What are some really nice veneers and finishes to use for speakers?

[JonW]

I’m looking for suggestions and photos of speakers on which people have used really nice veneer or wood and finishes. Can’t decide what I want to use. I guess cherry is the default. The only constraints I can think of are that this will be my first experience using veneer and I will have a 3/4” roundover on the left and right edges of the front baffles to go over. I’ve seen some stunning photos of wood or veneer on speakers here, but can’t seem to find them now. Just looking for something pretty. What veneer and what finish do you folks like? Thanks.

-Jon

[ssabripo]

If you can afford Rosewood, that's the ticket! Rosewood veneer, on a Piano gloss finish is pretty much Nirvana!!!

[Hdale85]

Those do look amazing. Others i like are Quilted maple and Tiger Maple. There are others but i dont know the names i'll have to look into some veneer's for pics and stuff. I just missed my bus so im going to be late for work now Joy How hard is it to get a Piano gloss on stained veneer? I was concidering doing a deep blue stain and try and get a piano gloss finish on my speakers.

[Dotay]

I really like the figured cherry with a linseed oil finish Brian used for his bit RS 3 ways.







The finish on Jon's M8ta's look pretty sweet too although I'm not sure exactly what type of veneer he used.

[BobEllis]

What else is in the room you will use them in? The speakers above are beautiful, but those in post 2 would probably look out of place in a room full of light woods and fabrics. Others may (surely will) disagree, but I think that the size of the veneer's figure should be similar to the size of the box. Birds eye, quilted and curly maple are beautiful, but I don't want a tower speaker covered with it. For me that much figure wold be easier to take with a dark colored dye/stain or a dark species. To me highly figured woods should be accents rather than the main focus.

I love zebrawood, my next project will use it against a mostly piano gloss black cabinet. I wouldn't want a surface much bigger than an electric bass guitar body in zebrawood.

For a first veneering project, I suggest a relatively inexpensive veneer in an appropriate tone. Bending over a 3/4" radius isn't much of a problem with paper backed veneers. the catch is that paper backed veneers are only available in a limited selection.

Some raw veneers can make the bend you want with some softening/coaxing. Definitely worth practicing your technique on some scrap and small boxes with 3/4" roundovers.

Another method is to leave the boxes square, apply veneer then cut a rabbet for a roundover molding in the same species. (Could be slightly oversized square stock that you roundover)

A neat veneer slide show: http://www.wood-veneers.com/beauty/beauty.html

http://www.tapeease.com/Home.htm - a source of paper backed veneers.

www.joewoodworker.com - veneers and technique tutorials

EDIT: Check out Tape ease's overstock section for some inexpensive practice stock

[JonW]

That rosewood is pretty. Not really to my tastes, but it’s very nice. The gloss helps, too.

The M8ta might be my favorite of the ones shown here so far. Quite nice.

Keep the ideas coming.

What else is in the room you will use them in? The speakers above are beautiful, but those in post 2 would probably look out of place in a room full of light woods and fabrics. Others may (surely will) disagree, but I think that the size of the veneer's figure should be similar to the size of the box. Birds eye, quilted and curly maple are beautiful, but I don't want a tower speaker covered with it. For me that much figure wold be easier to take with a dark colored dye/stain or a dark species. To me highly figured woods should be accents rather than the main focus.

I love zebrawood, my next project will use it against a mostly piano gloss black cabinet. I wouldn't want a surface much bigger than an electric bass guitar body in zebrawood.

For a first veneering project, I suggest a relatively inexpensive veneer in an appropriate tone. Bending over a 3/4" radius isn't much of a problem with paper backed veneers. the catch is that paper backed veneers are only available in a limited selection.

Some raw veneers can make the bend you want with some softening/coaxing. Definitely worth practicing your technique on some scrap and small boxes with 3/4" roundovers.

Another method is to leave the boxes square, apply veneer then cut a rabbet for a roundover molding in the same species. (Could be slightly oversized square stock that you roundover)

A neat veneer slide show: http://www.wood-veneers.com/beauty/beauty.html

http://www.tapeease.com/Home.htm - a source of paper backed veneers.

www.joewoodworker.com - veneers and technique tutorials

EDIT: Check out Tape ease's overstock section for some inexpensive practice stock

Bob-
Good points. I agree that the size of the item and the veneer pattern should be matched, at least somewhat. Like a birds eye or zebra wood on a large speaker could get to be too “busy” looking.

