DIY Bookshelves

**Jonasz** · 15 January 2013, 14:49 Tuesday

These are a just over budget but look very interesting to me. A 10" is a "must" if you want good midbass! 8) I have had good luck with Seas drivers in the past so no worry there.

Seas A26 10" 2-way Kit Pair (based on the classic A25)

http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/2-way-speaker-kits/seas-a26-10-2-way-kit-pair-based-on-the-classic-a25/

Seas A26 10" 2-way Kit Pair - a new spin on a true classic! Price is for a PAIR Designed by Håvard Sollien & Diego Ivars at the SEAS R&D laboratory. Seas of Norway and Madisound are excited to provide the A26 speaker kit. This kit utilizes the A26RE4 10" classic paper cone woofer and new T35C-002 1.5" textile dome Excel line tweeter, in a 1 cubic foot aperiodic enclosure (12 3/16" W x 20 1/16" T x 10 1/4" D). Carefully designed drivers with complementary response characteristics allow for a crossover network using only two components. The classic 10" paper cone woofer is run full range and the tweeter is rolled off by a capacitor. The 10 ohm resistor can be adjusted to meet your listening preferences. We suggest using a bi-wire cup so that you can make the resistor adjustment outside of the cabinet, using the resistor as the jumper to the tweeter (-) terminal. 3 different resistor values are included with the kit. After spending several days with the A26 during its debut at the Rocky Mountain Audio Fest and later at Axpona in Chicago, we fell in love with the speaker. It has a very warm and comfortable sound, as you would expect from a driver combination like this. It is actually pretty true to the sound from the original A25, but with much better highs and slightly more dynamic overall presentation. The 1.5" dome Excel tweeter has no problem with the simple slope and low crossover point. Although people often talk about the extended highs of tweeters, often beyond the audible listening range, the true magic occurs in the lower frequencies and this tweeter excels in that range. The aperiodic loaded woofer and excellent roll off on the low end of the tweeter has resulted in a speaker with very good transient response. Pure, simple, and elegant. Link to Seas A26 Application Notes   Each A26 Speaker Kit Includes: (2) Seas Prestige A26RE4 10" Classic Paper Cone Woofer (2) Seas Excel T35C-002 1.5" Textile Dome Tweeter (2) Mundorf M-Cap Supreme 3.3 mfd Capacitor (6) Mundorf M-Resist MOX Resistors - 8.2, 10.0, & 12 ohm (0.22 lb) Acousta-Stuf  - 0.11 lb fluffed and filled in each cabinet (2) Acoustic Foam Piece for Aperiodic Vent (20) OXSOCKET8X1 Socket Head Wood Screws (7 ft) Supra Classic 1.6 Internal Hookup Wire - 18" for woofer, 22" for tweeter (8) QC187 Quick Connects  (4) WBT Copper Crimp Sleeves - for installing cap in + line of tweeter (1) Acoustic Foam Sheet - line internal walls of cabinet (8ft) Foam Tape - for airtight seal of drivers to baffle   Optional Items From Drop Down Menus: (2) Pre-finished Cherry Cabinets (as pictured) w/ TD-CUP input cups included (2) Input Cups - or - (4) Binding Posts - if not purchasing cabinets Alternative Capacitor Options   All kit pricing shown includes at least a 10% discount on all drivers, parts, and cabinets!   Beautifully Simple Crossover Network For the kit we use the Mundorf Supreme capacitor for its low distortion and musicality.  The crossover closely follows the original A25 design, and is a model of simplicity. The use of linear drivers with complementary roll off characteristics allows for excellent performance  without the need for complex filter networks. The well behaved roll off of the woofer’s paper cone, aided by the four layer voice coil, allows it to be connected directly to the amplifier, just as in the original. The tweeter is easily matched to the woofer using a first order network; consisting of a single capacitor (3.3μF), along with a series resistor (10) for level matching. The resistor value can be adjusted to fine tune the tweeter level (12, 10 or 8.2).  Tweeter Level Options We recommend using the the TD-CUP dual binding post input cup for ease of tweeter level adjustment. Wire the tweeter to the top set and the woofer to the bottom set. Remove the (-) strap between the top and bottom binding posts, and insert the resistor in its place, and tighten down the binding posts. This will allow you to swap resistor values to taste without having to open up the cabinet to make those changes. Run your speaker wire from the amplifer to the bottom set of binding posts. Seas Prestige A26RE4 Woofer A classical paper cone and matching natural rubber surround produce a smooth response and reduces potential resonance problems. A four layer voice coil provides a well behaved roll off characteristic. The magnet system has a T-shaped cross section of the pole piece for low