RSP1066- How hot should it get??

[gopies]

Hi guys,
I have had a custom made AV rack for my Rotel gear (see images). I have noticed that the 1066 gets quite warm - moreso than the RMB1075. When I had all my equipment on the floor I recall that the amp would get a bit warm but honestly can't recall how hot the 1066 would get.

What experience have others had?
Cheers

http://www.htguide.com/forum/images/attach/jpg.gif

[Azeke]

I would switch and put the 1066 on top of the rack for better heat dissipation.

BTW, that's a beautiful rack.

Regards,

Azeke

[dali]

I have the same experience. My RSP1066 gets a lot warmer than my RMB1066. I have the amp in a shelf that's not much wider or higher than the amp itself, but it never gets warm to the touch. The RSP1066 on the other hand had to be placed on top of my rack, open air all around (except bottom of course).

[gopies]

Thanks guys.
I forgot to mention that it overheats even with the door ajar by 45degrees.
The back holes aren't all that large.
What do you think if remove the glass shelve above the rsp1066 which will effectively double the space it has currently available.
cheers
gopies

[aarsoe]

Instead of moving glass shelved, you could try to create a chimney effect.
So holes on the bottom of the rack and on the top and ensure that air can flow freely between the two.
Only thing you have to watch out for is airpockets where the air is standing still.
Alternatively try using a 12V fan on 5V - should be almost in-audible a couple of feet away.

[gopies]

I am not sure what you mean. It would be pointless to put holes on the top and bottom as it would destroy the furniture piece. I moved the glass shelving above the 1066 and it has made some improvement.
When you stick your head in the cabinet it feels that the air isn't moving so my next step is to create bigger openings in the backing.http://www.htguide.com/forum/images/attach/jpg.gif

[Azeke]

Hey is that a vent behind there?

If it is, it shouldn't be blocked.

You may want to move your rack, just my thoughts.

Regards,

Azeke

[aarsoe]

The warm air will alwayes try to get out into cold air - and the longer you have between the air intake and outlet the more the air movement will accelerate and thereby create a pull effect that will increase the air flow.
The photo of your back of the rack shows many smaller holes all over that courses the air to have to many places it can come out of without any sucktion effect - so cover the ones in the middle and only have holes at the bottom and the top.
Please ensure that the holes are large enough though so that you dont create the opposite effect and have a sauna..
Hopes it makes it a bit clearer..

PS. If it works you should be able to feel the air being pulled in at the entry holes with your hand.. But naturally only when the equipment if getting warm, so not from the point you turn it on..

[gopies]

[QUOTE=Azeke]Hey is that a vent behind there?

If it is, it shouldn't be blocked.

Thanks Azeke. That vent on the wall used to be the old central heating - so it is currently blocked. Probably another problem may be that even though hot air rises it strikes the glass. Now if the glass didn't reach all the way to the back of the cabinet it wouldn't be an issue - but it doesn't. I would guess that this results in air not moving - what do you think Azeke?

Aarsoe -it does make sense. Unfortunately there are no intake holes as the front of the cabinet is a glass/wooden door. I keep this ajar while using my HT. What I had planned to do was increase the openings at the back of the shelf where the 1066 is. Currently there are the 3 holes which are 5cm in diameter as you can see in photo (the hole where the red/orange cable is enetering is where the 1066 is).

cheers
gopies

[pbarata]

My system is also inside cherry furniture. The back is quick open, allowing easy natural ventilation and easy cable assembly. While RMB-1075 only gets warm, the RSP-0166 unit normally gets very hot. This is really a characteristic of RSP-1066, after a 1 hour of continuous working, I only hope that such a high working temperature does not stress too much components inside.

[GosonFletchy]

Why does everyone stack units above their amps? You amp will not feel hot because it has huge heat sinks inside to help remove the heat quicker. The heat from the unit will heat up the air, the hot air rises UP, right under your other equipment. I admit that the setups look awesome, but if you are going to stack your equipment this way I would seriously think about installing some outboard cooling fans to try and pull the air in another direction, rather than letting the hot air rise up underneath your other equipment.

G.

[gopies]

gosonfletchy.... I agree with this in principal and I was lucky in getting glass which is pretty thick - therefore being able to hold significant weight if the need arose.
cheers

[Stevebez]

I have had a torid time ventilating my system (1075, 1080 RSP 1066 now 1068, dvd player... and digital sat box).

All units without fans got to the point that they were almost too hot to touch. I guess this is when it gets kind of borderline. With fans hot to the touch but amps are cool at the base where air comes in and warm / hot at the middle / heatsink locations. This is quite fine I woudl think.

Amps are on bottom base shelf due to weight and have the 1068 & sat / dvd on top shelf - sorry no pics yet but coming soon.

Had to install fans in base of cabinet to push air from bottom up through amps ... this has cooled the amps VERY effectively but has left the top shelf somewhat static. Added a further fan at top of unit to extract heat and this has worked well ... mistake I made wsa putting "ventilation" holes in middle shelf above amps and on which the dvd , rsp rest. Oops as you said above the heat instead of being isolated to the bottom shelf now rises up through these units and cooks them ... sealing these shelf vents off now and adding further extraction fan to top of cabinet. Wanted to have positive pressure in cabinet to keep dust out etc and think will still be able to achieve this with 1 further extraction fan.

Have a thermal sensor that kicks in when heat gets too much and fans start running... works pretty well but am toying with fan voltages to make the fan noise less intrusive.

All in all a massive exercise that I probably would not do again but build a custom shelf with alot of thought given to functionality, cooling, and aesthetics ... think they are all equally important.

Rgds Steve

Will try get pics of the setup soon ...

[Azeke]

Thanks Azeke. That vent on the wall used to be the old central heating - so it is currently blocked. Probably another problem may be that even though hot air rises it strikes the glass. Now if the glass didn't reach all the way to the back of the cabinet it wouldn't be an issue - but it doesn't. I would guess that this results in air not moving - what do you think Azeke?

cheers
gopies

Okay, my quick thoughts, althought you may not like them. Depending on the thickness of the glass, thermal conductivity, just joking. I think you should cut out the rear panel (or a part of it) and move the cabinet further from the wall. Plan B, buy some ventilation fans, but I wouldn't use the second option just because of the additional noise factor.

Hope this helps,

Azeke