Accurate bass response?

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  • ClintonH
    Member
    • Aug 2008
    • 36

    #46
    Thanks for the comments on the new box. It was just some 1/2" (maple I think) that I had laying around for ever that I cut and glued/nailed to the outside of the existing boxes. This gave me the option of not worrying how I blocked off the ports etc, just didn't have to finish em too nice. It's stained with Imperial Cherry, I like how it turned out.

    Yep the main boxes have tops, they are sealed besides the 10" hole cut into the mounting side. The tops, sides and back of the main boxes are flat black because you can't see them anyway no real point in finishing them. The center box is finished on the front and top, with 10" mounting holes on each side. These are then bolted together with 12 1/4" bolts on either side with a rubber O-ring to seal.(a little silicone to make sure) This was just a quick build to I could keep the time down as I'm renovating our new house right now and time is at a premium right now. The other reason for 3 separate boxes was the weight issue and having to mount it under the screen. Thanks again for all the help, I'll try and build some diffusing panels for the side walls on the weekend. If the wife lets me.

    Clinton

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    • bluewizard
      Senior Member
      • Mar 2008
      • 104

      #47
      Some thoughts on bass traps.

      Here is a link to a photo of a nicely treated home theater, though it is a little difficult to see.

      Directly to the photo -



      Directly to the thread -



      See post# 22 .

      You have too look every close because the exposure is not that great. Over on the left next to the speaker, you will see a vertical black/charcoal rectangular box on the wall extending from a about a foot above the floor, up to and just past the light. Also note down near the bottom of that bass trap, is another bass trap extending horizontally forward and out of the picture.

      Also notice the ceiling, it has uneven rectangular blocks extending downward. You've got acoustical tile, so that's not that important for you.

      Also, though hard to see, in the corners right behind the speaker are more black fabric bass traps in the corners. Note that above those bass traps up near the wall/ceiling joint are small corrugated foam corner traps.

      Also note the curtains and carpet.

      That might be overkill for you.

      Here is a fun thought I had while I was pondering the problem (obviously too much time on my hands).

      I notice you have a large poster on the right. Consider making a bass trap picture frame for it. One possibility is to make a frame large enough to surround the poster, and able to hold 12" x 12" convoluted foam tiles (Uline.com) backed with some poly batting or upholstery foam. Essentially, you have created a soft shadow box frame for the poster. I would fill the poster area with something soft like thin poly batting or upholstery foam, then cover with cloth. Hang the frame and mount the poster, and you are good to go. Looks good and sounds good.

      Alternately, (again too much time on my hands), do something similar, but just fill the frame border with some soft fill like poly batting or uphostery foam, cover with cloth and again, mount the poster inside. You could do the same thing on the other side, build a soft shadow box, and mount a poster in the middle.

      Then, though you could certainly go farther, you simply need something to break up sound on the back wall. Another wood frame filled with padding and covered with convoluted foam. It doesn't even have to cover the entire wall, just some thing to break up the sound waves. If you wanted to do it on the cheap, you could simply glue or staple convoluted foam on the back wall.

      I don't imagine the frames would have to be much thicker than 1" x 3" lumber.

      Now, you can certainly spend more and certainly make better and more traps, but the soft shadow box picture frames seemed like a good idea to me.

      Like I said, way too much time on my hands.

      steve/bluewizard

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