Mark's Statements to Statement IIs Build Thread

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  • JonMarsh
    Mad Max Moderator
    • Aug 2000
    • 15261

    #46
    Originally posted by mlammert
    So, my carpenter buddy that has been helping me got sick with covid 🙁, so that has delayed things for a while. Hopefully be able to get back at it in about a week when he is fully recovered.

    In the meantime, I have been looking at the crossover changes that need to be made. And, I have a couple questions.

    1) For the tweeters, I need two 6ohm resisters. the Meniscus BOM calls for paralleling two 12ohm to make a 6ohm.

    Could someone please explain to me the "advantage" to doing this over just using a 6phm resister?

    Similar for the midrange, I need two 4.5ohm resistors, the Meniscus BOM calls for seriesing a 1.8ohm and a 2.7ohn to make a 4.5ohm.

    2) The original Statements BOM used Dayton resistors and the IIs from Meniscus BOM call for Lynx resistors.

    Does this matter? Should I source Daytons to match? Or, is it okay to Mix in Lynx when I rebuild the crossovers?

    3) And... Since the original crossovers are going to be disassabled to create the new ones, is there any benefit to swapping in some other manufacturer's "higher quality" crossover components, since everything will be taken apart anyway?

    Thanks as always!
    What power rating of 12 ohm resistors? I use the PE or Mundorf 20W resistors a lot, and I doubt you'd need to parallel those.

    As to the 4.5 ohm resistor, well, good luck finding that value! 4.7 Ohms? no problem. But if the 4.5 ohm is "just" the right value for things to come in on the money, then only alternative would be to parallel two 9.1 ohm resistors.

    I don't personally think that the difference in these brands of resistors will be an issue. I could make an argument for using non-inductively wound resistors in the tweeter crossover, though measuring a significant difference is probably unlikely.

    As to the other crossover components, that all depends... on the electrical parameters of the original, (caps for the tweeters and midrange, for example) and the relative "definition" of the rest of your system. For example, other reviewers and my own experience might tell you the best tweeter crossover caps that, say, PE carries, are the Jantzen Alumen film and foil. Another brand and version that works well is Clarity MR and CMR, and for a bit less money, the Clarity CSA copper connect. But the question then becomes the rest of your signal chain, particularly your source components. DAC and preamp are fairly critical, as well as power amp. Where are you sitting there, and where do you plan to go?

    And for inductors, remember, you'll always get lower distortion with air core, with low DCR, but those mommas are big and expensive. And the degree of benefit depends on the intrinsic performance of the drivers. With a design like this, I'd expect the original designer to have put some thought into those aspects, but if you have a nice DAC and source setup, I'd consider the Alumens on the tweeters at least.
    the AudioWorx
    Natalie P
    M8ta
    Modula Neo DCC
    Modula MT XE
    Modula Xtreme
    Isiris
    Wavecor Ardent

    SMJ
    Minerva Monitor
    Calliope
    Ardent D

    In Development...
    Isiris Mk II updates- in final test stage!
    Obi-Wan
    Saint-Saëns Symphonique/AKA SMJ-40
    Modula PWB
    Calliope CC Supreme
    Natalie P Ultra
    Natalie P Supreme
    Janus BP1 Sub


    Resistance is not futile, it is Volts divided by Amperes...
    Just ask Mr. Ohm....

    Comment

    • mlammert
      Senior Member
      • Dec 2007
      • 373

      #47
      Originally posted by JonMarsh
      Isn't it great when all this stuff finally comes together? Also a nice looking build.
      They are beautiful. Too bad they aren't the speakers I am designing in this build thread. Ha ha.

      Thank you for all your other info on my crossover questions!!!

      Comment

      • mlammert
        Senior Member
        • Dec 2007
        • 373

        #48
        After another bout of life getting in the way, we finally have all the cabinet pieces cut from the MDF.

        We will hopefully assemble the cabinets over the holiday break.

        Also ended up buying Black Limba hardwood for the front baffles. Never heard of it or saw it before. But fell in love when I stumbled upon it. The plan is to use the 3/4 inch MDF as a backer and "veneer" 7/16 - 1/2 inch Black Limba to get the final baffle thickness.

