DIY Boat Speakers!

[juliovideo]

Hi ,I'm a newbie......................and I pulled on an adventure to built the Sonus Faber Diy . 8O

http://www.hifi-notes.com/sonusfaberamatifabrikage-nl.htm

http://www.sonusfaber.com/eng/index.html

Here are some DIY photos of my creation at my apartment in Florida. :T


materials.

Oak wood
MDF



48" H x 12"-1/4 W (at front) x 21" D .


Images not available



I have not finished the structure, I think for next week to start putting the side panels.

I thought to put these speakers .........................

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=290-446

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=290-400

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=290-406

I did something about the crossover using this website below...

http://www.diyaudioandvideo.com/Calculator/APCXOver/

And with my little knowledge that i have about this, It led to this...


3200 Hertz / 400 Hertz

8 Ohm Tweeter / 8 Ohm Mid / two of 8 Ohm Woofer

Image not available



Recommendations, comments and suggestions.



Thanks Guys =]




---------------------------

[Johnloudb]

Hi ,I'm a newbie......................and I pulled on an adventure to built the Sonus Faber Diy . 8O

It's obvious you're a newbie from the shotty cabinet work ..... NOT!!!
Very nice work. :T However as I understand it crossover calculators will give a very rough crossover design. You really need to take some measurements of the individual drivers in the cabinet, using some speaker design software and a microphone.

I have yet to do this, but I've seen how other members on this site design high quality speakers.

Also the driver you chose for the tweeter is a compression driver, I think, and is to be used with a horn.

[ThomasW]

Hi Jose,

Cabinetry is impressive. Choice of drivers is bizarre and use of a generic crossover calculator is disappointing and problematic.

Drivers are chosen after evaluating their individual performance characteristics. Crossovers are designed by measuring the impedance and frequency response characteristics of the drivers mounted in the baffle where the drivers will be used. Those measurements are then imported into a crossover modeling program.

[juliovideo]

It's obvious you're a newbie from the shotty cabinet work ..... NOT!!!
Very nice work. :T However as I understand it crossover calculators will give a very rough crossover design. You really need to take some measurements of the individual drivers in the cabinet, using some speaker design software and a microphone.

I have yet to do this, but I've seen how other members on this site design high quality speakers.

Also the driver you chose for the tweeter is a compression driver, I think, and is to be used with a horn.

Thank you Johnloudb :T






------------------------

[juliovideo]

Hi Jose,

Cabinetry is impressive. Choice of drivers is bizarre and use of a generic crossover calculator is disappointing and problematic.

Drivers are chosen after evaluating their individual performance characteristics. Crossovers are designed by measuring the impedance and frequency response characteristics of the drivers mounted in the baffle where the drivers will be used. Those measurements are then imported into a crossover modeling program.

thanks ............. in fact these are the originals and too expensive.

http://www.soton.ac.uk/~apm3/diyaudio/Amaticlones.html

Tweeter: Scan-Speak D2905-9900 or 990000 Revelator

Midrange: Scan-Speak 18W8545 carbon/paper (with custom dustcap)

Woofers: Scan-Speak 21W8555-01 carbon/paper

http://www.madisound.com/catalog/index.php?manufacturers_id=148

-----------------

[Johnloudb]

Your box looks like it might accommodate Jed's Dynamic 4T or Dynamic 2T. Jed's been an awesome contributor to this forum and builds excellent loudspeakers. I build his very good Lineup R44 design in the Mission Accomplished section of the forum. Very happy with it.

He sells kits (driver and crossovers) ... see the "Clearwave Loudspeaker Design" advertisement above. And they're very reasonably priced for what you get. So, you might contact him, and see if it would work with your box.

I'm not trying to discourage you from you own design, but when just starting out it's often best to start with a kit. Then when you learn more on how to design speakers/crossovers and have the software needed you can try a speaker from scratch.

[Hdale85]

Yeah a lot of the software can cost half as much as the speakers you are building And then there is the equipment that goes with it. Good measurement microphone is 50 bucks and the to get it calibrated is another 50. Mic pre is going to be 100-200 bucks (may be able to find cheaper) so yes this all adds up to a good bit but it's what's required to make a good design.

Those drivers in your first post don't look like they'd make anything to enjoyable Could be wrong but just my honest opinion.

[ThomasW]

thanks ............. in fact these are the originals and too expensive.

No one is suggesting buying the drivers used in the SF. But the question remains, why chose such pedestrian drivers as the Eminence when there are better drivers available?

