New 'box' for my CD collection

[cochinada]

Well, I think my experience with OpenELEC is about to end.

I've installed it and was really quick but to my surprise Kodi was also automatically installed without me doing anything. So far so good but the problem is that I can't get access to the OS and this stupid thing doesn't recognize my internal 3TB HDD.

It did recognize the external USB disk My Passport when I connect it though.

So, the situation is that I can't even format the internal HDD because I don't have access to the OS. I went trough all the menus in Kodi but it is useless. Any ideas?

EDIT: After much investigation I finally formatted the disk via SSH and a couple of strange commands and copied the ripped CD's I have so far. I guess that with OpenELEC there is only the possibility to use Kodi as they are basically the same thing.

[knowledgebass]

What are the Logitech Packages?

This server supports hardware (including the Transporter) and software players known as squeezeboxes. There hasn't been a new hardware player in some years now, but Logitech continues to do some development and it's open source so the community around it has rallied to create other components such as squeezelite (squeeze 'lite') which can run headless in a system as small as a raspberry Pi.

In my opinion it has 3 or 4 features that should have taken it further than it has gone. Cross platform compatibility, whole home synchronization, large database support, FLAC support, hardware and software players controllable from any web browser on your network (and now phone interfaces). Ok that's four reasons. Did I mention it's open sourced? Oh and I believe it can be configured to handle classical music meta data differently from popular music (aka pop, rock, metal etc.)

Anyway, I've been running the server for years (nearly 10!), first to support a mixed operating system environment (Windows, Mac, and Linux). Now to support whole home playback which includes using my phone as a player in my garage.

In your case you would install the server packages, set it up with a web browser, and then use either a Kodi plugin (which is probably a wrapper for squeeze), or squeezelite. I did a search and it doesn't look like there is a Kodi plugin for the server component but there were a few reports by people using it. Control it from a laptop or phone or your remote or whatever device happens to be in your hand at the time.

Sorry, I've never actually run OpenElec so most of my advice is based on my experience running Linux. Configure SSH to allow X forwarding and you can run programs on the remote screen.

What are you using for tagging again? Most of them use MusicBrainz as the backend. I bought a program called Jaikoz.

[cochinada]

That sounds very complicated. I've been battling since early this morning trying to install Windows 7 and it keeps aborting at the "Expanding Windows Files" phase. I decided Yesterday that I don't like Kodi. It has some issues I couldn't get around and Linux is even worse.

The problem is that I cannot install Windows no matter what I do. I've used a DVD player, I used two different USB pen with also three different ISO's so far. I've tried all USB ports (2.0 and 3.0), even disconnected the internal 3.5" HDD and one of the memory banks, all to no avail. I'm getting quite angry and frustrated right now. There should be no incompatibilities between the HW and Windows.

Motherboard: ASRock Z97M Pro4
CPU: Intel Core i3 4130T 3.4GHz
Memory: G.Skill Sniper DDR3 2x4GB 1866MHz CAS9

[TEK]

Hmm, this could be several times - but I would guess it is indicating some kind of bios/hardware related issue.
A quick search show that also other have been having this issue. I sounds familiar - and I'm wondering if I might have experienced it myself.

I assume you have tried different downloads? A bad iso file might of course cause this - and if you copy the same bad file to different media that will not help.
(I see that you have used different iso's, so the source is not the problem).

That means that there is something going on with your computer that Windows don't get.
Your hardware is quite a bit newer than Windows 7 - so it's not unresonable to think that there are hardware that Windows 7 does not recognize.
From my point of view I really dont get why you want to insist on using a outdated opsys and don't just go for Windows 10 - but hey - that's your choice.
(Windows 10 is faster and better in almost any ways IMHO).

