I can has Statements: Another Statement LCR build

[jyqureshi]

Thanks mikela, that thread is quite useful.

[jyqureshi]

Dampening the cabinets

I'm still waiting for my DeWalt router to be delivered, so in the mean time i'm working on the crossovers.

Today I ordered the following:

For mid tunnel: 1" wedge foam



For rest of the lining: 2" wedge foam



Hope I made the right choices.

[deewan]

I was just looking to order the foam yesterday but was wondering if the wedge foam works for the midtunnels. Most tunnels I've seen have flat foam.

[jyqureshi]

hmmm, I did look for flat sound foam on their website but didn't find any.

I am calling them and cancel the 1" foam, and order the flat one from parts-express.

[Jim Holtz]

Hi Guys,

Yes, the Statements speakers were designed with 1" flat foam. HERE (1.1 lb.)is a link to the foam on Foam by Mails website. However, I think the wedge foam would work with a little experimentation or the PE foam should be fine too.

Jim

[jyqureshi]

Hey Jim,

Good to see you here, I ordered the PE foam though.

But if one were to choose between 1.1lb and 1.6lb density foam, which would work best?

Thanks again

[Curt C]

Which p/n did you order from PE?

C

Hey Jim,

Good to see you here, I ordered the PE foam though.

But if one were to choose between 1.1lb and 1.6lb density foam, which would work best?

Thanks again

[jyqureshi]

This: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=260-525

I see one reviewer (with professional know-how) on it that doesn't like it that much.

So, that's why I asked Jim if 1.6 would be better over 1.1 if I were to buy one from FoamByMail.

[Jim Holtz]

This: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=260-525

I see one reviewer (with professional know-how) on it that doesn't like it that much.

So, that's why I asked Jim if 1.6 would be better over 1.1 if I were to buy one from FoamByMail.

I don't know if it'd be best but I think the 1.1 lb. foam is closer to the foam that the crossovers were developed with. I bought it locally at Hobby Lobby in the upholstery section.

HTH

Jim

[Curt C]

That should be fine. I wanted to make sure it didn't have a sealing layer on top. If you can blow through it, it should be acceptable.

C

This: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=260-525

I see one reviewer (with professional know-how) on it that doesn't like it that much.

So, that's why I asked Jim if 1.6 would be better over 1.1 if I were to buy one from FoamByMail.

[jyqureshi]

Statement Channel Construction

Here are some pictures of the progress so far:

I'm in your tunnel stealing your voices



Woofer Crossover:



Under side of the woofer crossover:




Mid Crossover:



Mid Crossover Underside:



Solder:




The extra space you see in the mid crossover board can be used for tweeter crossover.

So I ask the gurus to point out any mistakes in the crossovers.

Thanks
J

[deewan]

I don't see any mistakes but I wanted to say I think you did a fine job with your soldering gun.

What gauge wire did you use on your crossovers?

[jyqureshi]

I think it's 18 gauge.

Don't know if 16 would make any difference.

I used this soldering station, for $30 it does a good job.

[deewan]

Thanks, I was just wondering since is didn't seem over the top heavy. I'm planning on using 16 gauge for my tweeter and midrange and 12 gauge for my woofers. I have 12 gauge running from my amps to my speakers so I just thought I would try to preserve that as much as possible.

[jyqureshi]

I guess you've got a high-end equipment, higher than mine.

[jyqureshi]

A little problem

After finishing the tweeter crossover, I tested one 5ohm resistor with my multimeter, here is the result:



I took one loose 5ohm resistor and tested that:



I also tested the 4.5ohm resistor on the tweeter board and it also shows 3ohms on the meter.

The only reason I can think of is that I probably damaged the resistors during soldering :cry:.

Is there anything I might be missing? Could both resistors be bad out of factory?

[Face]

Mills resistors can take a beating.

Testing a component that is attached to others can throw off the reading.

[TacoD]

Do not worry about it, with in circuit measurements it is hard to isolate one single component (several paths exists -> changes the resistance)

[john trials]

What is happening is: If you measure the resistance of one of the resistors in the tweeter xover, you are actually measuring that resistor in parallel with the series resistance of the other resistor and inductor. You will get a resistance measurement of approximately half of the resistor you are trying to measure (5ohm in parallel with (4.5ohm+DCR of inductor)).

Basically, you probably didn't ruin the resistor during soldering.

[jyqureshi]

Thank you guys, and thank you john for explaining the reasons in detail.
OK so there is 99 percent chance that the tweeter crossover didn't get ruined.
I feel so much better.

Hopefully I will get my foams, Router, T-nuts this week and then finish off the construction, but tonight I'll hook up the drivers and the crossovers and just test them out to make sure that the drivers make a sound.

[DeathMonk]

I've gotten components burning hot and they all come out fine

[savage25xtreme]

I've gotten components burning hot and they all come out fine

Just be careful if you solder to the drivers... especially the tweeters

[jyqureshi]

I will probably use the connectors. I think the ribbon tweeters come with the connectors.

[DeathMonk]

Just be careful if you solder to the drivers... especially the tweeters

Always use quick disconnects

[jyqureshi]

Hello guys,

I will be getting my new router sometime today, and I wanted to know which router bit I need to use to make "recess" for the drivers?

Thanks

[savage25xtreme]

I used a whiteside 3 flute spirial up-cut with great results.

