A Statements Build From a DIY Novice

[Sylvan]

Hi everyone. I've spent the last few days reading up on The Statements and I'm enthralled with the prospect of building a set. I've never done speaker DIY before so I realize this is a bit ambitious, but what the heck. I could start with the Center for practice

I've already cleared it with the g/f that 2011 is going to be my year of DIY. Plans include the Statements L/R and Center, and maybe Statement Monitors or Minis for the surrounds in a 5.1 setup.

I probably do 50/50 movies/music. Interestingly the g/f also gave me the green-light for an attic IB sub system so we don't clutter the floor with sub boxes. This will be a long project and I probably won't even start for another couple of months, but I guess I can just come back and update this thread once I get started.

So naturally, I have a couple of questions before I get too excited.

1. Is this too ambitious for a first-timer? I consider myself pretty hands-on and I do a lot of DIY projects on the house or my cars.

2. Regarding sub integration: I've read some recommend to use a sealed Statement when using subs for HT, but I would like the option of running the fronts full-range for 2-channel music. Would it be a problem to use the regular, ported Statements with an IB sub arrangement crossed over around 40-60 Hz or so? I'm guessing an ideal crossover point would be determined using measurements at the listening position?

3. I was thinking of using dual pairs of binding posts on the main speakers for potential bi-wire/bi-amp ability, kind of a just-in-case feature. Is that really easy to do?

4. Any issues with recessing the mounting plate for the binding posts so they don't stick out so far from the rear of the cabinet?

I guess that's about it for now, I'll be frequenting this board quite often once I start getting busy. I'm really impressed so far with the community's willingness to help out and I think I can do it with your help!

Oh, my gear is a Marantz AV8003 pre/pro, with an Emotiva XPA-5 amplifier. The room is a 2nd-floor loft with about 15 feet from the couch to the front wall. The front wall is very wide, about 30 feet or so, and the right side opens to other parts of the house like a stair case and some bedrooms.

[Ezecuel]

I am still in the process of building my Statements, but it was my first DIY also. I am going slow and taking my time, but I've already messed up one baffle and had to remake. Everything else has gone swimmingly though, best advice I can give is read every build thread you can (I made a list of links I can reference). I've found that every question I've had has been asked and answered by some helpful someone here.

I will be interested in the recommendations on the subs though, I am still trying to figure out which I'm going to go with.

--Brandon

[nk215]

I just put together a In-Khans-Neato design.

My advices are:
+ Oversize the edges and use a router to flush trim those afterward.
+ Clamps and more clamps. You need a lot of force to make sure that there’s no hair-line gaps when glue the boards together. It’s a pain to go back and fill those (unless you go with veneer).
+ Cut the driver holes outside. Clean up with a leaf blower.

[Delta Dog]

You can read the responses on my question below about sub integration suggestions.

Link

[john trials]

1) too ambitious...that's mainly your decision. Me...I got totally hooked, and made a full 5.1 system with Statements/CC/Monitors. For my first project, I made Tritrix TLs, because I wasn't sure if I had enough tools (I wasn't into buying tools for the project). Tritrix TLs came out great with my very limited shop, so I continued with Statements.

2) I have the full-sized Statements (ported) as my L&R. No need for the sub to be turned on for music. Works out great.

3) Bi-amping is fine, and really easy with the crossover layout that Curt has.

4) Recessed mounting plate...no problem either.

Enjoy. I'd recommend building the full-sized Statements first, just because they are HUGE. It's nice to work on the CC and/or Monitors second. They are a lot easier just because of the weight and size. After building my full-sized pair, I never want to move them ever again!

My build thread: http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=34301

[BeerParty]

2. Regarding sub integration: I've read some recommend to use a sealed Statement when using subs for HT, but I would like the option of running the fronts full-range for 2-channel music. Would it be a problem to use the regular, ported Statements with an IB sub arrangement crossed over around 40-60 Hz or so? I'm guessing an ideal crossover point would be determined using measurements at the listening position?

If you want the ported Statements for full range music then absolutely go for it. Most people building the sealed Statements to go with a Sub are doing it because they want the smaller size (they typically put the Statements on top of the subs) and plan to use the sub all the time. I have yet to hear anyone say the ported Statements are 'bad' with a sub.

4. Any issues with recessing the mounting plate for the binding posts so they don't stick out so far from the rear of the cabinet?

No problem with this, but if you want recessed binding posts you can save yourself some work buy buying a recessed speaker terminal. Use the Parts Express link above and search on 'speaker terminals' (they even have bi-amp terminals available).

[Sylvan]

Excellent responses, thank you everyone. It's a relief to know that there is nothing "wrong" with using the ported Statements with a sub, just depends on personal preference it seems.

