Specific Driver Mounting Hardware

[Blazin]

So i've searched, I know the rule of thumb.. I know PE sells the stuff.. but why hasn't there been some sort of sticky that lists specific drivers and the associated mounting hardware? Why not make everyones life easier and list proven solutions.. it would make ordering from PE much easier


Tweeter:

Dayton DC28FS - #6 Machine Screw with T-Nuts


Woofer:

Dayton RS150S 6" - #8 Machine Screw with T-Nuts
Dayton SD315-88 12" - #10 Machine Screw with T-Nuts

I'll get specifics on the machine screws later today, kind of forgot if they are
-24 or -32

I realize that the DC28FS and RS150 don't need T-Nuts, panhead screws would work just fine, but this was used for my first run/proto box..

[Geoff Gunnell]

Good idea, Blazin! You might email this to PE -- it wouldn't take too long for them to add "Suggested Fasteners" with PE part #'s to the product pages for at least the most popular drivers.

[Concillian]

Unfortunately I prefer the look of machined screws with hex cap heads, and PE doesn't sell them (well they do, but the security ones, which is not what I want either) and Madisound's are only sold with T-nuts (prefer hurricane nuts from PE) and are crazy expensive compared to what they should be. I had to get my screws from a local fastener place instead.

[servicetech]

Drywall screws work fine for small drivers. Anything over 8" should use T-nuts.

[Ray_D]

Everyone has a different opinion

I use these for tweeters

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=081-435

These for woofers

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=081-425

And 10-32 socket head screws for subwoofers with hurricane nuts if plywood

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=081-1082

or barbed inserts if MDF

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...umber=081-1094.

I use barbed inserts on smaller hardware if I think I'm going to take it apart many times.

[---k---]

T-nuts can be evil in MDF. For my last couple of projects, I've just used drywall screws, the pe screws, or machine screws into the plywood and have been fine - including for my sub. T-nuts or any kind of back-up nut isn't worth the effort. I've taken my drivers in and out a dozen times, no problem holding. And if I ever do have a problem, stick a wood matchstick in the hole with some glue, let it dry, redrill.

[Jim Holtz]

Just say no to T-nuts, huricane nuts or barbed inserts for drivers. Once you have one spin while trying to take a driver out of a finished cabinet, and you will, you'll know what I mean. They are not worth it.

The #6 and #8 deep thread pan head screws Ray linked to are perfect.

HTH

Jim

[Brian Bunge]

I'm with Jim. T-nuts in MDF suck. I used the deep thread pan head screws even to mount the Dayon RS 15" subs. Now, when I built some Tumult based subs I used cap head screws and threaded inserts, but the inserts are much less likely to spin on you than T-nuts.

[Blazin]

T-Nuts suck a lot.. lol

I'm using #6 x 1 -1/4" dry wall screws to mount my RS150s and DC28FS.. still using the TNuts for the sub; however, My front baffle is 3/4" MDF with 1/4" Plywood backing.. so the T-nuts grab a little better.. keyword.. A LITTLE.

I'll never use t-nuts again.. I'll just use coarse thread #10 drywall screws, i may even switch over..

[kingpin]

t-nuts. :M
hurricane nuts. :M
inserts with epoxy. :T ;x(

hex key bolts look purrrrrrttttttyyyyy. :B :B
I drilled out the holes in my rs180's, 270's, and the 12" subs I had to accept the hex headed bolts. I like the industrial look of them.

my .o2

[Hdale85]

I agree stay away from T-nuts and Hurricane nuts. For drivers just screw directly into the wood. I like madisounds hex head screws they have that don't come with nuts they are just wood screws.

[Brian Bunge]

In the future I may just buy the screws from Madisound that have the hex heads on them. Gives you the look of the bolts but without having to use T-nuts!

[Hdale85]

Yeah I was thinking about ordering a bunch....For the next speakers I definitely will.

[gmed]

I have used these in my project. Very professional look.

screws

[Dennis H]

I dunno. Those socket head screws stick out too much for my taste, especially on tweeters. I like the look of pan head screws.

[Steve Manning]

I use brass inserts something like this, http://www.mcmaster.com/itm/find.ASP...ring=90016A007 you can actually find them at Lowes in their specialty fastener section. Then you use a machine screw and they work great for taking your drivers in and out without stripping the wood. I add a drop or two of epoxy to keep them secure. They give a very clean professional look to things.

Steve

[brent_s]

One suggestion I read on the Hurricane nuts that seems to make a big difference...drill your pilot hole a bit size smaller than PE's recommendation. Not sure if everyone does it this way, but I use a bolt and washer to draw the H-nut into the hole instead of hammering them in. I had a few spin loose just drawing them in using the recommended pilot hole size. When I stepped down a drill bit size, they're solid as I can ever imagine needing them to be.

-Brent