template, but with just the round over I wanted. Note the differences between the first cut through from the top with the 1/2" template bit and the final cutout with the 1/4" trim bit.

[JonMarsh]

The binding posts have been re-installed and now the first midrange enclosure is ready to mount on a front panel...

BTW, a socket wrench is very handy for installing the binding posts.




At least, that's what my minion tells me!

[technodanvan]

Interesting, you're not going to use solder for that connection? I always thought that was recommended for most enclosures. Granted, in this one you could probably access these binding posts by removing a passive radiator.

Are those Viborg posts?

[JonMarsh]

Yes, those are Viborg posts, the copper ones with Rhodium plating. Gold hardware.

There will be short pigtails inside the mid sub enclosure going from gold plated ring terminals to the PT5010, which will be soldered (Cardas of course) on both ends. Plated spade lugs to the binding post connectors back to the crossover,

No worries about running a cable through the mid sub enclosure and sealing it. The Mid sub enclosure is the only “acoustic” space in the cabinet. And apart from the mounting to the front panel is not connected to any other cabinet wall.

BTW, the mid enclosures do much better on the Knuckle rap test than the first ones without the double damping layers. Could they be better? Well, I don’t have a Rockport budget! I have hopes…

[JonMarsh]

Interesting, you're not going to use solder for that connection? I always thought that was recommended for most enclosures. Granted, in this one you could probably access these binding posts by removing a passive radiator.

Are those Viborg posts?

This mounts in the upper module which is just midrange and high frequencies. No passive radiators. OTOH, there will be a signal and control panel on the back which can be removed to access crossovers and connections.

[technodanvan]

Oh right, separate cabs and all. My bad.

[JonMarsh]

Well, I swear there's a conspiracy. of Honey-Do's, shoe repair, and home maintenance and family topics trying to keep me from doing speaker work!

So what's a guy going to do other than getting up at 4AM on a Sunday to squeeze in a bit of effort...

Starting assembly on the top module cabinets, still need to route the back panels, but the templates are fabricated, a few new bits bought, and I'm setting up my newer Hitachi 12MV2 for some specific high stability tasks.

But biscuit joiners and epoxy glue are not exactly rocket science, at least not for my minion...




Just gotta pay attention to the finer details so that everything goes together as planned. One step at a time (remember, wires and sparks guy, no wood working maven here!). This is joining the top panel to the front panel...next will be one of the sides, then the bottom.







#10 biscuits work pretty well to keep edges aligned, and the angle tool doesn't have much to do other than verifying matters.

[JonMarsh]

For all you minions out there, this should go without saying, but ALWAYS dry fit your biscuit work before getting the glue out.

[JonMarsh]

Well, the garage workshop heating up wasn't going too badly, so I decided to glue the right side panel on after lunch.

Three biscuits on the front panel edge, and two at the back of the right panel to top panel, at 3" and 10", just to keep it lined up and prevent drift while clamping.




I need to route the back panels next, hopefully first thing tomorrow morning after breakfast (getting too hot in the garage in the afternoon for an aging curmudgeon)- 95 here now, should be up at 100 by 4.

As Steve advises, I need to get a split for the garage, but also to insulate the doors. The walls already are. But at this point, I need to spend the money on construction materials first!

[JonMarsh]

Slow work takes time department...

Mid-HF module back panel template jigs- the outer rebate on the left, just cut and glued up, and the inner cut through template, fabricated last week. Both from Leecraft BK1 phenolic sheets (1/2" thick)




The cut through one will be used with Bosch router equipped with template jig for initial pass; the rebate one will be used with a flush trim follower bit.

Of course, Steve would just do it all with CNC!

😜

[JonMarsh]

Well, one thing this project has definitely enabled me to do is to dip into my stores of tools bought earlier and put on hold due to life's travails... today's case is the Metabo/Hitachi M12V2 that got unpacked and assembled and setup. Metabo bought out Hitachi around 2018, and this is their updated version of my other favorite big *** router with a few new features and standard accessories (like template router support).



Even with it's 3-1/4 HP it's still probably not a match for the big bad boy Steve has, but hey, I'm doing the best I can!


Like the Hitachi M12V predecessor, it is super smooth and has oodles of torque even when the speed is dialed way down to favor smooth clean cuts over speed.


For the first cabinet glued up, I'd prioritized the base panel alignment, and since the side panels are deliberately cut a bit over, planned to due a flush trim aligned with the top.





Just to mix things up, I reversed that for the second cabinet! Experiment! But I have to put the base on before I can trim that one. I think that works a bit better, as regards assuring good cosmetics.

[JonMarsh]

Running out of working space to glue up more things, but went ahead with gluing in the floor of one of the Mid-HF cabinets. If I was an influencer, I suppose this is where I'd mention the battery powered Makita biscuit joiner I'm using these days that I really like. But I'm not, so I won't.


