Starting a Mini Statements build soon

[Drew_V]

New member here, both to the forums and to DIY speaker building. I have a rudimentary knowledge of woodworking and have renovated my entire basement into a home theater and adjoining spare room, so I'm not without skills. I will probably borrow most of the tools that I need for this project, so my resources are fairly limited. I'll probably have access to a hand router (no table), a circular saw, jigsaw, clamps, and various hand tools. I figure that'll be enough to get me by. I probably won't be starting the actual build until the weather gets a little warmer outside so that I can work in the garage (since I have no basement left anymore!). But I figure it can't hurt to do the research now and buy the components so that I can at least build the crossovers and get the plans laid out to make the process go as smoothly as possible later on.

I've read as many threads as I could find regarding the entire line of Statements and folks who have built them. However, I still have some questions, being new to speaker building and all. So without further adeiu, here they are:


1) How much power can the Minis handle?

2) Do I need to put gasket foam tape under the driver flanges? Does it matter if the drivers are slightly recessed or above flush at all? How closely do they have to be flush to the final veneer? (I'm planning on using a Lamin-Art product of approximately 0.028" thickness for the veneer.)

3) Can I use squared front corner edges rather than roundovers? This would help in finishing with the Lamin-art because it's not very flexible. I realize it has been stated that there is a difference, but would it really be audible?

4) What other miscellaneous hardware should I purchase up front from PartsExpress or Home Depot? I must need hardware like T-nuts, screws, etc. but I'm not sure exactly what to buy. I could get "kits" of mounting hardware, but I hesitate to buy extra junk if it's not necessary.

5) For the crossover drawings, why does it look like the wiring for the mid and tweeter is backwards (+ on the M/T is connected to - supply)?

6) The description of the construction of the base is that there is a 5-inch cutaway for port ventilation. However, the drawings (in the PDF) show a 4-inch cutaway. Does it matter?


I've never done veneer work at all, and starting with the Lamin-Art product is probably not the best induction into the world of veneering, but I really love the look of their products and the glossy finish is just too spectacular to pass up. These speakers will go into our formal living room area, so they have to look good as well as sound good, as they will be on display front and center.

I'm sure I'll have more questions as I start the build, but that might not be for some time yet. Until then, I'm open to any advice or building hints that anyone can offer. Thanks.

--Drew

[BeerParty]

Hi Drew, long time no see! :W

I'll probably have access to a hand router (no table), a circular saw, jigsaw, clamps, and various hand tools. I figure that'll be enough to get me by.

If at all possible, see if one of your friends has a table saw you can use. You can get by with a circular saw, but being able to set the fence on the table saw will make cutting accurately much easier. If you plan ahead you should be able to bang out most of the cuts on the table saw in less than a day, it might even be easier to take the wood to a friends place rather then bringing the saw to you.

[AdelaaR]

Hey there ... I too have recently started building the statements
The crossover schematics are very well made and cristal clear ... the midrange is in reverse phase so you have to wire the poles in an inverse fashion but the tweeter is wired straight though. Look at the small plus sign next to the drivers to make things clear.
I too have just the basic tools being a simple router and a simple circular saw ... I think that with a little inventivity and jigmaking those should suffice.
MDF is pretty soft material so anything should be able to cut it

[BeerParty]

Do I need to put gasket foam tape under the driver flanges? Does it matter if the drivers are slightly recessed or above flush at all? How closely do they have to be flush to the final veneer? (I'm planning on using a Lamin-Art product of approximately 0.028" thickness for the veneer.)

The drivers have foam on the rear of the flanges already. The design calls for the drives to be recessed so that the front of the drivers is flush with the front baffle. It doesn't have to be perfect (god knows mine isn't), but you should get it close.

There are several ways to get the recesses the correct depth for the driver flanges. If you don't know how, just ask and I'm sure everyone here would be very forthcoming with about 10 'best' ways to do this.

[BeerParty]

Can I use squared front corner edges rather than roundovers? This would help in finishing with the Lamin-art because it's not very flexible. I realize it has been stated that there is a difference, but would it really be audible?

If you don't want rounded front corners because of your veneer, you might want to try cutting the front edges at a 45 degree angle. While not as effective as a round-over, it should be better acoustically then square corners. But truthfully I don't know if it makes a difference, as I have never tried square corners on the front baffle.