        I got some inspiration from an image I saw online of some hardwood speaker baffles where the builder cut ~1 inch wide strips of hardwood and laminated them together to create the full width of their baffles. My plan is to do the same with the Black Limba and "randomize" the strips so that the grain does not line up. Think butcher block, but each ~1 inch strip will be the full height of the front baffle.

        The last two photos don't really do the Black Limba justice. But, you can get an idea of the interesting "wavy" yet "straight grain that is offers.

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        Comment

        • mlammert
          Senior Member
          • Dec 2007
          • 373

          #49
          Hi everyone!

          I know it has been a really long time. But, my build is still progressing. Only excuse is life. But, the pace is picking up speed.

          We have all four tunnels built and we have the shell of the two cabinets built.

          Here are some picks.

          Glue up using strapping tape to secure everything. All corners mitered. And all other joints rabbited.

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          Glue up with all the clamps and some temporary bracing.

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          Final two cabinets. Sans tunnels.

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          Here you can see the excellent quality of mitering the corners. Pay no attention to all the dust.

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          Next to come will be gluing in the mid tunnels and routing the hole for the port tube (which will be mounted on the back).

          Leaving the tops off for the time being to make working with the tunnels a bit easier.

          Thanks for sticking with me!!!
          Last edited by mlammert; 22 February 2023, 12:17 Wednesday.

          Comment

          • Mikerodrig27
            Senior Member
            • Feb 2015
            • 160

            #50
            Very nice work! Those mitered corners will save you some headache down the road

            Comment

            • mlammert
              Senior Member
              • Dec 2007
              • 373

              #51
              Originally posted by Mikerodrig27
              Very nice work! Those mitered corners will save you some headache down the road
              Thanks!

              The idea right now is to do a piano gloss white/off-white paint job on the cabinet sides/top/back. So, yes, I think the miters will make my life much better at that point!

              Comment

              • mlammert
                Senior Member
                • Dec 2007
                • 373

                #52
                I have a crossover question for anybody in the know.

                I am talking with Meniscus Audio and they are quoting me a new 6.2 ohm resister for the tweeter (R3041).

                But, Jim and Kurt's diagram calls for a new 6.0 ohm resister there (actually two 12 ohm in parallel).

                Any thoughts on that discrepancy?

                Thank you!

                Comment

                • Mikerodrig27
                  Senior Member
                  • Feb 2015
                  • 160

                  #53
                  That is going to be nice! I would go slightly off-white. Just enough to make it look white but not too white. You would be in for it if you had butt joints on a piano finish. I have thick veneer over some butt joints on my speakers and you can see them if you look carefully enough. MDF too! On my next speakers, I am going to do rabbits amd leave around 5/16" of end grain exposed.

                  Regarding the resistor, It looks like they have the 12 ohm's listed on their site:

                  https://meniscusaudio.com/product/12-ohm-10-watt-mox/

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                  Although 6.2 ohms is within 5% of the original value. The tolerance on resistors is usually 1%and 5% and 10%. It would be a good idea to make sure the wattage rating is the same as Jim and Curts original design. You can see if they are willing to measure them.
                  Last edited by theSven; 17 March 2023, 22:07 Friday. Reason: Update image location

                  Comment

                  • DeanP
                    Senior Member
                    • May 2004
                    • 175

                    #54
                    Originally posted by mlammert
                    I have a crossover question for anybody in the know.

                    I am talking with Meniscus Audio and they are quoting me a new 6.2 ohm resister for the tweeter (R3041).

                    But, Jim and Kurt's diagram calls for a new 6.0 ohm resister there (actually two 12 ohm in parallel).

                    Any thoughts on that discrepancy?

                    Thank you!
                    According to Curt's website, it's a 6ohm. http://speakerdesignworks.com/Statement_II_4.html

                    Comment

                    • mlammert
                      Senior Member
                      • Dec 2007
                      • 373

                      #55
                      Originally posted by Mikerodrig27
                      That is going to be nice! I would go slightly off-white. Just enough to make it look white but not too white.​
                      Thanks! Yes, I am definitely leaning towards a subtle off-white. The wood I have chosen for the front baffles (black limba) I think is really going to look nice with the off-white.

