Very nice, the system looks great, the center brings the front together nicely.
Pictures of your B&W Set-up
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B&W 800 Diamonds (L/R), HTM2 Diamond (C), 802 Diamonds (SL/SR), Paradigm Signature Sub 25 (LFE), Reference Servo 15a x 2 (Stereo subs), Lexicon MC-12Bv5EQ SSP, Bryston 28B-SST2x 2, 7B-SST2x2, 4B-SST C Series, BDP-2, Oppo UDP-205, Pioneer Elite Kuro PRO-150FD, Furman SPR-20i, IT-Reference, Eastlink Maestro PVR, Xbox One & 360, PS3, Siltech Golden Ridge II, Ruby Hill IIx2, 330ix2, Kimber Kable PK10 Gold, Tonic, PBJ, Cadence, HD19e, HD19, OPT-1, HDSW 4x1, Ixos 6003, Harmony 1000- Bottom
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Here are a couple of updated pictures of the system. I added an HTM2 and a salamander design synergy TV stand. I also mounted the TV on the wall. I am very very happy with the results. I still can’t believe how big of a difference the HTM2 made. I am also debating on pushing the left speaker a little bit further out to the left. No walls on the right. Speakers are just under 8 ft. apart now. With how relatively big the center is, I am starting to think that 8ft apart is not far enough.Leo,
Saludos
My HT: B&W 804D fronts, HTM4D center, 805D rears, Classe CA-2300 Main amp, Preamp Stereo CLASSE CP800, Preamp Multi Marantz AV8801, Parasound A31 center and Surround Amp, Source Oppo BDP-95 screen Samsung 55" UE55d8000 SVS SB12-NSD
Stereo: B&W 804S fronts, Pre: Denon AVR-2809 Amp: Rotel 1582, Source Marantz CD5004.- Bottom
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BVLDARI Love it!!!
I was thinking about the Rosenut finish and ended up with Piano Black... there's still part of me that goes back and forth on what I should've gotten. Should get a whole second system. LMAO.Digital Audio makes me Happy.
-Dan- Bottom
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I know. I know. I got Piano Black for the front 3 because they make a definite statement. I got Rosenut for the surrounds because they disappear.Kal Rubinson
_______________________________
"Music in the Round"
Senior Contributing Editor, Stereophile
http://forum.stereophile.com/category/music-round- Bottom
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Hello everybody,
Today I am proud to share with you al, my little story and some pictures.
First I want to thank the person(s) who put this forum together. I have been reading a lot and I still do. Learning all the time.
One thing I have learned is that it takes a lot of time to build a great project. Patience is the key. A second thing I learned is positioning to find the best spot for listening sessions. I also had to learn about currency.( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WjNfhsqu86s if not allowed please remove link)
I saw many great and lovely set-ups. Congratulations to you all.
I can't write like some of you, but here is my little story.ops:
It all started more than a year ago. I wanted a new CD player. So after reading a lot of reviews, I went to a dealer. After 3 to 4 weeks my new gear finally arrived. After hearing it, i decided very quickly that nice gear should have a decent rack. For Christmas I got a 3D Blu-Ray player from the greatest man in the world.
When I am busy, the tuner plays mostly at -77, -75. My system goes from -80 to above 0. The sound is warm and very detailed. When listening at -65 (tuner or CD), I can only say wow. At -55 I'm blown away. Room size approximately 7.45 * 4.35 meters.
The sound is so good that I've decided to buy a vinyl player.
Each day I have my wow effect. It's like a dream come true.
I hope you enjoy the pictures.
Have a good listening and a fine day.
Greetings,
KatrienKatrien
B&W 683,
HK980 TU, HK980 HD, HK980 HK, HK 3D BLU-RAY player BDT30.