[Drew_V]

The drivers have foam on the rear of the flanges already. The design calls for the drives to be recessed so that the front of the drivers is flush with the front baffle. It doesn't have to be perfect (god knows mine isn't), but you should get it close.

There are several ways to get the recesses the correct depth for the driver flanges. If you don't know how, just ask and I'm sure everyone here would be very forthcoming with about 10 'best' ways to do this.

If they need to be flush, then I'll account for the thickness of the veneer as well.

I assumed that the router can be adjusted to alter the depth of the recess, right?? I've never actually used a router, but it seems logical that this would be true.

Since I'll likely have the drivers and all the other materials before I start cutting wood, I'll be able to measure the thickness of the drivers and adjust the recess depth accordingly (including the veneer).

[Drew_V]

Hi Drew, long time no see! :W


If at all possible, see if one of your friends has a table saw you can use. You can get by with a circular saw, but being able to set the fence on the table saw will make cutting accurately much easier. If you plan ahead you should be able to bang out most of the cuts on the table saw in less than a day, it might even be easier to take the wood to a friends place rather then bringing the saw to you.

I've actually read some opinions that using a circular saw is easier for large pieces like 4x8 sheets. When I did the 3/4" OSB flooring for my basement, I used a circular saw and a jigsaw to make the cuts and it worked great. I suspect I'll just use the same process for the speakers.

I toyed around with the idea of using a table saw to cut dadoes into the cabinet panels for extra strength, but I figure it's probably overkill and I'm not familiar with the process anyway. I'll just make them per the drawings and I'll be fine.

[BeerParty]

What other miscellaneous hardware should I purchase up front from PartsExpress or Home Depot? I must need hardware like T-nuts, screws, etc. but I'm not sure exactly what to buy. I could get "kits" of mounting hardware, but I hesitate to buy extra junk if it's not necessary.

The only thing that comes to my mind that you will need right off is terminals. You will want to pick out the type of terminals and get them early so you can figure out mounting when you build the cabinets. For example, I got cups for mine, so I had to plan where the cup would go and cut the hole for it. Since the plans called for recessed drivers, I recessed the speaker terminal cup in the rear panel first to get some experience.

The Statements also call for two types of foam (1" in the tunnels and 2" in the cabinets), and I ordered the foam from Parts Express when I order my other stuff. I just thought it would be easier than trying to find it locally.

Whether you get screws or T-nuts depends on how you want to mount the speakers to the baffles. Since these will be furniture as much as speakers, you will probably want to put a little extra care into selecting your screws. I picked up all that stuff from a local hardware store. One thing I'll mention here is that I used a slightly bigger screw for the woofers, as the mounting holes on them were slightly bigger then in the mid and tweeter.

[BeerParty]

I assumed that the router can be adjusted to alter the depth of the recess, right?? I've never actually used a router, but it seems logical that this would be true.

A router will absolutely be able to adjust depth.

You'll want to get (or borrow) a router with a plunge base, not a fixed base. I bought a kit that came with both bases, and used the plunge base for most of my speaker build. If you have never used one before, try and get a friend to show you how - they can be pretty dangerous if not set up correctly. The main thing to remember is that the bit must be tight in the collet and you should make several shallow cuts, not a singe deep cut.

[AdelaaR]

For hardwood it'll probably be better to make shallow cuts but any router can take on deep cuts in that spungy MDF, no?

[Drew_V]

The Statements also call for two types of foam (1" in the tunnels and 2" in the cabinets), and I ordered the foam from Parts Express when I order my other stuff. I just thought it would be easier than trying to find it locally.

As far as I know, the Mini Statements do not use any foam in the tunnels. From Curt's website, he only mentions 2" foam in the woofer regions. Nothing in the port area and nothing in the mid/tweet areas.

I know the Statement Monitors have foam inserts in the mid tunnels, but I don't know about the full sized Statements.

Of course, that foam can be added last if necessary. But I think it's not needed.

[BeerParty]

I've actually read some opinions that using a circular saw is easier for large pieces like 4x8 sheets. When I did the 3/4" OSB flooring for my basement, I used a circular saw and a jigsaw to make the cuts and it worked great. I suspect I'll just use the same process for the speakers.

Correct, when cutting down a 4x8 sheet of plywood you would want to use a circular saw. Typically what you do is cut the large sheet down with the circular saw to create over-sized panels which then get cut down to their final size after they are a more manageable size. The final cuts can be done with a circular saw, but some of the cuts for a box (like the one for your speakers) require a high level of consistency and that is much easier with a table saw.