                      Comment

                      • mlammert
                        Senior Member
                        • Dec 2007
                        • 373

                        #56
                        Originally posted by DeanP
                        According to Curt's website, it's a 6ohm. http://speakerdesignworks.com/Statement_II_4.html
                        I actually have a question into Jim that hopefully he can answer.

                        But, as of right now, I am planning on going with the 6 ohm since that is specifically what it says on the website.

                        Unless I hear otherwise from Jim.

                        Comment

                        • Jim Holtz
                          Ultra Senior Member
                          • Mar 2005
                          • 3223

                          #57
                          PM sent. 6.2 is fine without any audible difference.

                          Jim

                          Comment

                          • mlammert
                            Senior Member
                            • Dec 2007
                            • 373

                            #58
                            Originally posted by Jim Holtz
                            PM sent. 6.2 is fine without any audible difference.
                            Thanks for the quick reply and explanation, Jim.

                            It is greatly appreciated!

                            Comment

                            • mlammert
                              Senior Member
                              • Dec 2007
                              • 373

                              #59
                              Making some more great progress.

                              So, if you have been following along, the big change I am making in my Statements II design, is that I want removable front baffle and removable base. The base is easy. The front baffle, not so much.

                              In order to get a good seal and to secure the front baffle to be removable, we have integrated an oak frame around the perimeter of the front of the cabinet. The okay frame is 1 3/4" wide. We are using this to support the mid tunnels and in order to get good gasket area and solid bolting surface.

                              The oak frame is rabbited into the side panels and will be glued and screwed to the tunnels and bottom shelf brace. This photo is currently a dry fit of the frame and tunnels.

                              EDIT: We will be taking some measurements and jig sawing out some "arcs" from the oak frame around where the woofers will be to give them as much breathing room as possible.

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                              We also rabbited a grove in the middle of the mid tunnels and will slide in a piece of 1 3/4" per the original plans (ultimately still giving us two pieces of support on each side of the mid tunnels). The tunnels will be glued and biscuit jointed to the back panel.

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                              We also cut some filler strips for all the little rabbit grooves and spacers.

                              Once everything is glued up, we will attach the final mitered tops.

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                              Comment

                              • mlammert
                                Senior Member
                                • Dec 2007
                                • 373

                                #60
                                Meniscus informed me that "Jim really likes pyramid foam."

                                Anybody know if this pyramid foam from Amazon would be acceptable? If not, anybody have some other links to better pyramid foam?

                                https://www.amazon.com/Pack-12-Designed-Acoustic-Adhesive-Included/dp/B08QN6B2FD/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=acoustic%2Bfoam&qid=1677517603 &sr=8-8&th=1

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                                or

                                https://www.amazon.com/180%C2%B0-Acoustic-Panels-Soundproof-Absorbing/dp/B091XWSN5Y/ref=sr_1_62?keywords=acoustic+foam+2+inch&qid=1668 961821&sr=8-62



                                Thank you!
                                Last edited by theSven; 17 March 2023, 22:08 Friday. Reason: Update image location

                                Comment

                                • Jim Holtz
                                  Ultra Senior Member
                                  • Mar 2005
                                  • 3223

                                  #61
                                  I'd use these https://www.amazon.com/180%C2%B0-Acoustic-Panels-Soundproof-Absorbing/dp/B091XWSN5Y/ref=sr_1_62?keywords=acoustic+foam+2+inch&amp&qid= 1668961821&amp&sr=8-62

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                                  They have the highest NRC rating, so should be a bit better.

                                  Jim
                                  Last edited by theSven; 14 March 2023, 12:05 Tuesday. Reason: Add image in the event the link expires and someone is curious what Jim recommended

                                  Comment

                                  • mlammert
                                    Senior Member
                                    • Dec 2007
                                    • 373

                                    #62
                                    Originally posted by Jim Holtz
                                    They have the highest NRC rating, so should be a bit better.
                                    Thanks, Jim.

                                    Ordering now!

                                    Comment

                                    • mlammert
                                      Senior Member
                                      • Dec 2007
                                      • 373

                                      #63
                                      Originally posted by Jim Holtz
                                      This might be a silly question.

