Jcoco Statement build

[jcocomo]

Hello All,

I'm working up to commit to build a pair of Jim's Statement speakers. Jim thanks for the email reply about which version to build. I've decided I would build the Statements rather than the mini's. I want to start by thanking Jim, Curt and all who contributed to the well documented designs and generously made them available to use. I will cut to the chase and post some questions below for all to comment on regarding some of the documented features and the possible impact of deviating. However, I want to remain as close to the documented design as I can, you can't argue with success.

1) I want to consider moving the whole array up ~3" and lowering the base by the same amount and porting through either the front or rear. This would leave about 2" distance between the top edge of the woofer and the outside top of the cabinet. Effectively the cabinet will be 3" shorter now and the tweeter is still at 38" from the floor. Any concerns about cabinet resonance or TL effect, refraction or something?

2) Where in the cabinet are the x-over networks typically located? If I forego #1 above I could place it in the base.

3) What internal wiring are the enthusiasts using these days?

4) Upon completion of the speakers should I expect a need to do some voicing or tweaking of the x-overs, L-pads, etc.?


Thanks to everyone in advance for all your inputs,
John...

[ThomasW]

Surplus mil spec Teflon insulated silver plated copper wire.

16 gauge for tweeters and mids, 12 gauge for woofers

And it doesn't get any cheaper than this ....

http://www.apexjr.com/wire.html

[---k---]

1.) As long as you are leaving the internal volume the same, and the depth the same, it shouldn't be a problem. Normally, the depth can be changed, but because of the mid-range TL, the depth determines the tuning - so don't change it.

2) You can put the X-overs inside next to the woofers, where ever you can fit them. Industrial strength velco hangs them nicely. I've seen a couple of people put them underneath in the base, so you can see them if the speaker is flipped upside down. I think that it works out really well and I should try it sometime.

3) Yep, what Thomas said. But really the colored electrical wire on the spools that they cut to length at Home Depot or where ever will work nicely. I wouldn't get that hung up about it.

4) You shouldn't have to do voicing unless the your tastes differ from Curt , Jim, and Wayne's. You may need to if your parts are slightly different specs due to tolerances. But, I haven't really seen anyone asking about tweaks - so probably not.

[Jim Holtz]

Hello All,

I'm working up to commit to build a pair of Jim's Statement speakers. Jim thanks for the email reply about which version to build. I've decided I would build the Statements rather than the mini's. I want to start by thanking Jim, Curt and all who contributed to the well documented designs and generously made them available to use. I will cut to the chase and post some questions below for all to comment on regarding some of the documented features and the possible impact of deviating. However, I want to remain as close to the documented design as I can, you can't argue with success.

1) I want to consider moving the whole array up ~3" and lowering the base by the same amount and porting through either the front or rear. This would leave about 2" distance between the top edge of the woofer and the outside top of the cabinet. Effectively the cabinet will be 3" shorter now and the tweeter is still at 38" from the floor. Any concerns about cabinet resonance or TL effect, refraction or something?

2) Where in the cabinet are the x-over networks typically located? If I forego #1 above I could place it in the base.

3) What internal wiring are the enthusiasts using these days?

4) Upon completion of the speakers should I expect a need to do some voicing or tweaking of the x-overs, L-pads, etc.?


Thanks to everyone in advance for all your inputs,
John...

Hi John,

Sorry, I missed your thread somehow but it looks like you've gotten some very good answers.

1. The key here is to keep the cabinet volume and width the same and the ribbon at ear height. If your seated ear height is different from the 38" speced, I'd suggest you adjust the drivers up/down so it is for the best sound quality.

2. I build my crossovers on perf board (they ain't purdy) and use a 3/4" screw or two to fasten it to the cabinet near the bottom. The main thing is to design them so they're removable after the speaker is built and that they're mounted securely.

3. Wiring is a personal preference. I've used a bunch of the 14 guage Thomas referred to from Apex Jr. Most recently, I started using Bluejeans Cable 12 guage Belden 5000 in my speaker builds and really like it. I use their 10 guage for my speaker cables from the Amp to the speakers. I've compared Bluejeans to Alphacore and Audioquest and I preferred the Bluejeans. It's VERY good! :T

4. I think you'll find the Statements speakers (all) to be voiced VERY nicely thanks to the hard work of Curt and Wayne. I think you'll find the sound to be extremely natural and "real" sounding. That's my take anyway....