Wishlist:
Pro-ject xTension 9 with 9cc Evolution tonearm
Ortofon 2m Silver (If there isn't any cartridge delivered with the turntable)
QED Reference Audio analog interconnect (For tuner, CD player and Blu-ray player)- Bottom
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What do you have for gear? I'm glad your liking the 683's :-)
Sent from my iPhone using the Tapatalk appBowers & Wilkins 683 Speakers
Rotel RB-1090 2 Channel Amp
Rotel RC-1082 Stereo Pre Amp
Rotel RCD-1072 CD Player
Pro-Ject Debut Carbon w/ Ortofon 2M Red (sitting on a piece of slate supported by 3 "solid tech feet of silence" isolation feet)
Rotel RLC-1040 Power Conditioner
Shynyata Research SR-Z1 Power Outlet & Venom 3 Power Cords x 4
Tara Labs RSC Vector 1 Speaker Cables & Interconnects
Pioneer PDP-5070HD 50" Plasma
Playstation 3
Shaw HD PVR
Primacoustic Room Treatments- Bottom
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Katrien
B&W 683,
HK980 TU, HK980 HD, HK980 HK, HK 3D BLU-RAY player BDT30.
Wishlist:
Pro-ject xTension 9 with 9cc Evolution tonearm
Ortofon 2m Silver (If there isn't any cartridge delivered with the turntable)
QED Reference Audio analog interconnect (For tuner, CD player and Blu-ray player)- Bottom
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Hello everybody,
Today I am proud to share with you al, my little story and some pictures.
First I want to thank the person(s) who put this forum together. I have been reading a lot and I still do. Learning all the time.
One thing I have learned is that it takes a lot of time to build a great project. Patience is the key. A second thing I learned is positioning to find the best spot for listening sessions. I also had to learn about currency.( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WjNfhsqu86s if not allowed please remove link)
I saw many great and lovely set-ups. Congratulations to you all.
I can't write like some of you, but here is my little story.ops:
It all started more than a year ago. I wanted a new CD player. So after reading a lot of reviews, I went to a dealer. After 3 to 4 weeks my new gear finally arrived. After hearing it, i decided very quickly that nice gear should have a decent rack. For Christmas I got a 3D Blu-Ray player from the greatest man in the world.
When I am busy, the tuner plays mostly at -77, -75. My system goes from -80 to above 0. The sound is warm and very detailed. When listening at -65 (tuner or CD), I can only say wow. At -55 I'm blown away. Room size approximately 7.45 * 4.35 meters.
The sound is so good that I've decided to buy a vinyl player.
Each day I have my wow effect. It's like a dream come true.
I hope you enjoy the pictures.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]21968[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]21967[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]21966[/ATTACH]
Have a good listening and a fine day.
Greetings,
Katrien
this's system has too bad Interconnect cable!Last edited by b.b; 06 June 2013, 12:38 Thursday.- Bottom
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If you mean the cables between the different components.
I know, but then we are talking about upgrades. These cables were delivered with each component. There isn't even a cable connected to the 3 D Blu-ray player.
I just wanted to show a few quick pictures of my humble system as a start. The reason that the cables are visible that way, is because I was preparing my rack to ad a turntable.
I was thinking about adding the Pro-Ject Carbon Esprit with acrylic platter and Ortofon 2m red cartridge and a heavy resonance free base Ground it deluxe.
But now I waiting for the Pro-ject xTension 9 with 9cc Evolution tonearm to come out. Probably at the same time I will add some good cables.
But first thinks first. It took me more than 4 years to have the money.
And my project is far from finished.Katrien
B&W 683,
HK980 TU, HK980 HD, HK980 HK, HK 3D BLU-RAY player BDT30.
Wishlist:
Pro-ject xTension 9 with 9cc Evolution tonearm
Ortofon 2m Silver (If there isn't any cartridge delivered with the turntable)
QED Reference Audio analog interconnect (For tuner, CD player and Blu-ray player)- Bottom
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If you mean the cables between the different components.
I know, but then we are talking about upgrades. These cables were delivered with each component. There isn't even a cable connected to the 3 D Blu-ray player.
I just wanted to show a few quick pictures of my humble system as a start. The reason that the cables are visible that way, is because I was preparing my rack to ad a turntable.
I was thinking about adding the Pro-Ject Carbon Esprit with acrylic platter and Ortofon 2m red cartridge and a heavy resonance free base Ground it deluxe.