                                      Since I am going to have quite a few of these left over, could I cut off the pyramids and use the 1" thick part of it for my tunnel foam?

                                      Thoughts?

                                      Comment

                                      • Jim Holtz
                                        Ultra Senior Member
                                        • Mar 2005
                                        • 3223

                                        #64
                                        Originally posted by mlammert

                                        This might be a silly question.

                                        Since I am going to have quite a few of these left over, could I cut off the pyramids and use the 1" thick part of it for my tunnel foam?

                                        Thoughts?
                                        I've not done it but the tunnel foam isn't rocket science so give it a try.

                                        I usually buy a sheet of 1" flat foam locally from the craft stores for not much money and save the extra for the next project. Shh... Don't tell my wife.

                                        Comment

                                        • mlammert
                                          Senior Member
                                          • Dec 2007
                                          • 373

                                          #65
                                          So my pyramid foam just came in and I am in the process of "expanding" it to its final size. This stuff is crazy. The foam was literally like 1/16" thick in the vacuum seal bag.

                                          However, it appears this is not truly 2" thick. I would say it is about 1 3/4" - 1 7/8" thick.

                                          Don't know if I should return it? Or, if I should let it sit out longer and expand more?

                                          Or, if 1 7/8" is acceptable for the Statements?

                                          Anybody have any thoughts on this?

                                          Thank you!

                                          Comment

                                          • mlammert
                                            Senior Member
                                            • Dec 2007
                                            • 373

                                            #66
                                            Also, the cabinets and tunnels are complete.

                                            I am going to prime the inside of the cabinets and the outside of the tunnels with kilz to seal them before final glue up and assembly.

                                            Then all that is left is to build the front baffles.

                                            Comment

                                            • Mikerodrig27
                                              Senior Member
                                              • Feb 2015
                                              • 160

                                              #67
                                              Well, Jim uses it so it must do the trick. I don't think 1/8" is going to make a difference.

                                              Comment

                                              • Jim Holtz
                                                Ultra Senior Member
                                                • Mar 2005
                                                • 3223

                                                #68
                                                Originally posted by mlammert
                                                So my pyramid foam just came in and I am in the process of "expanding" it to its final size. This stuff is crazy. The foam was literally like 1/16" thick in the vacuum seal bag.

                                                However, it appears this is not truly 2" thick. I would say it is about 1 3/4" - 1 7/8" thick.

                                                Don't know if I should return it? Or, if I should let it sit out longer and expand more?

                                                Or, if 1 7/8" is acceptable for the Statements?

                                                Anybody have any thoughts on this?

                                                Thank you!
                                                It won't make any difference at all.

                                                Jim

                                                Comment

                                                • mlammert
                                                  Senior Member
                                                  • Dec 2007
                                                  • 373

                                                  #69
                                                  Originally posted by Jim Holtz
                                                  It won't make any difference at all.
                                                  Cool. I will separate the thickest ones from the thinnest ones. But, good to know it won't make a difference.

                                                  Thank you as always for your quick replies!

                                                  Comment

                                                  • mlammert
                                                    Senior Member
                                                    • Dec 2007
                                                    • 373

                                                    #70
                                                    Starting to layout the cutouts for the drivers on the front baffles.

                                                    And, laying out where the bolts will go for the removable fronts.

                                                    Got a good system in the works and should make securing the front baffles to the boxes pretty easy and straightforward.

                                                    Comment

                                                    • mlammert
                                                      Senior Member
                                                      • Dec 2007
                                                      • 373

                                                      #71
                                                      Nothing too crazy right now. Just gluing up the ports.

                                                      Came in just under 10 inches total length.

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                                                      • mlammert
                                                        Senior Member
                                                        • Dec 2007
                                                        • 373

                                                        #72
                                                        Here is a mock up of the shoulder bolts and square washers we will be using to secure the removable front baffles to the cabinets.

                                                        The 3/4" MDF represents the 3/4" layer of the front baffle.
                                                        The 3/4" oak represents the oak "frame" that will go around the perimeter of the cabinet.
                                                        The flat end of the bolt will be welded onto the square washer.
                                                        The 1/2" layer of the front baffle (not shown here) will have square recesses routed out for the square washer to fit in.