Note: the jasper jig is "calibrated" with a 1/4" diameter cutter. I prefer the 1/2 cutter and to calibrate the pin location/router screws with a set of calipers. for a much better driver fit. I was horribly unsatisfied with just putting the pin in the right hole and cutting a circle.

[john trials]

A 1/4" diameter spiral downcut bit works great for the recess, creating a very clean edge. I also used that for my through holes. It heats up quite a lot when the cut gets deep (even when only cutting a 1/4 depth at a time). In the future I'm going to use a spiral upcut for the through holes, as it will clear out the particles better (and I'm not as concerned about a clean edge there).

[savage25xtreme]

A 1/4" diameter spiral downcut bit works great for the recess, creating a very clean edge. I also used that for my through holes. It heats up quite a lot when the cut gets deep (even when only cutting a 1/4 depth at a time). In the future I'm going to use a spiral upcut for the through holes, as it will clear out the particles better (and I'm not as concerned about a clean edge there).

that whiteside up-cut is razor sharp and I spin it pretty fast with my router and get extremely clean edges on the recess....

[jyqureshi]

If I use spiral bit (up or down) for recess, how many passes will I need to make a wide enough recess so when I do a through cut, it will be covered?

[savage25xtreme]

with a 1/2 inch bit on the drivers in the BAMTM I had to make 2 passes to make a wide enough spot for the flange. Then I did the through cut and that ended up in the middle of the 2nd cut. obviously you will have to make more passes with a 1/4 bit. all of this depends on the dimension of your drivers... make it wide enough for the flange.

be careful with the 1 inch cut length when your baffle is 1.25 thick... you will have to go pretty slow and make sure the groove stays clear on your through cut.

[jyqureshi]

I have this upcut bit at the moment, will it work for both purposes, plus I bought this bit set from harbor freight, will the straight bits be of any help for recess?

[jyqureshi]

damn, I think I will return the upcut bit back to HD, and look for a more expensive one :/, don't want to mess up the baffles.

[savage25xtreme]

I don't think you will mess up the baffles, just have to pay attention and listen to how the router sounds, you can tell when its bogging down. vacuum out the groove after each pass. plenty of people have built Statements with a bit just like that one. I just prefer a more aggressive cut

[john trials]

Your bits should be fine. Try them on some scrap MDF first, just to be sure. If you need different ones, try:

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/

inexpensive bits, huge selection, plus free shipping.

[jyqureshi]

Thanks for the link for MLCS website, prices are quite reasonable there, I think I will go with them, I just want to make sure I get the right stuff and if I mess up I can blame myself rather than the tool.

[savage25xtreme]

I bought this set off amazon MLCS page.... I am not too impressed with how they did flush trimming my baffle to the cabinet. I had some sanding to do after. maybe all flush trim bits are like that though

[DancesWithBeers]

I bought this set off amazon MLCS page.... I am not too impressed with how they did flush trimming my baffle to the cabinet. I had some sanding to do after. maybe all flush trim bits are like that though

I have used flush trim bits from several different manufacturers and they have differences with regard to how much of an offset there is between the bearing and the cutting edges. I'm not sure if this is just do to manufacturing tolerances with some brands, or if it is by design. Some cut too close, some not close enough, and a rare few seem to be dead on, as far as I can perceive.

-DWB

[jyqureshi]

Hi guys,

Just found out that I got two caps 54uf and 3.9uf each, instead of one 60uf cap. Will connecting them in parallel achieve 60uf?

Thanks

[Jim Holtz]

Hi guys,

Just found out that I got two caps 54uf and 3.9uf each, instead of one 60uf cap. Will connecting them in parallel achieve 60uf?

Thanks

You should have a 56 uF and a 3.9 uF and yes, connecting them in parallel creates the 60 uF cap that is called for in the crossover.

Jim

[jyqureshi]

Yes, I meant to type 56uF. Thanks for the prompt response.

I've been thinking of using the bottom of the Statements to hold the crossover board, which will require me to move the port to either back or front. I would prefer it to be on the front.

What changes I will need to make to move the port to the front?

[Jim Holtz]

Yes, I meant to type 56uF. Thanks for the prompt response.

I've been thinking of using the bottom of the Statements to hold the crossover board, which will require me to move the port to either back or front. I would prefer it to be on the front.

What changes I will need to make to move the port to the front?

There shouldn't be any changes required to move the port to the front/rear. However, I'm not a fan of front ported speakers. You greatly increase the chances of hearing "chuffing" noise with front mounted ports. I'd suggest you rear port it if you decide not to down fire the port.

HTH

Jim

[Curt C]

FWIW, I concur with Jim on the front port. There will be no acoustic loss in the port output due to rear mounting, as we are firmly in the 4pi region at those frequencies, but any extraneous noise higher in frequency may be more noticeable with front mounting.

C

There shouldn't be any changes required to move the port to the front/rear. However, I'm not a fan of front ported speakers. You greatly increase the chances of hearing "chuffing" noise with front mounted ports. I'd suggest you rear port it if you decide not to down fire the port.

HTH

Jim

[jyqureshi]

Thanks Curt and Jim, rear port it is then!

[jyqureshi]

In the Statement Center, are the following parts used for the rear port?

Straight Tube
Outside Flare
Inside Flare

Thanks

[Jim Holtz]

In the Statement Center, are the following parts used for the rear port?

Straight Tube
Outside Flare
Inside Flare

Thanks

No, I used a different port on the center. I used a PE 2 1/2" port (260-386) 7" long. There just isn't room in the center cabinet for anything larger and is works well.

Jim