As was previously stated the Eminence compression driver can't be used without a horn.

All in all it appears you better find guidance from someone knowledgeable regarding speaker design rather than waste money guessing about what drivers should be used.

[juliovideo]

No one is suggesting buying the drivers used in the SF. But the question remains, why chose such pedestrian drivers as the Eminence when there are better drivers available?

As was previously stated the Eminence compression driver can't be used without a horn.

All in all it appears you better find guidance from someone knowledgeable regarding speaker design rather than waste money guessing about what drivers should be used.

I do not know, I think that the idea in use speakers Pro for Hi-Fi is rejected, and you can find things there ......sweet and good to a unless price.









---------------------

[juliovideo]

Your box looks like it might accommodate Jed's Dynamic 4T or Dynamic 2T. Jed's been an awesome contributor to this forum and builds excellent loudspeakers. I build his very good Lineup R44 design in the Mission Accomplished section of the forum. Very happy with it.

He sells kits (driver and crossovers) ... see the "Clearwave Loudspeaker Design" advertisement above. And they're very reasonably priced for what you get. So, you might contact him, and see if it would work with your box.

I'm not trying to discourage you from you own design, but when just starting out it's often best to start with a kit. Then when you learn more on how to design speakers/crossovers and have the software needed you can try a speaker from scratch.

Thanks for the recommendation and see interesting things :T

I am a newbie in DIY audio but I have some DIY for ReefTank , also in my house my wife and daughters speak English very well but the my is bad, I have to use an online translator mostly.


translator. http://www.google.com/language_tools




================================================== ======


My DIY Record Cleaning Machine ......in spanish

http://www.dvdclasico.cl/iforum/viewtopic.php?t=12700

Parts .............

http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009022823225087&item=5-1257&catname=

http://gamainc.com/cgi-bin/products.cgi?item=129-PR-MTD

http://gamainc.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?q=1.4.4

Turntable $ 5.00 dollar in ebay
wood $ 4.00 dollar
Motor DC $ 12.95 dollar
Switch Polarity Reverse DC $ 9.95 dollar
SwitchDC on-off $ 4.95 dollar
Switch AC on-off $ 4.95 dollar

total $ 41.80 dollar




================================================== =====

My DIY ReefTank in English

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1229202

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1342595

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1342647

------------------------


My DIY in Spanish

http://www.all-reefs.com/inicio/showthread.php?t=3956

http://www.all-reefs.com/inicio/showthread.php?t=4555

http://www.all-reefs.com/inicio/showthread.php?t=4372

http://www.all-reefs.com/inicio/showthread.php?t=4133

http://www.all-reefs.com/inicio/showthread.php?t=3962

http://www.all-reefs.com/inicio/showthread.php?t=2949

-----------------------------------------------------




My reeftank winner september 2008

http://www.all-reefs.com/inicio/showthread.php?t=4896

I was given an Award for the best theme of the 2008 in All-Reefs

thread 620 Answers,visits 20,754

http://www.all-reefs.com/inicio/showthread.php?t=4928

:W


-------------------------

[Johnloudb]

Some Ideas

Jose, the coral reef you built is very beautiful. You definitely have some serious skills. Certainly, there's nothing stopping you from designing and building your own speaker. But, you'll need to learn some more about speaker measurements and crossover design to build a successful speaker. And you'll need to get some speaker design software. Speaker Workshop design software is free but I've never used it.

Pro drivers are usually designed for high sensitivity and high SPL, and not so much for really low distortion. Here are some drivers I'd suggest for a three way speaker and aren't too much more than the ones you chose. The Tweeter an Mids need to be more sensitive than the woofers so you can tailor the response. I'm not sure that the Aurum Cantus is sensitive enough at 90dB for a midrange. Though the RS52 should be and it's a very well liked driver. And the 8" woofers would be wired in parallel.

Vifa XT25TG30-04 1" Dual Concentric Dome Tweeter

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=264-555

Dayton RS52AN-8 2" Dome Midrange

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=285-020&FTR=RS52&CFID=10523900&CFTOKEN=16124345

Aurum Cantus AC-130MKII 5-1/4" Carbon Fiber/Kevlar Woofer

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=296-404&ctab=2#Tabs

2 woofers:
Usher 8137A 8" Kevlar/Carbon Fiber Woofer

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=296-616

These are just my suggestions, for low distortion drivers that might work well together. There's a lot of possibilities.

[lunchmoney]

Beautiful cabinets!

Now PLEASE do yourself a favor and listen to what these guys are telling you...