BTW - are you trying to install 32bit (x86) or 64 bit windows?
You should be using 64 bit these days - but as you are not a fan of new stuff I would guess that you are trying to install x86, or?
Sorry - that was bit rude ops: - just had to... oke:

I would try to change the disk mode from AHCI to IDE (in the bios - only a option if you are using AHCI is of course.
With Windows 7 I would also check that the bios is in legacy bios mode and not the new UEFI mode.
I would also try to remove one of the RAM modules. If that does not work, remove the other one and insert the first one. This will have effect if a RAM module has a problem.

[cochinada]

Hi TEK. Is not that I'm not a fan of new stuff; I simply won't use Windows 10 for the reasons I already explained.

Anyway, after 10 hours of pain and suffering I found the problem!!! It was a stupid SATA cable connecting to the OS HDD that apparently was not 'stable'. I've replaced it with another one and voilá... :dancenana:

P.S. I have Windows 7 Professional 64 bits.

[cochinada]

Two questions about JRiver:

1. Does it need a cue sheet or can I just have a folder with separated FLAC files all already tagged?
2. If I have a thumbnail/cover named 'folder.jpg' in each folder will JRiver take it automatically as the cover of the CD or do I have to have a special name?

[TEK]

Hi TEK. Is not that I'm not a fan of new stuff; I simply won't use Windows 10 for the reasons I already explained.

Anyway, after 10 hours of pain and suffering I found the problem!!! It was a stupid SATA cable connecting to the OS HDD that apparently was not 'stable'. I've replaced it with another one and voilá... :dancenana:

P.S. I have Windows 7 Professional 64 bits.

Happy that you figured it out (well done, a flimsy cable is not easy to identify).
From my experience, that kind of behaviour is hardware or bios related.

[cochinada]

I give up. I'm fed up with windows. Now I can't access my shared folders on my homegroup!!!

This is the message I get and the view from my desktop PC trying to access the folder on the HTPC:


I've set the timer equal on both PC's otherwise I can't even join the group, I created the homegroup on the HTPC and shared 'Music' to homegroup and read/write but also added Everyone afterwards. I'm not using any external Firewall nor antivirus program as I also discovered that with a Firewall I can't even joint the group as this port xxxx is blocked. I've deletede and created the homegroup countless times, rebooted both PC's all to no avail.

The Microsoft help is useless as they only mention to disable firewall and antivirus among other useless suggestions.

Any ideas?

[TEK]

Could you get a picture of just the error message? It's not possible to read the message you get.
Your are running windows 7 on the HTPC, right?
But what windows version are you running on your desktop?

[cochinada]

Could you get a picture of just the error message? It's not possible to read the message you get.
Your are running windows 7 on the HTPC, right?
But what windows version are you running on your desktop?

Sure thing!


I'm running the same Windows version on both PC's: Windows 7 Professional Service PAck 1 with all updates.

[TEK]

I assume both computers are connected to the same network. Right?
I assume that none of the computers are joined to a domain. Right?
Are the network connection on both computers set as "Private network" (and not for example public network/work network)?
Are you using the same logon user name and same password on both computers?

The error message claims that the user account is disabled. You have checked the user accounts on the computer where you defined the homegroup and verified that there is no disabled accounts?

I myself have never used the "Homegroup" function. I'm sharing the folders directly. You could try to see if you get that to work instead.
Go to the folder you want to share. Right click and select properties. You get a dialog. A tab in that dialog should say "Sharing".
I usually select "Advanced sharing" and give it the share name that I want to use. You could also use the username and account name on the other computer explicit access - instead of just Everyone.

[benthe8track]

I'd upgrade everything to Windows 10, the networking stuff seems to "just work" a lot better. You should be able to get the free upgrade. Also it's faster and the tiles are easier to maneuver on a big screen.

[cochinada]

I assume both computers are connected to the same network. Right?

Yes.

I assume that none of the computers are joined to a domain. Right?

Yes.

Are the network connection on both computers set as "Private network" (and not for example public network/work network)?

"Home".

Are you using the same logon user name and same password on both computers?

I enter directly without logon.

The error message claims that the user account is disabled. You have checked the user accounts on the computer where you defined the homegroup and verified that there is no disabled accounts?