For my current speaker project, they are small- the Modula MT’s. But I’m also looking for general ideas and inspiration. I may well build some large speakers after these are done.

The room is, indeed, pretty light/bright. White or off white walls and ceiling. A pine, somewhat yellowed wood floor. Lots of really nice light comes in the windows. But I don’t know what the future of the room will be, or how long I’ll stay in this house. Heck, I may even buy furniture some day.

I’m kind of into lighter woods, myself. Although I can never argue with a nice cherry.

That veneer slide show is nice- beautiful woods there. Thanks for the other links- Once I decide on a veneer variety, I don’t know where I’ll order it from.

[JonW]

Here's a really nice one. Look at the photo in post #3:

https://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19892

I don't care for the zebrawood sides too much. But the front is really super. Nice wood, nice red color, nice shiny finish. I dropped him a PM to learn more about it, but haven't heard anything back just yet. According to his web site the front baffle is Indian Paduk. Not sure if it's a veneer or the actual wood. I can't find much by googling "indian paduk."

[Rene D]

if you can find Paduk in veneer, it's amazing. Personally I like using the darker woods. Right now I have a thing for zebra wood.

Image not available

[tktran]

Tasmanian Myrtle- raw unfinished veneer is a lovely pink colour.

[Amphiprion]

Anything curly/fiddleback/birdseye for me. I gotta have the crazy light reflections that highly figured species with gloss finishes gives.

[Hdale85]

I really like this stuff and would love to do my speakers in it but its rather expensive at $241 per sheet of red oak. How much would one sheet of that cover? I'm going to be building the TMWW 3 ways soon would it cover both of them?

http://www.tapeease.com/wood_weave.htm

[JoshK]

I am one of the few who thinks that super busy rosewood is gaudy. I am also not into red colored woods, but natural cherry I find beautiful.

I like the RS3ways and M8ta veneer where the figure is beautiful but doesn't blast you from across the room. Its more subtle. I am with Bob and JonW on this one for the most part.

I have grown to really love dark & stained wood. After years with the natural cherry look, my wife decided to redecorate in all medium and dark mahogany (different rooms). The medium mahogany is just ok, the really darkly stained mahogany is the bomb IMO. I just think it looks really eloquent, but it isn't really in fashion these days it seems. Everything is done in lighter or red colored woods. Here is a crotch mahogany picture that is beautiful.



For a busier and lighter veneer that I actually do like, despite having lots of pizzazz is mappa burl. I think it is also elogent, but I'd rather use it as a contrasting veneer.
mappa burl

[FlashJim]

I really like this stuff and would love to do my speakers in it but its rather expensive at $241 per sheet of red oak. How much would one sheet of that cover? I'm going to be building the TMWW 3 ways soon would it cover both of them?

http://www.tapeease.com/wood_weave.htm

Sheets are 44"x94"

[Hdale85]

yea... I figured it would come out to exactly 94" that i would need to wrap around the sides and back as im going to paint the fronts gloss black. But then there isnt enough for the tops so 1 sheet isnt enough. If i painted the back black and just did the sides and tops it would be enough. But im not sure i want to do that.

[JonW]

That Tasmanian myrtle looks really nice. :T


Can’t argue with that mappa burl, either.

Rene-
Is that front baffle a veneer or solid wood? Where did you get it? How did you stain and/or finish it? Very nice work. :T

[nox9colt45]

What type of finish is it, to get that piano gloss look? tung oil isnt that thick/shiny is it? Would it be oil based Poly? (again, not sure if thats thick/shiny enough)

That Onix speakers (i think they are) dark red finish in the 2nd post is what im looking for in a finish.

[Brian Bunge]

Dotay,

That veneer is figured cherry, not maple. It's much the same (might even be from the same sheet) veneer I used on this subwoofer:

Images not available

[Fryguy]

I like black-stained oak veneer (analine dye)

http://webpages.charter.net/fryguy

[Hdale85]

Looks too commercial to me. Just like every klipsch, yamaha, sony so on and so forth sub on the market. Blah. Just my opinion if you like it thats what counts of course :B

[Brian Bunge]

What you don't realize is that at least his is real MDF (not particle board) and real veneer instead of the vinyl crap the companies you mentioned use. While I'm not a huge fan of oak, especially black oak, when done right it does look very nice.

[Hdale85]

I agree i was just saying it "looks" that way but as i said all that maters is the person that built them likes them. Thats whats great about DIY!