modulation distortion. Extremely stiff and stable injection moulded metal basket keeps the critical components in perfect alignment. Large windows in the basket both above and below the spider reduce sound refl exion, air fl ow noise and cavity resonance to a minimum. Woofer Curve Seas Excel T35C-002 Tweeter The T35C002 is a classic dome midrange tweeter with high sensitivity and a smooth, extended frequency response. A coated fabric dome with integral surround manufactured by Dr. K. Müller in Germany ensures excellent performance and consistency. This supplier was among the first in the world to offer fabric dome diaphragms, and did produce the diaphragm for the famous 1.5” Dome Tweeter H087, developed by Seas in 1968 for the Dynaco A25 speaker. A small, high efficiency Neodymium ring magnet in a carefully designed system contributes to high sensitivity and low distortion. The top plate and T-yoke are CNC machined for excellent precision. A well damped vented pole and a rigid rear chamber ensure a low resonance frequency and smooth response.A generously underhung 35mm voice coil wound from copper-clad aluminum wire further enhances the sensitivity. Flexible lead-out wires and venting holes in the aluminum coil former help reduce noise to a minimum. A 7 mm thick precision machined aluminum front plate with moderate horn loading ensures linear frequency response and represents an extremely stable platform for the magnet system and the moving parts. Tweeter Curve   The Enclosure Design and Stuffing The SEAS A26 loudspeaker is based on a 28-liter cabinet. Position of the drivers and dimensions of the cabinet walls and vent opening are all very similar to those of the original Dynaco A25. For best performance, these dimensions should be followed closely. Adding internal bracing to stiffen the cabinet is a good idea for the advanced builder, and will further enhance the performance. The cabinet stuffing (50g) is distributed evenly inside the box. The highly damped vent acts as an acoustic resistor, resulting in a non-resonant (aperiodic) system. The quantity of polyfill stuffing used in the vent is 12 grams. We suggest mounting a piece of screening material over both sides of the vent to hold the stuffing in place. Decreasing the vent stuffing will improve the time response of the bass system, but will lower the bass output due to the lowered Q. If, on the contrary, more polyfill stuffing is used, the enclosure will behave closer to a sealed box and a higher Q will be obtained. However, the time response will be slightly deteriorated. We find 12 grams of polyfill to achieve the best balance between the time and frequency performance of the bass system. This amount of stuffing is based on measurements and extensive listening tests. The result is a smooth, yet detailed reproduction where the entire frequency range is in balance. We encourage you to follow the above guidelines, but you may also try experimenting with the stuffing quantities yourself, to achieve your preferred bass performance. (Madisound uses a strip of acoustic foam instead of the fill, and the speaker measured and sounds the same. At the RMAF show designer Diego Ivers also agreed that it was perfectly fine to use this material. Kits that we provide will be sent with the foam as it is much easier to use.) Madisound A26 Cabinets (optional) The Madisound A26 Cabinets are made in the USA and constructed of high quality MDF and finished with a real cherry wood. The only side not veneered is the back, which features an attractive piano black finish. The front baffle is cut for precise flush mounting of both the woofer and tweeter. The back side is cut for a precise flush mount of the TD-CUP dual binding post input cup. Also included are removable magnetic grill covers finished with a retro style white grill cloth. Cabinet Dimensions: 12 3/16" W x 20 1/16" T x 10 1/4" DLink to cabinet plans in inchesLink to cabinet plans in metricListening Room and PlacementHigh quality stands should be used to bring the tweeter approximately to ear level or slightly above. Even in the best listening room, it is important to determine the positions where the loudspeakers will perform optimally. Placing the cabinets too close to the walls or corners will result in more powerful bass, but may also cause response irregularities in the bass/midrange area. Some experimentation is recommended in order to find cabinet positions that result in a good tonal balance and freedom from coloration. The tweeter diaphragm is relatively large for sensitivity reasons. Consequently, the highest frequencies are more directional, making it worthwhile to experiment with toe-in of the enclosures towards the listening position. The SEAS A26 is a refined, yet simple and fun loudspeaker, meant for enjoying your music to its fullest! 