The only account there is is Administrator.

I myself have never used the "Homegroup" function. I'm sharing the folders directly. You could try to see if you get that to work instead.
Go to the folder you want to share. Right click and select properties. You get a dialog. A tab in that dialog should say "Sharing".
I usually select "Advanced sharing" and give it the share name that I want to use. You could also use the username and account name on the other computer explicit access - instead of just Everyone.

I tried that before the homegroup but in this case I can't even open the 'HTPC-Joaquim' where this shared folder is.

[cochinada]

I'd upgrade everything to Windows 10, the networking stuff seems to "just work" a lot better. You should be able to get the free upgrade. Also it's faster and the tiles are easier to maneuver on a big screen.

Thank you but no thank you. Windows 10 has SERIOUS privacy issues. Also we have a saying that goes more or less like this: "when someone (Microsoft) gives you something for free, be cautious and alert" or you could also say "too good to be true".

[TEK]

I enter directly without logon.

Hmm, I have never worked or set up windows system without accounts.
When you try to acccess a share at one computer from another the computer sharing the information will authenticate that request. In a domain network the domain user is autenticated.
In a non-domain network the computer trying to get access will as default pass the users username and password. If that exist on the other computer you will get access with that user account.

When you do not have explisit users I'm not sure what windows will try to use when authenticating the request.
Might bee some limitation there - but I just don't know.

Sorry, hope someone with more experience in non-user account setups might chime in on this.

[cochinada]

Well, I will forget this story with the homegroups and go back trying with a 'normal' share. Even in a Windows system without explicit account usage, sharing any folder for 'Everyone' should work, otherwise what's the purpose of 'Everyone'? :huh:

[cochinada]

It's no use. Even a normal (without homegroup) share fails.

It asks me for user/pwd to connect to the shared folder on the HTPC but never enters. I created the user on the HTPC and even defined a pwd but I cannot logon from my desktop with these credentials.

Microsoft Windows [Version 6.1.7601]
Copyright (c) 2009 Microsoft Corporation. All rights reserved.

C:\Users\Joaquim>ping 192.168.1.34

Pinging 192.168.1.34 with 32 bytes of data:
Reply from 192.168.1.34: bytes=32 time=1ms TTL=128
Reply from 192.168.1.34: bytes=32 time<1ms TTL=128
Reply from 192.168.1.34: bytes=32 time<1ms TTL=128
Reply from 192.168.1.34: bytes=32 time<1ms TTL=128

Ping statistics for 192.168.1.34:
Packets: Sent = 4, Received = 4, Lost = 0 (0% loss),
Approximate round trip times in milli-seconds:
Minimum = 0ms, Maximum = 1ms, Average = 0ms

C:\Users\Joaquim>

[TEK]

Do you get a username/password input dialog when trying to access the share?
Do you see the share from the desktop?

[cochinada]

Do you get a username/password input dialog when trying to access the share?
Do you see the share from the desktop?

Yes I do and no I don't.

I FOUND THE SOLUTION!!!! Sorry but I had to scream... h:

It is incredibly obscure and I have no idea why windows on both my PC's was set like that...

"click the start button and type secpol.msc in the search function.

Browse to "Local Policies" -> "Security Options". Now look for the entry "Network Security: LAN Manager authentication level" and open it. Click on the dropdown menu and select "Send LM & NTLM - use NTLMv2 session security if negotiated". Apply the settings.

In the Advanced sharing settings page of Network and sharing center, you need to have it set as Work/Home profile. Try

-Enable network discovery
-Turn on file and print sharing
-Turn off password protected sharing
-Use user accounts and passwords to connect to other computers

The other settings such as encryption I have set as use 128 bit encryption.

Please check related policies.

1. Enter “gpedit.msc” in the Start Search box.
2. Open “Computer Configuration”/Windows Settings/Security Settings/Local Policies/Security Settings.
3. In the right pane, enable the following policies:

Network access: Allow anonymous SID/name translation
Network access: Let Everyone permissions apply to anonymous users

Also please disable the following policies.