John I've read up on your build thread and it's very inspirational. Very detailed, I really appreciate it.

Chris, thanks for the heads up on those recessed terminal cups. The reason I am shying away from having a pair of terminals protruding from the cabinet, is because I goofed when trying to move some speakers in my car last year. I had them lying terminals-down and I was trying to slide it into the trunk of my little car, and the terminals caught on the trunk lip and sheared off. I was pretty mad at my stupidity and now I'm a little bit turned off on protruding terminals.

I can't wait to start!

[Sylvan]

Are mitered cuts necessary on the cabinet frame? What are the advantages / disadvantages vs. just 90 degree cuts?

[cbark]

Just use 90deg cuts. Much easier to work with.

What type of wood are you using? One reason to use a 45 would be if you were using a hardwood wrap around a ply or mdf internal box. That way you so not see the butt joint. If you paint or use veneer, you will not see the joint anyway.

[Sylvan]

Just use 90deg cuts. Much easier to work with.

What type of wood are you using? One reason to use a 45 would be if you were using a hardwood wrap around a ply or mdf internal box. That way you so not see the butt joint. If you paint or use veneer, you will not see the joint anyway.

Ok thanks that's what I figured. I was planning to veneer over MDF so as long as the 90 degree is strong enough, that works for me!

[exojam]

Have you looked at Neutrik Speakon connectors for these?

James

[snmhanson]

I'll just chime in and say that I built Statement Monitors for my first real DIY build and I didn't have any problems that I wouldn't have had building any other design. I am thinking of building the sealed statements now and if I had known about them at the time I probably would have just started with them - not that I have any complaints about the Monitors. I just think sealed Statements on top of my subs will be very nice.

Make sure to have yourself a good router with proper bits, including a flush-trim bit. A plunge router and a circle jig is almost required for the driver and port cutouts. A table saw is a huge help as well in terms of getting consistent and straight cuts. As stated, recessed terminal cups are available and you can also create your own recess by cutting a section out and gluing more wood or MDF behind it.

I am not expert - just one novice DIYer to another. I was a bit intimidated initially and am very happy that I took my builds on. I have done a fair amount of wood working but the electronics and soldering work is all pretty new to me. One word of warning though. Speaker building is an addiction and if you're anything like me you'll be ready for a new build as soon as (maybe even before) you are done with this build. Also, as has been said many times on this forum, don't listen to them until you are completely done with them - otherwise you may never get to finishing them. Just take your time and think things through and you will be fine.

Matt

[Sylvan]

Thanks for the encouragement Matt. I've been browsing around Craigslist for plunge routers, and hopefully I can score a good deal before I start my build. I enjoyed reading your build. The more first-time builds I see, the more I feel that I can do it too! Actually I think the most intimidating part is getting the finish right, with the right combination of veneer and stain or gloss coat.

[Sylvan]

In-cabinet quick disconnects

Has anyone tried using the Dean's Ultra plugs for quick-disconnects between the drivers and crossover? Looks like a nice electrical contact and it's keyed so you can't mess up the polarity once it's soldered onto the wires.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKX39&P=ML

[dpc rep]

I would prefer the speakon connectors before those. I plan on using them on my center/mains once I build them. About the same price and very clean looking.

[Sylvan]

My reference to the Dean's plugs was for the quick-disconnect inside the cabinets, in case you had to remove a driver and you needed to disconnect it from the crossover. It looks to me to be of higher quality than the standard wire disconnects but I don't have any experience with them.

I agree the speakons look pretty nice for the outside connection to the amp. I'm up in the air between that and regular binding posts.

[cjd]

2. Regarding sub integration: I've read some recommend to use a sealed Statement when using subs for HT, but I would like the option of running the fronts full-range for 2-channel music. Would it be a problem to use the regular, ported Statements with an IB sub arrangement crossed over around 40-60 Hz or so? I'm guessing an ideal crossover point would be determined using measurements at the listening position?

While you can always stuff the port, there is no way they're "full range for music" - at least, not my kind of music (classical, and a particular enjoyment of organ). And if you room does the IB well, it will beat the socks off a ported alignment both in quantity and quality of bass. Cross 50-60Hz to sealed Statements, IMO.

Also, the Deans plugs do a good connection - you could use them, to be sure. On the other hand, if you have a quality soldering iron, it's not *that* long to just unsolder in that amazingly rare occasion you would ever remove a driver... (I did, only to test the new un-shielded drivers in old crossovers - both in my WWMTM - RS180, and my MTM - RS150). I'd not bother.