**JKB** · 15 January 2013, 19:50 Tuesday

That looks very nice. Until looking at the graphs on their website, I was thinking of trying to add a 4.5" or something to help bridge the 10" and tweeter, but it appeared to have no dead zone or "gap" between them.

As for the room size and amount of volume we're dealing with, do you feel like 2 - 10's is sufficient? Maybe design a cabinet with 2 in each? Perhaps an 8" and a 12" in each cab?

Just exploring some options and I definitely like the recommendation!

Originally posted by Jonasz

These are a just over budget but look very interesting to me. A 10" is a "must" if you want good midbass! 8) I have had good luck with Seas drivers in the past so no worry there.

Seas A26 10" 2-way Kit Pair (based on the classic A25)

http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/2-way-speaker-kits/seas-a26-10-2-way-kit-pair-based-on-the-classic-a25/

Seas A26 10" 2-way Kit Pair - a new spin on a true classic! Price is for a PAIR Designed by Håvard Sollien & Diego Ivars at the SEAS R&D laboratory. Seas of Norway and Madisound are excited to provide the A26 speaker kit. This kit utilizes the A26RE4 10" classic paper cone woofer and new T35C-002 1.5" textile dome Excel line tweeter, in a 1 cubic foot aperiodic enclosure (12 3/16" W x 20 1/16" T x 10 1/4" D). Carefully designed drivers with complementary response characteristics allow for a crossover network using only two components. The classic 10" paper cone woofer is run full range and the tweeter is rolled off by a capacitor. The 10 ohm resistor can be adjusted to meet your listening preferences. We suggest using a bi-wire cup so that you can make the resistor adjustment outside of the cabinet, using the resistor as the jumper to the tweeter (-) terminal. 3 different resistor values are included with the kit. After spending several days with the A26 during its debut at the Rocky Mountain Audio Fest and later at Axpona in Chicago, we fell in love with the speaker. It has a very warm and comfortable sound, as you would expect from a driver combination like this. It is actually pretty true to the sound from the original A25, but with much better highs and slightly more dynamic overall presentation. The 1.5" dome Excel tweeter has no problem with the simple slope and low crossover point. Although people often talk about the extended highs of tweeters, often beyond the audible listening range, the true magic occurs in the lower frequencies and this tweeter excels in that range. The aperiodic loaded woofer and excellent roll off on the low end of the tweeter has resulted in a speaker with very good transient response. Pure, simple, and elegant. Link to Seas A26 Application Notes   Each A26 Speaker Kit Includes: (2) Seas Prestige A26RE4 10" Classic Paper Cone Woofer (2) Seas Excel T35C-002 1.5" Textile Dome Tweeter (2) Mundorf M-Cap Supreme 3.3 mfd Capacitor (6) Mundorf M-Resist MOX Resistors - 8.2, 10.0, & 12 ohm (0.22 lb) Acousta-Stuf  - 0.11 lb fluffed and filled in each cabinet (2) Acoustic Foam Piece for Aperiodic Vent (20) OXSOCKET8X1 Socket Head Wood Screws (7 ft) Supra Classic 1.6 Internal Hookup Wire - 18" for woofer, 22" for tweeter (8) QC187 Quick Connects  (4) WBT Copper Crimp Sleeves - for installing cap in + line of tweeter (1) Acoustic Foam Sheet - line internal walls of cabinet (8ft) Foam Tape - for airtight seal of drivers to baffle   Optional Items From Drop Down Menus: (2) Pre-finished Cherry Cabinets (as pictured) w/ TD-CUP input cups included (2) Input Cups - or - (4) Binding Posts - if not purchasing cabinets Alternative Capacitor Options   All kit pricing shown includes at least a 10% discount on all drivers, parts, and cabinets!   Beautifully Simple Crossover Network For the kit we use the Mundorf Supreme capacitor for its low distortion and musicality.  The crossover closely follows the original A25 design, and is a model of simplicity. The use of linear drivers with complementary roll off characteristics allows for excellent performance  without the need for complex filter networks. The well behaved roll off of the woofer’s paper cone, aided by the four layer voice coil, allows it to be connected directly to the amplifier, just as in the original. The tweeter is easily matched to the woofer using a first order network; consisting of a single capacitor (3.3μF), along with a series resistor (10) for level matching. The resistor value can be adjusted to fine tune the tweeter level (12, 10 or 8.2).  