[steve nn]

I’m looking for suggestions and photos of speakers on which people have used really nice veneer or wood and finishes. What veneer and what finish do you folks like? Thanks.
-Jon

From the little experience I have had so far I favor Cherry on account of I know I like it. I'm sure if I experimented with other veneers and other stains, I would find some other nice looks no doubt.

The first pic is Cherry with Fruitwood stain and the second is with Vermont Maple. A few things to take into account is how different the outcome can be with how many coats you apply. The stripe in the second pic reflects one coat of VM stain while the rest of the enclosure reflects five or six coats.

When applying stain you will achieve a better more consistent outcome if you apply the stain and then take a dry rag and wipe the excess away while being careful to blend as you go.

[Martyn]

If this is your first veneering project and you like figured veneers and you'd like a high gloss finish, you might be being a little over-ambitious. Unless you are already quite a good woodworker, you're going to make mistakes - edges not quite square, surfaces not quite flat, edges with a little blow-out, and so on. A high gloss is very unforgiving.

If you like figured veneers with lots of chatoyance (like I do) such as the tiger maple you mentioned, you risk losing much of that (expensive) "shimmer" if you screw up the finishing.

If I were you, I'd take my cue from the finishes in my room and its furnishings, and then go for something that is mid-tone or darker. With light tones you risk highlighting all your sloppy joints as dark lines!

If it'll match your furnishings, I'd agree with Josh and use mahogany. It's readily available and can be finished to a beautiful rich red-brown. Its only weakness is that the grain is somewhat open, and if you want a shine you'll have to fill it without obscuring the natural richness. Buy a good book on veneering and finishing, then don't rush it.

If you like contrasting finishes, you could try a mahogany box with either a tiger maple or plain black baffle. Maybe you could maximise the WAF by offering her interchangeable baffles! :lol:

[Fryguy]

I agree i was just saying it "looks" that way but as i said all that maters is the person that built them likes them. Thats whats great about DIY!

Dougie, while I tend to agree with you, my main problem with these other more exotic woods is they don't match anything.

And my subwoofer looks better in real life than commercial offerings (the texture is much more noticable, the grain looks better, etc). And it's going to match pretty much any furniture I end up with.

For those of you that own houses and own all of your furniture that you don't plan on changing ever, go ahead and match it

I'm a just-graduated college student who's going to be moving into his first appartment in the next couple of weeks, so having something that matches anything my roomate brings along is an advantage for me.

[Hdale85]

Thats very true. I live with my fiancee in an apartment and we don't have that much furniture. But I'm going to have like black furniture mostly in my apartment or i'll build it and match it to my speakers. The fronts of my speakers are going to be black so it should all match up very well regardless :B. But i understand your point very well.

[Dotay]

Dotay,

That veneer is figured cherry, not maple. It's much the same (might even be from the same sheet) veneer I used on this subwoofer:

Oops, I knew that...must have been a brain fart while I was typing. ops:

[jbateman]

If you want a lot of figure without it being too "busy" quilted maple can be found with large rolling quilts that look like clouds, rather than the tight curls of fiddle back maple.
This isn't a great picture, but gives some idea.

Image not available

[JonW]

Brian-
Your sub looks super. :T Figured cherry might be good. But the general shaping and sizing of your sub looks really nice.

Steve-
So for the sub with the stripe, the stripe is just less stain than the rest? Interesting.

If this is your first veneering project and you like figured veneers and you'd like a high gloss finish, you might be being a little over-ambitious. Unless you are already quite a good woodworker, you're going to make mistakes - edges not quite square, surfaces not quite flat, edges with a little blow-out, and so on. A high gloss is very unforgiving.

Good points and I agree with all of them- thanks. I'd be happy to drop the high gloss and just go for a nice veneer. Maybe even a simpler veneer if it will help, given that this is my first outing.

If you like figured veneers with lots of chatoyance (like I do) such as the tiger maple you mentioned, you risk losing much of that (expensive) "shimmer" if you screw up the finishing.

Good point. Obvious, I guess, but I hadn't thought of that.

If I were you, I'd take my cue from the finishes in my room and its furnishings, and then go for something that is mid-tone or darker. With light tones you risk highlighting all your sloppy joints as dark lines!

I'm not too wedded to what's in the room. So I'm kind of thinking of just using a veneer I really, really like. Idunnno, though...

