Hurricane Nut (T-Nut) Evaluation

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  • David_D
    Senior Member
    • Feb 2008
    • 197

    #46
    That is also a fine plan Steve.
    I would think you may have some challages trying to get them close enough the speaker cut out, but one could also tap those holes off center to the nut. If I was going to attempt this I would probably choose aluminum. In case one of the nuts gets nicked while trying to bevel the inside of the speaker cut out. My job requires me to use alot of aluminum and I use a standard wood router & bit to put chamfers and round overs on aluminum pieces, so I know standard carbide cutters can easily handle cutting the aluminum.
    Honestly, it sounds like a lot of work.
    Good luck - let us know.
    -David

    As we try and consider
    We receive all we venture to give

    Comment

    • evilskillit
      Senior Member
      • Oct 2008
      • 468

      #47
      Bump.

      Just thought I'd bump this as a great piece of DIY info. Ive been talking to people lately about driver attachment and t-nut installation and I'm always searching up and referencing this thread. Thought I'd drag it back up to the top for a minute for all the new guys that never got to see it when it was made.

      Comment

      • kingpin
        Senior Member
        • Jun 2006
        • 958

        #48
        Threaded insert nuts. Love them!
        After using hurricane nuts, t-nuts and losing my nuts after even epoxying them in, I went to a woodworkers shop and found these.
        Try them out.

        Mike
        Call me "MIKE"
        "PROJECT OVERKILL" :B:B -WWMTMSS- :B:B
        "PROJECT OVERKILL" is now the :B:B "mini-me's" :B:B
        CLICK HERE TO SEE PROJECT OVERKILL
        CLICK HERE TO SEE ALL MY BUILD PICS
        "PROJECT OVERKILL" IS GOING UNDER THE KNIFE. :B :B "mini-me's :B :B !!
        Dual sealed 18" Mach-5 ixl 18.4 subs

        Comment

        • evilskillit
          Senior Member
          • Oct 2008
          • 468

          #49
          Did you forget to include your link? I googled threaded insert nuts and got all kinds of different results.

          Comment

          • kingpin
            Senior Member
            • Jun 2006
            • 958

            #50
            You can see them in place here. The ones i used are the ones with the flange on top. You can use them from the front or the back. I chose the front in case i ever had any problems i could remove them easily.

            Images not available

            Shop Hardware Collection on Lee Valley. Browse our extensive selection of functional, decorative fittings to help you find the right finishing touches for any project.


            all sorts of different lengths and sizes. I did use them with cap head bolts though. They will work with 1/4-20 mochine bolts too.
            Last edited by theSven; 09 June 2023, 20:27 Friday. Reason: Remove broken image links
            Call me "MIKE"
            "PROJECT OVERKILL" :B:B -WWMTMSS- :B:B
            "PROJECT OVERKILL" is now the :B:B "mini-me's" :B:B
            CLICK HERE TO SEE PROJECT OVERKILL
            CLICK HERE TO SEE ALL MY BUILD PICS
            "PROJECT OVERKILL" IS GOING UNDER THE KNIFE. :B :B "mini-me's :B :B !!
            Dual sealed 18" Mach-5 ixl 18.4 subs

            Comment

            • Space
              Senior Member
              • Aug 2009
              • 118

              #51
              +1 on Mike's suggestion (and Dan N before that) to use threaded insert nuts. In fact David D could fix those two loose screws with a couple of inserts. I had a project where the hurricane nuts (actually called "propeller nuts" at the local hardware store) kept spinning out because I had the bolt circle diameter a little off, and the bolts were going in with an angle and cross threading. I ended up pushing all the hurricane nuts out and turning them around backwards, pinching them with my fingers while tightening the bolts (this was an open baffle). Worked fine that way but obviously not possible with a typical box. Must admit that the threaded inserts would not have helped my error with the circle diameter. ops:

              Comment

              • kingpin
                Senior Member
                • Jun 2006
                • 958

                #52
                I think most people who use any of these items fail to understand how important it is to have them sitting as straight as possible and lined up properly to the bolt that is being used. If whatever you are using isn't sitting straight or is not lined up properly to the bolt it will pull to one side and unseat it. For the majority who are using mdf it cant withstand this and breaks apart or strips easily.
                Call me "MIKE"
                "PROJECT OVERKILL" :B:B -WWMTMSS- :B:B
                "PROJECT OVERKILL" is now the :B:B "mini-me's" :B:B
                CLICK HERE TO SEE PROJECT OVERKILL
                CLICK HERE TO SEE ALL MY BUILD PICS
                "PROJECT OVERKILL" IS GOING UNDER THE KNIFE. :B :B "mini-me's :B :B !!
                Dual sealed 18" Mach-5 ixl 18.4 subs

                Comment

                • Hank
                  Super Senior Member
                  • Jul 2002
                  • 1345

                  #53
                  I used H nuts on my Tempest Sonosub - installed with epoxy - worked fine. However, now when I need an internal thread, I'm with Dan on this:
                  I never cared for t-nuts and prefer to use threaded inserts like these:
                  Attached Thumbnails

                  Comment

                  • 1Michael
                    Senior Member
                    • Sep 2006
                    • 293

                    #54
                    I use the T-nuts with a good dose from a hot glue stick, and hammer the little buggers in. Just be careful not to get any glue in the threads.
                    Michael
                    Chesapeake Va.

                    Comment

                    • ---k---
                      Ultra Senior Member
                      • Nov 2005
                      • 5204

                      #55
                      I use drywall screws, wood screws, and kreg screws. no nuts. :P

                      Just to cause trouble: since I've been using just screws, I haven't had problems. I have stripped out a hole or two, I'm sure. But when I do, it is easy to get the screw out of the hole. And before I put the screw back in, I just put a little glue on a wood match stick, stick it in the hole, let it sit for a minute or two, then drill the screw it. Works great. I think someone here told me that trick.

                      I just don't see the need for fancy nuts, except for macadamia nuts.
                      - Ryan

                      CJD Ochocinco! ND140/BC25SC06 MTM & TM
                      CJD Khanspires - A Dayton RS28/RS150/RS225 WMTMW
                      CJD Khancenter - A Dayton RS28/RS150/RS180 WTMW Center

                      Comment

                      • kingpin
                        Senior Member
                        • Jun 2006
                        • 958

                        #56
                        Originally posted by ---k---

                        I have stripped out a hole or two, I'm sure. But when I do, it is easy to get the screw out of the hole. And before I put the screw back in, I just put a little glue on a wood match stick, stick it in the hole, let it sit for a minute or two, then drill the screw it.

                        Easy there MacGyver. :B :B
                        Call me "MIKE"
                        "PROJECT OVERKILL" :B:B -WWMTMSS- :B:B
                        "PROJECT OVERKILL" is now the :B:B "mini-me's" :B:B
                        CLICK HERE TO SEE PROJECT OVERKILL
                        CLICK HERE TO SEE ALL MY BUILD PICS
                        "PROJECT OVERKILL" IS GOING UNDER THE KNIFE. :B :B "mini-me's :B :B !!
                        Dual sealed 18" Mach-5 ixl 18.4 subs

                        Comment

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