FreaQ Statements build

[FreaQ]

Hi!

I'm officially starting my build of the full statements speakers! Got all my parts...

Also received and plugged my new Emotiva UPA-1 amps directly on my Xonar ST sound card in my HTPC. I'm planning to build a nice rack for all my stuff after this build...

So tonight I decided I'll hit the crossovers. I assembled them on a piece of thick cardboard (whatever it is) and I managed to get everything on a size of 5"1/2 X 5"1/2 or less. Not bad. Now what is left is to solder everything together and clip the remaining ends not needed. It cold outside (soldering iron is in the car) and late... Tomorrow then. The source and speakers wires will be directly soldered and tie wrapped to the board to prevent pulling on the components.

I attached some pics to show you.

btw how do I put pics directly in my post. Like right after the paragraph it goes with?

L8r



Edit: I just noticed something while reviewing my whole thread. If you look on my second pic, the crossover one, I forgot to reverse polarity on the mid. Actually, I just have to write it accordingly with a pen. The crossover is still wired correctly...

[BOBinGA]

That's a good start on the Statements.

To publish photos, use [i-m-g] and [/i-m-g] tags to enclose the URL for the photo. If you upload the pictures to the HTGuide site, open the picture once its in you manage attachments list and copy the URL that appears in the address bar. Then at the point you want to insert the picture, type this:

[i-m-g]paste in URL of the picture[/i-m-g]

Then preview the post to see if it shows up like you expect. You can also use image tags with the URL from your photo-bucket account if you don't upload it here.

I hope that helps.

-Bob

[bigbardmusiq]

Those amps look good, I went with the XP-3. Wish I could afford those 1000w monoblocks

[FreaQ]

Bigbardmusiq: The one I have are the UPA-1, not XPA-1. They are "only" 350w.

I'm going to go like frodaddy did but with small differences. I'm cutting all my mdf and bb plywood pieces right now.

I have a question concerning the laminate. Do I glue the laminate before or after doing the holes for the drivers? Before would be easier but how does the finish of the edges of the laminate going to be? Which bit should I use for the recess, upspiral? Or should I do it after like everyone looks like they are doing and modify a laminate bit to be shorter...

[bigbardmusiq]

I imagine most people laminated 1/2in and 3/4in mdf together for the front baffle then cut driver holes. Your gonna need a 3/4 roundover bit, chamfer would be nice, and a straight bit. A flush trim bit is also a very good bit to have!!

[FreaQ]

I know about gluing the mdf 1/2 and the 3/4 together.

I'm talking about the solid laminate surface added for finish, like veneer. Should I glue it before or after routing the holes for the drivers?

[Drew_V]

Not sure if this is the right approach, but I plan to cut the holes in the MDF first, then veneer over them, then cut out the veneer through the holes and trim it flush with the MDF cutuouts.

So, the veneer goes on last. Holes are then trimmed clean afterwards.

Even for the binding posts, I plan to just drill those right through the veneer after I'm all done. Then vacuum out the cabinet and feed the supply wires through the holes from the inside. Solder to the binding posts, then secure them into the holes last.

[FreaQ]

Actually, I just found my answer in a thread of Frodaddy.

https://www.htguide.com/forum/showpost.php?p=498486&postcount=35

I'm doing the same thing with the same finish and he seemed to be successful.

[Drew_V]

Ahh, thanks for the link. I wasn't correctly interpreting what you were asking. But it's good advice to use the masking and a special trim router for that. Definitely less risk of damage.

[FreaQ]

English is my second language... My fault.. maybe

Quick update...

Everything is cut and I started assembling. Crossover are done and tested. Check. Baffle glued with 3/4 and 1/2 mdf and cut to size. Mid channels are glued with the vertical ties, almost forgot tweeter recess (hope it's deep enough). Did not take photos yet. I'll start posting some this week, promise

This week, I'm going to glue the black gloss laminate I got at Rona (45$ for 4x8 sheet) with regular glue on to the baffle and back. Was forgetting, have to drill holes and then glue the magnets inside them before, that will hold the grills I have to make for them (for my kids attracted to nice shiny drivers and WAF requirement). Then, route the holes for the drivers... Then continue gluing stuff.

Question to Frodaddy: what bit did u use to route your holes for you minis with your "pre-finished" baffles?

[Coconutout]

are those Crosscaps? what value are the big ones? I've been looking to replace my paralleled dayton 40uf+10uf in my statement monitors for a while. the crossovers look good, btw. very very neat. :thumbsup:

[Warrant]

English is my second language... My fault.. maybe

Of course its your fault, the rest of Canada blames you for all our troubles.

Je blague, je blague.

[FreaQ]

are those Crosscaps? what value are the big ones? I've been looking to replace my paralleled dayton 40uf+10uf in my statement monitors for a while. the crossovers look good, btw. very very neat. :thumbsup:

Yes, Crosscaps. It's the C2011 100.0uF in the crossover design for the full statements.

Btw, Thx!

[FreaQ]

Of course its your fault, the rest of Canada blames you for all our troubles.

