New to the scene, have a few questions.

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  • Villainstone
    Member
    • Mar 2008
    • 37

    New to the scene, have a few questions.

    Hello guys I am new to this forum and hope to make a stay here. I am a newcomer and have an entry level sound system in the works. I am in the process of making a subwoofer enclosure and would like to know a few things and get peoples advice.

    I already have a design (basic but easy) that will be a good first time build. I have been reading a few things here and there and the more I see the more motivated I become. My design is 3.3ft^3 with all ports, braces, amp, and driver accounted for. I am planning 3/4" MDF with a double baffle, possibly the side as well. The plan is to house a 12" sub and a plate amp to power the sub without a sweat.

    Here is where I would like your advice and suggestions guys. I have a plan to use the Dayton RSS315HF-4 12", and the Dayton SA240-B 240W Sub Amp. This was actually suggested on another forum that I am no longer a part of. I have a budget of about 300.00 TOTAL that the wife me to take from own savings for an entire subwoofer DIY enclosure. I would like to know if there is a better choice than these for my budget, which I still have to buy building supplies (glue, nails, wood) with? I figured I would have about 250.00 to spend on an amp and driver. I know that this isn't much, and that is why I am asking what's the best for my money? I do realize that you get what you pay for so I am only expecting 250.00 worth of performance but that should be just fine for my system.

    Yamaha RXV-661, and two Polk Audio Monitor 50's I wanted the 60's but they were out of budget . I am still saving up for the center and surrounds, and I am obviously building the sub. Depending how I do on the sub I might just go ahead and build my own surrounds. Thanks a lot guys, being so late, if I left anything out please just ask and I will fill in where I need to.

    I forgot to add...my room size is about 15'x18'. Also in WinIsd if I choose to use two ports and it tells me I need 36.16 inches, is that total port length, or length per port?
  • PoorboyMike
    Senior Member
    • Oct 2005
    • 637

    #2
    I just built a sub with the same amp and driver for a friends mom. Her and her husband are very happy with it. It's not going to blow anyones mind with it's output, but it has great sound quality and is enough for most mortals.

    I have the Unibox file saved at home if you want me to send it to you. You will need Microsoft Excell to view it though.

    Comment

    • CFC
      Junior Member
      • Dec 2007
      • 9

      #3
      Originally posted by Villainstone
      I forgot to add...my room size is about 15'x18'. Also in WinIsd if I choose to use two ports and it tells me I need 36.16 inches, is that total port length, or length per port?
      That's total port length.
      Good luck
      CFC

      Comment

      • PoorboyMike
        Senior Member
        • Oct 2005
        • 637

        #4
        Originally posted by CFC
        That's total port length.
        Good luck
        CFC
        In Unibox, it would be length per port. If for instance, you chose a single 4" port and it told you 16" for a 20hz tune, if you changed it to 2 4" ports, they each would have to be significanly longer to acheive the same tuning.

        Comment

        • CFC
          Junior Member
          • Dec 2007
          • 9

          #5
          Originally posted by PoorboyMike
          In Unibox, it would be length per port. If for instance, you chose a single 4" port and it told you 16" for a 20hz tune, if you changed it to 2 4" ports, they each would have to be significanly longer to acheive the same tuning.
          Yes, you are correct. My mistake .. it is per port (which means I'll have to change my own design )

          CFC

          Comment

          • Villainstone
            Member
            • Mar 2008
            • 37

            #6
            Well if that mean WinIsd is the same way I need two 36" ports :E. Thank you for being kind in your replies as well, The last forum seemed like the replies were posted by guys that think they were better than me. There attitude was less than desirable so I left to come here. Thanks a lot fellas...

            Ok so I will keep those choices and changes my port length.

            Comment

            • Dennis H
              Ultra Senior Member
              • Aug 2002
              • 3798

              #7
              If you use a flared port to help reduce chuffing, one 4" would probably be enough for the RS 12" and it would let you make the port much shorter.

              Comment

              • Villainstone
                Member
                • Mar 2008
                • 37

                #8
                Yeah I will do that then thanks a lot Dennis, CFC, and you too Poorboy. I have one more question before I go back to SketchUp and play with the port design. I plan to use this for movies and for music pretty close to a 50/50 ratio, I was thinking it would be good tuned to about 22hz is that about where it should be at? I was even thinking about 25 but I was really unsure and figured that I should just keep it lower.

                Comment

                • Villainstone
                  Member
                  • Mar 2008
                  • 37

                  #9
                  Bump

                  Comment

                  • Raptor550
                    Senior Member
                    • May 2007
                    • 132

                    #10
                    I have looked at that combo too. I normally see that sub with a 500w amp, I am wondering too how much difference that change would make, is the 500 watts just a bunch of "just in case overhead" or will you be running into a ceiling often?
                    Check out my cabinet designs. *Updated 6/16/07*



                    See my finished Dayton/Seas Project

                    Comment

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