Tweeter Level Options We recommend using the the TD-CUP dual binding post input cup for ease of tweeter level adjustment. Wire the tweeter to the top set and the woofer to the bottom set. Remove the (-) strap between the top and bottom binding posts, and insert the resistor in its place, and tighten down the binding posts. This will allow you to swap resistor values to taste without having to open up the cabinet to make those changes. Run your speaker wire from the amplifer to the bottom set of binding posts. Seas Prestige A26RE4 Woofer A classical paper cone and matching natural rubber surround produce a smooth response and reduces potential resonance problems. A four layer voice coil provides a well behaved roll off characteristic. The magnet system has a T-shaped cross section of the pole piece for low modulation distortion. Extremely stiff and stable injection moulded metal basket keeps the critical components in perfect alignment. Large windows in the basket both above and below the spider reduce sound refl exion, air fl ow noise and cavity resonance to a minimum. Woofer Curve Seas Excel T35C-002 Tweeter The T35C002 is a classic dome midrange tweeter with high sensitivity and a smooth, extended frequency response. A coated fabric dome with integral surround manufactured by Dr. K. Müller in Germany ensures excellent performance and consistency. This supplier was among the first in the world to offer fabric dome diaphragms, and did produce the diaphragm for the famous 1.5” Dome Tweeter H087, developed by Seas in 1968 for the Dynaco A25 speaker. A small, high efficiency Neodymium ring magnet in a carefully designed system contributes to high sensitivity and low distortion. The top plate and T-yoke are CNC machined for excellent precision. A well damped vented pole and a rigid rear chamber ensure a low resonance frequency and smooth response.A generously underhung 35mm voice coil wound from copper-clad aluminum wire further enhances the sensitivity. Flexible lead-out wires and venting holes in the aluminum coil former help reduce noise to a minimum. A 7 mm thick precision machined aluminum front plate with moderate horn loading ensures linear frequency response and represents an extremely stable platform for the magnet system and the moving parts. Tweeter Curve   The Enclosure Design and Stuffing The SEAS A26 loudspeaker is based on a 28-liter cabinet. Position of the drivers and dimensions of the cabinet walls and vent opening are all very similar to those of the original Dynaco A25. For best performance, these dimensions should be followed closely. Adding internal bracing to stiffen the cabinet is a good idea for the advanced builder, and will further enhance the performance. The cabinet stuffing (50g) is distributed evenly inside the box. The highly damped vent acts as an acoustic resistor, resulting in a non-resonant (aperiodic) system. The quantity of polyfill stuffing used in the vent is 12 grams. We suggest mounting a piece of screening material over both sides of the vent to hold the stuffing in place. Decreasing the vent stuffing will improve the time response of the bass system, but will lower the bass output due to the lowered Q. If, on the contrary, more polyfill stuffing is used, the enclosure will behave closer to a sealed box and a higher Q will be obtained. However, the time response will be slightly deteriorated. We find 12 grams of polyfill to achieve the best balance between the time and frequency performance of the bass system. This amount of stuffing is based on measurements and extensive listening tests. The result is a smooth, yet detailed reproduction where the entire frequency range is in balance. We encourage you to follow the above guidelines, but you may also try experimenting with the stuffing quantities yourself, to achieve your preferred bass performance. (Madisound uses a strip of acoustic foam instead of the fill, and the speaker measured and sounds the same. At the RMAF show designer Diego Ivers also agreed that it was perfectly fine to use this material. Kits that we provide will be sent with the foam as it is much easier to use.) Madisound A26 Cabinets (optional) The Madisound A26 Cabinets are made in the USA and constructed of high quality MDF and finished with a real cherry wood. The only side not veneered is the back, which features an attractive piano black finish. The front baffle is cut for precise flush mounting of both the woofer and tweeter. The back side is cut for a precise flush mount of the TD-CUP dual binding post input cup. Also included are removable magnetic grill covers finished with a retro style white grill cloth. Cabinet Dimensions: 12 3/16" W x 20 1/16" T x 10 1/4" DLink to cabinet plans in inchesLink to cabinet plans in metricListening Room and PlacementHigh quality stands should be used to bring the tweeter approximately to ear level or slightly above. Even in the best listening room, it is important to determine the positions where the loudspeakers will perform optimally. Placing the cabinets too close to the walls or corners will result in more powerful bass, but may also cause response irregularities in the bass/midrange area. Some experimentation is recommended in order to find cabinet positions that result in a good tonal balance and freedom from coloration. The tweeter diaphragm is relatively large for sensitivity reasons. Consequently, the highest frequencies are more directional, making it worthwhile to experiment with toe-in of the enclosures towards the listening position. The SEAS A26 is a refined, yet simple and fun loudspeaker, meant for enjoying your music to its fullest! 