You really need to use an existing configuration of drivers and crossover that have been designed by an experienced builder... find an existing design out there that uses the same internal volume and baffle width as your cabinets... hopefully there's something out there that will fit.

Cabinets are the easy part... getting the drivers and crossover right are infinitely trickier...success by blindly guessing at drivers and a crossover design is equivalent to winning the lottery.

Do it right. Don't waste those beautiful cabinets!

[juliovideo]

Beautiful cabinets!

Now PLEASE do yourself a favor and listen to what these guys are telling you...

You really need to use an existing configuration of drivers and crossover that have been designed by an experienced builder... find an existing design out there that uses the same internal volume and baffle width as your cabinets... hopefully there's something out there that will fit.

Cabinets are the easy part... getting the drivers and crossover right are infinitely trickier...success by blindly guessing at drivers and a crossover design is equivalent to winning the lottery.

Do it right. Don't waste those beautiful cabinets!

Inteligent analogy and excellent advice............................thanks




--------------------

[juliovideo]

Yeah a lot of the software can cost half as much as the speakers you are building And then there is the equipment that goes with it. Good measurement microphone is 50 bucks and the to get it calibrated is another 50. Mic pre is going to be 100-200 bucks (may be able to find cheaper) so yes this all adds up to a good bit but it's what's required to make a good design.

Those drivers in your first post don't look like they'd make anything to enjoyable Could be wrong but just my honest opinion.

Thanks :T





-------------

[juliovideo]

Jose, the coral reef you built is very beautiful. You definitely have some serious skills. Certainly, there's nothing stopping you from designing and building your own speaker. But, you'll need to learn some more about speaker measurements and crossover design to build a successful speaker. And you'll need to get some speaker design software. Speaker Workshop design software is free but I've never used it.

Pro drivers are usually designed for high sensitivity and high SPL, and not so much for really low distortion. Here are some drivers I'd suggest for a three way speaker and aren't too much more than the ones you chose. The Tweeter an Mids need to be more sensitive than the woofers so you can tailor the response. I'm not sure that the Aurum Cantus is sensitive enough at 90dB for a midrange. Though the RS52 should be and it's a very well liked driver. And the 8" woofers would be wired in parallel.

Vifa XT25TG30-04 1" Dual Concentric Dome Tweeter

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=264-555

Dayton RS52AN-8 2" Dome Midrange

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=285-020&FTR=RS52&CFID=10523900&CFTOKEN=16124345

Aurum Cantus AC-130MKII 5-1/4" Carbon Fiber/Kevlar Woofer

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=296-404&ctab=2#Tabs

2 woofers:
Usher 8137A 8" Kevlar/Carbon Fiber Woofer

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=296-616

These are just my suggestions, for low distortion drivers that might work well together. There's a lot of possibilities.

Thanks Johnloudb .................


.............. Why put a tweeter 4 ohms ? , and how to solve the total impedance ?


Thanks for advance


-------------------

[ThomasW]

Unless you want to go through learning to scratch build a system, (something not all that easy) I recommend you find a design from out Missions Accomplished section or Zaph Audio that fits your baffle and box. That way you'll have a proven design that works.

FWIW, The Dayton RS TMWW and Zaph's ZDT3.5 would probably work in your box...

Why put a tweeter 4 ohms ? , and how to solve the total impedance ?

The impedance of the drivers don't need to be the same...

For all intents and purposes the impedance of the woofer section is the 'nominal' impedance of the entire loudspeaker.

[juliovideo]

Unless you want to go through learning to scratch build a system, (something not all that easy) I recommend you find a design from out Missions Accomplished section or Zaph Audio that fits your baffle and box. That way you'll have a proven design that works.

FWIW, The Dayton RS TMWW and Zaph's ZDT3.5 would probably work in your box...

The impedance of the drivers don't need to be the same...

For all intents and purposes the impedance of the woofer section is the 'nominal' impedance of the entire loudspeaker.

Thanks interesting; I saw a thread here in this forum, where you demonstrate to all his knowledge, impressed me ! :T

Can you do me a favor and set up 3 or 4 elections between tweeters, Midrange and woofer....I will be grateful .................The speakers no more than $ 120.00 dollar each .


thanks.





----------------------

[Hdale85]

Are you talking total cost of each tower being 120? Or each driver can be up to 120?

I'm not sure your dimensions but you should really look into see if these will fit the cabinets as they are fantastic I own a pair of these.

http://clearwaveloudspeaker.googlepages.com/home I have the 4T's at the top and if your cabinet is close it might work.