But I will give a shout out to the local minions making this all possible, keeping Kaptain Kluge on the straight and narrow (well, mostly, I've seen a few curvy bits here and there...)

[JonMarsh]

Speaking of things that are worth a bit of a shout out, I'm going to bring up the new (to me) dual mode reusable sanding blocks from Diablo. In my opinion, Diablo is the first to really do a thoughtful job on a sanding block, most of which leave me frustrated and annoyed when I think I have to resort to one.













Now, I was thinking to create a bullet list of what I like, but this descriptive picture really covers it well. Maybe a few more comments are in order...

• The dual foam (hard and soft cushioned) both work rather well in my opinion- I've had cause to use both modes, and I give it a thumbs up!
• There are two versions, coming with different selections of the "SandNet(TM)" sheets- for what I do, the coverage going from 80 grit to 220 works well, but there's a fine grit version too, that I will likely want to pick up.
• The actual "SandNet(TM)" material works a lot like Mirka Abranet, which means for me it's top flight- you can blow out stuff like hardened epoxy drippings and just put it back on the block- the standard retail packaging seems to be two pieces of each grit rating.

[Steve Manning]

Well, one thing this project has definitely enabled me to do is to dip into my stores of tools bought earlier and put on hold due to life's travails... today's case is the Metabo/Hitachi M12V2 that got unpacked and assembled and setup. Metabo bought out Hitachi around 2018, and this is their updated version of my other favorite big *** router with a few new features and standard accessories (like template router support).



Even with it's 3-1/4 HP it's still probably not a match for the big bad boy Steve has, but hey, I'm doing the best I can!


Like the Hitachi M12V predecessor, it is super smooth and has oodles of torque even when the speed is dialed way down to favor smooth clean cuts over speed.


For the first cabinet glued up, I'd prioritized the base panel alignment, and since the side panels are deliberately cut a bit over, planned to due a flush trim aligned with the top.





Just to mix things up, I reversed that for the second cabinet! Experiment! But I have to put the base on before I can trim that one. I think that works a bit better, as regards assuring good cosmetics.

Actually this one of yours is a fare bit more powerful. The one I showed you is only the 2.25 hp model.



Now they do make a 3.25 hp model, but I saved that size for my router table.

[Steve Manning]

Speaking of things that are worth a bit of a shout out, I'm going to bring up the new (to me) dual mode reusable sanding blocks from Diablo. In my opinion, Diablo is the first to really do a thoughtful job on a sanding block, most of which leave me frustrated and annoyed when I think I have to resort to one.













Now, I was thinking to create a bullet list of what I like, but this descriptive picture really covers it well. Maybe a few more comments are in order...

• The dual foam (hard and soft cushioned) both work rather well in my opinion- I've had cause to use both modes, and I give it a thumbs up!
• There are two versions, coming with different selections of the "SandNet(TM)" sheets- for what I do, the coverage going from 80 grit to 220 works well, but there's a fine grit version too, that I will likely want to pick up.
• The actual "SandNet(TM)" material works a lot like Mirka Abranet, which means for me it's top flight- you can blow out stuff like hardened epoxy drippings and just put it back on the block- the standard retail packaging seems to be two pieces of each grit rating.

I need to check these out 👍

[JonMarsh]

Had a rap with one of the Ace Hardware guys while picking up stuff for lunch, we talked about these and he agreed that it’s taken 75 years for someone to finally put some thought into sanding blocks and come up with a good reusable multi-purpose design with top flight sanding material comparable to Mirka Abranet but at a more reasonable price…

[JonMarsh]

And yeah, I picked up some packages of individual grit ratings, and one more sponge, too… but won’t eat them for lunch!

[JonMarsh]

This morning's target task was routing the rebates for the 3/8" phenolic input panel on the back panel of the MF-HF upper modules prior to gluing them into the module assembly.


A template guide was previously constructed from 1/2" Leecraft phenolic sheet as the routing guide...





The router body from the template guide dedicated 1617EVS was pulled and the Freud half inch shank 3/4" cut mortising follower bit installed:




Half inch shank bits of this type are not common, but I preferred it for the large router to avoid changing out the shank clamp for the smaller 1/4" size. The base on 1/4" shank routers are not generally wide enough to provide the necessary stability, in my limited experience.



Rear panels had already been marked up, one with the possible rear tweeter cut out. At this point I checked the amount of 3/8" phenolic I have on hand with the same finish, and the plan of record now is to cut two sets of panels, and if I decide to "upgrade" to adding the rear tweeters (GRS Ribbon) I will swap out the phenolic rear input panels.





Part way through the initial routing I realized that I could change my clamping and hold down setup, and be able to do complete routing passes...

This wasn't possible in the through hole cutting phase.