                                                        The concept is the smooth shaft of the shoulder bolt will go through the holes drilled in the oak frame and align and secure the front baffle. Then there will be enough threaded part of the shoulder bolt remaining to get washer and nut on it. I did a rough dry run on my current speakers to ensure that I can get my hand in through the woofer cutouts with a tiny ratchet to tighten the nuts to the shoulder bolts.

                                                        There will be a total of 14 of these per speaker.

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                                                        • mlammert
                                                          Senior Member
                                                          • Dec 2007
                                                          • 373

                                                          #73
                                                          Originally posted by Jim Holtz
                                                          6.2 is fine without any audible difference.
                                                          HI Jim and whomever else can chime in.

                                                          Above, Jim commented that Meniscus' substitution of a 6.2 ohm vs 6.0 ohm resister for the tweet would make no audible difference.

                                                          I am getting ready to order the new resisters and was thinking of swapping out all the resisters for new Zister resisters.

                                                          While creating my shopping cart, I also noticed that Meniscus is substituting an 8.2 ohm vs 8 ohm resister in the tweeter network as well.

                                                          Would this be the same thinking that there will be no audible difference between the two?

                                                          FWIW, I am leaning towards keeping the 8 ohm value so that I can use all Zister resisters.

                                                          Thanks!

                                                          Comment

                                                          • technodanvan
                                                            Senior Member
                                                            • Nov 2009
                                                            • 998

                                                            #74
                                                            I think you'd be hard pressed to tell the difference.
                                                            - Danny

                                                            Comment

                                                            • mlammert
                                                              Senior Member
                                                              • Dec 2007
                                                              • 373

                                                              #75
                                                              Originally posted by technodanvan
                                                              I think you'd be hard pressed to tell the difference.
                                                              Hey Danny,

                                                              Do you mean this in regards to 8ohm versus 8.2 ohm?

                                                              Or, do you mean swapping out my current resistors with Zisters in general (currently everything is Dayton resistors based on my original Statements v1 build)?

                                                              Thank you for your input!
                                                              Last edited by mlammert; 18 March 2023, 15:31 Saturday.

                                                              Comment

                                                              • technodanvan
                                                                Senior Member
                                                                • Nov 2009
                                                                • 998

                                                                #76
                                                                Apologies, my comment was in regards to the difference between an 8 ohm and 8.2 ohm resistor. I couldn't really say when it comes to swapping out with Zisters, without having used them previously I'm at a loss on that front.
                                                                - Danny

                                                                Comment

                                                                • mlammert
                                                                  Senior Member
                                                                  • Dec 2007
                                                                  • 373

                                                                  #77
                                                                  Originally posted by technodanvan
                                                                  Apologies, my comment was in regards to the difference between an 8 ohm and 8.2 ohm resistor.
                                                                  All good. I really appreciate your (and everyone else's) input and comments and suggestions.

                                                                  Getting ready to order everything and it just makes me nervous. Ha ha.

                                                                  Comment

                                                                  • mlammert
                                                                    Senior Member
                                                                    • Dec 2007
                                                                    • 373

                                                                    #78
                                                                    Hey everyone. Man, I really wish life would stop getting in the way of this project.

                                                                    So, I have successfully de-soldered the old crossovers.

                                                                    I bought an LCR meter to check the values of all resistors, capacitors, and inductors.

                                                                    Everything reads really tight in tolerance except for two of my components.

                                                                    Both 7.0 mH inductors are reading 6.5 mH. Could anyone tell me if this is acceptable? Or should I buy new ones with my order?

                                                                    Also, I do not have a 60 uF capacitor. Instead I have a 56 uF and an 3.9 uF that (based on my original notes) appears were paralleled to get the required 60 uF.
                                                                    Would it be recommended to parallel them again, or buy a single 60 uF with my new order?

                                                                    Thanks!

                                                                    Comment

                                                                    • mlammert
                                                                      Senior Member
                                                                      • Dec 2007
                                                                      • 373

                                                                      #79
                                                                      Here is a photo of the bolts we made in order to secure the front baffle onto the cabinet.