[BeerParty]

For hardwood it'll probably be better to make shallow cuts but any router can take on deep cuts in that spungy MDF, no?

If you want to try it, go ahead. I suggest you set aside the money to buy replacement material and a new router bit after you see the results.

When cutting MDF, plywood, or solid wood with a router you should always minimize the amount of material you cut. The reason is that the more material you try to cut, the more heat you generate. Higher temperatures will dull the bit faster and potentially burn the material you are working with. In fact, I have found that I can cut solid wood faster than MDF and plywood. It makes sense when you realize that MDF and plywood are formed with glue, and the glue is harder on bits and blades than solid wood is.

There have been several threads here where people have complained about the problems they had cutting the holes in the baffles for the drivers with a router, and the problem is usually that they were trying to cut too deep. I use an 1/4" solid carbide spiral up-cut bit (expensive, but probably the best bit for this sort of cut) in my router for this task, and I don't cut more then 1/4" on each pass (even in "spongy MDF"). I have tried cutting deeper and the results were always disappointing.

[Drew_V]

Correct, when cutting down a 4x8 sheet of plywood you would want to use a circular saw. Typically what you do is cut the large sheet down with the circular saw to create over-sized panels which then get cut down to their final size after they are a more manageable size. The final cuts can be done with a circular saw, but some of the cuts for a box (like the one for your speakers) require a high level of consistency and that is much easier with a table saw.

That's a good idea. My friend has a very nice table saw, actually, but getting the big sheets over there would be a problem. I like the idea of cutting them slightly oversized (maybe 1/4" or so per side) and then doing finish cuts on the table.

Of course, with a good circular saw guide, I don't see why I couldn't make accurate cuts right away. I mean, you just lay the guide directly on the cut line and go for it. Why wouldn't it be consistent? Heck, I've made freehand cuts that were well within 1/8" along the entire length of an 8-foot panel. I realize the speaker cabinets need more precision, but I'd assume that using the guide would be accurate.

[Drew_V]

Oh, and another question:

Do I need a 4-ohm stable amp, or are these speakers rated as "8 ohm" (my assumption).

[Silver1omo]

Oh, and another question:

Do I need a 4-ohm stable amp, or are these speakers rated as "8 ohm" (my assumption).

From Curt's web site:

"The impedance is relatively benign with the worst amplifier load at 70
Hz @ 5 ohms and -45 degrees phase angle, but will want a 4 ohm capable
amp driving it."

Also remember that is better to have some headroom.

[Jim Holtz]

As far as I know, the Mini Statements do not use any foam in the tunnels. From Curt's website, he only mentions 2" foam in the woofer regions. Nothing in the port area and nothing in the mid/tweet areas.

I know the Statement Monitors have foam inserts in the mid tunnels, but I don't know about the full sized Statements.

Of course, that foam can be added last if necessary. But I think it's not needed.

Hi Drew,

Welcome to the Statements family! I hope you enjoy them as much as I do.

To clear up some misconceptions; yes, you do need 1" foam in the tunnels and either 2" foam or 2" fiberglass to line the woofer compartment. Please do a search on mid tunnel foam for specific instructions on how to install it.

If you're going to use a circular saw, cut the front and rear baffle oversize so you can use the router to make a perfect fit. Also be sure to route or angle cut the inner front baffle around the mids and woofers to prevent tunneling. It's pretty critical on the mids.

Good luck!

Jim

[Drew_V]

Thanks for the clarification on the foam, Jim. Didn't see it mentioned on Curt's website that the Minis have foam in the tunnels.

Can you clarify this question for me:

The description of the construction of the base is that there is a 5-inch cutaway for port ventilation. However, the drawings (in the PDF) show a 4-inch cutaway. Does it matter?

I was actually considering just building little pyramid-style plinth bases and moving the port to the rear. I've seen that mentioned in other threads, so I assume it's okay.


One more thing: I've seen on several designs where the woofers are rotated 90 degrees relative to each other. I didn't know why that was done and if it was necessary for this design.

Thanks.

[Jim Holtz]

Thanks for the clarification on the foam, Jim. Didn't see it mentioned on Curt's website that the Minis have foam in the tunnels.

Can you clarify this question for me:

The description of the construction of the base is that there is a 5-inch cutaway for port ventilation. However, the drawings (in the PDF) show a 4-inch cutaway. Does it matter?

