Cambridge Audio Azure 640c

[evilbull55]

My 640c isn't putting any sound out. Everything appears to be running, but just no audio. I also checked to be sure it wasn't muted using the remote, but that isn't it either. I Checked it out thouroughly, and can't find anything obvious. Any of you had the same trouble?

[Johnloudb]

Hi, it sounds broken. Don't throw it out yet as I'm not familiar with the player - maybe someone else is.

After I clicked on this thread I noticed a Cambridge Audio add in the "Ads by Google" banner. Amazing how that happens! :B

[wkhanna]

Sorry to hear you are having trouble.

I have never had an problems with my 640c V2.

Have you tried the both the analog & digital outputs?

[evilbull55]

No clue how to check digital outs. Wish I had a scope.

[PewterTA]

There's two ports on the back of the CDP, one is a digital output needing a TOSlink cable (fiber optic cable), the other is an Digital Coaxial connection. It looks like a regular RCA cable (same as you use for your analog outputs, you can even use one enough to test). Just take it and hook one or both into your receiver and see if you get sound on those inputs. If you have a complete Analog setup and no digital inputs, if you have a new TV it probably has a TOSlink input on it you can use to see.

[bobola]

I have a 640c version2 with the same problem. When it was a little over 1 year old, it started distorting from the analag output. I had it fixed under warranty. Six months ago the analog output completely quit, but both optical and coax digital outputs work fine. The player is now 4.5 years old, and an estimate for repair from the U.S. distributers came in at ~$150, plus shipping. Since I don't think they fixed it correctly to begin with, I decided to not have it repaired and to stay away from Cambridge Audio products going forward.

Good luck!

[HarrietFlorence]

Cambridge Audio 640C V2 Azur

Hello, ive had same problem, i put disk in, everything okay ( always seemed to be a bit slugish and occasionally not play a disk but i overlooked that) pressed play, tracks came up started playing, NO sound coming out though. turned it on / off and changed the input on the c/a amplifier to see whether it was a faulty connection . dident make a difference. plugged my amp and speakers into my telly, the speakers worked perfect. so its def the cd player. this cost me like £300 and richersounds are wanting £40 for repair as its just out of warranty, is there anything i can do, the speakers work, its the cd player.

HELLLLPPPPPP!!!!


X

[madmac]

Good Mfr's stand by their products. Cambridge equipment costs more so therefore people expect better than a CD player lasting only 4.5 years when they buy their product. My Marantz is way over 10 years old and still running great. I had an Oppo dvd player that crapped out on me after 2 years past the warranty and they fixed it for free and paid return shipping. Rotel gave me another receiver when mine malfunctioned after almost 5 years. If Cambridge is happy if their players stop working after 4 years then they are going to be in trouble because it looks, based on this thread that there is a defect in the analog stage of this player. That's what this forum is for......to be informed about bad products and good one's.

[Takao Oikawa]

I used to own a Cambridge 640A V2. Sonicly, it was fine for its price range (fairly priced) however I found built quality disappointing.

[wkhanna]

Welcome to the Forum, Takao!

I’m curious as to what specifically you found lacking in the build quality.

How long did you own and use it?

Was it a v1 (single DAC) or a v2 (duel DAC)?

Did it ever malfunction while you had it?

What did you replace it with?

Regards,

[r100gs]

Auditioning a new 740c, hope she holds out for the long run. I still have my external dac hooked up so I can do an A/B comparison while using the 740 as a transport with a flick of a switch.

[wkhanna]

IIRC, didn’t you just resurrect your CDp by replacing the laser yourself?

The 740 has great reviews. I have the 640 v2 and have heard the 840 in my system when Dan (PewterTA) brought his over for a day's worth of listening.

Are you using a Xindak DAC-3 dac?
How do you like it?
Where did you get it?

I’ll be interested in how it compares to the 740. I am in search of a DAC currently as I peruse implementing HiRes via a dedicated hard drive.

[r100gs]

IIRC, didn’t you just resurrect your CDp by replacing the laser yourself?

The 740 has great reviews. I have the 640 v2 and have heard the 840 in my system when Dan (PewterTA) brought his over for a day's worth of listening.

