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What do guys use to seal air leaks between the baffle and drivers? I've been using ordinary caulking with good results but it's a PITA if you ever need to remove the drivers.
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Foam weatherstripping tape from your local hardware store. -
Same here.Foam weatherstripping tape from your local hardware store
Closed cell if you can find it, but open cell is just about as good once compressed.
My local hardware stores will likely have only a couple rolls, but none in the right sizes,Comment
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Don't know about Canadian suppliers.
In the US, Ace Hardware stores have a neoprene foam that's perfect. It's more $pendy than the plastic foams sold at the big box stores Lowes, Big Orange, etc.
IB subwoofer FAQ page
"Complicated equipment and light reflectors and various other items of hardware are enough, to my mind, to prevent the birdie from coming out." ...... Henri Cartier-BressonComment
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Hmm...if only I knew of an Ace around here. I was just pondering this same question as on my Maxx's the woofers have a stamped lip instead of solid metal.Comment
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I use PE gasket tape and it works fine.Comment
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Don't you know Jed, Fine is not good enough in this hobby
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Do NOT use the PE caulk! Over time it effectively glues the driver in place. When that happens the options are not pleasant...
IB subwoofer FAQ page
"Complicated equipment and light reflectors and various other items of hardware are enough, to my mind, to prevent the birdie from coming out." ...... Henri Cartier-BressonComment
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I'll say! I bought a couple rolls of the rope caulk when it was on closeout. Used it on the tweeters in my last project and when I tested out the surrounds, one of the tweeters wasn't working. Went to pull them apart and like Thomas says, the tweeter wouldn't budge! I got lucky though and it was just a wiring mistake and not a bad tweeter. I wont be using it for speakers any more. :MOriginally posted by ThomasW
Thomas, did you happen to get my last PM? If not, I can re-send it.Comment
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Tell me about it. My W4s are permanently attached to my Lineup R44 boxes.Originally posted by ThomasW
John
unk:
"Why can't we all just, get along?" ~ Jack Nicholson (Mars Attacks)
My Website (hyperacusis, tinnitus, my story)Comment
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I use rope caulk that I buy at Home Depot or Lowes, I can't remember. It is different than the PE product. It is a white, slightly sticky roll of putty-like material. I recently removed a Lambda 15" subwoofer that had been installed in its cabinet with this stuff after 6 years and it came out without significant difficulty. It comes in a white box, maybe 6x6x2 inches, in the weatherstripping section. I also have several local friends who use it as well without problems.
This is the stuff I use (found it just by googling):
Sears linkComment
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obviously, lots of options.
I like the Automotive/Marine Grade Foam Weatherstripping from Homedepot. It is just your basic closed cell foam weather stripping, but the adhesive on the back side is a bit stronger.Comment
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Aquarium sealer is a great silicone caulk that, once it is dried, forms a stiff rubbery non-sticky bead that works well for me and doesn't seem to keep the driver. I lay a nice bead on the cab and let it sit for a day and then seat the driver. Stays on the cab but the driver comes out clean ( at least so far ).Comment
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I run nekkid. On sub drivers that don't include a gasket, I've never had any problem mounting directly to the baffle.
-BrentComment
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Yeah I should have been more specific. I've used the PE foam not the caulk.Originally posted by ThomasW
Here's the stuff I use.
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I've use that stuff a few times and I give it the :T . Thinner stuff for most drivers, wider stuff for subs...Originally posted by Jed
It's a heavier foam than a lot of what you find in your average hardware store, and the glue is a more serious kind as well. Better suited to the task.
I typically stick it on the driver, it has been fine thru many installs and removals, while I've had some of the weatherstrip stuff need replacing after a few.
For smaller than 4" drivers, and tweeters, lighter stuff is OK, or I've made gaskets out of 1/16" non-adhesive hobby foam, as well.Comment
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Glad I saw this. I was going to use the caulk. I have the foam for my baffle. Guess I'll have to use something else for the drivers. I'll keep the PE caulk around for those things that need to stay put, whatever that may be.Originally posted by ThomasWComment
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I'm resurrecting this thread to ask a couple of newbiesque questions. First, do the drivers need to be sealed like this for a ported design? Second, does one have to route deeper to accommodate the compressed foam and, if so, how much deeper?Comment
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NoOriginally posted by Paul Ebert
Depends entirely on the thickness and type of foam being used.Second, does one have to route deeper to accommodate the compressed foam and, if so, how much deeper?
IB subwoofer FAQ page
"Complicated equipment and light reflectors and various other items of hardware are enough, to my mind, to prevent the birdie from coming out." ...... Henri Cartier-BressonComment
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which the foam you are going to use, screw it b/t two peices of wood and measure the gap.Originally posted by Paul EbertComment
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That stuff is Mortite - been around for decades. I used it on a pair of ACI's first subs. Twenty years later the driver came out okay. It works fine, but I use the PE dense foam gasket, as it's quicker to apply and works fine.I use rope caulk that I buy at Home Depot or Lowes, I can't remember. It is different than the PE product. It is a white, slightly sticky roll of putty-like material.Comment
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What, no pimpin' 3M products? What's wrong with you, Hank?
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I've used that MarkDoug
"I'm out there Jerry, and I'm loving every minute of it!" - KramerComment
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If I use foam tape I use the softest kind, like this:
which you can find at many hardware stores even if not on their web sites.
This type of tape says "Maximum Compression" and it squishes down to 1/32" or less with very light pressure (thinner than the 1/8" thick PE closed cell tape).
As Brent said above, often you don't need that much gasketing. If your baffle board and rabbeting are planar and smooth, all you really need are gaskets cut from one or two layers of construction paper or thin cardboard (like a cereal box).Comment
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Another vote for the PE foam tape. Tried the PE "caulk" once and immediately chunked it.-ChuckComment
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Another option
I use the fun foam from the craft stores. They come in single 8.5 X 11 sheets that are peel & stick on one side. I've also used it to flush in uncommon speaker frames that are tough to router.Comment
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Well, OK, unless you have some gross unevennesses in there. Any significant leak will make noise and affect the tuning slightly. Of course, we're talking router error level of problems...Originally posted by ThomasW
What I've done is to use my cheap and handy Harbor Freight digital calipers, and squash down the foam between to get a number to add to the router depth. Good way to judge which foams will squeeze down very thin, and which will provide more thickness, for when you want one or the other...
I'll just put in a bid for calipers in general here... if you don't have a pair, get one and you'll wonder how you lived without it before! Measuring driver diameters, flange depths, gasket judgements, etc... Not to mention determining screw drill diameters for the inside and outside of threads, figuring out which unmarked drill bit that is laying on the table, even as a precision marker or scribe to put an exact line on something... (we are talking cheap HF one, not a nice $$ one) It'll be the best $15-25 you've spent on tools.
My only suggestion, spend a few $ more for an 8" one, the 6" one stops at around 6.125" and that leaves you short with a lot of the larger drivers.Comment
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