[juliovideo]

Are you talking total cost of each tower being 120? Or each driver can be up to 120?

I'm not sure your dimensions but you should really look into see if these will fit the cabinets as they are fantastic I own a pair of these.

http://clearwaveloudspeaker.googlepages.com/home I have the 4T's at the top and if your cabinet is close it might work.

Each driver can have up to between $ 0.00 and $ 120.00 dollar .


The dimensions of my cabinet are 48" H x 12"-1/4 W (at front) x 21" D .






------------------------

[Hdale85]

Hmm, yeah then probably something based around the PE cabinets or something. They are like 10" wide. The 4T's are 8" wide so pretty big difference.

[ThomasW]

Can you do me a favor and set up 3 or 4 elections between tweeters, Midrange and woofer....I will be grateful .................The speakers no more than $ 120.00 dollar each

Creating a design from scratch isn't a trivial undertaking. The investment in testing hardware and modeling software alone is several hundred dollars. Then one needs to learn how to use it, which is reasonably difficult and complicated.

So my recommendation remains, use an existing proven design.

[Johnloudb]

Thanks Johnloudb .................


.............. Why put a tweeter 4 ohms ? , and how to solve the total impedance ?


Thanks for advance


-------------------

Well, I was looking for a driver with decent sensitivity and a nice flat response. It has a low Fs of 500Hz which will help in crossing over to the mid of your choice with low distortion. Vifa makes real nice drivers in general, and I think this on is well liked.

A 4 ohm load shouldn't be a problem. Any most amplifiers you'd use with this speaker could drive it.

You might also consider a ribbon tweeter, like the one used in Jim's Statements (see "Mission Accomplished" section) . But they have to be crossed over at a higher frequency.

Thomas, is right about that. There is just a ton of stuff to learn.

You should start off with box modeling software pick the woofers, and I wouldn't buy any expensive drivers before learning the software your going to use and testing a few cheap drivers on a test baffle. Just to make sure you've got the measurement and design details worked out.

[Undefinition]

here. This project will fit your cabinet and has lots of happy owners

http://www.parts-express.com/projectshowcase/indexn.cfm?project=Veritas

Or, this, which is a close relative, and again, has a lot of satisfied customers.

http://www.speakerbuilder.net/web_files/Projects/Lyra/lyramain.htm

and as to why everyone insists on building a proven design...

http://undefinition.googlepages.com/diy-faqs-provendesigns

[juliovideo]

here. This project will fit your cabinet and has lots of happy owners

http://www.parts-express.com/projectshowcase/indexn.cfm?project=Veritas

Or, this, which is a close relative, and again, has a lot of satisfied customers.
http://www.speakerbuilder.net/web_fi...a/lyramain.htm

Thanks

as to why everyone insists on building a proven design...
http://undefinition.googlepages.com/...-provendesigns

Thanks, and now I understand your help from the beginning by all,and I appreciate this. :T

I will consider all views and recommendations, I think in the end I stay with an existing proven design.................. before I jump into the abyss lol


sincerely Julio V






-----------------

[juliovideo]

A 4 ohm load shouldn't be a problem. Any most amplifiers you'd use with this speaker could drive it.

I see some patterns that do not equal the total impedance in the woofers and it worries me
this, I maybe wrong but ...............



===============================


"Damping factor"

We could set the damping factor of an amplifier as its ability to control the movement of the coil of a loudspeaker. A high damping factor is desirable to obtain a dry sound at low frequencies, which would play "loose" and "loose."

An ideal amplifier has an infinitely high damping factor. In practice, here on planet earth at least, the amplifiers exhibit some output impedance, which leads to typical damping factors between 300 and 600 for an 8 ohm load.

The damping factor is calculated as the ratio of the impedance (designated with the letter Z) load and output impedance:

For example, an output impedance of 0.02 ohm to 8 ohm load
results in a buffer 400. As the factor is
directly proportional to the load impedance, when the lower
impedance, the worse will be the damping factor. In this example the
buffer would be 200 for 4 ohm, 2 ohm to 100, and following the
Similarly, 16 to 800 ohm.

So far so good. Normally we recommend a factor of
buffer above 50, with a minimum of 25. As we have commented
before, this is particularly important for low frequencies.

Things are complicated when we add a certain length of cable. The
impedance of the cable is directly proportional to its length. E
inversely proportional to its section, that is, the more coarse
lower its impedance.


from :

English http://translate.google.com/translat...hl=en&ie=UTF-8

Spanish http://www.doctorproaudio.com/doctor/temas/cable.htm







--------------------------------------------

[ThomasW]

I see some patterns that do not equal the total impedance and it worries me
this, I maybe wrong but ...............