**Riley212** · 16 January 2013, 02:16 Wednesday

It is going to be difficult to find an existing speaker project that is 1- as big as what you are talking about and 2- is a "bookshelf" type design.

I think a 3 way bookshelf with a 8 inch bass would fill your room with rockin sound no problem. I have built these http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/3WClassic.htm They are nice and can play very loud with a small amp. excellent drivers with low distortion, just lacking in the low bass(Sub 50 hz)

this also might be a good design and a little cheaper, http://speakerdesignworks.com/Finalists_1.html, probably has better low bass and just as good mids/highs as the 2 way classics, but are a bit less efficient. If you have a 100 watt amp that is no issue.

there are also quite a few MTM designs that might get you what you want
all of the kits on these websites will sound good
http://meniscusaudio.com/kits-c-133.html?page=1&sort=3a
http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/speaker-kits/

**oneplustwo** · 16 January 2013, 16:48 Wednesday

Another option if you want a large two way is Markk's RS225/28A. Joeybutts did a build thread not too long ago.

**JKB** · 16 January 2013, 17:35 Wednesday

Yeah, I figured it may end up being a unique build. I don't mind doing a little trial and error with box size, placement, etc to make it sound right. I suppose in some ways I could build a type of shorter floor speaker and lay it on its side on the bookshelves. It just needs to fit within the width of the cabinet styles. I don't remember the width off the top of my head, but I'd say 40 something inches probably. I'll measure when I get home.

If I go that route and just plan to fill the space left to right, what would be some good driver recommendations? And trying to explore the best overall option and given the potential additional space, would it be better to go with multiple lower cost drivers?

I don't mind just jumping in and buying some equipment and throwing a couple boxes together to see how the sound fills the space and decide if I want to add more in a larger enclosure or not, but I'd at least like to start off with the most appropriate choice and be able to add to the equipment if needed and not just end up with a pile of unused equipment.

Thanks a lot for the help and patience guys!

