woodworking question after stain?

[Bent]

I'm wondering if something should happen next? I've sanded, stained, wiped off stain, now should I put a coat of some type on top?

[augerpro]

Does that fit through your door? :E

[Bent]

Hehehe, yes - the sled beside it is a mini-Indy, not full sized.
I built a enclosure for two 15" Soundsplinter RL-p's in a sealed config, double 3/4" mdf with 1/8 oak veneer core ply on most sides, some trim, etc. It's my second subwoofer project and my first attempt at making something look acceptable.
It's 24"x24"x50"

[gmed]

polyurethane. I personally like the wipe on.

tough finish that will protect against moisture better than lacquer.

[Bent]

Brian mentioned Old Dad's in another thread - does it leave streaks? or do I sand it with fine grit sandpaper? (4/0 steele wool?)
pardon my ignorance, this is new to me

[gmed]

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let dry 24 hours in between, fine sand, then apply another coat. I used about 6 or 7 coats. I use wet-sand paper, not steel wool. wipe off with damp cloth, then apply the poly with special cloth that will not leave any lint behind.

try not to use coarse sandpaper since it will take off most of the finish. Keep in mind, you're applying it by cloth, not brush, so layers are gonna be thin.

Also, the instructions on the can are pretty good. I would use a sanding sealer before the poly though. It will bring out all the grains and it will help you attain a smother finish.

the instructions below will help you. I would just use the wife on instead of brush on, since almost anyone can apply the wife on the first time.

http://www.rd.com/18084/article18084.html

[technimac]

Wife On?

I would just use the wife on instead of brush on, since almost anyone can apply the wife on the first time.

I tried doing this, but my wife didn't enjoy it as much as I did. :W :W

[technimac]

Wife On?

Seriously, I do agree that Poly is the best finish for this purpose - very durable and easily controlled application.

[Brian Bunge]

No, the Old Dad's does not leave streaks. And only use the Minwax stuff if you cannot find the Old Dad's locally. The Minwax looks like plastic. The Old Dad's does not.

These are the recommendations for the Old Dad's:

1) Sand with 220 grit sandpaper and wipe off with a tack cloth.

2) Using a lint free cloth, wipe on a thin coat of poly.

3) Let dry 4-6 hours and then apply another thin coat.

4) Let dry overnight and then sand lightly with 600 grit sandpaper, wipe with tack cloth, and apply another thin coat.

5) If you want to add more coats you can repeat step 4 every 24 hours.

I get the best results with at least 5 coats, but then I like a nice semi-gloss finish. I've got some small cabinets with red dyed birds eye maple veneer that has about 10 coats of semi-gloss on them. Maybe I'll finish them one of these days and post some pics.

[Bent]

Thanks Brian - I guess I'm not as close to being finished as I thought.
I'd like to be able to do this at your level one day, but I'm far from that as of yet.

I greatly appreciate the advice.

[Brian Bunge]

Actually, many of the stains also act as a bit of a sealer. So you shouldn't need a lot of coats. The few times I've stained veneer I've only needed maybe 3-4 coats. I usually do more coats for my own stuff. You know...just because I can!

[Jeff G]

I would consider using 400 or 600 to sand after the 1st two coats. Be very careful at the cirners. It is very easy to sand through your finish!! I prefer the satin finish of minwax wipe on poly over the gloss, but that really is a personal preference thing. Gloss will tend to show errors more. Other nice products include an oil-poly blend from General finishes called Arm R Seal (or something close to that). It is avaialble at Woodcraft and is avaialble in different schenes. I feel that this is a really nice product. Make sure you use a tack rag or cotton cloth with a little mineral spirits after sanding-Have fun!
Jeff

[David_D]

FAIW: If the project had an open/deep grain finish like oak for instants, I would recomend a couple coats of high gloss poly before the finish coats of whatever sheen is goal. High ploss poly is thicker and builds in the grain faster. I have an oak covered sub, one side has over 10 coats of satin the other three sides have 2 coats of high gloss and 2 coats of finish satin. I think you are using cherry, so trying to build up finish should not be as much of an issue.
Did you find that using the iron on glue raised the grain on your veneer? It did with my cherry center. I had more sanding then I anticipated.

[Brian Bunge]

David,

Most of the veneer I've used with the iron on method has been cherry (hell, most of the veneer I've used period has been cherry) and I did notice it raised the grain a bit.

[David_D]

David,

Most of the veneer I've used with the iron on method has been cherry (hell, most of the veneer I've used period has been cherry) and I did notice it raised the grain a bit.

I know JoeWoodworking recommends using a slight steam setting. I was going to try next time without any steam at all. Any foresight?

[Brian Bunge]

I've only used Titebond glue and have never used any steam. So I don't know anything about that recommendation. Sorry.

[David_D]

I've only used Titebond glue and have never used any steam. So I don't know anything about that recommendation. Sorry.

Well then...
Allow me to throw a plug to veneersupplies.com, Joewoodworker.com & Heat-lok veneer bonding product.
Great, easy, wonderful, looks good.
Although I would think it works the same as titebond, the heat-lok was very easy to master.
Next time will not use any steam on the iron and hope it saves some sanding.
Thanks for the input Brian.

[JRT]

polyurethane. I personally like the wipe on.
tough finish that will protect against moisture better than lacquer.

You can DIY a wipe on varnish/oil mixture (old/classic recipe, not mine) with the proportions:
1/3 varnish
1/3 BLO (boiled linseed oil)
1/3 mineral spirits (or turpentine)

Proportions do not have to be precise.

Don't use satin or semi-gloss varnish in the mixture, as the additives that provide the light diffraction will also muddy the finish, and the satin mixes tend to have lower percentage of resin solids. Instead use a gloss varnish in the mixture such as McClosky's Man-O-War marine spar varnish (red can is the gloss version). A satin sheen can be achieved with a light rubbing with four-aught steel wool.

Here is a link to a detailed list of various finish options:

http://thewoodshop.20m.com/finishing.htm