If it'll match your furnishings, I'd agree with Josh and use mahogany. It's readily available and can be finished to a beautiful rich red-brown. Its only weakness is that the grain is somewhat open, and if you want a shine you'll have to fill it without obscuring the natural richness. Buy a good book on veneering and finishing, then don't rush it.

If you like contrasting finishes, you could try a mahogany box with either a tiger maple or plain black baffle. Maybe you could maximize the WAF by offering her interchangeable baffles! :lol:[/QUOTE]

I'm not worried about WAF at (ahem) this time.



Now this is about as pretty of wood as I've ever seen. really, really. nice.



Image not available


Maybe I'll go for a quilted maple. Any suggestions for where to buy it?

My other current favorites are a figured maple or regular (no special pattern) maple or cherry.

[Martyn]

Jon, I really like quilted maple too. You shouldn't have much difficulty finding sources in the US, but bear in mind that this is a natural product and will vary enormously. Also bear in mind that the piece in the photo is book-matched which adds to the dramatic effect. This is something else that you would have to do yourself - and another opportunity for Murphy's Law to strike! You would do well to buy some cheap, unfigured maple veneer to practise on. Make a simple MDF box and practise cutting, gluing, trimming, sanding, staining, and finishing the cheap stuff before you start on that unique piece of Mother Nature's art. If you drop in at the Fine Woodworking forum, you'll find lots of very knowledgeable folk waiting to help you.

[JonW]

Jon, I really like quilted maple too. You shouldn't have much difficulty finding sources in the US, but bear in mind that this is a natural product and will vary enormously. Also bear in mind that the piece in the photo is book-matched which adds to the dramatic effect. This is something else that you would have to do yourself - and another opportunity for Murphy's Law to strike! You would do well to buy some cheap, unfigured maple veneer to practise on. Make a simple MDF box and practise cutting, gluing, trimming, sanding, staining, and finishing the cheap stuff before you start on that unique piece of Mother Nature's art. If you drop in at the Fine Woodworking forum, you'll find lots of very knowledgeable folk waiting to help you.

Thanks Martyn,

No, I didn't even realize the photo veneer is book matched- that's how little I know about this. So do you cut it down the middle and then put the two pieces together? I'd think it easier to just start with one big piece. Probably more expensive, though.

Yeah, maybe practice is a good place to start. Do people just order veneer over the web, sight unseen? Seems a little tough to do. Maybe I'll wait until I'm traveling and in a city and try to find some veneer to actually see and touch. And yeah, maybe I should start with something simple and cheap. Heck, just a regular, plain maple or cherry looks really nice to me. Figured cherry (that's what I meant before) or quilted maple can wait for later.

I'll check out the Fine Woodworking boards. I didn't know they have any. Although I'm not really up to the "Fine Woodworking" level yet. Years away from that. But I'm working on it.

[joecarrow]

The point of the book matching is that it creates mirror symmetry of the wood grain. They do this for the front face of acoustic guitars, too. Definitely not easy, but your brain holds a strong relation between symmetry and beauty.

[Hank]

I like Tape-Ease as a veneer source. Check 'em out: http://www.tapeease.com/10_mil_%20veneer.htm

[Exocer]

What about these PE Veneers?

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=260-050

[Brian Bunge]

You could do the same thing with the paperbacked veneers that Hank linked to above. Just just apply wood glue to both surfaces, let it dry, and then iron it on. Not to mention that the PE veneer is over twice the price of Tape-Ease's red oak veneer. The PE stuff is $45 for a 2' x 8' sheet, whereas the Tape-Ease red oak is $30 for a 4' x 8' sheet. So that's double the veneer for 2/3 the cost of the PE veneer.

[Jim Holtz]

I’m looking for suggestions and photos of speakers on which people have used really nice veneer or wood and finishes. Can’t decide what I want to use. I guess cherry is the default. The only constraints I can think of are that this will be my first experience using veneer and I will have a 3/4” roundover on the left and right edges of the front baffles to go over. I’ve seen some stunning photos of wood or veneer on speakers here, but can’t seem to find them now. Just looking for something pretty. What veneer and what finish do you folks like? Thanks.

-Jon

My favorite veneer supplier is Oakwood. http://www.oakwoodveneer.com/

I use their BFV variety and *never* have problems with bubbling. The quality of the veneer is outstanding too. I tried another company that was less expensive on my last project and had bubbling problems. I'll not stray from Oakwood BFV veneers again. It very good stuff! :T

Jim

[Brian Bunge]

Jim,

I've used 10-mil paperbacked veneers exclusively for several years now with no bubbling problems. All I had to learn was that it was very important to let the contact cement outgas completely before applying the veneer to the cabinet. Once I did that, I haven't had a single problem.

