Statement Series in a Flat Pack Kits.

[DeathMonk]

You can't stain MDF it has to be veneered; it is simple to go either way with plywood. I prefer using plywood and a MDF baffle. Just one "vote".

Doc

As long as mitre joints are used. How else would you deal with the exposed edges?

[impala454]

Seems like one of the main advantages of baltic birch is how easy it is to machine. Since the point here is that someone else does the machining, my vote would be for MDF. Again just one vote though.

[Bear]

The BB I used had some deep grain--more than a couple of base coats worth.

Other than shipping costs, why BB? MDF is cheaper and that would probably offset the shipping cost.

Also, there will be no cutting involved, so no dust problems.. At most maybe some light sanding will be needed.

A few thoughts here:

1) Baltic Birch will hold a screw better than MDF and will have greater longevity for repeated insertions if you need to do it. If you just mount your drivers once (or you use a hurricane nut or similar), then either is fine.

2) Every time an operator needs to change a tool on a CNC, that adds complexity and cost. One thing to be aware of when buying a plat pack kit is whether the shop will do the rear driver relief for you. I suspect that the cost of doing a driver relief will be higher than the cost of going from all MDF to all BB. This is shop dependent, though.

3) The above also goes for chamfering or roundovers on the baffle.

4) If you keep costs to a minimum, then the end-user would be responsible for any driver rebates and finish machining on the baffle. Now you have dust to contend with.

5) Given the baffle thickness and the drivers used in the Statements design, you might be better off with a two-piece baffle where the bottom piece has a larger through-hole to assist in eliminating rear wave masking (e.g., 2x18mm starts to look a lot like 1.5" if you squint).

Seems like one of the main advantages of baltic birch is how easy it is to machine. Since the point here is that someone else does the machining, my vote would be for MDF. Again just one vote though.

I suspect all of the machining one might want to do will end up being prohibitively expensive for a CNC shop. Setting up a bunch of linear moves is easy to do in gCode. Machining a through-hole plus a rabbet gets a bit pricier, but is needed and can be done with the same tool that is doing the rest of the cutting. Machining a chamfer or a roundover can be done with, say, a 1/4" spiral upcut bit, but you end up "nibbling" the wood to do it. Nibbling (small depth-of-cut, high overlap) gets expensive in a hurry.

I'll step out now, since my money is currently tied up in finishing my own CNC machine build...

[Erich H]

These aren't going to be cut with the intent to simply stain them and be done. There will need to be some sanding and not every piece of Baltic is 100% perfect on the face. Most look really really good, but I just won't have the time to pick through them to find the ones that can be directly stained. I'd be figuring on paint or veneer, but that's just me.





I could use some help with driver measurements.


Did anyone save their exact diameters and exact depths for the recess cuts? Same goes for the port.

Also, I think it makes sense to not drill the pilot holes for the driver screws just in case that changes for some reason. These are going to be drawn up very soon (by the end of the week), so any help would speed things up and keep me from second guessing things.


We really need a vote for mdf, Baltic, or a mix. At first I thought the mdf baffle and everything else in Baltic made sense. Some people may not want Baltic, but no one will pass on these if they're all mdf. So now I'm not 100% sure.


Also still curious about making the baffle slightly large in case someone veneers the sides but paints the baffle. That means the baffle might be narrower than the sides at that point.


These are the main things to worry about. Chamfers and roundovers can be worried about after it's sent in. As mentioned earlier, I can do that myself if it keeps the price down. Hopefully we can focus on the measurements and material first.

[BeerParty]

I could use some help with driver measurements.

Did anyone save their exact diameters and exact depths for the recess cuts? Same goes for the port.

Can you wait until Friday night? I will not have time tonight, but tomorrow night I should be able to pull the speakers on my Monitors and get those measurements for you.

[BeerParty]

We really need a vote for mdf, Baltic, or a mix. At first I thought the mdf baffle and everything else in Baltic made sense. Some people may not want Baltic, but no one will pass on these if they're all mdf. So now I'm not 100% sure.

If you really are willing to route out the back of the driver holes, my suggestion would be to use 1 piece of 1.25" MDF for the front baffle.This would reduce the amount of work people have to do when building the speaker. But before you volunteer yourself - while it isn't a lot of work for you to to do this routing, you will be routing MDF so it will get messy.

I don't have an opinion on what to use for the rest of the wood. I'll simply make the observation that if someone is planning to stain these, even if you used plywood they would want to apply a veneer to cover the exposed edges of the plywood.