C

[Sylvan]

C,
thanks for the perspective. The more I ask the question, and the more digging through old threads I do, the more it looks like sealed is the way to go, especially considering I'll always have a sub, since once I go IB, I probably won't ever turn it off. It's funny how difficult this decision is, like naming a first child or something.

[snmhanson]

C,
thanks for the perspective. The more I ask the question, and the more digging through old threads I do, the more it looks like sealed is the way to go, especially considering I'll always have a sub, since once I go IB, I probably won't ever turn it off. It's funny how difficult this decision is, like naming a first child or something.

OK, here you go. Sealed Statements, 2RCC for the center, Monitors for surrounds, IB sub for down low and Lance or Penelope depending on the sex. Any other questions?

Matt

[Sylvan]

OK, here you go. Sealed Statements, 2RCC for the center, Monitors for surrounds, IB sub for down low and Lance or Penelope depending on the sex. Any other questions?

Matt

Sounds good

[Curt C]

Sylvan,

See the thread on “Sealed Statement or Modified Statement questions” Jim and I have put up some observations there regarding the new Dayton drivers in this design.

C

[saabracer23]

Sylvan,

See the thread on “Sealed Statement or Modified Statement questions” Jim and I have put up some observations there regarding the new Dayton drivers in this design.

C

So with a 20% volume decrease to sound sonically the same would there be any downside or benefit of keeping the cabinet the same size with the new drivers. I just bought the new unshielded 8s for this project.

Dan

[cbark]

Have you tried modeling the changes yourself? You might fine that you want a different alignment anyway.

[Sylvan]

Sylvan,

See the thread on “Sealed Statement or Modified Statement questions” Jim and I have put up some observations there regarding the new Dayton drivers in this design.

C

Thanks Curt, I'll jump over there and look for more information.

[saabracer23]

Have you tried modeling the changes yourself? You might fine that you want a different alignment anyway.

Sadly I don't have any modeling programs as my only computer right now is my iPhone :-(

Dan

[cbark]

Sadly I don't have any modeling programs as my only computer right now is my iPhone :-(

Dan

Isn't there an app for that? :W

[Sylvan]

I have a question for those who are mounting the center channel above the TV. I am contemplating this as a way to keep the floor area dedicated to the equipment and not have the center be blocking any of the gear.

The Statement center channel is, I assume, quite heavy (80+ lbs?) My TV is a wall-mounted plasma so obviously the speaker can't sit on the TV and would have to be on some kind of stand or mount that protrudes out from the wall. Since there needs to be significant "breathing room" behind the speaker, the C.G. of the speaker will probably be like 2-3 feet out from the wall, putting quite a lot of torque on whatever wall-mounting scheme I might choose. Is this doable? I am guessing I would have to devise a custom mount. What are you guys doing for your wall-mounted center channels? Thanks.

[snmhanson]

I have a question for those who are mounting the center channel above the TV. I am contemplating this as a way to keep the floor area dedicated to the equipment and not have the center be blocking any of the gear.

The Statement center channel is, I assume, quite heavy (80+ lbs?) My TV is a wall-mounted plasma so obviously the speaker can't sit on the TV and would have to be on some kind of stand or mount that protrudes out from the wall. Since there needs to be significant "breathing room" behind the speaker, the C.G. of the speaker will probably be like 2-3 feet out from the wall, putting quite a lot of torque on whatever wall-mounting scheme I might choose. Is this doable? I am guessing I would have to devise a custom mount. What are you guys doing for your wall-mounted center channels? Thanks.

You could try the 2RCC which is a Statement variant that is completely sealed. Still big and heavy so it doesn't completely solve your problem, but it doesn't need the space between it and the wall since it doesn't have a tunnel or port. Plus, I think it looks very sharp. Here is a link to the primary build thread for it: http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthr...highlight=2rcc

Matt

[Curt C]

Suspend the center channel from the ceiling joists. Below is a pro audio application, but it could easily be done without all the hardware showing.

C

[Sylvan]

Suspend the center channel from the ceiling joists. Below is a pro audio application, but it could easily be done without all the hardware showing.

C

Very neat, I would love to do something like that. I don't know if the lady of the house would go for it though ops:

I thought about doing one of those articulating LCD mounts and mounting a shelf to it, but then I thought about those old-school CRT wall mounts and I found some that hold about 100 pounds. Here's an example from Amazon:

Wall mount

[Jim Holtz]

I "think" 50 lbs. would be closer and that might be a bit high.

Jim

[Sylvan]

Thanks. I just got my TV mounted on the wall today. The bottom edge of the bezel is about 14" off the floor. I think I might just do a short floor stand for the speaker, since I'll probably put my electronics off to the side.