Electrical Work in New HT Room

[kfr01]

I've found very little good information out there..

Here's some:

http://www.psihq.com/iread/strpelec.htm

From that page:
"Electronics grade power distribution panels have a number of primary differences from a standard electrical distribution panel. An electronics grade power distribution panel and wiring system will always have the below configuration.
* The primary neutral conductor and the neutral lug are oversized, (sized two times NEC requirements), to deal with harmonic currents generated by switch mode power supplies.
* The neutral conductors in branch circuits are home runs (never shared or used by more than one circuit).
* Panel grounding and conduit ground is case ground and a separate isolated ground buss bar will be installed. This isolated ground buss bar will be connected directly (and only) to the service entrance ground buss bar with a stranded and insulated copper conductor sized appropriately for the distance involved.
* Circuit breakers are electronics grade "bolt in" breakers.
* Only Isolated Ground outlets will be used (phase, neutral, ground & case ground)."

and some resources here:

http://www.copper.org/applications/electrical/pq/homepage.html

From that site, this in particular:

http://www.copper.org/applications/e...pq/primer.html

My take-aways from that page include:

* Double-Size Neutrals, or Separate Neutrals per Phase
* Separation of Sensitive Electronic Loads From Other Equipment
---- "power sensitive equipment from separate branch circuits emanating from separate panel boards, fed from separate feeders back to the main service entrance. The neutrals and grounding conductors need to be kept separate also. A dedicated circuit means separate phase wires, a separate neutral, with a separate grounding conductor, run in its own separate metal conduit, back to the source."
* Metal Conduit
---- "Metal conduit, properly grounded, provides shielding of the conductors from RF energy."
* Upsize Conductor Gage
* Test Ground Resistance, Upgrade if Necessary


My new home was built in 1936. The home inspection revealed that over half of the power receptacles have reversed polarity and that the panel / fuse box is quite old. So, I'm expecting a major electrical system upgrade as I am a both a stereo and computer nut. Fortunately, my computer/stereo room will be located in the basement close to the service inlet, and the walls to my new HT room aren't framed in yet. These features can only make any tweaks to the room easier, so I'm starting my research now.

Comments, questions? Thanks!

[Glen B]

I am certain that the "electronic grade" panels are primarily intended for computer loads although some of features would benefit A/V equipment. My only concern about the use of such "esoteric" [for want of a better term] electrical panels is reliability and availability of replacement parts in the long-term.

Manufacturers such as GE and Square D have been around for a long time, are dependable, known and trusted. Manufacturers of products for the high-end audio/video market that were doing quite well only to go out of business are too many to count. As an example, let us say you install an electrical panel from an esoteric manufacturer. Later down the line, they go out of business and you need replacement or additional breakers. Unless another manufacturer has breakers fit and are UL listed for use in your off-brand panel [rare] you're out of luck since it is a code violation to install unlisted breakers.

Another thing is the issue of reliability. Again, the old standards like GE and SQD are trusted brands. Years ago, Federal Pacific Electric (FPE) brand electrical panels were installed in many homes. In the electrical industry, FPE panels are now a pariah. These panels have a history of failures with breakers seizing up, etc. (see link). Just my personal feelings on the issue.

http://www.inspect-ny.com/fpe/fpepanel.htm

[kfr01]

I am certain that the "electronic grade" panels are primarily intended for computer loads although some of features would benefit A/V equipment. My only concern about the use of such "esoteric" [for want of a better term] electrical panels is reliability and availability of replacement parts in the long-term.

Manufacturers such as GE and Square D have been around for a long time, are dependable, known and trusted.

Noted. I will likely go with GE. Little chance they won't be around. Any thoughts on the wiring strategies?

Thanks,

Karl

[ThomasW]

GE has a nice 'whole-house' surger protector that snaps in a dual breaker slot.

[kfr01]

GE has a nice 'whole-house' surger protector that snaps in a dual breaker slot.

Now -that- would be nice. With all my electronic gear, it is a pain in the butt to surge power strip everything.

Thanks!

... Any comments on the wiring?

[ThomasW]

... Any comments on the wiring?

That's not an area where you'd benefit from my limited knowledge....:wink:

[Glen B]

Noted. I will likely go with GE. Little chance they won't be around. Any thoughts on the wiring strategies?

