fwrigley's Natalie P build - in process

Collapse
This topic is closed.
X
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • fwrigley
    Junior Member
    • Dec 2009
    • 21

    fwrigley's Natalie P build - in process

    Well, I have been working on this build for about two months now. It has been a series of firsts for me since I have only previously built a 20" cube sealed subwoofer. First time using a radial arm saw, first time using a router, etc. So far it has been a lot of fun with only a few mishaps (MDF being the victim).

    I started by spending a good afternoon making test cuts on pieces of scrap plywood to make sure the saw cut square. Once I felt comfortable with that I went and began ripping the sheets of MDF to size. I figured with my girlfriend's help we would have no problem doing full length rip cuts using my radial arm saw (wrong! - mishap #1). It turned out to be a little awkward and the saw blade actually became bound about 1/4 of the way through the cut. I gave up on that and just decided to make the long cuts with a circular saw and a 8' fence piece. This worked better, and since I made all the cuts with 1/2" excess it didn't matter much that I didn't set the baseplate of the circular saw at a 90 to the blade (mishap #2). I squared everything up on the radial saw and left 1/4" excess on one side of the baffle and the top piece that would be flush trimmed later.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0263.JPG
Views:	775
Size:	95.9 KB
ID:	870168

    I then went ahead and used my new Hitachi plunge router and Jasper circle jig to cut all of the speaker openings. I was pretty happy with the outcome at the time, but I will go into this a little further later (hint: mishap #3).

    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0264.JPG
Views:	575
Size:	69.2 KB
ID:	870169

    I then transferred the holes to the inner baffle piece using a flush trim bit and did a 45 degree chamfer on the backside. No problems here. Hopefully this will help the woofer breathe. 8)

    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0271.JPG
Views:	570
Size:	62.2 KB
ID:	870170

    Finally I used various hole saws and a 45 degree chamfer bit to create the mid brace. This along with some 1.5" wide pieces of pine will brace the cabinet. By the way... R.I.P. 2 1/2" hole saw from Lowes. MDF along with my woodworking skills seems to spell quick death for these things.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0265.JPG
Views:	573
Size:	70.5 KB
ID:	870171

    Continued... :T
    Last edited by theSven; 14 May 2023, 17:09 Sunday. Reason: Update image location
  • fwrigley
    Junior Member
    • Dec 2009
    • 21

    #2
    Crossovers

    At this point I took a break from the woodworking portion of it and decided to build the crossovers. I took two quarters of electrical circuits in college, so this wasn't too out of ordinary for me. One thing I did do is go out and get a Weller soldering iron to replace my Radio Shack one. It was a night and day difference.

    When I started the build I wanted to build a box without a removable baffle, so I built the crossovers on boards small enough to fit through the woofer holes. Don't worry, even though there are two boards per crossover they maintain the correct connections between the two boards as if they were on a single board. Since then I have decided to make the baffle removable, so it is somewhat of a mute point.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0256-1.JPG
Views:	556
Size:	94.6 KB
ID:	854015

    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0259-1.JPG
Views:	567
Size:	95.6 KB
ID:	854016

    Continued... :twisted:
    Last edited by theSven; 14 May 2023, 17:10 Sunday. Reason: Update image location

    Comment

    • fwrigley
      Junior Member
      • Dec 2009
      • 21

      #3
      Back to the box

      Back to the box construction; I decided to dry fit everything to make sure I wasn't too far off anywhere.

      Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0273.JPG
Views:	558
Size:	55.6 KB
ID:	854017

      Everything came together beautifully!

      Pictures from the bottom of the box where the port will be located. I did a 45 degree chamfer around the hole to help me flush mount it. A roundover might have worked better, but I don't have a roundover bit at this point.

      Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0276.JPG
Views:	570
Size:	68.1 KB
ID:	854018

      Finally, on to the aforementioned mishap Blogs I decided to throw one of the woofers into the baffle to show my girlfriend about what it would look like. The woofer fit snug in the first cutout.

      Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0281.JPG
Views:	557
Size:	55.5 KB
ID:	854019

      Not so much the second...

      Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0283.JPG
Views:	562
Size:	61.0 KB
ID:	854020

      I am not sure what I did here, must have been 1/8" off when I selected the hole on the Jasper jig. Three of the four holes have this problem. :scratchhead:

      To fix the problem I went out and got some DAP Plastic Wood. It is a solvent based wood filler that I plan to fill the gap with.

      Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0284.JPG
Views:	578
Size:	79.3 KB
ID:	854021

      It may turn out to be mishap #4, but my plan is to locate the woofer centered in the cutout, apply blue painters tape to the surround, then build up 1-2 layers of electrical tape on top of that. The remaining gap will be filled with the plastic wood material. Once cured I should be able to pop the woofer out (hopefully the ring of filler material stays) and touch it up with some sandpaper. Worst case, I'll have to redo both baffles.

      I am going to tackle this project tomorrow morning. I'll post and update with how it turns out.
      Last edited by theSven; 14 May 2023, 17:10 Sunday. Reason: Update image location

      Comment

      • ---k---
        Ultra Senior Member
        • Nov 2005
        • 5204

        #4
        Looking good so far! :T

        Only three mistakes so far? Not to bad.

        Yeah, my hole saw quickly died also. We probably have the same one from Lowes.

        I also picked up a Weller soldering gun last weekend. I agree. It worked great compared to my old cheap soldering station.
        - Ryan

        CJD Ochocinco! ND140/BC25SC06 MTM & TM
        CJD Khanspires - A Dayton RS28/RS150/RS225 WMTMW
        CJD Khancenter - A Dayton RS28/RS150/RS180 WTMW Center

        Comment

        • bbcmp1979
          Senior Member
          • Dec 2009
          • 173

          #5
          fwigley, that is one quick work you did there. I feel slowwww!!!!