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                                                                      They were created by taking shoulder bolts. Cutting the heads off. And, welding the bolt into a square washer. The square washer will be embedded in between the two layers of the front baffle. The smooth part of the shoulder bolt will pass through alignment holes in the cabinet. And, then nuts will secure them. A proof of concept on my old speakers show that I should easily be able to screw the nuts on by putting my hand through the drive cutouts.

                                                                      Comment

                                                                      • mlammert
                                                                        Senior Member
                                                                        • Dec 2007
                                                                        • 373

                                                                        #80
                                                                        The insides of the cabinets and the outside of the tunnels have been primed to seal them. We will glue these together, along with the frame (see post #59), while I work on assembling the new crossovers.

                                                                        The blue painters tape is where any final glue joints will be.

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                                                                        Comment

                                                                        • Mikerodrig27
                                                                          Senior Member
                                                                          • Feb 2015
                                                                          • 160

                                                                          #81
                                                                          Neat! Pretty cool work. Those bolts you made look neat.

                                                                          Comment

                                                                          • Steve Manning
                                                                            Moderator
                                                                            • Dec 2006
                                                                            • 1879

                                                                            #82
                                                                            Originally posted by mlammert
                                                                            Here is a photo of the bolts we made in order to secure the front baffle onto the cabinet.

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                                                                            They were created by taking shoulder bolts. Cutting the heads off. And, welding the bolt into a square washer. The square washer will be embedded in between the two layers of the front baffle. The smooth part of the shoulder bolt will pass through alignment holes in the cabinet. And, then nuts will secure them. A proof of concept on my old speakers show that I should easily be able to screw the nuts on by putting my hand through the drive cutouts.
                                                                            I'm interested to see this in action!
                                                                            Hold on to your butts - It's about to get Musical!



                                                                            WEBSITE: http://www.smjaudio.com/

                                                                            Comment

                                                                            • technodanvan
                                                                              Senior Member
                                                                              • Nov 2009
                                                                              • 998

                                                                              #83
                                                                              Originally posted by mlammert
                                                                              Both 7.0 mH inductors are reading 6.5 mH. Could anyone tell me if this is acceptable? Or should I buy new ones with my order?

                                                                              Also, I do not have a 60 uF capacitor. Instead I have a 56 uF and an 3.9 uF that (based on my original notes) appears were paralleled to get the required 60 uF.
                                                                              Would it be recommended to parallel them again, or buy a single 60 uF with my new order?

                                                                              Thanks!
                                                                              Re: The capacitors - There's really no reason to buy new 60 uF caps unless the other ones are electrolytic or something. Using your existing caps in parallel should be close enough while saving you $50+.

                                                                              Re: The inductors - It's interesting that they're consistently off. They're iron core, right? No magnets near your testing station?
                                                                              - Danny

                                                                              Comment

                                                                              • mlammert
                                                                                Senior Member
                                                                                • Dec 2007
                                                                                • 373

                                                                                #84
                                                                                I hit return too soon....
                                                                                Last edited by mlammert; 21 May 2023, 09:17 Sunday.

                                                                                Comment

                                                                                • mlammert
                                                                                  Senior Member
                                                                                  • Dec 2007
                                                                                  • 373

                                                                                  #85
                                                                                  Originally posted by technodanvan

                                                                                  Re: The inductors - It's interesting that they're consistently off. They're iron core, right? No magnets near your testing station?
                                                                                  Yes, they are iron core. No magnets that I know of beyond what you might find inside of a computer or whatnot.

                                                                                  This is what I am using for my measurements:


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                                                                                  Everything else is well within tolerance if not pretty much spot on.

                                                                                  One thing that I have noticed, and this might be really dumb. My 7.0 mH inductor is green. Every other crossover build that I have read for the Statements, the 7.0 mH inductor is red. Could that mean anything?

                                                                                  Thanks!​
                                                                                  Last edited by theSven; 21 May 2023, 18:50 Sunday. Reason: Add image in the event the link ever breaks

                                                                                  Comment

                                                                                  • technodanvan
                                                                                    Senior Member
                                                                                    • Nov 2009
                                                                                    • 998

                                                                                    #86
                                                                                    I wouldn't think the color would necessarily be indicative of anything, different brands probably use different wire is all. If I was already ordering parts I'd probably grab a pair of new 7.0 mH inductors and measure them too.
                                                                                    - Danny

                                                                                    Comment

                                                                                    • mlammert
                                                                                      Senior Member
                                                                                      • Dec 2007
                                                                                      • 373

                                                                                      #87
                                                                                      Does anybody have any comments on the upgrading to 25W Zister resistors or using parallel/series 10W resistors for the v2 crossovers?