Jim

[jcocomo]

Thank you all for the valuable input.

I find the silver-over-copper wire recommendation by Thomas very intriguing and feel I would go that route. Through past exp I’ve become a believer that wire matters. Wire selection will change the sound but whether it’s better or worse is very much a matter of personal preference as Jim points out. Ryan, I won’t sweat it too much though.

I will summarize the build prior to the start so I will not reply to every good point made in the above threads for the sake of brevity. I have since formulated some additional questions to discuss.

5) Is the port length of 4” the overall length and inclusive of the flares?

6) This question is regarding the acoustical foam lining of the internal bass cabinet walls. Am I correct to assume that the sides and back need to be lined from top to bottom as well as the top and bottom of the cabinet? The acoustical foam selection is sure to invoke some discussion so let me ask for advise on what materials are most suited and provide satisfactory results. I’m open to this one.

7) This question is regarding the 1” thick foam lining of the transmission line enclosures. Is there a particular type of foam that is most appropriate? I have got to believe that different materials absorb audio frequencies differently. I would like to stick as close to original as possible..

8) Jim how did you finish your speakers? The black looks painted and I may consider going this way also.

Thanks, John…

[Jim Holtz]

Thank you all for the valuable input.

I find the silver-over-copper wire recommendation by Thomas very intriguing and feel I would go that route. Through past exp I’ve become a believer that wire matters. Wire selection will change the sound but whether it’s better or worse is very much a matter of personal preference as Jim points out. Ryan, I won’t sweat it too much though.

I will summarize the build prior to the start so I will not reply to every good point made in the above threads for the sake of brevity. I have since formulated some additional questions to discuss.

5) Is the port length of 4” the overall length and inclusive of the flares?

6) This question is regarding the acoustical foam lining of the internal bass cabinet walls. Am I correct to assume that the sides and back need to be lined from top to bottom as well as the top and bottom of the cabinet? The acoustical foam selection is sure to invoke some discussion so let me ask for advise on what materials are most suited and provide satisfactory results. I’m open to this one.

7) This question is regarding the 1” thick foam lining of the transmission line enclosures. Is there a particular type of foam that is most appropriate? I have got to believe that different materials absorb audio frequencies differently. I would like to stick as close to original as possible..

8) Jim how did you finish your speakers? The black looks painted and I may consider going this way also.

Thanks, John…

Hi John,

5. The port tube is 4" plus the flares.

6. Rule of thumb is to line the woofer compartments anywhere you can see bare MDF looking through the RS225 driver holes in the front baffle. 2" foam from Foam by Mail, PE's Sonic Barrier or 2" unbacked fiberglass works well. The 2" fiberglass is available from Home Depot in small roles for pipes etc for around $4 a roll. The correct foam is the one you can blow through. You DO NOT want closed cell foam. Hold the foam back from the front baffle abour 2" or so.

7. The 1" foam is again, just open cell foam that you can blow through. Foam by Mail carries it or you can go to Hobby Lobby or similar and get seat cushion foam from the upholstery section. It should be tapered on the driver end with a 45 degree bevel and hold back from the back of the driver about 2". If the foam is too close, it kills the mids.

Check the Mini Statement thread for examples of veneer. Take you pick on variety. I would recommend 10 mil paper back and use the iron on method. It's really very easy. Finish is up to you.

I would not recommend painting unless you're a glutton for punishment. I start by sanding until the surface is smooth and then bondo all of the end grain. Sand again and then seal the cabinet with Zinnsers Bullseye sealer (dewaxed shellac), let dry and then lightly sand again. It might take several coats to get an adequate seal on the MDF.

Then start to prime with rattle can automotive primer or spray it if you have a spray setup. Prime and sand repeatedly until the surface is perfect. Finish up with 400 grit.