But now I waiting for the Pro-ject xTension 9 with 9cc Evolution tonearm to come out. Probably at the same time I will add some good cables.
But first thinks first. It took me more than 4 years to have the money.
And my project is far from finished.
you don't worry about it, many of us need to save up many years for we can afford this kind of toys too so you are not alone in this trips! enjoy your new toys that is the funny things of this hobby. BTW the expensive cables not every one can hear any improvement with them so the cheap ones could work too!Leo,
Saludos
My HT: B&W 804D fronts, HTM4D center, 805D rears, Classe CA-2300 Main amp, Preamp Stereo CLASSE CP800, Preamp Multi Marantz AV8801, Parasound A31 center and Surround Amp, Source Oppo BDP-95 screen Samsung 55" UE55d8000 SVS SB12-NSD
Stereo: B&W 804S fronts, Pre: Denon AVR-2809 Amp: Rotel 1582, Source Marantz CD5004.- Bottom
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First, congratulations, you have a great system. I have a Pro-Ject (RPM-5) turntable, and am very pleased with it, thoroughly recommended. Saving, and tweaking: the patience is worth the results :T- Mike
Main System:
B&W 802D, HTM2D, SCMS
Classé SSP-800, CA-2200, CA-5100- Bottom
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My personal advice is to buy “quality” cables not “expensive” cables. The stuff that comes in the box is really not very good. You don’t have to spend thousands or hundreds, but I do think that if you spend a few dollars you can get a well made cable that will not fall apart and will last a long time and you can be sure is transferring the electricity correctly. However, if you are enjoying the sound right now and the cables are functioning ok – I wouldn’t bother changing a thing.- Bottom
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@ leo2498 I certainly will. Beautiful setup
@ mjb Thank you. These words mean a lot to me. BTW really nice setup.
@BVLDARI You also have a nice setup
As a newcomer I wonder if I may post some unboxing pictures here of my turntable the day I get one?
I did some research and I have made my mind up about those interconnects.
Therefore I made a wish list in my signature.Katrien
B&W 683,
HK980 TU, HK980 HD, HK980 HK, HK 3D BLU-RAY player BDT30.
Wishlist:
Pro-ject xTension 9 with 9cc Evolution tonearm
Ortofon 2m Silver (If there isn't any cartridge delivered with the turntable)
QED Reference Audio analog interconnect (For tuner, CD player and Blu-ray player)- Bottom
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If you mean the cables between the different components.
I know, but then we are talking about upgrades. These cables were delivered with each component. There isn't even a cable connected to the 3 D Blu-ray player.
I just wanted to show a few quick pictures of my humble system as a start. The reason that the cables are visible that way, is because I was preparing my rack to ad a turntable.
I was thinking about adding the Pro-Ject Carbon Esprit with acrylic platter and Ortofon 2m red cartridge and a heavy resonance free base Ground it deluxe.
But now I waiting for the Pro-ject xTension 9 with 9cc Evolution tonearm to come out. Probably at the same time I will add some good cables.
But first thinks first. It took me more than 4 years to have the money.
And my project is far from finished.
Your far far away friend- Bottom
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Stereo: Revel F208, Parasound JC2, JC1's, Oppo HA-1, VPI, Dynavector, Moon
HT: B&W 802D2, 805S, HTM4, Marantz, OPPO BDP95, Velodyne DD-12's
HP / secondary system: Woo Audio W2, Carver Sunfire, Kef LS50, Denon, and too many headphones to list- Bottom
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@ Pio That's very beautiful.Katrien
B&W 683,
HK980 TU, HK980 HD, HK980 HK, HK 3D BLU-RAY player BDT30.
Wishlist:
Pro-ject xTension 9 with 9cc Evolution tonearm
Ortofon 2m Silver (If there isn't any cartridge delivered with the turntable)
QED Reference Audio analog interconnect (For tuner, CD player and Blu-ray player)- Bottom
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Stereo: Revel F208, Parasound JC2, JC1's, Oppo HA-1, VPI, Dynavector, Moon
HT: B&W 802D2, 805S, HTM4, Marantz, OPPO BDP95, Velodyne DD-12's
HP / secondary system: Woo Audio W2, Carver Sunfire, Kef LS50, Denon, and too many headphones to list- Bottom
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OK, here's small update of my humble setup. I've added 2x SVS SB13Ultra. All speakers are crossovered at 80Hz. Well sound improved a lot in lower end. I's way more detailed and power, authority... well more than I expected. And I must say they blended with B&W's very well.