                                                                                      My current v1 crossovers were using MILLS 12W resistors, which I have read are pretty good resistors. I have had no issue with overheating them or burnout.

                                                                                      I don't want to get into a whole which components sounds better debate, but it seems through the majority of research I have done, MILLS resistors are preferred over the LYNX resistors. There doesn't seem to be a lot of feedback on the Zister resistors, that I can find at least.

                                                                                      I bring this all up because some of the Zisters are sold out in certain values.

                                                                                      Not sure if I should buy additional MILLS and parallel/series them? Not sure if I should replace them all with parallel/series LYNX? Or, do some combination with the Zister, MILLS, and LYNX that are in stock?

                                                                                      Any feedback is appreciated!

                                                                                      Comment

                                                                                      • technodanvan
                                                                                        Senior Member
                                                                                        • Nov 2009
                                                                                        • 998

                                                                                        #88
                                                                                        I don't really think any change is necessary personally (as long as they meet or exceed what Curt originally specced out), but YMMV. I've used Mills and the Dayton 20w (and 10w) resistors a long time and don't really feel spending any more is necessary. I looked over the BOM and think using Mills resistors in parallel or series as Curt has shown should be fine.

                                                                                        I can't even find a source for Lynx anymore (in my limited Googling, at least).
                                                                                        - Danny

                                                                                        Comment

                                                                                        • Evil Twin
                                                                                          Super Senior Member
                                                                                          • Nov 2004
                                                                                          • 1531

                                                                                          #89
                                                                                          Originally posted by mlammert

                                                                                          Yes, they are iron core. No magnets that I know of beyond what you might find inside of a computer or whatnot.

                                                                                          This is what I am using for my measurements:


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                                                                                          Everything else is well within tolerance if not pretty much spot on.

                                                                                          One thing that I have noticed, and this might be really dumb. My 7.0 mH inductor is green. Every other crossover build that I have read for the Statements, the 7.0 mH inductor is red. Could that mean anything?

                                                                                          Thanks!​
                                                                                          Something to keep in mind about measuring parts, the handhelds like this often really aren't structured internally and functionally like what I would call true LCR meters. That is, being able measure at a range of frequencies, being able to breakout individually secondary characteristics like ESR, effective phase shift, and also accurately net total impedance value. The least expensive handheld I've found that meets these requirements for me (I'm used to lab bench tops) is the BK Precision 879B.
                                                                                          Of course, there is also a difference in price.

                                                                                          Now, a picture might lead you to think that it has few features, but the push buttons allow you to cycle through operating points and options in menus that would be difficult to replicate with a rotary dial.


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                                                                                          So, you can measure resistors accurately, but also characterize the parasitic series inductance at 10kHz if you want to compare a Dayton 20W part against a Mills non inductive design at a specific value...

                                                                                          And you can measure and compare air core inductors and complex cored inductors like the Jantzen C-Core inductors and accurately determine the inductance apart from low level residual core effects. As Jantzen notes, inexpensive hand holds won't correctly read out the inductance value because they are testing at very low power levels in a very simplistic manner. The BK Precision will read out their values and behavior with frequency correctly.


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                                                                                          Dark Force Acoustic Labs

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                                                                                          Comment

                                                                                          • mlammert
                                                                                            Senior Member
                                                                                            • Dec 2007
                                                                                            • 373

                                                                                            #90
                                                                                            All my new crossover parts finally came in.

                                                                                            I ended up just buying a couple new Mills resisters, per Curt and Jim's specs.

                                                                                            Here is a couple photos of the tweeter and woofer crossovers (they are on the same board. This is before soldering.

                                                                                            Everything is hot glued and then zip tied down. I twisted all the wires/leads together. Checked everything for continuity and they all passed.

                                                                                            If anybody sees anything glaringly wrong, please let me know. 😀

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