Are you using a Xindak DAC-3 dac?
How do you like it?
Where did you get it?

I’ll be interested in how it compares to the 740. I am in search of a DAC currently as I peruse implementing HiRes via a dedicated hard drive.

My handy work on the laser replacement went well but did not last long. It took another dive on me. I bought the Xindak, $350 shipped from China, maybe 4 to 5 years back. I have always been impressed with it. I'm trying not to listen to the the dac too much because I'm very fond of its sound! Right now I'm giving the 740c a chance to break into my ears. The top end is very detailed and the bottom end is very nice also. It's the midrange, I will have to give it a chance. Time will tell, maybe 5 hours on the 740c right now. Thanks for the reply. :T

[wkhanna]

From what I have read, 150 hours of burn-in is typical for this unit.

One of the features I like most on this unit is that it has two seperate digital inputs that up-sample the data.

Please keep us posted on your evaluations.

Enjoy!

[FALCONT]

640c V2 No analog

R11 on the DAC/output pcb is 2K2 in value and goes high causing the mute relay to stay permanently on mute. Replace with a 1% metal film 0.6w (MRS25).

V1 board is different.

[Wage Slave]

R11 on the DAC/output pcb is 2K2 in value and goes high causing the mute relay to stay permanently on mute. Replace with a 1% metal film 0.6w (MRS25).

V1 board is different.

Yes, bang on the money. Thank you so much. This was exactly what was wrong with my 640C and it is now working flawlessly again with a resistor from my odds and sods collection and an hour's work.

The stock item is 0.125 watt and it just burns out. Mine wasn't high, it was open circuit. I fitted a 0.5 watt carbon film about a quarter inch above the circuit board for extra cooling.

It doesn't help that it is near the smoothing caps and Cambridge decided to use lots of epoxy to secure them. It had a nice blanket of epoxy which didn't help cooling one bit. I still think it is underspecified though.

[r100gs]

Wage slave, That's great you got it fixed. :T

[Wage Slave]

Thank you. I was very pleased. Something very satisfying about repairing something with just a part you have left over from other jobs.

[grinccaffe]

Cambridge 640C V2, no sound

Hi, greetings from Croatia.
I have exactly the same problem with the Cambridge 640C V2. Digital output works normally, but do not let analog output sound (occasionally plays and then stops again). I see that a fellow Wage Slave fixed the problem (instructions from FALCONT) in a way that has replaced the factory resistor with 1% metal film 0.6W (MRS25). I want to buy a replacement resistor with 1% metal film 0.6W (MRS25) but I'm confused by the different (OHM) values. I'm afraid to fall off.
What is the precise designation of the resistors?
Thanks and greetings to all forum members.
P.S.
I forgot to point out that the supply voltage is 220V.

[Chris D]

I do hope our guys can get that info for you to help you out...

BTW, my family heritage is from Split, Croatia!

[grinccaffe]

I do hope our guys can get that info for you to help you out...

BTW, my family heritage is from Split, Croatia!

Chris thanks for the encouragement.
BTW, Split is the most beautiful city on the Croatian Adriatic coast

[Chris D]

Oops... I meant the family comes from near Split. A little town called Turjace, actually.

[wkhanna]

I was hoping Glen might see see this post & help us out.

[grinccaffe]

Hi, greetings from Croatia.
I have exactly the same problem with the Cambridge 640C V2. Digital output works normally, but do not let analog output sound (occasionally plays and then stops again). I see that a fellow Wage Slave fixed the problem (instructions from FALCONT) in a way that has replaced the factory resistor with 1% metal film 0.6W (MRS25). I want to buy a replacement resistor with 1% metal film 0.6W (MRS25) but I'm confused by the different (OHM) values. I'm afraid to fall off.
What is the precise designation of the resistors?
Thanks and greetings to all forum members.
P.S.
I forgot to point out that the supply voltage is 220V.

Hello guys, (Wage Slave, FALCONT ...) are no longer reads the posts?
I need help o fix my 640C V2 .

[wkhanna]

I was hoping we would hear from someone with the correct answer to our question by now & help us out.

