Subwoofer build help needed.......

[slayer]

Been a long while since I've been to this site. Hoping I can get some help designing a few subs I plan to build soon.
1st is a Sonotube sub. Many years ago, close to 10 years now, I built a 3CuFt sealed enclosure for a 15" sub. Well, that sub is still rocking! But it just doesn't blend with my mains well and doesn't play quite as low as I want. So I want to build a Sonotube enclosure for it and transplant the driver over to use for my LFE channel. Mainly movie watching.
I have all the specs of the driver so hoping someone who has either the knowledge or software to tell me what size enclosure I need to build and port size and so forth.

2nd is similar. I have two 10" subs I've held onto for around the same 10 years. Been saving them for a car but decided I want to build some matching subs for the house mainly for music. Again, I have the specs for these subs as well so hoping someone can help me design them so they will be musical subs.

The 15" is a Diamond Audio TDX and the 10's are Diamond Audio MacDaddy's.
I will post pics and specs if someone is willing to help. Thanks.

[slayer]

Anyone? Just hoping someone might have the software to run my subs specs through and tell me what enclosures I should build for them.

[---k---]

Post the specs. I'll see if I can find the time in between work, sleep and chasing a sick 8 month old around.
You should give modeling a try. It really isn't that hard to model a subwoofer. Hardest part just typing the data in. I like Unibox:
http://audio.claub.net/software/kougaard/ubmodel.html Other's use WinISD. Jeff Bagby's Woofer Box supposedly is really good, but I haven't used it yet. http://audio.claub.net/software/jbabgy/WBCD.html
But, if you input the numbers and post your models, it is a lot easier for us to provide comments on.

[slayer]

I looked at the second one and it runs off Office and I don't have it on my laptop. Not sure what the other runs off. Or if I would even know wtf I was doing. lol
I will post up the sub info. Thanks for the reply.

[slayer]

OK. The first sub is a Diamond Audio TDX 15". Dual 2ohm. Neodymium motor.
I built a 3cuft sealed enclosure for it about 7 or 8 years ago. It's still going strong.
Would like to build a sonotube enclosure for it. Have it tuned as low as possible.
Or if it is better suited for sealed, then what size?
Specs......
SPL-88.5
Qms-3.8
Qes-0.52
Qts-0.49
Fs (Hz)24
Vas (L)-85
Cms-0.095
Mms-465
Sd (M2)-0.0785
Bl (T.M)-22.3
Re (ohm)-3.85
Xmax (mm)-26
Znom (series)-4

This is when I first built it. 06' I think.

[slayer]

Next up is a pair of 10" Diamond Audio Hex Series "MacDaddy" Dual 4ohm
Bought these for my truck and never used them. Been sitting in my closet forever. Have always wanted to use them for something.
Hoping these could be used for good musical subs to blend with my Veritas 2.2i's. More so for my music listening.
The above 15" for movie watching. Or maybe all 3 together ; )
Specs....
SPL-86
Qms-4.0
Qes-0.37
Qts-0..34
Fs (Hz)-30
Vas (L)-32
Cms- ......
Mms- ......
Sd (M2)-0.036
Bl (T.M)-22.5
Re (ohm)-6.1
Xmax (mm)-15
Znom (series)-.....

[---k---]

I took this time to learn Woofer Box Model and Circuit Designer.
Coming from Unibox, it was pretty easy. I prefer Unibox, because it has pull down menus for leaks, fill, and ports. But Woofer Box is easier to use to for amps and eq. Woofer Box is also nice because you can click a button to step the volume or tuning and instantly see the graph change. I think once Woofer Box is learned, it would be preferred.

So, I started with this kit box, just to make things easy.
http://www.diysoundgroup.com/ported-...be/cube15.html 113L, Tuned to 21 Hz. Looks pretty nice. Excursion isn't a problem with 500W, which makes me think something is wrong. But, this would be a good option. In room, this will pick up some room gain and really boost that low end. Probably a fun HT sub. With Diamond Audio being more a car company, I was surprised it modeled well, but it does.