The impedance of the tweeter is fundamentally irrevelevent to the load the amp 'sees'.

The impedance of the tweeter and the woofer don't need to be the same.

The impedance of the woofer determines the impedance of the system

[juliovideo]

The impedance of the tweeter is fundamentally irrevelevent to the load the amp 'sees'.

The impedance of the tweeter and the woofer don't need to be the same.

The impedance of the woofer determines the impedance of the system

Thommas..........Then, when will connect two woofer in parallel of 8 ohms each,is equal to 4 ohms...........For the best performance between amplifier and speakers,in the woofer crossover should match the impedance total to 8 ohms ?





------------------

[GMorris]

The low-distortion Dayton RS TMWW and ZDT3.5 designs that Thomas mentioned earlier can be found here:

RS TMWW

https://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22393

ZDT3.5

http://www.zaphaudio.com/ZDT3.5.html

[Mike B]

DIY boat speakers

Image not available

Man, did that thread title ever get me confused -

[Johnloudb]

I see some patterns that do not equal the total impedance in the woofers and it worries me
this, I maybe wrong but ...............



===============================


"Damping factor"

We could set the damping factor of an amplifier as its ability to control the movement of the coil of a loudspeaker. A high damping factor is desirable to obtain a dry sound at low frequencies, which would play "loose" and "loose."

An ideal amplifier has an infinitely high damping factor. In practice, here on planet earth at least, the amplifiers exhibit some output impedance, which leads to typical damping factors between 300 and 600 for an 8 ohm load.

The damping factor is calculated as the ratio of the impedance (designated with the letter Z) load and output impedance:

For example, an output impedance of 0.02 ohm to 8 ohm load
results in a buffer 400. As the factor is
directly proportional to the load impedance, when the lower
impedance, the worse will be the damping factor. In this example the
buffer would be 200 for 4 ohm, 2 ohm to 100, and following the
Similarly, 16 to 800 ohm.

So far so good. Normally we recommend a factor of
buffer above 50, with a minimum of 25. As we have commented
before, this is particularly important for low frequencies.

Things are complicated when we add a certain length of cable. The
impedance of the cable is directly proportional to its length. E
inversely proportional to its section, that is, the more coarse
lower its impedance.


from :

English http://translate.google.com/translat...hl=en&ie=UTF-8

Spanish http://www.doctorproaudio.com/doctor/temas/cable.htm


--------------------------------------------

Most amps have a sufficiently high damping factor. I like amps with a fairly high damping factor 500+ into 8 ohms, to control the low frequencies. Some people don't care (i.e. tube amp lovers), but that's not a big design consideration for speakers, unless you like single ended tube designs.

You're looking for a specified frequency response (basically a flat response) for a given input voltage.

[vinceb]

12 1/4" wide? Sealed Statements , add a sub if you want more bass. Better yet add three small subs and move them around until you find bass nirvana.

[juliovideo]

Most amps have a sufficiently high damping factor. I like amps with a fairly high damping factor 500+ into 8 ohms, to control the low frequencies. Some people don't care (i.e. tube amp lovers), but that's not a big design consideration for speakers, unless you like single ended tube designs.

You're looking for a specified frequency response (basically a flat response) for a given input voltage.

Thanks John




-----------------

[juliovideo]

Man, did that thread title ever get me confused -

Wait till to finish it and you will see something different .................... a sailboat speaker !! :T


:amen:



-------------------------

[Dennis H]

Jose, you're getting a lot of good advice but it's probably hard to make sense of it all. Here's what you really need to know.

- The crossover is more important than the driver selection.
- It's really hard to design a good crossover without a lot of experience and some expensive hardware and software.
- You should pick an existing design complete with drivers and crossover.
- Baffle width affects the high frequency response so you should pick a design with width close to the boxes you are building. Otherwise you will need to modify the crossover.
- Box volume affects the low frequency response so you should pick a design with similar box volume. That said, it's not too hard to adjust for a different box volume and we can help you with that.

[Johnloudb]

Wait till to finish it and you will see something different .................... a sailboat speaker !! :T


:amen:

-------------------------

I look forward to seeing your completed sailboat speaker!! :T Whether you decide to go with an existing design or design your own, there are many very knowledgeable speaker designers on this forum who are happy to give advice and point you in the right direction.