Do not give up yet, I will keep bumping the thread.

Have you tried contacting CA for guidance?
Maybe someone their would be willing to help give the spec.
Are there any electronic repair shops near you that may be able help?

[grinccaffe]

I was hoping we would hear from someone with the correct answer to our question by now & help us out.

Do not give up yet, I will keep bumping the thread.

Have you tried contacting CA for guidance?
Maybe someone their would be willing to help give the spec.
Are there any electronic repair shops near you that may be able help?

Thanks for your support.
I have in my town authorized importer for CA but they give no information. They want me to bring the player back to them. This means (guarantee expired) at least $ 100 to determine the defect. In the experience of colleagues FALCONT and Wage Slave, I need to transform an existing resistor with replacement resistor with 1% metal film 0.6W (MRS25) that costs less than one U.S. dollar. Resistor can be purchased here in Croatia or through eBay but do not know (ohm) the exact value.

http://elcodis.com/searchparts/mrs25-50_1.html

I hope that some of the forum members have the right information.
Best regaeds from Croatia

[Johnloudb]

Thanks for your support.
I have in my town authorized importer for CA but they give no information. They want me to bring the player back to them. This means (guarantee expired) at least $ 100 to determine the defect. In the experience of colleagues FALCONT and Wage Slave, I need to transform an existing resistor with replacement resistor with 1% metal film 0.6W (MRS25) that costs less than one U.S. dollar. Resistor can be purchased here in Croatia or through eBay but do not know (ohm) the exact value.

http://elcodis.com/searchparts/mrs25-50_1.html

I hope that some of the forum members have the right information.
Best regaeds from Croatia

Can you take a picture of the existing resistor and post it? Does it have color codes (colored bands around it)? You could tell me the colored bands and I could tell you the value.

[grinccaffe]

Can you take a picture of the existing resistor and post it? Does it have color codes (colored bands around it)? You could tell me the colored bands and I could tell you the value.

Thanks for the suggestion. I took the player to a friendly service (no cost), and I gave them instructions (I printed off the text from the forum) and wait for the information. I hope that, in my case, is also a problem in the resistor ;x(
I'll report the outcome
Best regards.

[Glen B]

In post #15 Falcont said the resistor value is 2K2 or 2.2KΩ.

[wkhanna]

Thanks to John & Glen both for helping us out.

Glen- I never knew K2K = 2.2

Now it makes sense.

[grinccaffe]

In post #15 Falcont said the resistor value is 2K2 or 2.2KΩ.

I have realized that the value (2K2 or 2.2KΩ) is from the existing resistor and it should be replaced with the replacement resistor with 1% metal film 0.6W (MRS25).

[Sootboots]

I had the same problem. Found R11, removed it, showed to be burnt on the bottom and measured open. Replaced with same value, larger size, above the board for good heat dissiapation and now the CD player works again. Thanks to the brilliant minds that diagnosed this problem and came up with the repair!

John Pippy

[Wage Slave]

Sorry, I haven't popped back for a good while. Anyway, good to hear at least one other person has done this simple repair on their 640C. So, just to confirm, yes, the resistor in question is 2,200 ohms, 2.2k ohms and banded red/red/red to indicate that. It supplies power to the muting relay so when it burns out the relay doesn't operate and hence the output remains disconnected.

The type and tolerance is not critical in this position. It is nowhere near the signal path. As long as you find a resistor the right value and at least half a watt then you will be fine. There is plenty of room on the board and above the board so a bigger resistor fitted 10mm or so clear of the board is a piece of cake.

Anyone with basic soldering skills will be able to do it. All you need is:

A resistor (will cost 20c or so)
A small torx screwdriver to take the lid off
A soldering iron
Something to desolder with - either a solder sucker or braid depending on your preference
A pair of wire snippers to trim the leads
A pair of long nose pliers

Simply take the top off. Look at the left hand side main board and find R11. It's near the big capacitors. Put an ohmmeter on it. If you get anything higher than 2.2k then it needs replacing. Unplug all the leads to the board taking a note of where they go. The longnose pliers are useful for this. Some may be a bit stubborn. Take your time and work them firmly but gently and they will come clear. The board is secured with about 4 small phillips head bolts from memory. Undo these and the board will come free. Flip it over and locate R11 again. Desolder it and remove. Fit the new resistor with an airgap, solder and trim. Re-assemble and test.