The rebate was done in two passes, removing 3/16" of material on each pass- remember, this is hard rock maple, not MDF.


The final result is as planned... with a cut depth just a smidge over 3/8". Remember, there is no acoustic loading on the main interior of this cabinet.

[JonMarsh]

Of course, a rear panel isn't much use unless it's installed on the cabinet- this involved:

• Sanding all of the mating surfaces with 80 grit to assure a clean slightly rough surface for good adhesion for the epoxy
• Sand and clean up the outside of the back panel
• a couple of biscuit joiners on the top of the rear panel to assure alignment is fixed
• The bottom alignment of the rear panel is by design and the precision dimensioning of the bottom panel. (see CAD stuff if curious)
• Clamping in three dimensions.
• The 4th is setting time- I like to use slow set epoxy because they are generally stronger and adhere better than the fast setting types. The ultimate for that is marine epoxy, but I don't know of any clear or clear amber epoxy formulations based on marine epoxy chemicals- my favorite for that kind of work these days is standard setting time JB Weld, but it winds up dark gray- not good for exterior cabinet work unless you're paining or veneering over the initial construction, which I'm not doing here- these are essentially just plywood boxes that will be sanded smooth and finished with Danish oil and a sealer product. KISS concept.

Next up before installing the last side wall will be fabricating the input panel and connector setup, creating and installing wire harnesses for driver and crossover interconnection, and probably checking the acoustic performance of the crossovers and drivers in this cabinet before tackling the final finish work (which DOES mean I'll have to unload the drivers of course... I'm still mulling what sequence of steps to use. I'm itching to move on to the LF cabinet assembly, but I'll try not to cut any corners at this phase of things.
I may just clamp on the last side panel, after installing wiring harnesses, and if it seems easy enough to work on stuff through the rear panel (cross fingers) then just go ahead and do the assembly and finishing first. And yes, the crossover boards fit through just fine!

[JonMarsh]

Friday Fun-Day is here! TGIF!


But that doesn't mean we can slack off, au contraire!


Many small relevant tasks on the agenda today, but here's a quick rundown on the early morning woodworking...


Re-checking the crossover pass through for the midrange, real life as opposed to CAD life...





This should give you an idea of the approximate position in the cabinet which I planned...





The HF crossover is to be mounted on the opposite wall.


I checked front access for the midrange binding posts again, and decided all is a go for mounting the 2nd side wall.

Here are the biscuit joiner positions I used for "calibrating" the alignment to the front and top- the bottom side is trimmed with a router, and the back side was already cut to 1/32".




Of course, I always do a dry fit check before applying epoxy, my minions will scream and fuss at me if I forget...





Then it's time for epoxy and clamps- prioritizing the fit to front wall and top wall, but putting the pressure on all over...





The next step for this cabinet will be flush trimming the side panel bottoms with the Metabo M12V2 router with the Woodpeck spiral uncut 1/2" bearing follower bit, then overall finish sanding.


If I haven't overlooked anything else, then I'll be doing the wipe on oil and poly finishing after that.

[JonMarsh]

Been a busy day, looking at other things including crossover component topics, like terminals and input blocks, reordering some of my favorite TE Connectivity stuff, and some 12 position turret terminals.

But the cabinet setup enough to unclamp and set on my utility table to give it a look-see....

Now, I didn't exactly expect this to be a "lightweight" cabinet, but my first impression is surprise at how heavy it actually is unloaded. And given that it's a essentially a double cabinet, with heavy damping on the inner midrange cabinet, I have hopes for this...

[JonMarsh]

Glued the other side wall on the 2nd cabinet today, not picture worthy....

But since I acknowledged NOT being a Makita influencer, I figured it was OK to take a pic of the Makita Biscuit Joiner that I'm growing fond of, probably mainly because it's relatively light and doesn't have an AC cord on the end of it, which actually DOES make it easier to use!



The other thing I've been working on is detailing the design of the MF-HF input panel mounting and how to make a routing fixture for it. The Fun never ends at Casa De Juan!

Oh, and ordering some more connector and crossover build hardware, and downloading 3D models, thank you Digikey!

[theSven]

The question remains... If Bosch made a biscuit joiner would you give up the Makita for the Bosch?

[JonMarsh]

And what makes you think Bosch does not make a biscuit joiner?






Do note that my Makita was purchased in early 2020 for the construction of the Ardent D POC prototype...





One might also note that the Bosch GFF 22 A is mainly sold in Europe, where the Bosch reputation may help justify its extravagant pricing, at nearly double the Makita.

[JonMarsh]

A little bit of shop work before errands today, this time for the routing fixture for trimming the input panel corners. Probably not interesting to most of you- especially those with CNC at home- go back and read the Sunday funnies instead!



1/2" BB ply is used as the base material, and the keys "design lines" drawn from the CAD 2D drawing. Note, the 3/4" birch dowel on the left, which is the key corner structure.