Network access: Restrict anonymous access to Named Pipes and Shares
Network access: Do not allow anonymous enumeration of SAM accounts
Network access: Do not allow anonymous enumeration of SAM accounts and shares"

https://social.technet.microsoft.com/Forums/windows/en-US/68ffbe2a-09a7-4e29-859c-ca1aaf75dcd1/windows-7-cant-access-share-in-a-workgroup?forum=w7itpronetworking

[TEK]

Happy to hear that you figured it out!

[cochinada]

I've finally finished ripping my entire collection and am on the trial period with JRiver. So far so good although I didn't explore not even 1/100th of the possibilities. Most of the options are too complicated for my needs anyway and I had already a hard time to figure out a way to separate my classical albums from the popular ones but eventually I was able to do it.

Now the problem is to get my remote working.

As you probably remember I have bought FLIRC and I'm trying to program my One For All URC-7960 but I must be doing something wrong or not doing...

I was told on the JRiver forum that I should use Theater view instead of Standard View because it was intended for this very same purpose of controlling the MC with a remote with arrow keys BUT my arrow keys don't do anything!
Play, pause, stop, next or previous track work fine but without being able to move the cursor on the screen with the remote arrow keys this is completely useless.

How can I program them the right way?

[cochinada]

Well... some progress. After ditching my One For All remote and using my Sony TV one instead things are not so erratic anymore, except for this 'back' button that I'm not sure how it works and makes me leave Theater view accidentally.

Anyway, after some customization done on this view I'm feeling better with the result although I would like to change some things.

[TEK]

Happy to hear you are getting it to work.

The ideal solution is to have your computer auto-login and then auto-start jriver in theater view.
As long as you only use jriver you should be able to control everything with your remote - and life should be good.
There is one conclution that I have reached that has made my life easier. That is to always leave the pc on. No standby, no shutdown or anything. Just "on". Standby, sleep and all that is in my experience notorious for causing issues related to graphic or sound.

On my part, that is using the PC as a media center, I have totally given up the "control by remote" path.
A brief periode of time I had it all working in Windows Media Center. TV-tuner, videos, audio and radio. Sweet time it was.
And then bluray came - but after lots of mocking around I was able to start the external player from WMC.
And then Netflix came as well as a bunchbof other stuff, and WMC was stopped. Netflix is terrible in the respect of remote control support. It is impossible to control netflix with a remote.
Also, it's not integreted in (or to purly integrated) in JRiver. Same with stuff as youtube and so on.

So, for me the end result is that I have given up - I uses a keyboard and switch between different media applications as needed for the best application according to the purpose.
Still dreaming about that nice fully remote controllable media onterface that can control all my media sources trough a remote, but the world and suppliers just isn't there. Probably never will be as long as the basic idea from JRiver and simular companies is to make one frontend to serve it all in.
A different type of approach is needed!

[cochinada]

Happy to hear you are getting it to work.

The ideal solution is to have your computer auto-login and then auto-start jriver in theater view.
As long as you only use jriver you should be able to control everything with your remote - and life should be good.
There is one conclution that I have reached that has made my life easier. That is to always leave the pc on. No standby, no shutdown or anything. Just "on". Standby, sleep and all that is in my experience notorious for causing issues related to graphic or sound.

Hi TEK.
Thanks but what kind of issues are you talking about? Reliability issues? In my case, for as much as I love music I don't listen to it everyday so I'm not sure if leaving this dedicated PC turned on 24/7 is a such a good idea. Not that I'm a cheapskate but in what concerns my electricity bill it sure isn't. :P

Some years ago I bought a fancy remote, top of the line it was with a touch screen when these were pretty much the state of the art and a novelty on the market. I believe it was a Philips, expensive as hell, needless to say. I developed some complicated macros in order to turn on and make ready the proper gear, depending whether I wanted to listen to music, watch tv or even see a movie on my projector but often something went wrong as one of the equipment on the chain simply refused to turn on or something equally annoying. Then with time and changing of the equipment I had to go over again and more (different) problems came along so I eventually gave up and sold it.