I was actually considering just building little pyramid-style plinth bases and moving the port to the rear. I've seen that mentioned in other threads, so I assume it's okay.


One more thing: I've seen on several designs where the woofers are rotated 90 degrees relative to each other. I didn't know why that was done and if it was necessary for this design.

Thanks.

4" or 5" won't make a difference. It's just an exit for the port to breathe freely.

I'm not sure what you mean by rotating the drivers but if it's how they're positioned on the front baffle, there is no up or down on the drivers face. Position them so the screws are in a symmetrical pattern that you like.

BTW, DO buy the drivers before cutting the holes and measure them. I'd suggest you cut the recesses slightly oversize so they will fit better.

Jim

[BeerParty]

Of course, with a good circular saw guide, I don't see why I couldn't make accurate cuts right away. I mean, you just lay the guide directly on the cut line and go for it. Why wouldn't it be consistent? Heck, I've made freehand cuts that were well within 1/8" along the entire length of an 8-foot panel. I realize the speaker cabinets need more precision, but I'd assume that using the guide would be accurate.

I didn't say you couldn't make the cuts with a circular saw, I just said it would be easier to get consistent cuts with a table saw. Its the consistency that is important. Here is an example of what I am talking about:



In this layout you can see one side of the cabinet, the rear (with the hole), and the top and bottom. Most of these cuts were made with a circular saw (using a guide), but the final cut for the width of the backs, tops and bottoms were made with a table saw so they would all be the exact same width. That way when I glue everything together, I know that there will not be any gaps.

The over-sized edges get trimmed down with a router and a flush trim bit after the glue dries.

[Drew_V]

Ordered the drivers and crossover parts today from PE. Have to wait on the woofers and tweeters, though, as they're not in stock. Probably another 3 weeks for them.

At least it will give me time to build the crossovers. I'm still wondering exactly where to put them. Putting them in the woofer boxes would be the most convenient and easy to access, but putting them in the lowest region near the port would be the least intrusive, as I could more completely treat the woofer boxes with foam. Anyone had success either way?

I'm also planning to move the port to be rear-firing and changing the style of the base. So I can use the very bottom of the cabinet to mount the crossover(s). I may still need to mount some up on the sides, which would probably mean that I have to do it before the cabinet finally gets all glued up. What are the odds that I'd have to repair a crossover and have to cut into the box?

[Jim Holtz]

Ordered the drivers and crossover parts today from PE. Have to wait on the woofers and tweeters, though, as they're not in stock. Probably another 3 weeks for them.

At least it will give me time to build the crossovers. I'm still wondering exactly where to put them. Putting them in the woofer boxes would be the most convenient and easy to access, but putting them in the lowest region near the port would be the least intrusive, as I could more completely treat the woofer boxes with foam. Anyone had success either way?

I'm also planning to move the port to be rear-firing and changing the style of the base. So I can use the very bottom of the cabinet to mount the crossover(s). I may still need to mount some up on the sides, which would probably mean that I have to do it before the cabinet finally gets all glued up. What are the odds that I'd have to repair a crossover and have to cut into the box?

Always build the crossovers on boards that will slide through the woofer cutouts so they can be removed later if necessary. One arm through the port hole and one arm through the lower woofer cutout and you can easily install them by screwing the boards to the side walls on either side of the port. I use peg board personally. It works great!

Jim

[Drew_V]

Thanks Jim. That gives me some confidence in going that route. To the sides, it is.

[Drew_V]

By the way, does anyone have any pictures of the Mini crossovers that I could look at? Not that I'm new to soldering or electronics work, but it would help to look at an established component layout before I get started.


And is there a final word on the front baffle side edge roundovers vs. squared corners? I'm still looking to use the Lamin-Art product as a veneer, but it doesn't like to bend around corners. If I could go square for the front edges, that would be much easier, as long as it doesn't destroy the sound.

[Jim Holtz]

And is there a final word on the front baffle side edge roundovers vs. squared corners? I'm still looking to use the Lamin-Art product as a veneer, but it doesn't like to bend around corners. If I could go square for the front edges, that would be much easier, as long as it doesn't destroy the sound.

Round or angled is better but square will work fine. HERE is a good comparison by Dennis Murphy. I doubt that it's audible but it can be measured.