Thanks,

Karl

Non-metallic sheathed cable [a.k.a. Romex] is fine. Use decent quality receptacles. Steer clear of cheap residential grade outlets and go for commercial or industrial grade instead. The latter are sturdier and will provide better grip.

[brac]

If you want to do it right, the way to go is sqd... real sqd... NOT HOME.. home is a stab where real is a pinch pressure system. A little more money but stab in breakers go bad.
Brac

[Bob]

How is the wiring project going? I ask because I recently purchased a Topaz transformer and am planning my own rewiring and have found the websites that you mentioned very useful.

[kfr01]

Bob: We close on the home the 28th of this month. I plan on doing a walk through with an electrician and a list of ideas. I'm planning so far in advance because I know if I don't come out with a plan, I'll be repainting some bedroom in the latest HGTV color from day one and the wife will push my project to the back burner. :-)

The nice thing is that the service entrance / breaker is literally a couple meters away from where the front of my HT room will be and is not framed in yet. I can probably go bonkers with wiring as it will all by easy and cheap because of the short runs.

[brac]

I must repeat what was said.

USE SQ D... Real SQ D not home... the difference is huge.. a home type breaker will fit in just about anybodys panel, and it is a system that does not hold up. Real Square D breakers actually clamp onto the bus.... no pansy stab like GE or sqd home.

Brac

[kfr01]

brac: Thank you for the advice. That's one tip I'll be sure to take up.

Anybody know any good electricians in the Milwaukee, WI area?

[ToddAnisman]

Now -that- would be nice. With all my electronic gear, it is a pain in the butt to surge power strip everything.

Thanks!

... Any comments on the wiring?

HI KFR-

I've done extensive installs- The concepot of home Running neutrals is excellent. Whne I am building commercial Recording studios, I insist on all Elecctrical to be home Run'd for each outlet back to the box. This adds a ton of expense, but I feel it's very worth it.

A) It reduces Ground Potential- Can vastly reduce hum. Some houses exhibit as much as 10V peak to peak on the neutral when referenced to ground. That's huge and has the potential to make a LOT of noise in your system (keep in mind that unbalanced connections typicall run at less than 1 volt!!!)

B) You will hear less switching noise from your noisy fridge, AC etc.

C) You will get shocked less in future installaations- There is almost no possibility of getting a neutral and hot reversed in this design, which means that once you test the initial install, safety is that much more guaranteed.

My house was built in 1923, and has many of these problems. I ran 3 20a circuits to my studio, and home run'd all of them bcak to the box. My performance is excellent, although I really want to upgrade my whole house electrical.

-Todd A.

[whoaru99]

A) It reduces Ground Potential- Can vastly reduce hum. Some houses exhibit as much as 10V peak to peak on the neutral when referenced to ground. That's huge and has the potential to make a LOT of noise in your system (keep in mind that unbalanced connections typicall run at less than 1 volt!!!)

-Todd A.

Where does the 10V come from?

Is that from using those dual circuit, three wire shared neutral 120V arrangements?

Or, simply from voltage drop due to the length and load on the circuit?

Combination of both, or neither?

[whoaru99]

What I've been told (on this forum) is...

IG circuits are of limited (no?) benefit in residential wiring.

Keep all HT gear on the same phase of the panel via the dedicated circuits.

[brac]

What I've been told (on this forum) is...

IG circuits are of limited (no?) benefit in residential wiring.

Keep all HT gear on the same phase of the panel via the dedicated circuits.

I hate to agrue but as an electrician for 25 years I disagree with this, unless someone can give a good reason.

Buy doing this you would create an unbalanced load, for the whole system. Not a good thing. I've have built and designed full Data rooms and the goal is always a balanced system.

Brac

[Paul H]

I hate to agrue but as an electrician for 25 years I disagree with this, unless someone can give a good reason.

Buy doing this you would create an unbalanced load, for the whole system. Not a good thing. I've have built and designed full Data rooms and the goal is always a balanced system.

Brac

You're correct, but not for a typical home theatre - but only because it just doesn't pull enough current to worry about load balancing on the overall power panel. I can play any movie at tear-the-walls-down volume without tripping a 15Amp breaker with my sub, projector, 6 speakers, receiver and 5 separate 2-channel amps.

The idea behind using the same phase is to prevent/reduce ground loop hums caused by minor voltage leaks along ground paths, the theory being that using a single voltage source and a single source ground if possible will reduce any problems - sounds good, but I couldn't state for certain that it's correct.

Paul