I vote for over-sizing the baffle a little bit. Better over-sized that needs to get sanded down as opposed to under-sized which is much harder to fix (ask me how I know ops: )

[DeathMonk]

I vote to slightly oversize the baffle and 100% mdf.

[Erich H]

If you really are willing to route out the back of the driver holes, my suggestion would be to use 1 piece of 1.25" MDF for the front baffle.This would reduce the amount of work people have to do when building the speaker. But before you volunteer yourself - while it isn't a lot of work for you to to do this routing, you will be routing MDF so it will get messy.

I don't have an opinion on what to use for the rest of the wood. I'll simply make the observation that if someone is planning to stain these, even if you used plywood they would want to apply a veneer to cover the exposed edges of the plywood.

I vote for over-sizing the baffle a little bit. Better over-sized that needs to get sanded down as opposed to under-sized which is much harder to fix (ask me how I know ops: )

I can certainly wait for the driver cut out and depth measurements until you get time on Friday. I guess you know the Monitors are going to be priced first right?


I don't mind dealing with the mdf dust, I'll just wear a mask. I work in landscaping, so if I come home clean, I did something wrong! :B


As mentioned, the CNC company would rather not be flipping panels over to do extra work or it will get more expensive. That's what they told me. I have no idea how much extra it would be but I want to keep this as simple as I can for them so their pricing structure doesn't change.

[BeerParty]

I can certainly wait for the driver cut out and depth measurements until you get time on Friday. I guess you know the Monitors are going to be priced first right?

Statement Monitors - yep, that is what I built so that is what you get measurement for.

Something has come up for this evening, I may not be able to get those measurements until Saturday. I'll post here as soon as I get them.

[BeerParty]

OK, here are the measurements for the drivers used in the Statement Monitors, biggest to smallest:

Dayton RS180-4 7" Woofer:

• Flange thickness = 3/16"
• Outer diameter = 7-3/32"
• Inner diameter = 6"

Note that I over sized the inner hole for the Dayton. You could go as small as 5-3/4" with this driver, but you will need to make a deeper rabbit so you don't block the driver vents.

Tang Band W4-1337SA Mid-range:

• Flange thickness = 3/16"
• Outer diameter = 4-15/16""
• Inner diameter = 4"

I deliberately made the inner hole for the Tang Band 4" so I could put a 1/2" chamfer around the back of the hole and the edges would then align with the tunnel walls. The driver requires at least 3 7/8", so I wouldn't go any smaller than 3-15/16"" to be safe.

Fountek NeoCD3 Ribbon Tweeter

• Flange thickness = 3/16"
• Outer diameter = 4-5/16"

I didn't provide an inner diameter for the Fountek because the cutout isn't round -the Fountek has a square back with heat sinks above and below. Rather than try to explain it I have included a link to the Fountek NeoCD3 data sheet which include dimensions. When I made my cabinet, I think I went with a 3 15/16" hole and then routed out the space for the heat sinks.

[john trials]

Reading Chris' description of the Fountek cutout reminded me:

You need to make a relief cut in the tunnel. I made mine 1/4" deep, which is plenty of clearance room for the tweeter. I think it's about 2" wide by 3".

[looneybomber]

Eric H, instead of worrying about chamfering around the mids and woofers, you can have the inner baffle cut out and leave small areas where the screws can bite into. This could also mean you could likely use all .75" material (if that saves you money) and wouldn't have to worry about flipping boards or doing extra routing work.

[Ray Collins]

Sorry for the delayed response but I have been at the Louisiana State Trap Tournament in Baton Rouge for the past four days.

As long as mitre joints are used. How else would you deal with the exposed edges?

Of course you must mitre the joints; otherwise it is a waste to use wood...

I still vote for the wood/MDF combonation.

Doc

[Ray Collins]

Hi Eric,
How about an update??

Doc

[Erich H]

The guy that's drawing them up was waiting on the driver cut out measurements. He said he was pretty much finished. Once he emails me the photos, I'll send the info to the CNC company.

Beerparty, don't worry, you won't be held accountable if your measurements are a bit off! They will cut a test box and I'll check everything.

You said you changed some of the measurements over what the factory recommended. I'm guessing you still think that's fine?



Depending on the front baffle material, there might be left over room on the 5' x 5' Baltic panel. Maybe we can fit another round of Overnight Sensation speakers on it. The originals were 1/2", but I know many people made them with 3/4" material.

[Ray Collins]

Thanks!

Doc

[alteredbeast77]

you can count me in, i have wanted to build the full size statement's for a good while but its hard to find the time. a flat pack kit would be great.