I do have an automotive spray setup that I use to finish my speakers with. I've used Target finishes water based black lacquer and gloss black Crystalac from McFeely's. I much prefer Crystalac. It lays down better, dry's quicker and requires less coats. It's also extremely durable and hard. It'll sand to powder in about 30-45 minutes.

Like all finishes, to get a super gloss, sand in stages starting with 1000, 1500 and finish with 2000 grit paper. Sand until all perfections are removed and the finish is glass smooth. Then buff it with 3M automotive compound followed with 3M swirl remover.

The alternative is to find a body shop that needs work and see if you can get a good price on painting the speakers for you.

Jim

[jcocomo]

Understood about the paint route! I’ll consider using a veneer covering but I’m not sure how to do the seams. The material I’ve seen comes 24” X 96” and looks like there will be a lot of waste. How do you negotiate the round over on the front baffle? If anyone could describe the process of applying the veneer to these speakers or steer me in the right direction it would be great, this seems to be the last unknown. Once I’m confident that I have a path for finishing the speakers I can pull the trigger on the project.

Thanks,
John…

[Jim Holtz]

Understood about the paint route! I’ll consider using a veneer covering but I’m not sure how to do the seams. The material I’ve seen comes 24” X 96” and looks like there will be a lot of waste. How do you negotiate the round over on the front baffle? If anyone could describe the process of applying the veneer to these speakers or steer me in the right direction it would be great, this seems to be the last unknown. Once I’m confident that I have a path for finishing the speakers I can pull the trigger on the project.

Thanks,
John…

Hi John,

This is an easy one. There are dozens of places to buy veneer that sell it in 4'x8' sheets. Actually, it's usually 49"x97". Here are a couple of my favorite places:

Tape-Ease

Oakwood

Also, check the user tips link at Oakwood for instructions on how to apply veneer using the iron on method. 10 mil paper back veneer will wrap around a 3/4" round over very easily when you go with the grain.

BTW, it takes 3 sheets to cover Statements. Depending on whether you want a base or you decide to rear port the cabinet and eliminate the base, I use 3/4" hardwood for the top layer of the base and veneer the sides of the base. Check out my picture of the Mini's for an example.

Of course, the base can be painted too or eliminated, modified etc. Lots of options!

Jim

[Gusta]

Jim,

Isn't the grain usually parallel with the first dimension? In other words, looking at the roll standing on end, the grain runs vertically? That would mean that a 4' X 8' sheet would be too short to wrap around a Statement. I hope I'm wrong because 4' X 8' sheets are less expensive and more common, but I figured I would need the 5' X 8' sheets.

[Jim Holtz]

Jim,

Isn't the grain usually parallel with the first dimension? In other words, looking at the roll standing on end, the grain runs vertically? That would mean that a 4' X 8' sheet would be too short to wrap around a Statement. I hope I'm wrong because 4' X 8' sheets are less expensive and more common, but I figured I would need the 5' X 8' sheets.

Hi Gusta,

Yes, I'm talking about standing the veneer on end and wrapping both sides and the front baffle. That totals 44 1/2" out of the 49" available. A separate piece is required for the back. Oakwood offers a 4'x10' sheet that would cover both cabinets with another 4'x8' sheet for the backs and tops. That would cut the waste down and be less expensive.

Jim

[David_D]

Isn't the grain usually parallel with the first dimension? In other words, looking at the roll standing on end, the grain runs vertically? That would mean that a 4' X 8' sheet would be too short to wrap around a Statement. I hope I'm wrong because 4' X 8' sheets are less expensive and more common, but I figured I would need the 5' X 8' sheets.

Actually the grain follows the 2nd dim. On a typical sheet the grain runs in the 8' direction. Although, there are some places that do sell 8' x 4' sheets were the grain runs in the 4' direction.

[jcocomo]

Guys,
Thanks for the excellent information regarding the veneer, I totally get it now!

I have attached a jpg to illustrate the cabinet changes I propose to make. Nothing radical have a look and tell me what you think. The port can go front or back but I don't know if port noise would be a factor in front. The cabinet is lowered 2.75" (significant) but still 55" in length. The cabinet rests on a single sheet of mdf (or other mat'l) with the feet directly beneath. The upper base section is faux and TBD. The array was moved up to maintain the tweeter height at 38".