Jim

[Drew_V]

Great link. Thanks again for that. I agree that I probably won't notice it at all, especially in the listening environment that I'll be putting these speakers in. It's a small box with no wall treatments and wood furniture with glass cabinets. The reflections and interference that will be going on in the room will make a mess of the FR curves. I'll never notice that 3dB dip at 7k.

Square it is. I think it'll just make for a nicer looking cabinet and one that's easier to finish.

[Drew_V]

Got the components today, except the tweeters and woofers, which are both on backorder. But at least I can start working on the crossovers.


I did have a question on the driver cutout recesses.... If I cut out the holes for the drivers with a circle jig, how do I cut the recesses for the driver flanges? I mean, there will be no "center" left. Do I have to cut the mounting flange recesses first, THEN cut out the material in the center?

Also, after I apply the veneer, how do I trim the recess areas? Is there a router bit available that has a really shallow guide tip?

[BOBinGA]

You are correct - cut the mounting flange recesses first, THEN cut out the material in the center.

Good question on the veneer. I haven't tried veneer just because of that.

-Bob

[Silver1omo]

The flush trim bit I have needs around 9mm. The drivers for the mini have ~5mm flanges. Don't know if 4mm is too much for gasket tape...

[Drew_V]

I think it is. Gasket tape or weatherstripping usually just crushes down to zero.

Obviously, there's a solution. I just have no idea what it is.

[Jim Holtz]

I think it is. Gasket tape or weatherstripping usually just crushes down to zero.

Obviously, there's a solution. I just have no idea what it is.

Here is what you need. SC28B is the one to use. You do need to grind the tip so it matches the depth of the recess.

Jim

[SteveA]

Got the components today, except the tweeters and woofers, which are both on backorder. But at least I can start working on the crossovers.


I did have a question on the driver cutout recesses.... If I cut out the holes for the drivers with a circle jig, how do I cut the recesses for the driver flanges? I mean, there will be no "center" left. Do I have to cut the mounting flange recesses first, THEN cut out the material in the center?

Also, after I apply the veneer, how do I trim the recess areas? Is there a router bit available that has a really shallow guide tip?

Get a Jasper jig (or something similar), I believe PE sells them, it will make cutting circles a breeze. Cut the rebate allowing for difference between shank size and router bit. Then, as was posted, cut the thru hole.

SteveA
PS, I'm waiting on the tweeters from Madisound. I plan to build a set of Mini's and a set of Monitors and a center of undetermined description (at this point)

[BeerParty]

I did have a question on the driver cutout recesses.... If I cut out the holes for the drivers with a circle jig, how do I cut the recesses for the driver flanges? I mean, there will be no "center" left. Do I have to cut the mounting flange recesses first, THEN cut out the material in the center?

Also, after I apply the veneer, how do I trim the recess areas? Is there a router bit available that has a really shallow guide tip?

If you will be veneering and want to flush trim the veneer with the recesses, I can offer two options:

(1) Use a rabbiting bit to cut the recess. What you would do is determine the exact diameter you need for the recess, and then cut the through hole for the driver exactly 1" smaller then that. Then you can use a 1/2" rabbiting bit to cut the recess after applying the veneer. You may have to vary the size to make sure the driver can fit through the finished hole - for the tweeter you might have to cut the through hole 0.75" smaller and then use a 3/8" rabbiting bit. You'll want to experiment on some scrap to make sure you get the size correct.

(2) Cut the through holes for the drivers, and then make a jig that provides a center hole for circle jig to use like I did for my AviaTrix build. All you need to do is use the circle jig to cut a piece of scrap so the outer diameter is the same as the inner diameter of your driver cutout. Then you press the jig into your driver hole and 'presto', you have new centered hole so you can cut the recess.

[Drew_V]

Thanks everyone. I'll grab that trim router bit and I can certainly grind down the tip to fit the recesses.

I'll have to cut the recesses first, then make the hole cutouts last. No problem.

At least I'm getting closer. I hope to have everything laid out soon, then I can start collecting the tools and putting stuff together.

Any other advice for which router bits I should be collecting?

[Drew_V]

Tweeters are in stock at Madisound! Now I'm just waiting for the woofers.


A question about driver mounting hardware: Do I NEED to get machine screws and T-nuts, or can I just use the self-tapping style screws and just go directly into the wood? My assumption is that I won't be removing these drivers or port tube all that much, so why would I need machine screws? Also, there's no force or any sort of load that's trying to loosen up the drivers, so wouldn't the coarse-thread wood screw style be adequate?