[Jim Holtz]

Jim,

I've used 10-mil paperbacked veneers exclusively for several years now with no bubbling problems. All I had to learn was that it was very important to let the contact cement outgas completely before applying the veneer to the cabinet. Once I did that, I haven't had a single problem.

Hi Brian,

What kind of contact cement do you use? I used both 3M and DAP water based cement on the projects I did last winter rather than the smelly stuff since it was in the basement rather than out in the garage. I'm not sure whether the bubbles appeared from areas of 3M or DAP. I did lay the finish (water based) on heavy to get good flow in the area (top) that I had a problem with. The veneer is poly backed too.

Thanks for the feedback!

Jim

[Brian Bunge]

Jim,

I just used the DAP solvent-based stuff that I picked up from either HD or Lowe's. I've never used any water-based stuff as everything I've ever read suggested that it was not a good match for veneer. I know some people are buying professional quality water-based cement and using it with veneer without any problems, but I have not had the opportunity to use any of that either.

I'm thinking on my surrounds I'm going to try the iron on method with wood glue. We'll see how that goes.

[Jim Holtz]

Jim,

I just used the DAP solvent-based stuff that I picked up from either HD or Lowe's. I've never used any water-based stuff as everything I've ever read suggested that it was not a good match for veneer. I know some people are buying professional quality water-based cement and using it with veneer without any problems, but I have not had the opportunity to use any of that either.

I'm thinking on my surrounds I'm going to try the iron on method with wood glue. We'll see how that goes.

Hi Brian,

I've always used DAP solvent based too with good success until this winter when I was forced to the basement because of the cold weather. Water based was my only alternative at that point because of the solvent smell.

I think my issue was a combination of the different veneer and the fact that I'm using Crystalac as a finish. I love Crystalac but it does need to be flowed on pretty heavy in the final coats to get that gloss finish I was looking for. I think Oakwood BFV would have worked fine because of the way it's constructed. I have a project in mind for this winter so I'll see how things work out.

Jim

[Rudy D]

Jim,

I've used 10-mil paperbacked veneers exclusively for several years now with no bubbling problems. All I had to learn was that it was very important to let the contact cement outgas completely before applying the veneer to the cabinet. Once I did that, I haven't had a single problem.

Brian, what do you mean by "outgas"? are you talking about letting it dry completely? If so, how much time are we talking.

[Martyn]

No, I didn't even realize the photo veneer is book matched- that's how little I know about this. So do you cut it down the middle and then put the two pieces together? I'd think it easier to just start with one big piece. Probably more expensive, though.

....Do people just order veneer over the web, sight unseen?

....Although I'm not really up to the "Fine Woodworking" level yet. Years away from that. But I'm working on it.

For book-matching you clamp the two pieces together one on top of the other using a shop-made clamp, rough-trim the edge and then finish-trim using a router bit with a flush-cutting bearing. Your clamp must be dead straight or your join line will have gaps. You should be able to find conveniently sized pieces of veneer without the need to book-match. Aficionados will look to see whether the matching sides of your cabinets use matching sheets of veneer - another reason to start with something simple!

Many on-line veneer suppliers show photographs of the veneer stocks. Your local specialist hardwood stockist will probably keep some and might have samples of others that he can order for you.

I was an armchair woodworker for years - there's a lot you can learn in advance. I put a subscription to Fine Woodworking on my Christmas present list one year and struck lucky first time! If you're serious about getting into woodworking, Taunton Press publishes a four-volume set of woodworking books that is really excellent. Can't remember the titles off-hand.

For gluing, I'm not a fan of contact cement, although many others have had success. I built myself a vacuum press using an old laboratory vacuum pump - it worked like a hot damn (although I had an experienced woodworker show me how to build it). Without one, I'd probably choose the iron-on method. Whatever you choose, you'll save yourself lots of frustration by reading a book on the subject first. Have fun!

[Brian Bunge]

Rudy,

Yes. Even if the surface feels dry there still could be some of the gases trapped underneath which will work their way to the surface eventually. This is what causes bubbles if you don't let it dry enough. Basically, my dad and I found out that in low to moderate humidity we waited about 30 minutes to let the contact cement dry thoroughly. In high humidity we gave it at least 45 minutes to dry. Maybe even a little longer on really bad days. Since we started doing this we've had no problems with bubbling.