John...

[Jim Holtz]

Guys,
Thanks for the excellent information regarding the veneer, I totally get it now!

I have attached a jpg to illustrate the cabinet changes I propose to make. Nothing radical have a look and tell me what you think. The port can go front or back but I don't know if port noise would be a factor in front. The cabinet is lowered 2.75" (significant) but still 55" in length. The cabinet rests on a single sheet of mdf (or other mat'l) with the feet directly beneath. The upper base section is faux and TBD. The array was moved up to maintain the tweeter height at 38".

John...

Looks fine. I would suggest a rear port. :T

Jim

[jcocomo]

Great! I will begin by making a new layout to correspond with the new position of the array and a rear port. I can't see putting saw to wood until the temp changes a bit. We're expecting a deep freeze later this week and the garage ("shop") is not heated. Hopefully before the end of Jan I'll be able to start cutting.

John

[jcocomo]

Jim,

When listening to music how far apart is optimal/typical for the Statements?

[Jim Holtz]

Jim,

When listening to music how far apart is optimal/typical for the Statements?

Hi John,

The Statements are just like any other speaker in that regard. 8' - 12' will work great. I don't like any speaker closer together than that. I also prefer to sit back 10' - 15' or so when listening.

Obviously, not every room will work but if you can, that is what I'd call optimum.

Jim

[DeathMonk]

I was actually going to take the base off, rear port them and shift the drivers up...

Reading all the statement build threads I don't think I will have to ask a single question


But I probably will anyway :B

[jcocomo]

Hi Jim,
I'm curious about how many speaker terminals you use on the outside of each box. I like to have two sets, one set for the woofers and one set for the mids/high. I do not bi-wire or bi-amp but I like to have the option. I think bi-wiring introduces a little smear but this is from limited experience. I plan to use two sets of gold plated binding posts. Then I use a short piece of the same speaker cable to jump between the two sets of posts. I find this provides the best sonic character. Whose terminals do you prefer?
How do you have the internal wiring configured? Do you run a wires to each driver from the x-over board or do you daisy chain the driver pairs?

Thanks, John

[Jim Holtz]

Hi Jim,
I'm curious about how many speaker terminals you use on the outside of each box. I like to have two sets, one set for the woofers and one set for the mids/high. I do not bi-wire or bi-amp but I like to have the option. I think bi-wiring introduces a little smear but this is from limited experience. I plan to use two sets of gold plated binding posts. Then I use a short piece of the same speaker cable to jump between the two sets of posts. I find this provides the best sonic character. Whose terminals do you prefer?
How do you have the internal wiring configured? Do you run a wires to each driver from the x-over board or do you daisy chain the driver pairs?

Thanks, John

Hi John,

I use terminal strips when I build my crossovers. That allows me to handle reverse phase in the crossover and make it very easy to connect the wiring from the terminal strips to the appropriate drivers. I handle the RS225's that are paralleled differently in that I solder wires together to makes the runs with the least amount of excess wire.

It's very easy to separate the crossovers for the ribbons/mids from the woofers so they can be attached to the appropriate binding posts.

I like and use fairly inexpensive binding posts from Madisound since I never set my own speakers up for bi-wiring/amping. Check out PE's WBT clones for some VERY nice binding posts and plates.

Jim

[jcocomo]

Jim,

I've been busy with the start of the my project. I will post my progress with pictures soon. I have a question regarding the 7.0 mh 16 AWG inductor specified from PE. It is on back order until 2/27. I see that Mad has a 7.0 mH 15 AWG inductor available. Should I substitute or hold out for the PE part?

Thanks, John

[Jim Holtz]

Jim,

I've been busy with the start of the my project. I will post my progress with pictures soon. I have a question regarding the 7.0 mh 16 AWG inductor specified from PE. It is on back order until 2/27. I see that Mad has a 7.0 mH 15 AWG inductor available. Should I substitute or hold out for the PE part?

Thanks, John

Hi John,

The Madisound inductor should be just fine if the DCR of the two are close. If it's too far off, Madisound will custom wind the inductor for you at the price of the next larger size.