Originally posted by Riley212

It is going to be difficult to find an existing speaker project that is 1- as big as what you are talking about and 2- is a "bookshelf" type design.

I think a 3 way bookshelf with a 8 inch bass would fill your room with rockin sound no problem. I have built these http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/3WClassic.htm They are nice and can play very loud with a small amp. excellent drivers with low distortion, just lacking in the low bass(Sub 50 hz)

this also might be a good design and a little cheaper, http://speakerdesignworks.com/Finalists_1.html, probably has better low bass and just as good mids/highs as the 2 way classics, but are a bit less efficient. If you have a 100 watt amp that is no issue.

there are also quite a few MTM designs that might get you what you want
all of the kits on these websites will sound good
http://meniscusaudio.com/kits-c-133.html?page=1&sort=3a
http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/speaker-kits/

**oneplustwo** · 16 January 2013, 17:58 Wednesday

Laying a floorstanding speaker on it's side may not work well. It would have been designed to be used vertically. However, you can build three identical center channels. There a quite a few to choose from here. Zaph ZDT. The statement series has one (although not a great fit for your situation). There are several others in the completed designs thread.

I would pick a completed design that has flexibility in the crossover for placement with reduced baffle step correction. The Zaph ZA series is another option with that flexibility.

**Riley212** · 16 January 2013, 21:17 Wednesday

I guess that wasn't clear to me either that you wanted to pu them in between the shelves.

The problem with laying speakers on their side is that you off axis response lobe-ing; places off axis where the sound from each driver cancel themselves out. This is why speakers are designed with the drivers vertically aligned, so that the lobe-ing only exists in the vertical axis which doesn't change more than 15 deg or so as you move around the room.

As Oneplustwo stated; building a pair of center channels might work best

center channels- http://speakerdesignworks.com/Statements_Center_Channel.html
http://meniscusaudio.com/swope-center-p-1335.html

Madisound - Page Not Found

http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/mtm-speaker-kits/zaph%7Caudio-za5.3c-center-channel-single-with-cabinet/

This page has been removed, but Madisound has thousands of loudspeaker parts. Contact us today at info@madisound.com.

**JKB** · 17 January 2013, 02:32 Thursday

Thanks, that's exactly why I started this thread so I can get some guidance in hopefully creating something that satisfies my desired requirements the 1st time and make it a fun DIY project. And nothing is at all set in stone. I'm just trying to keep an open mind and think "out of the box" where possible to help come up with the best combination of looks and sound with my given situation.

I have a couple of the largest 5+ yr old yamaha towers in my garage with 2 - 8" (might be 10") subs and to me having that type of sound in the family room would be great. I primarily listen to older music, classic rock, etc which is why I really want great midbass. My wife prefers the newer stuff, mostly dance/hip hop so she wants a little more bass than what I have out there. Plus she won't let me put a tower speaker in front of the cabinets b/c it "doesn't belong there" and she's right... When I get the subs set up, I suppose I'll need them to play deeper than whats in the garage which is why I'm trying to get more mid out of the bookshelf speakers themselves than what I have in the yamaha towers.

The 3 center channel idea certainly fits with the direction I had in mind.

Based on what I'm wanting to get out of it and the variety of expectations that it will have, would you recommend one of the sealed or ported options?

**oneplustwo** · 17 January 2013, 13:07 Thursday

You'd probably want to go ported since you mentioned higher SPL and bass would be good to have on occasion. Worst case, you could always plug the port with some foam or a balled up sock. Also, I've realized over the years that the "quality" of the bass is often dictated largely by the recording itself. I think some engineers anticipate poor or bloomy bass and try to adjust for that in the recording. For those of us with equipment that stays true to the source, that often does not work out well. Another reason to have the flexibility sort of inherent in a ported enclosure. hdale5 did a sliding port on one of his recent designs you might be interested in if the concept is appealing to you.

**cjd** · 17 January 2013, 21:54 Thursday

You really need a 3-way to accomplish the bass extension and placement requirements you have; A 2.5-way *might* sneak under the radar as do-able.