[JonW]

My favorite veneer supplier is Oakwood. http://www.oakwoodveneer.com/

I use their BFV variety and *never* have problems with bubbling. The quality of the veneer is outstanding too. I tried another company that was less expensive on my last project and had bubbling problems. I'll not stray from Oakwood BFV veneers again. It very good stuff! :T

Jim

Good, enthusiastic recommendation. I'll try them out. Thanks. :T
The prices don't look too bad. For one 4x8 sheet of the bubble free A grade maple, it's about $75. No idea what that would look look. That much veneer should be plenty (I'd think, at least) to do the 3 Modula MT's I'm planning as well as some practice. Anything else I should know about it?

Some other questions:

-What type of cement to use? The DAP solvent based stuff I can get locally sounds good, I guess. Is there any one, in particular I should get? And just apply some to each side (the wood and the veneer) and stick them together? Or wait for drying and then iron it? Or what?

-Do I need to buy anything to apply the glue to the veneer, like a special brush or something?

-I need some sort of roller, correct? Any one you guys like?

-So what finish to put over the veneer?

-Any basic books on this to recommend?

-Anything else I should know before I mess things up too badly?

[JonW]

Thanks for the info.

For book-matching you clamp the two pieces together one on top of the other using a shop-made clamp, rough-trim the edge and then finish-trim using a router bit with a flush-cutting bearing. Your clamp must be dead straight or your join line will have gaps. You should be able to find conveniently sized pieces of veneer without the need to book-match. Aficionados will look to see whether the matching sides of your cabinets use matching sheets of veneer - another reason to start with something simple!

Interesting. Yeah, maybe I'd better keepit simple for my first outing. Maybe just a simple, high grade maple or cherry. I like both a lot.

Many on-line veneer suppliers show photographs of the veneer stocks. Your local specialist hardwood stockist will probably keep some and might have samples of others that he can order for you.

No local place here (small town) but maybe I can have one of the web places email me a few photos.

I was an armchair woodworker for years - there's a lot you can learn in advance. I put a subscription to Fine Woodworking on my Christmas present list one year and struck lucky first time! If you're serious about getting into woodworking, Taunton Press publishes a four-volume set of woodworking books that is really excellent. Can't remember the titles off-hand.

I just got my very first table saw, router, jig saw, and sander a few months back. Not sure how "serious" I am about all this. It'll be fun to learn. So far, I've really enjoyed what little I've done (subwoofer and some shelves). Now it's on to speakers, which I'm really looking forward to.

For gluing, I'm not a fan of contact cement, although many others have had success. I built myself a vacuum press using an old laboratory vacuum pump - it worked like a hot damn (although I had an experienced woodworker show me how to build it). Without one, I'd probably choose the iron-on method. Whatever you choose, you'll save yourself lots of frustration by reading a book on the subject first. Have fun!

Any books to recommend? If it will help, I'm all for reading ahead of time.

[Jim Holtz]

Good, enthusiastic recommendation. I'll try them out. Thanks. :T
The prices don't look too bad. For one 4x8 sheet of the bubble free A grade maple, it's about $75. No idea what that would look look. That much veneer should be plenty (I'd think, at least) to do the 3 Modula MT's I'm planning as well as some practice. Anything else I should know about it?

Some other questions:

-What type of cement to use? The DAP solvent based stuff I can get locally sounds good, I guess. Is there any one, in particular I should get? And just apply some to each side (the wood and the veneer) and stick them together? Or wait for drying and then iron it? Or what?

-Do I need to buy anything to apply the glue to the veneer, like a special brush or something?

-I need some sort of roller, correct? Any one you guys like?

-So what finish to put over the veneer?

-Any basic books on this to recommend?

-Anything else I should know before I mess things up too badly?

Jon,

I'm a very novice wood worker so I hope other pop in with suggestions. Brian gave some great advice a couple posts up. Anyway, I use DAP solvent based when ever possible. It is smelly though so outside in a well ventilated area is a prerequisite. I put two coats of contact cement on both the MDF and the veneer letting each coat dry throughly between coats. Carefully place the veneer on the surface. It won't move once it touches! Then use a veneer scraper to seal the two surfaces together using lots of pressure.

Here's a link to a lot of great veneer installation tips at the Oakwood website. http://www.oakwoodveneer.com/tips.html

The BFV veneer at Oakwood is excellent. I think you'll like it.

HTH

Jim