Now my question is - would DB1 outperform Dual SB13U form SVS ? ;-)AudioSource/DisplayCabling/PowerAV: Onkyo TX-NR818 + BT
F: 683 (Bi-amp)
C: Boston VR12
S: 685
Sub: 2x SVS SB13-Ultra12TB Media server (XBMC Database)
Intel NUC i3 XBMC Media clients
PS3 Slim SSD
xBox 360 Slim
D-Link WiDi
Samsung 51" PS51E6500
Optoma HD33
Gigabit Cisco SLM SwitchesHDMI - all 1.4a 1m to 15m long
Fornt LFQ: 4mm OFC solid core + thin fibres
Front HFQ, Center: Belden Audio 4mm OFC - med fibres
Rear: 2,5mm OFC (15m)
CyberPower UPS (Sine wave)- Bottom
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Looking very nice. I don't think the DB1 will outperform the dual SB13U's. You will probably get smoother bass if you are able to optimise your subwoofer positions. Plus a single DB1 with its dual firing drivers will not fit into either of your current sub positions without one of the drivers firing into a surface which is definitely a no no. IF the SB13U's will go as low as the DB1 is another question but we might only be talking a few Hz extra extension and you may gain that from actually using the 2 subs and optimise their extension and response through placement.- Bottom
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Looking very nice. I don't think the DB1 will outperform the dual SB13U's. You will probably get smoother bass if you are able to optimise your subwoofer positions. Plus a single DB1 with its dual firing drivers will not fit into either of your current sub positions without one of the drivers firing into a surface which is definitely a no no. IF the SB13U's will go as low as the DB1 is another question but we might only be talking a few Hz extra extension and you may gain that from actually using the 2 subs and optimise their extension and response through placement.
Now to the point - highest mode is @42,7Hz and EQ can touch only those fq's: 31, 35, 40, 46, 50, 56, 63, 70, 80, 90, 100, 112, or 125Hz with +3dB to -12dB. Now there are drops just before and after this 42,7Hz peak so any attempt to flat it down effects in 3-4dB but at the same time lowers surrounding drops about 2-3 times more (6 to 10dB).
As DB1 has ability to EQ more precisely it could fix my room issues. Other thing You mentioned is positioning of DB1 with it's opposite speaker construction. There is to place for it at the front and at the back I would need a long cable or wireless adapter and I don't believe in those.
Someone could say trapping could help but with those issues it would require a lot of traps... more than WAF can take...AudioSource/DisplayCabling/PowerAV: Onkyo TX-NR818 + BT
F: 683 (Bi-amp)
C: Boston VR12
S: 685
Sub: 2x SVS SB13-Ultra12TB Media server (XBMC Database)
Intel NUC i3 XBMC Media clients
PS3 Slim SSD
xBox 360 Slim
D-Link WiDi
Samsung 51" PS51E6500
Optoma HD33
Gigabit Cisco SLM SwitchesHDMI - all 1.4a 1m to 15m long
Fornt LFQ: 4mm OFC solid core + thin fibres
Front HFQ, Center: Belden Audio 4mm OFC - med fibres
Rear: 2,5mm OFC (15m)
CyberPower UPS (Sine wave)- Bottom
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Looking very nice. I don't think the DB1 will outperform the dual SB13U's. You will probably get smoother bass if you are able to optimise your subwoofer positions. Plus a single DB1 with its dual firing drivers will not fit into either of your current sub positions without one of the drivers firing into a surface which is definitely a no no. IF the SB13U's will go as low as the DB1 is another question but we might only be talking a few Hz extra extension and you may gain that from actually using the 2 subs and optimise their extension and response through placement.- Bottom
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The DB1, in my opinion, is the optimum subwoofer for obvious reasons! However if it's worth the cost could be subject to discussions...and always consider the fact that two subwoofers provide a better overall room response. So two or four DB1 would be "state of the art"!Greetz from Monnem (Mannheim)
Frank- Bottom
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The DB1, in my opinion, is the optimum subwoofer for obvious reasons! However if it's worth the cost could be subject to discussions...and always consider the fact that two subwoofers provide a better overall room response. So two or four DB1 would be "state of the art"!