Unfortunately, that makes the price point a lot trickier, since a 3-way is inevitably quite a bit more expensive in the crossover department.

You might be interested the In-Khan-neato design I did for Ryan - it's in-wall optimized, fills a room quite nicely (if you want it *really* loud, you will be wanting a sub) and might sneak in on the budget side. Slightly bigger brother can be found in the Khan-center.

C

**dlneubec** · 18 January 2013, 07:46 Friday

Originally posted by oneplustwo

You'd probably want to go ported since you mentioned higher SPL and bass would be good to have on occasion. Worst case, you could always plug the port with some foam or a balled up sock. Also, I've realized over the years that the "quality" of the bass is often dictated largely by the recording itself. I think some engineers anticipate poor or bloomy bass and try to adjust for that in the recording. For those of us with equipment that stays true to the source, that often does not work out well. Another reason to have the flexibility sort of inherent in a ported enclosure. hdale5 did a sliding port on one of his recent designs you might be interested in if the concept is appealing to you.

I'm not familiar with what Hdale might have done, but I implemented a "flexport" in my Chameleon design. It allows for the flexibility to go from sealed to ported at a variety of box tunings with the turn of a knob and sliding an adjustable panel in the bottom. You can see more about them in this thread:

The Chameleon's

**oneplustwo** · 18 January 2013, 12:25 Friday

Right speaker, wrong person. Sorry Dan! I can't keep all the great woodworking samples straight in my head!

**dlneubec** · 18 January 2013, 13:51 Friday

No need to aplogize! It's easy to get them confused, that's for sure.

**JKB** · 27 January 2013, 16:58 Sunday

Thanks for all the info guys. I've had all the links mentioned opened up in multiple tabs for the past week looking at the various options whenever I had some spare time.

After thinking through the options for my specific situation, I think the 3 - center channel speakers option would suit my needs best as it wouldn't even require adjusting the current spacing on the shelves.

I really liked the 3 way classic and chameleon setups and may need to do a set in my garage after I get this project completed!

As for the center channel options go, I'm most interested and somewhat torn between the Statements and the Swope...

Any particular reason you think I should pick one over the other? I'm sure either would sound great. I'd like to go ahead and order one or the other this evening so I can get rolling on the project next weekend!

**cjd** · 27 January 2013, 19:22 Sunday

Statements need to be out away from the wall... I think that eliminates that from the running.

**JKB** · 28 January 2013, 18:04 Monday

Originally posted by cjd

Statements need to be out away from the wall... I think that eliminates that from the running.

Well looks like that leaves me with the Swope setup unless there is a reason why I should reconsider that too?

If there isn't any reason to avoid the Swope setup, should I stick with the ND28 tweeter or go with the SB29RDNC? I haven't heard either so I'll just go with the suggestion from anyone who has or has knowledge of them.

Also, any reason to avoid having them assemble the crossovers? I have all the soldering equipment, I'm just trying to think of a way to save a little time and maybe do something a little fancier on the enclosure.

Thanks

**BeerParty** · 28 January 2013, 19:02 Monday

The Swope looks like it would be a good choice.

I see you started another thread for planning on a sub, is that going into the same room to be used with these speakers? If it is, you might be able to get away with a 2-way design to save some money. With a good sub the mains will not have to dig so low. There are several MTM designs that would work well on their sides.

**JKB** · 28 January 2013, 21:02 Monday

Thanks, and yes, its the same room.

I'll probably stick with the Swopes right now for a couple of reasons. 1 there is a ton of volume in the room and 2, I'd like to try them in my theater room as well. If I like them better than my older Mirage (better than their new line IMO) setup in the theater room, I may do what you're suggesting once I get the subs done.

I'm definitely not trying to just spend more money for the heck of spending money so I do appreciate the input and depending on how things unfold, might end up with what you're talking about in there.

DIY Bookshelves

DIY Bookshelves

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