Jim

[jcocomo]

Update on the Statement build progess

Not sure how the pictures uploaded, but I'm out of the gate and running on the build. I've decided on the configuration mentioned on 1/12, so I will port in the rear of the cabinet. The base will be dropped and the array raised to maintain 38" tweeter height.

Sat 1/17:
Picked up the MDF at HD, cost ~$100.
Cut up the front baffles and glued together the 3/4" and 1/2".

Sun:
Cut up all remaining panels.
My friend Ralph helped Glue together the (4) square tunnels.

Mon & Tues eve:
Glued the two cabinets, tops, sides and bottoms.
Ordered parts from PE (drivers, crossovers, etc..).

I have a few more questions:
- In regards to rear porting is there an optimal location along the back in terms of height off the floor?

-With the 2" thick fiberglass lining of the bass box should I stay back some distance from the front baffle or can it go up against the baffle?

-With the 1" thick mid range foam should it be kept 2" back from the baffle or from the midrange magnet?

Thanks to all,

John...

[Jim Holtz]

Update on the Statement build progess

Not sure how the pictures uploaded, but I'm out of the gate and running on the build. I've decided on the configuration mentioned on 1/12, so I will port in the rear of the cabinet. The base will be dropped and the array raised to maintain 38" tweeter height.

Sat 1/17:
Picked up the MDF at HD, cost ~$100.
Cut up the front baffles and glued together the 3/4" and 1/2".

Sun:
Cut up all remaining panels.
My friend Ralph helped Glue together the (4) square tunnels.

Mon & Tues eve:
Glued the two cabinets, tops, sides and bottoms.
Ordered parts from PE (drivers, crossovers, etc..).

I have a few more questions:
- In regards to rear porting is there an optimal location along the back in terms of height off the floor?

-With the 2" thick fiberglass lining of the bass box should I stay back some distance from the front baffle or can it go up against the baffle?

-With the 1" thick mid range foam should it be kept 2" back from the baffle or from the midrange magnet?

Thanks to all,

John...

Hi John,

It sounds as if you're hard at work and making very good progress. :T

To answer your questions.

1. I'd place the port above the binding posts on the back but well below the bottom RS225. Make sure the path is clear to the port for good air flow.

2. Hold the fiberglass/foam back about 2" from the back of the front baffle.

3. Same goes for the mid tunnel foam. It is held back from the back of the front baffle about 2" and is beveled at a 45 degree angle on the driver end, then flushed with the back baffle of the cabinet.

Jim

[jcocomo]

Hey thanks for the encouragement.

I cant' figure out the best way to up load a few pcitures. I think the pictures I took were too high res. What's the best process for posting them, any advice?

John...

[Jim Holtz]

Hey thanks for the encouragement.

I cant' figure out the best way to up load a few pcitures. I think the pictures I took were too high res. What's the best process for posting them, any advice?

John...

Hi John,

The pictures need to be 800 pixels or less in the greatest dimension and less than 100K. I like Faststone viewer for viewing, resizing etc. It's an excellent program and it's free. Irfanview is another popular program that is freeware.

Anyhow, once you've resized the image and saved it on your PC's hard drive you can upload it using the manage files tools below the editing screen when you're posting a message.

Another option is to use any of the free services like Flicker, Picassa etc. and link to the files or embed them in the message. Not to big or Thomas will get grumpy with you.

HTH

Jim

[jcocomo]

Jim,

Is there something particular about the Dayton PT-3 flare that the build specifies or can the Precision Port part be utilized? Would Dimensions need to change? Should I stay with Day?

PT-3 (268-320,268-322,268-328)
PP (268-350)

[Jim Holtz]

Jim,

Is there something particular about the Dayton PT-3 flare that the build specifies or can the Precision Port part be utilized? Would Dimensions need to change? Should I stay with Day?

PT-3 (268-320,268-322,268-328)
PP (268-350)

Hi John,

Well, the Dayton "build a port kit" is less expensive and very easy to use. That's why it was selected. It and the Precision port are functionally identical. The Precision port will require a slightly different tube length. Curt calculated it some where in the build thread if you do a search or simply recalculate the tube length from their instructions.