If designing your own, definitely get some speaker design software since it's a great learning tool and you can test different ideas without it costing you much. The software simulations won't solve all your problems and you need to take driver measurements and listen to finalize a crossover design.

Definitely, take some measurements of some cheap drivers, to practice, before investing a lot in drivers. Like I should talk ... I've spent a boat load of money on drivers for a speaker design, which I hope to build soon. I'm hardly novice in audio electronics design but this will be my first speaker design. I think I know what I'm doing .... we will see. :B

[juliovideo]

I look forward to seeing your completed sailboat speaker!! :T Whether you decide to go with an existing design or design your own, there are many very knowledgeable speaker designers on this forum who are happy to give advice and point you in the right direction.

If designing your own, definitely get some speaker design software since it's a great learning tool and you can test different ideas without it costing you much. The software simulations won't solve all your problems and you need to take driver measurements and listen to finalize a crossover design.

Definitely, take some measurements of some cheap drivers, to practice, before investing a lot in drivers. Like I should talk ... I've spent a boat load of money on drivers for a speaker design, which I hope to build soon. I'm hardly novice in audio electronics design but this will be my first speaker design. I think I know what I'm doing .... we will see. :B

Good luck with your project ! ........................... for that reason I love DIY ( Do it yourself ) it's exciting .


:T




------------------------

[juliovideo]

Jose, you're getting a lot of good advice but it's probably hard to make sense of it all. Here's what you really need to know.

- The crossover is more important than the driver selection.
- It's really hard to design a good crossover without a lot of experience and some expensive hardware and software.
- You should pick an existing design complete with drivers and crossover.
- Baffle width affects the high frequency response so you should pick a design with width close to the boxes you are building. Otherwise you will need to modify the crossover.
- Box volume affects the low frequency response so you should pick a design with similar box volume. That said, it's not too hard to adjust for a different box volume and we can help you with that.

Thanks Dennis , interesting tips ................I do not understand what you are referring to this;Excuse my clumsy.

"Baffle width affects the high frequency response so you should pick a design with width close to the boxes you are building. Otherwise you will need to modify the crossover."


Greetings



--------------------

[Johnloudb]

Thanks Dennis , interesting tips ................I do not understand what you are referring to this;Excuse my clumsy.

"Baffle width affects the high frequency response so you should pick a design with width close to the boxes you are building. Otherwise you will need to modify the crossover."


Greetings



--------------------

The baffle is the front of the speaker where all the drivers are mounted. So if you chose a speaker design with a different width than the speaker enclosures you have, it could change the frequency response of that design. It's called baffle step.

[juliovideo]

The baffle is the front of the speaker where all the drivers are mounted. So if you chose a speaker design with a different width than the speaker enclosures you have, it could change the frequency response of that design. It's called baffle step.

Thanks John .................






---------------

[juliovideo]

One question , .........Active Crossovers are an alternative to Hi-Fi ?; I have not seen that mentioned here much........Why ?





Image not available







Thanks for advance.





------------------

[lunchmoney]

Active crossovers are an alternative to passive crossovers.

[ThomasW]

One question , .........Active Crossovers are an alternative to Hi-Fi ?; I have not seen that mentioned here much........Why ?

This forum contains dozens and dozens of posts about the DCX2496, and numerous references to the DriveRack. There are also many references to other active crossovers such as those from Marchand and the Behringer CX2300 and 3400.

[juliovideo]

This forum contains dozens and dozens of posts about the DCX2496, and numerous references to the DriveRack. There are also many references to other active crossovers such as those from Marchand and the Behringer CX2300 and 3400.

Thank you Thomas ! ,.............. I was watching the endless struggle to achieve the linearity of a response by a crossover. If set in a simple First Order and use the system with an equalizer..........

.....This produces the same result.?



Thanks




------------------

[juliovideo]

Active crossovers are an alternative to passive crossovers.

Thanks, I'm in the 9th inning 1 to 0, bases full,count 3 and 2........and 2 outs.

http://sound.westhost.com/biamp-vs-passive.htm

:T



-------------------------

[Johnloudb]

Interesting link. I haven't compared active versus passive crossovers myself, but passive crossovers I'm sure, present more of a challenge. Though, passives can be done very well. You also need to consider what type of speaker you want. A three way speaker with a 3 way active crossover would require 3 amplifier channels per side. Do they make 3 channel amps anymore?

:T Yep, they do here's one:

http://emotiva.com/xpa3.shtm

The Behringer DCX2496 I think would do a three way crossover and allow you to correct the frequency response. But, I've never used one, so I'm not sure on that.