[vyger]

Been waiting for some time to do either of these builds Would be very interested

[Erich H]

These will be for the Statement Monitors first. The full sized Statements might be too expensive to ship.

[BeerParty]

You said you changed some of the measurements over what the factory recommended. I'm guessing you still think that's fine?

I didn't actually change anything from the 'factory measurements', I measured my physical drivers and they match the factory specifications (just a quick double check).

When I cut the baffles for my Monitors, I cut the rabbit for the flange using a rabbit bit rather than the circle jig. I had to the size the driver through cuts so the rabbit for the flange would match the driver diameter, and the largest rabbit bit I had was 1/2". So the driver hole for the woofer is exactly 1" narrower than the driver. It worked fine, but the hole does not need to be that large and I indicated that in the info I provided.

[BeerParty]

Beerparty, don't worry, you won't be held accountable if your measurements are a bit off! They will cut a test box and I'll check everything.

Do you already own the drivers?

[alteredbeast77]

erich h you have pm

[tjk002]

If you get to the sealed statements. I'm in.

[mbglobal]

statement monitors

would like to see pricing. i am looking to make these soon
mark

[BeerParty]

would like to see pricing. i am looking to make these soon
mark

Are you talking about pricing for the enclosure, or pricing for the parts?

According to Curt's BOM, parts for two Statement Monitors (near wall version as of Jan 2, 2011) will cost you $465.56 (priced from Parts Express and Madisound). That is just for the crossover components and the drivers.

The Anarchy flat pack was only ~$72. At least, that is what Erich quoted at the beginning of that thread. While the flat pack for the Statement Monitors will probably be more since it will involve more cutting, I doubt it would be THAT much more. But since Erich is in the process of getting a quote, I'll stop speculating now and let him provide us with same details.

It just occurred to me that this thread doesn't have a link to Curt's site, which contains all the build info for the Statement Monitors ops: . So:

Curt's web page for the Statement Monitors:

http://speakerdesignworks.com/Statements_Monitor.html

He includes design information, cabinet drawings, crossover network diagrams, and BOMs for all three crossover variants.

[impala454]

Was that $72 for a pair? Sorry I am not familiar with the Anarchy design.

[Erich H]

The Anarchy's were cut from 1/2" Baltic like their original design. But I'm not expecting the Statements to be too much higher.

The guy that drew up all the panels is finished. I may post the parts here for everyone to see. Once we make sure it looks good, I'll send it to the CNC company to get a price on Monday. Then they'll cut a test box, I'll check it out, and give the go ahead.

[BeerParty]

Was that $72 for a pair? Sorry I am not familiar with the Anarchy design.

The Anarchy is a subwoofer, so that price was for a single enclosure. BUT, that enclosure uses the same amount of wood as the 2 Statements Monitors. The Monitors would use 3/4" plywood instead of the 1/2" plywood the Anarchy use. So, more cutting and thicker wood, but still just a single panel of plywood.

[CllessuR]

I would be interested in a set of the monitor cabs in flat pack, what a great deal!!!

Russellc

[mischmat]

How bad is shipping on these (Canada)? I'd like to build a pair of Monitors for my bedroom, and am getting overwhelmed with summer projects that I won't have time.

[Theresa]

Want the Statement's flatpack

I would like to get the flat pack for the Statements. How do I sign up?

[Hank]

I want to build a pair of monitors for a friend, so I'd like a price for all MDF.
Thanks

[capww8]

I would certainly be interested in a cabinet pack when they come to fruition.
-AP

[Erich H]

There's nothing to sign up for yet. I'm waiting for them to give me an accurate price first. They're also working on a subwoofer flat pack as well.

[Steidl Guitars]

As the clamor from the waiting hordes gets louder, I just wanted to thank Erich for taking this on. Uncommonly nice of you!

[owdi]

I would be very interested in a set of Mini Statements.

[Ray Collins]

I agree; thanks Erich.

Doc

[jhd]

For the record, I'm interested too. I assume details will be posted here when they're ready?

[lahatte]

Any guesstimated ETA on this yet?

I am interested in some full statements and a statement center channel...

[aman74]

Just wanted to chime in with my interest as well. I don't have many tools or a good workshop or a lot of money to have someone build some for me. Basically that means I'm highly interested in this project as it's probably the only way I would be able to get the Statements.

If anyone else has any ideas on reasonably priced builders who could do a flatpack or pre-built feel free to PM me.

Thanks!

[Ray Collins]

Hi Erich,
Any progress on the Statement flatpacks?

Doc