Building your own, I would probably tune a little lower to get some more roll off. This does two things: 1) gives you some more of that subsonic fun. The stuff you can't hear, but shakes the room. 2) The roll off with match up with room gain better and hopefully be closer to flat. This would be 145L tuned to 16 hz using a 6" flared port 53" long.

There seemed to be lots of room in-between for size and tuning.

[slayer]

Thanks for taking the time to model the sub. Trying to read the graphs but not really seeing what I'm looking at. It doesn't show the freq on the bottom so it's hard to tell exactly what I'm looking at. If I'm reading it right, does it really start dropping off at 60hz?
Am I wasting my time with this sub? And I take it 145 Liters = 5.12062667 Cubic Ft
My plan was a Sonotube enclosure. It would be easy to wrap in a nice veneer for staining and really look nice in a corner.
Just not sure on the size and getting the port right. And if this driver is worth the trouble.
Did you bother modeling it in a 3cuft sealed enclosure? That is what I have lived with for a long time!!!

And the smaller 10" subs, was hoping for some small sonotube enclosures laying on their sides next to my front main speakers. Not sure if sealed or ported is best for these and if they are even worth it.

[---k---]

The black line is the sum of the driver + the port. It is a log graph. It starts at 10 hz, then goes 20, 30, 40, ...
The sub is darn near flat till 20 hz and feed with 500W does 110 db. Looks darn good to me. Sonotube is probably the best bet, because the 6" port is so long. There are lot of port calculators online.

I didn't model the sealed. But, take a look at the blue line in the graphs. That is the driver by itself. That will start to give you an idea of what the sealed looked like without doing the modeling.

[slayer]

Wow. So it sounds like it would be worth the time then.
Now if I can figure out how to calculate the sonotube. What I'm not sure of is what size tube to order. Diameter and length. So that the internal air space will end up right with both the driver and port installed. And how to construct the port tube so that it would be 6" x 53" and fit inside the sonotube!!!
Thanks for taking the time to do that. Really appreciate the help.

And if I can build this thing, what dsp do I need for it? To protect the driver that is. I use the Velodyne SMS-1. I can set the upper x-over point to match with my front speakers, then set the subsonic filter to protect the driver.
Plus all the eq settings.
And what will more power do to the modeling? I use a 1000w Velodyne class D plate amp right now.
May buy a different amp though. Have a Crown X1000 that is 600w bridged but can't use it with this sub as it won't do 4ohm bridged.

[slayer]

Any chance someone can model the 10"s for me? Those will be the first subs I build. Want those for my 2ch music listening. Will have one at the feet of each of my mains.
They are designed for small sealed enclosures but in an auto environment. Hoping someone can model the specs and see what would work best for home use. Thanks for the help.

10" Diamond Audio Hex Series "MacDaddy" Dual 4ohm
Hoping these could be used for good musical subs to blend with my Veritas 2.2i's. More so for my music listening.

Specs....
SPL-86
Qms-4.0
Qes-0.37
Qts-0..34
Fs (Hz)-30
Vas (L)-32
Cms- ......
Mms- ......
Sd (M2)-0.036
Bl (T.M)-22.5
Re (ohm)-6.1
Xmax (mm)-15
Znom (series)-.....

[slayer]

TTT

Hoping to get this project started soon. Want to place my order on the sonotube and get it here and start cutting the mdf.
Just need to know what airspace I need on these 10's and if they will be better suited in a sealed or ported enclosure.

[mackintire]

You'd have to confirm with Neo over on the AVS forums but your Diamond Audio TDX 15 looks like it would work for the "easy button max" which is a variant of the LLT without most of the problems. The easy button max usually is -3db around 15hz and full unloads around 12-13hz.

One of the better designs for a LLT EBS box if you ask me.