I am sorry for the dubm question, but what are the "obvious reasons". I am passively looking for a sub and trying to get as much info as possible.- Bottom
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No prob: It is a closed box design, as every good speaker should (or an open baffle scheme but that's another story). It has 12 inch drivers installed --- drivers should not be much bigger or they're becoming too "cumbersome". It's better to increase their overall number (a few smaller subs are better than a single big one). The DB1 design doubles these drivers to increase their overall size and eleminate vibrations (which works perfectly, you have to experience bass that way). It has a fair amount of power (1000watts class-D) and goes comperatively low (17Hz tuning). It represents the compromise between going brutaly low and neglecting these "ultradeep 5Hz" moments you only find very, very occasionally (in relevant timespans to "realize" them as an impression). If you really want to go down that 5Hz road you need to put a lot of effort in your room and hardware (10,000 + watts in a normal basement size, dedicated room to place all that hardware etc). It features a good DSP control of the sub (5 editable presets, triggercontrolled, good to handle interface) and a basic roomresponse managing software which of course you can't compare to the more sophisticated ones (DIRAC, antimode or audissey MultEQ XT32) but in most cases it is able to handle these 2 or 3 disturbing room modes (of course there are many more below 200Hz but won't get to ones recognition the same way, which is sufficient for films, Music is another topic). Not so important is the fact that it has sleak looks but that adds to it's overall performance....
The downside of this design is the price: To equal one of those "BR Sub Rumblers" you sometimes need two of'm to receive the same sheer volume, if that's all you look after....Greetz from Monnem (Mannheim)
Frank- Bottom
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Frank, thanks. A lot of good info. You seem to know a lot about subs, so I have a couple of follow up questioons:
1. Theoretically what's the best way to install a dual opposed subwoofer?
2. Do you have any experience with Rel Gibraltar subs (and if yes what's your opinion).
Cheers.- Bottom
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Theoretically what's the best way to install a dual opposed subwoofer
Not easy to answer that: Overhere in Europe the tipical american home is known to be a perfect bass trap which is not a bad thing per se!
....If..., yeah if you're able to put in enough power to drive that condition (eleminating lots of the incoming energy since most of the inner walls act as a passive resonator). This is the reason why american subs are very popular among european enthusiasts (who understand nothing about sobwoofers....): The typical american home needs more energy in terms of bass...it can handle more bass...it can create a smoother bass reaction which is more pleasant to the listener...which results in big strong ported design subs, designed to move lots of air... . In Europe, on the other hand, rooms are smaller and typically made of concrete or stone, prominent room modes (modal waves) are very common. So the rule overhere is: Stay away from boundaries, don't place your sub near walls, except you have one of this 25lbs lifestyle suckersub, which is the case as with most of the average folks.....and needs that extra gain from near wall or corner placement to rumble up that pathetic 150 watts from it's 8 inch driver....wich results in poor wobbling bass....
How to place it Frank has been the question...: As with any other conventional sub it acts as a spherical emitter and should not be placed directly to a boundarie and not in the exact middle of the room one quarter or one third of a diameter in every direction is a good advice. Place it, listen to it and write down what you like and what you don't. Test up to 5 different locations refering to the above schedule. The more subs (2,3 or 4) the better the overall response and the potential wide of the listening area will be.....Greetz from Monnem (Mannheim)
Frank- Bottom
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What's the idea of a dual opposed firing subwoofers? put it along a wall? The idea behind is to increase the size of the surface of the driver without getting them to big as a single item (cumbersome) and eleminate vibrations so that the acoustic wave hits the listener first and then shakes the wall instead of shaking the ground first via enclosement vibrations travelling through the ground. The opposite of a down firing subwoofer which uses ground travelling forces to create a sensation which is impressive with movies on the first look..... The disadvantage of this design (dual opposed): you need lots of energy (multiple subs in most rooms) which results in an increased budget. But you have to experience the feeling of "airborne" bass accompaigned with so much energy that it shakes the room after it has travelled through the room hitting the listener"freeair" first.