          Comment

          • fwrigley
            Junior Member
            • Dec 2009
            • 21

            #6
            Originally posted by bbcmp1979
            fwigley, that is one quick work you did there. I feel slowwww!!!!
            There were times when I would go days without touching the project. Luckily I can devote a couple hours to it every night without any distractions.

            Comment

            • bbcmp1979
              Senior Member
              • Dec 2009
              • 173

              #7
              great progress by the way!!! :-).. Oregon is just too cold for me today.

              Comment

              • evilskillit
                Senior Member
                • Oct 2008
                • 468

                #8
                Large hole saws are so expensive and wear out quickly in my experience. You might look into getting some big paddle bits or forstner bits from a place like MLCS. It might cost a bit more up front but should work better and last a lot longer I think. Thats what I plan on doing

                Comment

                • Dean100
                  Senior Member
                  • Jan 2007
                  • 140

                  #9
                  Great work so far. :T Jon has documented this design so well that it makes it fairly easy to get good results for the first time builder. Just wait until you hear them, your jaw will drop.

                  Comment

                  • fwrigley
                    Junior Member
                    • Dec 2009
                    • 21

                    #10
                    I think I was able to save both baffles using some thin strips of MDF. I'll post some pictures in about an hour once the glue dries. 8)

                    Comment

                    • fwrigley
                      Junior Member
                      • Dec 2009
                      • 21

                      #11
                      Success. Both baffles were saved using MDF and wood glue by using the drivers to apply pressure to the MDF strips.

                      Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0289.JPG
Views:	459
Size:	50.5 KB
ID:	854024

                      Here is a picture of the baffle I repaired last night. It still needs some additional filler.

                      Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0288.JPG
Views:	447
Size:	46.2 KB
ID:	854025
                      Last edited by theSven; 14 May 2023, 17:12 Sunday. Reason: Update image location

                      Comment

                      • bd1000
                        Member
                        • Nov 2009
                        • 49

                        #12
                        How bad is it to have a small gap in your flush mount? Mine has a small gap but I wanted a little bit of clearance for when I paint mine.

                        Lookin good!

                        Comment

                        • fwrigley
                          Junior Member
                          • Dec 2009
                          • 21

                          #13
                          Originally posted by bd1000
                          How bad is it to have a small gap in your flush mount? Mine has a small gap but I wanted a little bit of clearance for when I paint mine.

                          Lookin good!
                          What type of paint are you planning on using?

                          My gap was about 1/16th around the entire cutout. The main reason I went to the trouble of filling it in was because the two cutouts were different. If they were both snug or both 1/8th larger I think it would have been fine. If you paint the baffle it will fill some of it in anyway. I am undecided at this point whether I am going to paint or veneer the front.

                          Comment

                          • bd1000
                            Member
                            • Nov 2009
                            • 49

                            #14
                            Originally posted by fwrigley
                            What type of paint are you planning on using?

                            My gap was about 1/16th around the entire cutout. The main reason I went to the trouble of filling it in was because the two cutouts were different. If they were both snug or both 1/8th larger I think it would have been fine. If you paint the baffle it will fill some of it in anyway. I am undecided at this point whether I am going to paint or veneer the front.
                            Ah, I see. When I routed mine for some reason they came out a little too tight and I had to go back and enlarge the diameter just a little bit, so I went over just a hair. I wasn't sure if a gap there would be bad for the sound but I assume it would be trivial.

                            I like the look of opt-e's finish; I like black paint so I was going to try and follow his primer/paint combo using a roller.

                            Comment

                            • 1Michael
                              Senior Member
                              • Sep 2006
                              • 293

                              #15
                              I have found that putting the finish on the baffle before routing the holes makes things a lot easier because you don't have all the finish going into the cutout area. I put on one final coat after doing the router work.
                              Michael
                              Chesapeake Va.

                              Comment

                              • fwrigley
                                Junior Member
                                • Dec 2009
                                • 21

                                #16
                                Insulation

                                Tonight I added OC703 insulation to the boxes. 2" thick on the backwall, 1" thick on all others. I wrapped the braces in wool felt. I am not sure this will do much, but since I had some laying around I figured it wouldn't hurt. From doing a tap test the wool felt does attenuate the sound somewhat.

                                Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0295.JPG
Views:	323
Size:	56.6 KB
ID:	854056

                                Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0296.JPG
Views:	319
Size:	51.8 KB
ID:	854057

                                Once that was done I glued the top of the box on. I left a little excess on each edge and will flush trim it later.

                                Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0298.JPG
Views:	321
Size:	58.1 KB
ID:	854058
                                Last edited by theSven; 14 May 2023, 17:12 Sunday. Reason: Update image location

                                Comment

                                • fwrigley
                                  Junior Member
                                  • Dec 2009
                                  • 21

                                  #17
                                  Originally posted by buggers
                                  I have found that putting the finish on the baffle before routing the holes makes things a lot easier because you don't have all the finish going into the cutout area. I put on one final coat after doing the router work.
                                  Thanks for the tip buggers. I'll have to spend some extra effort masking off the cutouts for sure.

                                  Comment

                                  Working...
                                  Searching...Please wait.
                                  An unexpected error was returned: 'Your submission could not be processed because you have logged in since the previous page was loaded.

                                  Please push the back button and reload the previous window.'
                                  An unexpected error was returned: 'Your submission could not be processed because the token has expired.

                                  Please push the back button and reload the previous window.'
                                  An internal error has occurred and the module cannot be displayed.
                                  There are no results that meet this criteria.
                                  Search Result for "|||"