The input plate will be screwed to the fixture using the same mounting screw holes that it's attached to the back panel of the MF-HF enclosure.


A Forstner bit is used to drill the through holes for the dowel... then the sides are cut to drawn dimensions.





Sections of birch down are cut off on the Bosch crosscut saw, then test fitted (gluing tomorrow):




And the Minions didn't even help- they get Sunday's off, unlike me!

[JonMarsh]

Some "simple" time consuming work today- side wall flush trims, plus starting the finish sanding.

The way I've been doing this is cutting the side panels a smidge tall compared with spec, then routing flush with a spiral up cut solid carbide flush trim bit. So far, seems to be working as hoped...


This closeup shows the amount of material being removed to get the side wall and bottom flush:



It takes a bit more "oomph" (that's the technical wood working term, I think... I should probably check with Steve!) than for say, veneer trimming, so a 1/4" shank trim router isn't really recommended. 3HP Metabo works fine...

Finished edge.




Now, with a REALLY big router table (say, about the size of a table saw) one could do this on the table and not have to manage the hand held bit, which would likely be easier and less likely to have any "yield loss", but my Bosch router table couldn't handle this, so I have to handle the Metabo carefully.

[JonMarsh]

Half way through the fine sand stages for the 1st MF-HF top module.

Slow work takes time...





Shout out for the battery powered Makita sander- I was skeptical at first, but it has a nice speed control and a good pattern with some bite to it. Not too heavy, and adequate dust extraction without an external vac.

[technodanvan]

Looks really good Jon, I'm glad you can keep moving forward on this.

I'm still leaning towards having Steve make the baffles for me, maybe out of that fancy wood you use. Maybe.

[JonMarsh]

I expect having Steve do that would save a lot of head scratching and maybe some gut ache. The full from baffle thickness is 1.5”- in this case, it was 1.25” panel plus 1/4”panel, so that the latter could be cut out and routed. For the tweeter rebate. There is 1.5” material available also. Probably the logical way to go with CNC. BUT, my outer layer of front panel is actually birdseye maple from Woodcraft, and that has a nicer grain than the piano pin block, which isn’t meant to be looked at!

I’m tweaking up the crossover board layouts too, and pretty much have all the parts, wood or otherwise on hand. Just need more time.

[JonMarsh]

Slow work takes time, especially with distractions!

But back to making a bit of progress- almost finished with the detailing work now on the first MF-HF module... top side sand at 180 grit left, then the finer sanding steps on this cabinet.



I'm debating whether to do a test finish example on a piece of scrap would with the planned Danish oil and sealer, or just dive in to the cabinet. To avoid stretching things out even more, I'll probably try the latter, as I don't imagine anyone will be building this with the same woods or finishing technique anyway, and I can live with it however it turns out, based on prior experience with the Isiris and the Ardent D.

Some new crossover board hardware arrived before I left for Seattle, and now board layouts are getting updated, and a couple of boards will get retrofitted. The woofer crossover was reviewed and some tweaks enabled, parts now on hand.

[JonMarsh]

Part way through the "golden oak" treatment on the first MF-HF module cabinet, and it's looking like it will turn-out about the way I wanted- especially for the bamboo side walls- this is a bit different bamboo ply than I usually work with.





So far, so good... slow work takes time!

[JonMarsh]

A few hardy souls have asked me how I'm doing this finishing step...

This is where I should remind folks that the wood and finishing shop here is run by Kaptain Kluge and his merry band of minions, and how things get done here are not methods I would necessarily hold up for application or use by the general public OR the members of HTG.






There's a reason these guys are laughing whenever I get one of these requests...


BUT, for the record...

• The desired Danish oil product is prepared for application using the approved James Bond method
• The working area is continuously ventilated with a DeWalt area fan set at slow speed, fed from outside air.
• The working piece is on a prop pedestal and a working setup supporting fast 360 degree rotation. Both horizontal and vertical surfaces are being treated.
• Nitrile gloves are de-rigueur.
• Surfaces are wiped and smoothed with a heavy application three times, spaced 15 minutes apart.
• After the 3rd application, the surfaces are allowed to dry 15 minutes, then wiped dry.
• The working piece is left to dry at least 7-10 hours, but overnight is preferred.
• General Finishes Arm-R-Coat Urethane semigloss sealant is used as a top coat, applied in three coats, full drying in between (think 24 hours), with light sanding using 400 grit Arabnet between layers.

This methodology has been reviewed and approved by DFAL and its team members... not recommended for Padawan learners, though.

[JonMarsh]

It is at the point where the actual lighting used has a marked influence on the color- adding daylight from outside will shift the perception, make it less golden in the currently cloudy conditions. Garage lighting is high CRI D6500 bulbs.