[JonMarsh]

Thanks for sharing this and posting in such detail. If you had any pics from when you did this work, I'm sure some folks would really appreciate it.

I don't have a 640C, but I do have several other pieces of Cambridge gear, most of which I have ben very pleased with their performance. Most recently I bought one of the 851E preamps, and I'd say they've taken both performance and build quality to a new level for Cambridge Audio. I got a 650BD Blu-Ray player for my GF, and she's been much happier with it than past players, especially because of general functionality and operation, but then too, it has very good picture quality on her Panasonic Plasma TV.

I guess the 651C is the new equivalent of the 640C.




Recently I bought one of their 851e preamps, and it has been working out just fine, sounds great, and again, a lot of useful operational features, plus three sets of balanced inputs!





It's not audio jewelry build quality, but it's been stepped up quite a bit from the 40 series products like my older power amp and preamp.

[Wage Slave]

Here's a couple of pictures I took at the time. In my case the resistor is smothered in glue from a glue gun used to secure the large smoothing capacitors at the factory. Not a pretty sight at all.

I think there was one or two bolts and a number of black plastic clips securing the board. Just squeeze on the clips to release them. Do that first and see if the board comes free. If not, then go ahead and remove the bolts. The dual Wolfson DACs are on the other side of the board if I remember correctly and can be admired when you do this little repair.

[creakypete]

Thanks to FALCONT & Wage Slave I followed your advice and now have a working player again.

[wkhanna]

That is Great! :T

[PewterTA]

Great to hear!!!!

[synthi]

thanks to everyone and in particular the r11 suggesters!!

(my 640c was audio dead, and now is back at work again)

[Wage Slave]

thanks to everyone and in particular the r11 suggesters!!

(my 640c was audio dead, and now is back at work again)

Great to hear. Google doing it's magic again?

[neanderthal]

Just joined to say thanks to Wageslave and Falcont. Followed great instructions and my 640c is working again. Interestingly I ordered resistor from RS, 24 for £4 so replacement part was 16p vs cost of a new player! They accidently sent me 2 packs so now have 47 spare resistors! Happy to send one to anyone that needs one FOC for a donation to Cancer Research.

[wkhanna]

...........Followed great instructions and my 640c is working again............

i love to see a post like this........

well done, nean.......

[Wage Slave]

Just looked back at my first post. Over 5 years ago! Anyway, my 640C worked perfectly for 5 years and then recently developed a problem with the drawer not wanting to open. The eject switch on the front is a bit hit and miss (I haven't been able to fix that with cleaner spray) but the eject button on the remote is fine. Googling around a bit I found drawer problems are almost always the result of a little rubber drive belt that becomes hard and distorted over time. Sure enough that's what my problem is. Here's a useful link:

http://pc-restorer.com/repair-a-stuck-cd-dvd-drive-door-in-10-minutes/

The belt on the 640C is at the rear of the drive unit so you can't get at it from the front. Get the tray out by hook or by crook. Unless the belt has snapped (v unlikely) giving it a bit of help with a knife or something while pressing the button should do it. Disconnect the power and take off the top (mini torx screws). With the tray out there is enough room to get the belt out and fit a new one with a pair of tweezers or better an always very handy hook tool.



The belt is about 32mm by 2mm but you can buy variety pack and that seems like an excellent idea because then you are bound to have the right one and you will have spares for other drives around the house. Or an elastic band worked very well while I was waiting for the parts to arrive.

So, 12 years on my 640C is still working fine and I am still happy with the sound. It's hooked up to a refurbished/recapped Quad 303/33 (about 45 years old ) and Quad bookshelf speakers.

[wkhanna]

So, 12 years on my 640C is still working fine and I am still happy with the sound. It's hooked up to a refurbished/recapped Quad 303/33 (about 45 years old ) and Quad bookshelf speakers.

would luv to see pics!!!!

[Wage Slave]

would luv to see pics!!!!