Now, with all these new platforms and frontends to make things even more challenging like you say I agree this is Mission Impossible X.

[TEK]

Yup, typically various stability issues.
Screen want turn on, turn itself on when not expected to and so on. A pain in the a**.
Now I just gi for "always on" and there is almost no issues.
I'm using a Harmony Ultimate rf based remote. That actually works pritty good for on/off/selecting devices/control the tv and so on. But after sekecting the PC as a source it's keyboard time. Have given up trying anything else.

[cochinada]

Here I am again with another weird problem. So weird that I'm not sure whom or where to ask for help...

I have background noise and computer noises amplified whenever I do simple things like moving the mouse.

First let me explain the equipment I'm using and how it is all connected.

The central piece is my heavily modded integrated amplifier with these 3 entries:
1 - CD Player (turned off)
2 - HTPC
3 - A/V Processor

I'm using as soundcard a Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 connected to the HTPC via USB and my DIY 4way speakers of course.

a) With entry HTPC, It's enough to have the HTPC sitting quiet for having a background noise (hissssss audible on the tweeters) in my speakers.
b) If I select entry A/V but with the A/V processor still turned off, and I use the mouse wheel or do anything that demands the HTPC to start working I hear this huge noise like crrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr (as if one was tuning a very distance radio station).

I've installed the latest drives on the soundcard and connected it to another USB. No result.

What can I do more?

[cochinada]

It seems I'm not alone in this awkward predicament...


https://www.google.co.uk/search?num=100&safe=off&site=&source=hp&q=noise+wh en+scrolling&oq=noise+&gs_l=hp.1.0.35i39j0i67j0i20 j0i131j0i20j0i131j0l4.30285.32004.0.34205.8.8.0.0. 0.0.150.772.6j2.8.0....0...1c.1.64.hp..0.6.546.0.6 DWG4jRQ9GE

[wkhanna]

maybe try using & swapping any or all of the different USB ports that are available.

[cochinada]

Thanks for the suggestion. Meanwhile I've already disconnected all USB devices, including my soundcard and keyboard or mouse one each time and am using the onboard audio instead. Still the problem remains.
I also noticed that the noises are incredibly loud when I use the arrow keys on the keyboard for scrolling, even more than the mouse. They are also much louder with entry A/V then with entry HTPC.
This can be related to video memory as I read because I don't have a video card (I'm using the motherboard GPU instead) or something like this:

"What you're seeing - hearing, even - is a combination of interrupts and power surges.

You move the mouse and the port pulls an interrupt - The user wants something to happen RIGHT NOW. The CPU must then jump into activity and service this interrupt (that causes a power surge), then the video card, handling the hardware pointer and the display, does the same.

The power surge out of the PSU means that the PSU's other rails jump a tiny bit. A short, instantaneous, load out of one rail of an SMPS means the voltages of the other rails rise for that instant. That's just the nature of the beast.

That tiny voltage spike then affects your sound DAC, causing a series of rapid clicks which can be heard as a drone or a buzz.

Hard disks can do the same, as can any I/O task performed at low CPU use. If you load your CPU first with some background task (e.g. Prime95), the noise goes away, since the CPU never transitions rapidly from low power to high power.

I find it mostly affects add-in sound cards and not often onboard sound, since onboard sound has a cleaner connection to power planes. "

I even disabled all devices in windows audio panel except for my Realtek High Definition Audio as I'm using motherboard's line out to my amplifier right now. I don't have any recording devices either. :cry:

[cochinada]

I found the culprit but am not certain yet of how to solve the issue.
It is indeed a ground loop. The problem vanishes if I physically remove the connection between the A/V and the amplifier or between the HTPC and the amplifier.
Perhaps I need to remove all earths from the mains...