Your choice really. The Dayton kit is very good quality so there's not a lot of reason to change unless the Dayton parts aren't available.

Jim

[jcocomo]

Thanks Jim,

It's amazing that whenever I feel I have asked all my questions another one pops up! I'm sure they'll be more. Should a gasket material be used between the drivers and the baffle? Did you use any?

I'm hoping to make good gains with the cabinets this weekend barring any unexpected circumstances.

John...

[Jim Holtz]

Thanks Jim,

It's amazing that whenever I feel I have asked all my questions another one pops up! I'm sure they'll be more. Should a gasket material be used between the drivers and the baffle? Did you use any?

I'm hoping to make good gains with the cabinets this weekend barring any unexpected circumstances.

John...

Hi John,

I always seal the drivers to the cabinet. I use closed cell weatherstripping foam from the local home store. I select the width and thickness to correspond to the size of the driver I'm sealing. It's readily available, works well and it's cheap.

Jim

[jcocomo]

Thanks again Jim,

I knew there was something else I was forgetting to ask. When counter sinking the drivers flush should they be flush to the top of their flange or flush to the top of the surrounds?

John...

[Jim Holtz]

Thanks again Jim,

I knew there was something else I was forgetting to ask. When counter sinking the drivers flush should they be flush to the top of their flange or flush to the top of the surrounds?

John...

Hi John,

Flush to the top of the flange.

Jim

[jcocomo]

Jim,

Any reason the mid tunnels should not be made from 1/2" material? The volume gained is about what the cross overs occupy and there's less encroachment on the tweeter area. Not having put together 1/2" versions I can't tell how stiff they would be. Just a thought. :

[Jim Holtz]

Jim,

Any reason the mid tunnels should not be made from 1/2" material? The volume gained is about what the cross overs occupy and there's less encroachment on the tweeter area. Not having put together 1/2" versions I can't tell how stiff they would be. Just a thought. :

Hi John,

Using 1/2" MDF rather than 3/4" wouldn't make a lot of difference. Cutting dimensions on the side braces that tie the tunnels and the sides together would need to be adjusted of course. I don't think the 1/2" material would affect the sound or cabinet stiffness at all in this position.

Jim

[jcocomo]

Hi Jim,

Should I run the insulation up around the tunnel area? Also, seeing as the port is located in the rear should I put insulation against the inside front opposite the port (beneath the lower woofer) or leave this area clear?

Thanks, John...

[Jim Holtz]

Hi Jim,

Should I run the insulation up around the tunnel area? Also, seeing as the port is located in the rear should I put insulation against the inside front opposite the port (beneath the lower woofer) or leave this area clear?

Thanks, John...

Hi John,

There's no need to place insulation around the tunnel. However it should be on the bottom of the tunnel where the RS180's would reflect sound waves. The rule of thumb is, anywhere you can see bare MDF when looking into the woofer holes should be covered with either foam or fiberglass. Only 1" foam should be used inside the tunnel, of course.

Jim

[jcocomo]

Hey Jim,

I'm moving right along with the statement build. I really want to upload some pictures but I'm constantly running out of time! h: The two boxes are nearer to completion, this is what still needs to be done:
-add insulation
-build & install crossovers
-wire the cabinets
-router and install the rear panel
-build up the bases
-add veneer

Question: should the tunnel foam come flush to the outside of the rear panel?

Thank you,
John...

[Jim Holtz]

Question: should the tunnel foam come flush to the outside of the rear panel?

Thank you,
John...

I've built them both ways. Flush to the inside of the back baffle when I used a round hole and flush to the outside back of the rear baffle when I routed the mid tunnel square. I can't hear a difference. Either way is fine.

Jim

[jcocomo]

Statement Build Finished!

Hello All,

I have finished building the Statement loud speakers this weekend!
You can see most of the pictures I took posted at: https://www.htguide.com/forum/specia...tatement-build

Overall the build went reasonably well with the typical unexpected hitches which one learns as he goes. I think they look great. They are burning in as I write and I will post my initial reaction and setup issues in short order. I just wanted to get this out here tonight before the busy week begins. If any one has any questions don't hesitate to ask. Enjoy the pictures, I hope the link works.

