NewB working on Noobster 2way

[jbruns]

Hi All,

This is my first post here... I have been troll'n around here for a while now, just learning. Played around with building some boxes in teenage years (for cars) but now I am bringing it back and moved to the home theater. This is my thead for my first project. The Noobster.

Thanks to augerpro for his design...

https://www.htguide.com/forum/showpost.php?p=397451&postcount=44

[jbruns]

So I need help with the Xover

So This is my first xover I have ever done. I have some electronics experience so I understand about 95% of this So, can someone please comment on this layout and if the connections look correct?



Edit: added Co design

[augerpro]

Sorry I missed this post for so long! Your XO looks correct. I do have two suggestions though. I would use these terminal strips for R4 and R5 so you can quickly adjust the tweeter. You really must adjust this to what sounds good for you as it has a large impact on tonal balance and that's typically a personal taste thing to large extent.

Also consider paralleling two 36ohm resistors together for R10 to double power handling from 10 to 20 watts. If you run these fullrange it won't be a problem, but if you cross to a sub the potential is there to over power these. You can try it how it is for now but when you start listening to these check to see if those resistors get warm during use. If they do, double up on them.

Which brings me to another suggestion. Don't permanently install these in the box until you have tweaked the tweeter to taste and are sure that R10 is not getting warm. I usually just run the wires from the drivers out through the port to the crossover until I finish tweaking.

What are you going to do for cabinets? Will this be for 2 channel stereo or and HT setup? Good luck on the build, I look forward to seeing the results!

[---k---]

FYI, you can get those terminal strips at Radio Shack or similar local places.

Also, live with the speakers for a while before adjusting the tweeter level. You may find that what you like initially, you'll tire of over time and want it lower.

[jbruns]

Thanks for the replies guys. Right now, this is for the HT setup. But they might get moved to computer room or bedroom once completed. I had already picked up some
terminal strips from PE and will do some playing. I just wanted to make sure this was correct. Since the T1 in CO design shows a “-“ where (I think) it should be a “+” and it threw me off a bit.

This is basically my first build that is not a sub or for a car, so this is my “self-experiment” to see if I like what I build for myself. I currently have a pair for B&W DM602 (for surrounds) and I am building these "Noobsters" to see what they sound like and compare them. (I understand they will not be they same). I also have some old-ass Cerwin Vegas as my front channels in my 5.1 and I imagine the Noobsters will have a much clearer/cleaner sound.

[jbruns]

Also consider paralleling two 36ohm resistors together for R10 to double power handling from 10 to 20 watts. If you run these fullrange it won't be a problem, but if you cross to a sub the potential is there to over power these. You can try it how it is for now but when you start listening to these check to see if those resistors get warm during use. If they do, double up on them.

If I need to double this up, could I use a two 16 Ohm with a 4 Ohm to make the 36 ohm?

[augerpro]

Since the T1 in CO design shows a “-“ where (I think) it should be a “+” and it threw me off a bit.

Doh! Actually I missed that. My XO schematic is correct.Being and LR2 design the tweeter's polarity is reversed compared to the woofer. So the amp+ wire leaving R4 does indeed go to the negative terminal on the tweeter, and the tweeter's positive terminal goes to ground (amp- terminal).

[augerpro]

If I need to double this up, could I use a two 16 Ohm with a 4 Ohm to make the 36 ohm?

You could, but Dayton does make a 36ohm, so it would be cheaper to get that, unless you already had the four 16 ohm and two 4 ohm resistors (for each speaker) on hand.

[Sakura]

If I need to double this up, could I use a two 16 Ohm with a 4 Ohm to make the 36 ohm?

He's saying to use two 36 ohm resistors in parallel to get the 18 ohms, but, an 18 ohms which can handle more power.

[jbruns]

This may be a stupid question, but I have to ask

augerpro, you note in you build thread...

Speaker placement is intended as pointing straight ahead with the tweeters to the outside and just above ear level. If these are on short stands and the tweeter is low, consider flipping these upside down.

My setup will be ear level for me, but is there a top/bottom on a tweeter? Or would you consider flipping these because of baffle diffraction of the tweeter?

It appears in you pic you have the terminals towards the top... Which I would think is already upside down??



Thanks for the help guys!

[augerpro]

If the tweeters are at about ear height you're fine. IF they would have been considerably below that, then I suggested flipping the whole speaker upside down so the tweeter is on the bottom and the woofer is on top. In your case I wouldn't worry about it.

[TopherGreen81]

Hey jbruns I am a complete noob to XO's but I think you forgot R3 .16 ohm resistor. I am sorry if you meant to leave it out.

[ThomasW]

TG81

Resistor values that low aren't needed in the circuit

[augerpro]

R3 and R8 are simply the resistance of the inductor. When you look at specified gauge and value on PE you'll see the same DCR listed.

[TopherGreen81]

augerpro I am about to build your MTM design for a center along with 4 TM's for a 5.1 system. On your crossover for the MTM I guess that R3 and R7 are not needed either right.
PS sorry not trying to HIJACK here

[ThomasW]

PS sorry not trying to HIJACK here

How about starting with questions regarding your project?

[jbruns]

Done with construction!

Hey All,

Well, Its been a while since I posted. I completed these a few weeks back, but still play'n with the x-over. Right now its setup with R5 at 5.1 ohm and R4 at 3.3. I just went with the middle ground to start with. I like it where its at so haven't been motivated to play around and try other values. I do have other values to swap in/out, but I been working building stands for these things.


Here are some pics for your enjoyment.

[jbruns]

Hey,

Almost for got a pic of the speaker stands.
Also here is my photo Album [HIGH BANDWIDTH]

I took the build idea from "The TNT Stubby" and some of my own creativity

[augerpro]

Wow, I never expected anyone to actually use the PE cabs since this is a budget design. Looks great though!

Those thick baffles sure mask the back wave of the speaker though. I think a chamfer would have been a bit more preferable here, but if you don't hear anything wrong in the midrange then I suppose it's ok. Let me know what you like AND dislike. If I find a trend I may revisit the design to "freshen" it up.

So are you using just the pair, or is this a HT setup?