Fuseable terminal cups

[dynamowhum]

Quick question guys. I have two sets of terminal cups. One set has fuse holders the other set doesn't. Should I use the fuseables and if yes which terminal do I wire it up to? Thanks

[ThomasW]

Use them if you want they do provide a measure of protection.

They're wired in series with the (+) input lead.

[Saurav]

And you'd generally use the fuse on the tweeter, I think. Though many people will question the need for a fuse in a home environment (you see them more in pro speakers), and question any possible negative sonic effects from having the fuse in the circuit. You could short it out with some wire too if you want.

[dynamowhum]

Thanks Thomas I forgot to ask one size fuse to use.

[ThomasW]

Fuse size depends on how much power you want the speaker to see before the fuse pops. Know that a fuse will not protect against transient peaks.

[dynamowhum]

This is going on the non baffle step Nat Ps and will have 200watts at 4 ohms each.

[ThomasW]

You plan on feeding 200 watts into speaker with 60watt per woofer power handling?

[here.now]

You plan on feeding 200 watts into speaker with 60watt per woofer power handling?

Hence the need for a fuse

I've always wondered about DIY power handling. How does one rate their speaker, is it by the lowest rated driver or are there some calculations that consider the XO network?

Not that I'll ever measure what kind of watt's I'm feeding my speakers, it's just good to know so you don't accidentally over-feed your new setup.

-Jeff

[ThomasW]

From a practical standpoint fuses are really a trial and error thing.

Use the lowest current, fast-blow fuse that doesn't blow during normal listening. For a woofer, start with a 1 or 1-1/2 amp fuse and work up.

Understand that using this fuse doesn't idiot-proof a speaker, it simply provides a level of protection, sometimes at the expense of sound quality.