BTW, I'm working on a single 5" x 10" crossover board that people might be interested in. The parts layout is pretty clean and it fits through the lower woofer cutout. I'll share a picture of it when it's ready.

I'm planning on using a rear-firing port at 6 inches up from the cabinet bottom. I'm going to mount the crossover board directly on the bottom of the cabinet. All 4 pairs of driver leads will be routed down to the bottom cavity and connected to a terminal strip.

For the base, I'm going to double up on the bottom plate, then add some 1.5-inch spikes, and set the whole thing on a nice solid cherry wood platform. It should look nice.

Also, since I won't be able to veneer the whole thing with a single 4x8 sheet, I'm planning to paint the rear baffle black, then just veneer the sides, front and top, which will easily fit on a single 4x8 sheet of veneer. Again, it should look nice and nobody ever looks at the back of a speaker anyway.

So, if anyone has any advice on the mounting screws (as stated above), I'm all ears.

Thanks.

[Curt C]

Wayne and I generally use wood screws for driver mounting. -Either the cap screws that Mad sells, or plain old (cheap) black drywall screws. Yes, they can work loose with use, and strip out over time, but it's a relatively small issue in my opinion.

C

[Drew_V]

Thanks for the advice, Curt. I also read where some other folks used the same type of screws. They sealed and reinforced the screw holes with some glue/water mixture to harden up the threads, which I believe I will also do.

I'm hoping I don't have to remove the drivers except maybe ONCE after preliminary testing in order to do the final cabinet finishing.

I never really liked using flat head screws in non-chamfered holes. I see socket head cap screws in my future....

[Jim Holtz]

I use #8 x 1" coarse thread screws from PE. They are inexpensive and bite deep. I've never stripped the wood in a speaker. I have had T-nuts come loose and its a major pain to try and remove them. I'll never use T-nuts or hurricane nuts again.

Jim

[Drew_V]

I use #8 x 1" coarse thread screws from PE. They are inexpensive and bite deep. I've never stripped the wood in a speaker. I have had T-nuts come loose and its a major pain to try and remove them. I'll never use T-nuts or hurricane nuts again.

Jim

I looked at the "security hex head" versions and they got poor reviews for heads stripping. Unfortuanately, I was interested in those from an aesthetics perspective. But I ended up getting those #8x1 screws instead. I'm planning on filling the heads with wood putty after the drivers are installed, then re-painting the heads black over the wood putty.

They will look flawlessly round from the outside, almost like a rivet. But they would still be removeable in the event of a repair, as you would just chip out the wood putty.



And while I'm at it, I might as well ask about the glue-and-screw method vs. just the glue method (flush, no dadoes). I had just planned on going straight glue, no screws. Is there an advantage to using the additional screws? Once the glue is dried, isn't the joint strong enough?

[Jim Holtz]

A glued joint is more than strong enough. I never use screws to hold a cabinet together. I do use a brad nailer to "set" the position when assembling and then clamp it. The brad nailer cut my assembly time in 1/2.

Jim

[BeerParty]

A glued joint is more than strong enough. I never use screws to hold a cabinet together. I do use a brad nailer to "set" the position when assembling and then clamp it. The brad nailer cut my assembly time in 1/2.

Jim

+1

The screws are just to decrease build time. If you glue and screw you don't have to wait for the glue to dry before moving on to the next build step. If you glue and clamp you have to wait for the glue to dry between build steps.

On the other hand, if you are have to wait for the glue to dry you can take pictures and post to your build thread... :P

[Drew_V]

Crossover layout on single board

Finished my single board layout. I checked it over many times to make sure the wiring was accurate. I plan on using a terminal strip to make all the power and driver lead connections. The components in this layout are physically accurate dimensionally. All connections are made at nodes (the little dots). Any crossovers without dots are no-connects. The board measures exactly 5" x 10" so that it will easily fit through the lower woofer cutout.

Enjoy!

[AdelaaR]

Nice drawing ... good luck soldering that

[Drew_V]

Nice drawing ... good luck soldering that

Eh, shouldn't be a problem at all. I have lots of experience with electronics. Most of the stuff I've done in the past, I've needed to use a microscope to do the soldering. This is super easy by comparison.

I'll post a picture of the finished board when I'm done. I think you'll be surprised at how much free space there will be on the board.

[Cort]

Be careful, what has to go through the hole is really 5" x ~2"