With music, it's one of the best subwoofer concepts (aside from dipol/ripol - "open baffle" designs with their extremely directional bass which could be even more suitable depending on your room/listening situation...or not....!
Don't know if I'd been able to describe the problems in a comprehensive manner (since I'm not a native speaker)Greetz from Monnem (Mannheim)
Frank- Bottom
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Hi Everyone,
I am a newbie to this site and to an extent to home audio as well. This is the first time I have been able to spend on a decent system as I have always lived in apartments.
I have always used B&W / Rotel combination and will probably stick with them (until I can afford one of these Classe amps and some Diamonds).
I am not new to audio though, I used to DJ and produce so have played on a lot of powerful systems (Turbosound, Funktion-one, etc) and due to home sounds restrictions it was my car that filled with nice audio (Morel, Diamond, DLS).
I cant wait to get started on the home project as my new room should work very well, solid floors 100+ year old house with very thick walls. This is where I am currently:
B&W CM9's (black gloss ex demo)
Rotel RB-1572 (used 7 months old, arrives tomorrow hence why not pictured)
Sony 55" on a Spectral TV Stand
For source I am going to use my old Studio PC for now (Delta 1010 sound card).
I am not in any rush to go 5.1, most of my friends I have listened to have been underwhelming to say the least, unless your room is big enough / suitable, is there any point???
I listen to mostly audio but do watch a lot of movies too mostly downloads though..
I would appreciate your feedback on the following:
RCA / Phono & Speaker cable (thinking QED).
I have some that will do for now but would like some that matches the rest of the kit.
The next upgrade would be a sub, I am thinking the ASW10CM to match - good choice?
Thank you in advance for any replies
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lukelaconi, welcome to the forums! You have a great looking setup there for sure. As far as cables are concerned, I'm personally not a believer in expensive boutique products, but you should certainly look for a level of quality to match your electronics. Depending on your location, CatCables (or other forum sponsor) might be interesting for you. Happy listening :-)- Mike
Main System:
B&W 802D, HTM2D, SCMS
Classé SSP-800, CA-2200, CA-5100- Bottom
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"novice"
Hi, I'm here for the second time and I also share my hifi
B&W 803S
B&W HTM2S
B&W 610XP
Onkyo TXNR905
Technics SLPS670A
Technics SJMD100
Technics SHGE90
Technics RSTR474
Sony KDL46X3000
Audioquest RCA Colorado
Audoquest Redwood
Audioquest SUB3
Audioquest NRG Wel signature
Audioquest Optilink5
Audioquest HDMI3
I'm sorry but I can not upload photos...ops:
YESSSSSS - Only for enlargement must click on the picture - Thank you PewterTA:WLast edited by Petr Brno; 25 October 2013, 05:11 Friday.- Bottom
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Looks great guys!!!!! Love the photos keep them coming!!!
Petr, you need to post the photos on a photo sharing site and then link the photos to the forum...best way to do it. I just use facebook for my photos, just open the photo in facebook and right click on it and select copy photo link and then paste it there to use it.Digital Audio makes me Happy.
-Dan- Bottom
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AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!! I love the speakers (obviously)! Love the piano blacks!!!! Now I just wish I could move to your level with the Classe gear. I'm thinking CP-800 and CA-M600s and I'll just continue with my Rotel amp for the center & rears..... Maybe one day.
Since you keep your 802Dis so close to the rear wall have you considered sound absorption panels behind them!?!? I'm getting ready to build my own panels to put behind mine and at the first reflection points.... and a couple other places depending on how many I feel like making.Digital Audio makes me Happy.
-Dan- Bottom
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I'd love to come over and fully calibrate that system.- Bottom
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