Thanks,
John...

[Jim Holtz]

Statement Build Finished!

Hello All,

I have finished building the Statement loud speakers this weekend!
You can see most of the pictures I took posted at: https://www.htguide.com/forum/specia...tatement-build

Overall the build went reasonably well with the typical unexpected hitches which one learns as he goes. I think they look great. They are burning in as I write and I will post my initial reaction and setup issues in short order. I just wanted to get this out here tonight before the busy week begins. If any one has any questions don't hesitate to ask. Enjoy the pictures, I hope the link works.

Thanks,
John...

Hi John,

Beautiful! Extremely well done! :T

I'm looking forward to your listening impressions once they're burned in.

Jim

[DeathMonk]

Those are excellent looking

[jcocomo]

Listening impressions so far

Jim- Thank you for the complements! I am very happy with the final results of the build, the speakers make a real presence in the family room.

DeathMonk- thank you for the kind words.

I have been listening during the burn in and I must say they deliver a big sound. The drivers seem well integrated with well balanced coverage throughout the spectrum. The burn in time is about 15 hrs now and the sound has been improving as the run time increases. I am not much of an audio reviewer but I will give you my listening impression so far.

The bass is very good and goes deep, no hole here! Creates a very good foundation, like a wall coming straight at you. All low frequency instruments are very well reproduced with great definition and separation. A very real presence and true reproduction of the instruments, I'm very impressed and happy with the base performance.

I have never listened to ribbons before and I think these do a good job and with low distortion even at high levels. They seem more laid back then the domes I am use to but project more three dimensional. The mid range and high end are very well balanced and don’t smear the music. Instruments and vocals come across with ease and good separation. Good source material comes across great.

The speakers image well especially with certain tracks but I feel the sound in the middle could be a little wider overall. The stage to some degree seems somewhat further back or moderately narrow in the middle and is projected on the sides (with great clarity I might add). I feel some tweaking may be in order, either placement or component. In addition I feel it could use a little more "air" in the upper-mid to high range. The characteristic that may be defined as liveliness, unveiled, uninhibited sense. I think the moderately narrow middle and air may be related, so what ever improves one may improve both. Having said all this I will say overall they are really nice to listen to and I am enjoying all over again listening to my cd collection.

I think the design is great and that these speakers will respond to system changes no matter how small. I have some thoughts about tweaks but I feel I would be shooting in the dark. I welcome any feed back, questions or suggestions.

Regards,
John…

[ahaik]

The color looks familiar :W

What an amazing job ;x(

[Curt C]

Very nicely done, John!

I see by your attached pic that some of your midrange issues may be due to the close proximity of the speakers to the front and side walls. Pulling them into the room a bit further, and toeing them in some may help. The right speaker in particular is likely being compromised by the proximity of the wall and entertainment center.

C

[DeathMonk]

What kind of amp do you have driving them?

[Jim Holtz]

The speakers image well especially with certain tracks but I feel the sound in the middle could be a little wider overall. The stage to some degree seems somewhat further back or moderately narrow in the middle and is projected on the sides (with great clarity I might add). I feel some tweaking may be in order, either placement or component. In addition I feel it could use a little more "air" in the upper-mid to high range. The characteristic that may be defined as liveliness, unveiled, uninhibited sense. I think the moderately narrow middle and air may be related, so what ever improves one may improve both. Having said all this I will say overall they are really nice to listen to and I am enjoying all over again listening to my cd collection.

I think the design is great and that these speakers will respond to system changes no matter how small. I have some thoughts about tweaks but I feel I would be shooting in the dark. I welcome any feed back, questions or suggestions.

Regards,
John…

Hi John,

Your Statements look great!

No surprise that I agree with Curt. I've attached a picture of my pair of Mini's in my living room that has a similar placement situation to yours, in that, I have an entertainment center between the Mini's with little clearance in the center. I experience a similar sound to what you're describing from them because of placement. When I take them downstairs to my listening room, they image like crazy. They simply have to have some room to breathe with the open back transmission line design.

Please disregard the "bunny" decorations gracing my Mini's. My wife is chief decorator in charge on this level of our house.

Jim