Je blague, je blague.

Always Quebec Those frogs (including me btw)

[FroDaddy]

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Question to Frodaddy: what bit did u use to route your holes for you minis with your "pre-finished" baffles?

A good quality spiral upcut bit; make sure to do a test run on a scrap piece you've laminated. Also be vigilant while routing by paying close attention to the layers of protection coming up. It probably will in some capacity, so you'd need to stop routing to patch the protection, then continue. I've found even a small scratch on the polypropylene protection the laminate comes with can mar the gloss underneath.

[FreaQ]

Thx FroDaddy. I'll use that with caution...

Pics update...

Here are the center channel all glued:





Here is the before and after of the 4x8 sheet of gloss black laminate I used. I used a oversized xacto passing 3 times using my black and decker circular saw guide and breaking the blade for a fresh new point for each new cut I made.





One long strip is left because I did not have enough glue for the the last panel... That sucks... Got to get more glue. The other one is going to be used for the top and bottom and part of the "3d" base...

[FreaQ]

Continued...

Is it enough weight? I wonder... I drilled some holes on the baffles and inserted the magnets. I triple checked to make sure the polarity was all on the same side. Then glued the laminate oversized to be trimmed with my special bit with the square bearing.





Here is one of the speaker posts I'm going to use on the back. They came on a plastic pocket but I did not like how they looked... They are a bit short on the screw side so I'll have to route or drill holes on the inner back panels to make them fit directly on the back.

[Coconutout]

magnets in the baffle? I'm sorry, I must've missed something interesting. Could you reiterate? thanks,

[FreaQ]

Unfortunately, I forgot to take a pic of the process.

I pressed in some magnets hidden just behind the laminate to put some grills, also with magnets, to hide those nice drivers from my kids and it was a requirement from the wife. But I decided that I won't ruin the finish with the usual plastics grill guide. And whenever the house is "kidless + wifeless", those grills will be removed.

The grills are already drawn. I'll build them from the 1/2" mdf leftovers with black cloth. The back and inner edge will have black felt for finish protection and reflection prevention.

[fordmaker]

I'm very interested in the grill design. I feel a cover is a must considering the aluminum cone drivers. If a 3/4 inch roundover is noticeable (or at least measurable) in smoothing the upper frequency response compared to square edges on the baffle, how detrimental is a 1/2" raised lip on the baffle going to be?

Matt

[Drew_V]

What type of glue are you using for the laminate??

Thanks.

[FreaQ]

I'm very interested in the grill design. I feel a cover is a must considering the aluminum cone drivers. If a 3/4 inch roundover is noticeable (or at least measurable) in smoothing the upper frequency response compared to square edges on the baffle, how detrimental is a 1/2" raised lip on the baffle going to be?

I'll post my design here soon. I've got a Sketchup of it somewhere...
I also think that it's going to affect it and that's why I'll try to reduce the effect with felt and maybe a 45 degree angle. After some research, some tried to eliminate the effect by making it very thin or with spacers for the grill.

What type of glue are you using for the laminate??

Regular wood glue. I'm my case Elmer's stainable wood glue because that's what I have on hand. I know that contact glue is the best from a quick search but it's easier to work with regular glue. I did a test before to see how it holds and it worked great.


Update...

Did some work today... Glued the last panel out of 4 and put some weight. I trimmed the Formica on the other ones with caution. Everything went fine with proper paper-tape protection and the laminate trim bit with square bearing. Then I tried to screw the jasper jig to my cheap router (Mastercraft - Canadian tire's store brand) and does not fit any of the screw holes. I don't want to buy a router for now. I started making a adapter plate.

[FreaQ]

Been some time since I worked on this but lately I did some progress and now I have two towers glued but no sides for now. Sides are birch plywood and I need to stain and coat them. Also I have to make the feets and speakers grills. I'll post some pics later tonight. They are going to be heavy, ouch...

But... I have a question regarding room treatment and The Statements. I'm going to build so broadband absorber panels for my room, actually the house since it's a open concept with cathedral ceiling, and I was planning to put some panels on the wall facing the back of the speakers. My question is: should I not put anything directly in the back of the speakers because of the mid with the transmission channels? Or it won't do a thing?

Here is a idea of what I'm tring to achieve:

http://www.canuckaudiomart.com/image.php?image=2405457&is_user=0

I'll have the same setup except my amps are going to be in my basement also. So just 2 speakers, a lcd 42" and the panels (maybe?)

[FreaQ]

Well it a bit later then tonight but here goes... I'm keeping the protective film on top of the black laminate to protect them. I'll remove them when they will be in my living room for the big reveal









Since then, I've sanded the edges that I'm going to glue the sides on so that it all sits flush. I've also sealed the inside of the MDF (50/50 water and glue). I don't know if I had to do it but I did...

Tonight I'm trimming the birch plywood to size with a 45 degree angle on the front. Then glue some veneer on all the edges. They will not be glue for now until the finish stain is done on them...

Almost forgot, got to glue a last sheet of the black laminate on the tops...

I guess I should post my question on room treatment in a separate post..